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The Twelve Days of Christmas: Grinch Inspired Pattern Amigurumi Pattern

The Twelve Days of Christmas: Grinch Inspired Pattern Amigurumi Pattern
4.3★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
3.0K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

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Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This The Twelve Days of Christmas: Grinch Inspired Pattern Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern makes a Grinch-inspired amigurumi about 26" tall using worsted weight yarn and two hook sizes for body and coat. It includes detailed shaping for legs, tummy, neck and head to create the Grinch silhouette. You also get instructions for eyes, tassel hair, fingers, and an optional Santa coat and hat. Photos and tips are included to help with assembly and finishing.

The Twelve Days of Christmas: Grinch Inspired Pattern Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern uses continuous spiral crochet for smooth shaping and invisible decreases for neat finishes. It is written in rounds with stitch counts provided to help you track progress and make adjustments.

Why You'll Love This The Twelve Days of Christmas: Grinch Inspired Pattern Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it captures the Grinch personality with a few clever shaping tricks and expressive eyes. I enjoy the way the tummy shaping and cheek increases create that cheeky face — it feels like sculpting with yarn. The mix of simple rounds and selective increases/decreases keeps the work interesting without being overwhelming. I also love that it includes optional coat and hat instructions so you can dress your Grinch for the holidays. Seeing the finished expression after sewing on the eyes and embroidery always makes me smile.

The Twelve Days of Christmas: Grinch Inspired Pattern Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress The Twelve Days of Christmas: Grinch Inspired Pattern Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress The Twelve Days of Christmas: Grinch Inspired Pattern Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories The Twelve Days of Christmas: Grinch Inspired Pattern Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easily this pattern adapts to different sizes — changing yarn weight and hook will scale your Grinch up or down quickly.

If you want a smaller, keychain-friendly Grinch use fingering weight yarn and a smaller hook; remember to reduce stuffing accordingly so the shape stays neat.

For a chunkier, cuddle-ready version try a bulky yarn and a larger hook; this will make the finished toy much softer and quicker to work up.

I often swap eye styles — use embroidered eyes instead of safety eyes for a kid-friendly version, or try smaller safety eyes for a subtler look.

Try different facial expressions by adjusting eyebrow placement and the mouth curve; a slightly higher eyebrow or deeper mouth line will change the personality instantly.

Add wire to the legs or arms if you want posable limbs; insert it during the leg/arm construction and secure well with stuffing and tight stitching.

Use fuzzy yarn for the hat trim and coat cuffs to create a more festive, textured finish; contrasting colors make the outfit pop.

Make a family of Grinches by varying coat colors and hat styles — try green coats, striped hats, or add tiny crocheted props like gifts or candy canes.

I like to add embroidered details on the coat or a little pocket to hold a tiny ornament; small accessories personalize the piece beautifully.

If you prefer flat features, make the eyes flatter by reducing stuffing in that area before sewing the eye pieces down, and use surface embroidery for details instead of 3D pieces.

You can make the fingers shorter or longer by changing the chain lengths in the finger section; test one hand to check proportion before doing both.

For an aged or rustic look, try dyeing yarn slightly or using heathered yarns and add small stitched patches to the coat for character.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the use of a stitch marker in continuous spiral work leads to lost rounds; place a marker at the first stitch of each round to stay oriented and update it every round. ✗ Not stuffing the neck and head firmly causes the head to flop and lose shape; stuff the neck very firmly and shape the cheeks with extra stuffing for stability and expression. ✗ Ignoring stitch counts during increases and decreases results in uneven shaping; count your stitches after each shaping round to confirm the intended stitch count. ✗ Overstuffing early sections creates lumps and distorts shaping later; stuff gradually and add more where the pattern directs, shaping as you go to avoid lumps. ✗ Not securing long tails when sewing on arms or eyes may lead to loose attachments; weave tails securely from the inside and knot where necessary to keep pieces fastened. ✗ Forgetting to pin parts before sewing leads to asymmetry; pin or baste the arms, eyes and coat pieces in place first to check placement before final sewing.

The Twelve Days of Christmas: Grinch Inspired Pattern Amigurumi Pattern

Make a tall, whimsical Grinch-inspired amigurumi with clear step-by-step instructions. This pattern guides you from the feet to the hat and includes optional Santa coat and hat details. You will shape the tummy, create expressive eyes, and assemble arms and fingers for a playful finished piece. Perfect for holiday decor or a handmade gift with character.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for The Twelve Days of Christmas: Grinch Inspired Pattern Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) main color Limeade or Keylime - at least 1/2 of Caron One-Pound skein (~400 yds) or equivalent (approx 300-400 yds recommended)
  • 02
    Accent yarn: Red Heart Cherry Red - small amount for coat and hat
  • 03
    Accent yarn: Red Heart Hygge in Snow (white) - small amount for coat/hat trim
  • 04
    Small scraps of black or dark green for eye details and mouth embroidery
  • 05
    Optional: I Love This Yarn in Keylime if Limeade is unavailable
  • 06
    Small amounts of white and black yarn for eyes and facial details

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size G/4mm for body
  • 02
    Crochet hook size I/5mm for coat and hat
  • 03
    Safety eyes 20mm (2 pieces) or appropriately sized safety eyes
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 06
    Stitch markers
  • 07
    Polyester stuffing
  • 08
    Optional: 2 foam rollers (small pool noodle style) to stiffen foot bend
  • 09
    Pins for assembly
  • 10
    Steam iron (optional) to relax arm pieces before attaching

Progress Tracker

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— Feet and Legs :

Info :

This pattern starts at the feet and works up the leg. You will make two legs but DO NOT FINISH OFF the second leg. They will get joined and then the body gets added. The only thing that gets sewed on are the arms.

Chain :

Chain 2.

Round 1 :

Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.

Round 2 :

Make 1 sc in each stitch around (6)

Round 3 :

2 sc in the first stitch, one sc in the rest of the stitches (7)

Round 4 :

Make 1 sc in each stitch around (7)

Round 5 :

2 sc in the first stitch, one sc in the rest of the stitches (8)

Round 6 :

Make 1 sc in each stitch around (8)

Round 7 :

2 sc in the first stitch, one sc in the rest of the stitches (9)

Round 8 :

Make 1 sc in each stitch around (9)

Round 9 :

(Make 1 sc in next 2 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (12)

Round 10 :

(Make 1 sc in next 3 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (15)

Round 11 :

(Make 1 sc in next 4 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)

Round 12 :

(Make 1 sc in next 2 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)

Round 13-17 :

5 rounds: Make 1 sc in each stitch around (24) – if working in the spiral that is 120 stitches

Round 18 :

(Make 1 sc in next 2 stitches, make an inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)

Round 19-20 :

2 rounds: Make 1 sc in each stitch around (18) – spiral count is 36 stitches

Info :

Start stuffing and stuff as needed.

Round 21 :

sc in the next 10 stitches, inv dec over the next 8 sc (this is 4 inv dec) (14)

Round 22 :

sc in the next 10 stitches, inv dec over the next 4 sc (this is 2 inv dec) *these two decrease stitches are in the decrease stitches from the row before. (12) *lightly stuff foot

Round 23 :

sc in the next 8 stitches, inv dec 2 over the next 4sc (10)

Round 24 :

inv dec, sc in the next 6, inv dec (8)

Round 25-26 :

Make 1 sc in each stitch around (8) *note: if you are choosing to use foam rollers to help the foot bend up, please check your opening here to make sure your roller will fit.

Round 27 :

(2sc, sc 3)* (10)

Round 28 :

sc in each stitch around (10)

Round 28 :

(2sc, sc 4)* (12)

Round 29-30 :

sc in each stitch around (12)

Info :

*insert your roller here if you are using one as it may be difficult later. I just twisted around and it went in like a bolt.

Round 31-48 :

You are now going to work straight with no increases or decreases for 18 rows. That is 12 stitches around for 18 rows. For spiral crochet that is 216 stitches.

Round 49 :

(sc 3, inc sc) repeat around (15)

Round 50-59 :

You are now going to work straight with no increases or decreases for 10 rows. That is 15 stitches around for 10 rows. For spiral crochet that is 150 stitches. For only the first leg, finish with a slip stitch and cut yarn.

Info :

Stuff top of leg (quad) very well.

Info :

After finishing the second leg, do not fasten off, but figure out the shape of your legs/feet and how you want them to point/turn/stand on your finished piece and hold them together. You are going to be joining them with a chain 2. You want that chain 2 to be in the middle of the inside of the legs.

— Body :

Round 1 :

After joining the legs, you will crochet evenly around each leg and in the chain 2 – both on the front and back of the chain 2- that will give you 34 stitches – 15 on each leg and 4 in the chain 2 space (front and back)

Round 2-3 :

Sc around in each stitch. (34)(34)

Round 4 :

On this round you need to make 2 inc sc evenly. I chose to make one inc sc on each side of the body (36)

Info :

Okay, this is where you need to start shaping the tummy. You will be doing traditional amigurumi counts as far as increases go – 36 to 42, 42 to 48 etc, but you will be making all of the increases on the stomach side. The first step is to lay your work down and find the sides of the stomach.

Round 5 :

For this round you will be increasing from 36 to 42 stitches – that is 6 stitches – all on the front. For example, I had 14 stitches in between my markers -so, I added my increases like this: 2sc, sc, 2sc, sc, 2sc, sc 4, 2sc, sc, 2sc, sc, 2sc (42)

Round 6-7 :

sc in each stitch around (42)

Round 8 :

For this round you will be increasing from 42 to 48 stitches – that is 6 stitches – all on the front. Do the increases evenly like on Row 5.

Round 9-11 :

sc in each stitch around (48)

Round 12 :

For this round you will be increasing from 48 to 54 stitches – that is 6 increase stitches – all on the front like before.

Round 13-15 :

sc in each stitch around (54)

Info :

***now the tummy starts decreasing. You will do inv sc dec evenly on front just like you did the inc sc.

Round 16 :

For this round you will be decreasing from 54 to 48 stitches – that is 6 stitches – all on the front. Inv dec evenly like above.

Round 17-18 :

sc in each stitch around (48)

Round 19 :

For this round you will be decreasing from 48 to 42 stitches – that is 6 stitches – all on the front. Inv dec evenly like above. (42)

Round 20-21 :

sc in each stitch around (42)

Round 22 :

For this round you will be decreasing from 42 to 36 stitches – that is 6 stitches – all on the front. Inv dec evenly like above. (36)

Round 23 :

sc in each stitch around (36)

Round 24 :

(1 sc in next 4 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (30)

Round 25-28 :

sc in each stitch around (30)

Info :

Start stuffing and continue as needed.

Round 29 :

(1 sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (24)

Round 30-31 :

sc in each stitch around (24)

Round 32 :

(1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)

Round 33-34 :

sc in each stitch around (18)

Info :

Stuff, stuff, stuff *stuff GOOD!!! You need this neck to be firm

Round 35 :

(1 sc in next stitch, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12)

Round 36-39 :

sc in each stitch around (12)

Round 40 :

(1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)

Round 41 :

(1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)

Round 42 :

(1 sc in next 3 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)

Round 43 :

sc in each stitch around (30)

Round 44 :

(1 sc in next 4 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36)

Round 45 :

(1 sc in next 5 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (42)

Round 46 :

sc in each stitch around (42)

Round 47 :

*you will be doing 6 more increases on this round, but like above for the belly, you need to place all 6 of the increases on the front of the face. The cheeks specifically. Place 3 inc sc on each side of the face. Each of my marked stitches in the photo gets 2sc in each one. You are going from 42 to 48 stitches.

Round 48 :

sc in each stitch around (48)

Round 49 :

repeat round 47, but space them out more – like: sc, inc sc, sc, inc sc, sc, inc sc. You are going from 48 to 54 stitches.

Round 50-51 :

sc in each stitch around (54)

Round 52 :

Decreases start now, BUT these decreases need to go above the same place over the cheek where the increases are for shaping. So, find your increase stitches and make your decreases straight up from where those are. On R52 you go from 54 back to 48. The 6 inv dec stitches are on the cheeks only.

Round 53 :

sc in each stitch around (48)

Round 54 :

repeat round 52. You are going from 48 to 42 stitches.

Round 55 :

back to traditional decreases evenly spaced around. Go from 42 to 36: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, make an inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (36)

Round 56 :

(1 sc in next 4 stitches, make an inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (30)

Round 57-66 :

sc in each stitch around (30) *stuff the lower head and cheeks and shape. This part really makes a difference to the face so push the stuffing around and shape the face carefully.

Info :

*I choose to do my eyes and face and sew everything on before I sew the head shut so that I can make sure all my ends are tied and secure from the inside. If you also prefer to do this, skip down to the eyes pattern and finish the face and then come back up to here.

Round 67 :

(1 sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (24)

Round 68 :

(1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)

Round 69 :

(1 sc in next stitch, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12)

Round 70 :

sc in each stitch around. FO and leave a tail to sew closed.

— Hair and Tassel :

Info :

*I made a short tassel and threaded the tails from the inside the head to the outside and tied them before sewing. Thread tails and secure to create the tuft on top of the head.

— Eyes :

Info :

Eyes: with white: Chain 2 and make 5 sc in the 2nd chain from the hook. Chain 1 and turn.

Row 1 :

Make 2sc in each stitch across (10) Chain 1 and turn.

Row 2 :

Make (1 sc, 2sc)* across (15) *on the last stitch change to a darker green or black color. Chain 1 and turn.

Row 3 :

In green or black, work down the flat side. Make 6 evenly spaced hdc across the flat side. Chain 1 and turn.

Row 4 :

Sc in the first 5 hdc, 2hdc in the last hdc, 2hdc in the next white stitch on the eye and then slip stitch in next. FO and leave a long tail to sew. This long tail is the outside, upper edge of the eye.

Info :

I added safety eyes in the center of the white before I sewed the eyes down. Use the long tail to sew the eye in place toward the nose and use tails to embroider the nose if desired. Use black yarn to add frown lines and the mouth.

— Arms and Fingers :

Info :

Arms: Leave a long tail because these arms start at the shoulder and work toward the fingers so you will use that long tail to sew the arm to the body.

Chain :

Chain 2.

Round 1 :

Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.

Round 2 :

Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail.

Info :

After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. Now, pull that long tail back out the top of the arm for sewing later.

Round 3 :

(Make 1 sc in next stitch, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)

Round 4-5 :

sc in each stitch around (18)

Round 6 :

(1 sc in next stitch, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12)

Rounds 7-16 :

sc in each stitch around (12) *you can add a bit of stuffing to just the shoulder or not. I did not in my first example, but in my second one I did.

Round 17 :

(sc, sc, inv dec) * (9)

Rounds 18-27 :

sc in each stitch around (9)

Fingers :

Slip stitch in the next stitch, chain 6, sc back up this chain for 5 sc, slip stitch in the next 2 stitches, chain 6, sc back up the chain for 5 sc, slip stitch in the next 2 stitches, chain 7, sc 6 back up the chain, slip stitch in the next 2 stitches, chain 8, sc 7 back up the chain, slip stitch in the next 2 stitches, chain 6, sc back up the chain for 5 sc. FO and use the tail to sew the hand shut.

Info :

It is best to now take the arms to your steam iron and relax them a little with a bit of steam. This will soften and relax the arms and fingers. I also gently pulled on mine to lengthen them a little. Now, sew onto body.

— Coat (New Addition) :

Info :

This coat is super easy to make and also easy to modify to be shorter or longer. I used my size I/5mm hook for the coat and hat.

Length :

For the length of the coat: Chain 51.

Row 1 :

In the 2nd chain from the hook, hdc and hdc in each chain across (50) Chain 1 and turn

Rows 2-5 :

hdc across the chain for each row with a chain 1 and turn at the end of each.

Row 6 :

After row 5 you will chain 1 and turn, but then hdc only 25 hdc. Then, Chain 26 and turn.

Row 7 :

In the 2nd chain from the hook you will hdc and hdc in each chain/stitch back down for (50 hdc)

Rows 8-11 :

Repeat 2-5. Do NOT Finish off.

Info :

Fold the front pieces down and pin in place to make an arm hole. SC about 14 sc around the arm hole – all around – front and back (see photo) – you will continue working in the round in a continuous spiral manner until the length of the coat arm is what you need. Mine was about 17 rounds. Finish with a slip stitch and cut yarn. You can weave in the end or work over it with your white. Do a few rows in white for the cuff.

Info :

Join red yarn on the other side and repeat as above to make the second arm. After you have both arms complete, attach your yarn to the front bottom side and sc evenly up the side, around the next and down the other side. Continue around the bottom and make 3sc in each corner on front.

Collar :

Before doing round 2 in the white for the collar, mark the 10/11 neck stitches on each side. After you have marked the neck/collar stitches, sc in each stitch around for round 2, but make hdc in all the stitches between the markers for the collar. Sc in all the rest of the stitches all the way back around to where you started round 2. Round 3 is a repeat of round 2. You will sc in sc and hdc in hdc. Finish and weave in the end.

— Hat :

Info :

Start in red with your size I/5mm hook. *note: If you want less of a “point” on your hat do one less round for each of the straight rounds. I’ll notate that below.

Chain :

Chain 2. Single crochet 4 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.

Rounds 2-3 :

sc in each stitch around (4) *only do round 2 for less of a point

Round 4 :

(1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (6)

Rounds 5-6 :

sc in each stitch around (6) *only do round 5 for less of a point

Round 7 :

(1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (8)

Rounds 8-9 :

sc in each stitch around (8) *only do round 8 for less of a point

Round 10 :

(1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (12)

Round 11 :

(1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (15)

Round 12 :

(1 sc in next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)

Round 13 :

(1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)

Rounds 14-15 :

sc in each stitch around (24)

Round 16 :

(1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)

Rounds 17+ :

sc in each stitch around for length. (30) I did 8 rounds on my example. You can do more or less depending on the fit you want.

Info :

Attach your white when you are done and sc around in white. After you get this first round in white finished, do another round of HDC in the FLO. This will help the edge of the hat lift up like a cuff. Hdc around again for one or two more rounds for the hat edge and then finish off. Weave in your end and attach your pompom.

Info :

Thank you for purchasing my pattern.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach head to the body after finishing the neck by sewing the head opening closed using the long tail, making sure the head sits centered and the neck stuffing is firm for support.
  • Position and sew the arms to the body at the shoulder level using the long tail left from the arm; pin and check placement before sewing to ensure natural pose and symmetry.
  • Sew the eyes on before closing the head if you prefer; place the white eye bases as pictured and secure safety eyes in the center before stitching the eye pieces down toward the nose area.
  • Pin the coat fronts in place, close the sides and create arm holes by slip stitching through both layers; attach coat to body by slip stitching around bottom and making 3 sc in each front corner.
  • Sew fingers closed and shape the hand by stuffing lightly and using the tail to close; use steam to relax arms and fingers before attaching to the body for best drape.
  • Embroider mouth and frown lines with black yarn after the eyes and nose are secured, using long tails from the eye pieces if desired to help position and stitch details.

Important Notes

  • 💡I crochet in a continuous spiral for this project and do not join rounds; use a stitch marker to mark your first stitch so you do not lose your place.
  • 💡Stuff firmly in the neck and head area to ensure the head holds up; under-stuffing will cause a floppy head and loss of shape.
  • 💡Pin all pieces before sewing to ensure symmetry and correct placement; adjust as needed prior to final stitching.
  • 💡Check the fit of optional foam rollers in the foot opening before closing the foot to ensure the roller will fit and achieve the desired bend.

This Grinch-inspired amigurumi pattern brings holiday mischief to your hooks with fun shaping and expressive details. It includes every round from feet to hat plus optional Santa coat and hat instructions to dress your creation. Whether you make one for yourself or gift it, this tall, characterful Grinch will be a showstopper in your holiday decor. 🧶🎁

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 26 inches tall using worsted weight yarn and the recommended hooks.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can change yarn weight, but final size and stitch counts will be affected; use an appropriate hook for your chosen yarn and expect the piece to scale accordingly.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate; basic knowledge of single crochet, increases, invisible decreases, and working in continuous spiral is recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 8-10 hours, though time will vary depending on experience level and whether you add coat and hat accessories.