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Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern

Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern
4.0★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.1K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🏡

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

About This Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern

This pattern teaches you how to crochet lighted "granny" pumpkins in three sizes: Large, Medium, and Small. You will work short rows of granny clusters and then seam the piece into a pumpkin shape to hold battery-operated fairy lights. The pumpkins use simple stitches like single crochet, double crochet, and granny-style clusters, making them approachable yet decorative.

Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Each size includes full row-by-row instructions and photos for reference, plus notes on yarn amounts and recommended supplies. These little lighted pumpkins make beautiful seasonal decor or handmade gifts.

Why You'll Love This Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it turns familiar granny-cluster stitches into delightful, glowing pumpkins perfect for fall decor. I enjoy how versatile the pieces are — you can make a set of mixed sizes for a centerpiece or several minis for mantle accents. The pattern is satisfying to crochet, with repeating rows that become rhythmic and relaxing. The final step of adding fairy lights brings a warm, magical glow that makes each pumpkin feel special and handcrafted.

Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern step 1 - construction progress Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize these pumpkins — I often swap yarn colors to make a pastel set or a warm, autumnal grouping.

If you want a chunkier pumpkin, use a bulky yarn with a larger hook and you'll get a plush, larger version quickly.

For tiny keychain pumpkins, choose fingering or sport weight yarn and a correspondingly smaller hook to make adorable miniatures.

I sometimes embroider a small face or add a felt tag for personalization before inserting the lights.

Try making leaves in several shades of green and sewing them slightly offset for a more organic look.

Consider using metallic yarn for a subtle sparkle when the lights are on — it adds a special sheen in low light.

If you prefer non-lit decor, stuff the pumpkin firmly and close the seam securely for a solid ornament.

To make a stackable set, stitch a small loop on the bottom of each pumpkin and a matching button on the top so they nest together for storage or display.

I sometimes add a short wire inside the curly vine for posability so the vine holds its spiral shape longer.

Don't be afraid to mix yarn brands — just check the final look and adjust hook size to keep the sizes consistent.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping turning chains as instructions specify can change stitch alignment and cluster placement; always follow 'ch 1, turn' exactly as written to maintain row shaping. ✗ Forgetting to skip designated stitches when instructed will distort granny-cluster sections; count carefully and skip the correct stitches or follow bracketed repeats precisely. ✗ Not pulling the ch-1 spaces tight during decreases can leave gaps in the pumpkin seams; pinch the tail and close gaps, then weave in ends firmly to secure shape. ✗ Using inconsistent tension during granny clusters creates uneven pumpkin segments; maintain steady tension and practice the cluster pattern on scrap before starting the final piece. ✗ Failing to leave a long yarn tail at finish prevents clean assembly; finish off leaving the 14" yarn tail as instructed for sewing and shaping the pumpkin securely.

Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern

Create charming lighted pumpkins using simple granny-cluster techniques and medium worsted weight yarn. This pattern includes three sizes (Large, Medium, Small) so you can mix and match for glowing seasonal decor. Clear instructions and step-by-step photos help guide you as you crochet, assemble, and insert battery fairy lights for a cozy finish.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Medium worsted weight yarn (#4) - general recommendation for body
  • 02
    Large Pumpkin: less than 45g (83 yards) each of Caron One Pound in Cream or Red Heart Super Saver in Gold
  • 03
    Medium Pumpkin: less than 30g (55 yards) each of Caron One Pound in Off White or Pale Green
  • 04
    Small Pumpkin: less than 15g (28 yards) each of Red Heart Super Saver in Gold or Cornmeal
  • 05
    Stems, leaves, and curly vines: odds-and-ends of Red Heart Super Saver in Coffee, Cafe Latte, Warm Brown, Dark Jade or Caron One Pound in Soft Sage

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size US H8/5.00mm
  • 02
    Yarn needle to weave in ends
  • 03
    Scissors to cut yarn
  • 04
    Pinch of polyester stuffing (poly-fill) for stuffing the stem
  • 05
    Clear 6 mil mylar craft plastic (optional, but highly recommended to protect lights)
  • 06
    20-LED battery-operated fairy lights in warm white for each pumpkin (Large can support up to 50-LED; photos show two 20-LED strings used)
  • 07
    CR2032 or appropriate replacement batteries (highly recommended)
  • 08
    Stitch markers (recommended for keeping track of rows)

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— Materials :

Info :

Suggested hook size: H8/5.00mm. All instructions are suitable for any medium worsted weight yarn. For the Large Pumpkins, I used less than 45g (83 yards) for each pumpkin of Caron One Pound in Cream or Red Heart Super Saver in Gold. For the Medium Pumpkins, I used less than 30g (55 yards) for each pumpkin of Caron One Pound in Off White or Pale Green. For the Small Pumpkins, I used less than 15g (28 yards) for each pumpkin of Red Heart Super Saver in Gold or Cornmeal. For stems, leaves, and curly vines, I used odds-and-ends amounts of Red Heart Super Saver in Coffee, Cafe Latte, Warm Brown, Dark Jade, or Caron One Pound in Soft Sage.

— Gauge :

Info :

Gauge is unimportant for this pattern. Although personal thread tension and yarn choice may impact finished size somewhat.

— Terminology :

Infos :

All instructions are in Standard/US terms. ch = chain. sc = single crochet. sc2tog = single crochet 2 together. sl st = slip stitch. sk st = skip stitch. hdc = half double crochet. dc = double crochet. FL = front loop of stitch. BL = back loop of stitch. Magic Circle: a method to begin the first round of a circular pattern; an alternative to ch 2, work # sc in second chain from hook.

— How to Make a Magic Circle :

Info :

Form the yarn into a circle, cross the top thread under the circle and pull through as though creating a slip knot without tightening, insert hook into the loop, while pinching tail and circle firmly together ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), crochet the first row's stitches into the circle over both strands. Pinch tail and pull tightly until circle closes.

— Large Pumpkin :

Info :

Hook size: US H8/5.00mm. Yarn: Caron One Pound in Cream or Red Heart Super Saver in Gold. Turning chains do not count as stitches. Begin by working ch 14.

Round Row 1 :

Row 1: sc in second chain from hook and in next st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st) (Fig. L-1)

Round Row 2 :

Row 2: sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters) (Fig. L-2)

Round Row 3 :

Row 3: sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters) (Fig. L-3)

Round Row 4 :

Row 4: sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters) (Fig. L-4)

Round Row 5 :

Row 5: sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters) (Fig. L-5)

Round Row 6 :

Row 6: — (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist) — sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches) (Fig. L-6)

Round Row 7 :

Row 7: — working in front loops only — sc in first 2 st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st)

Round Row 8 :

Row 8: — working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round Row 9 :

Row 9: sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round Row 10 :

Row 10: sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round Row 11 :

Row 11: sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round Row 12 :

Row 12: — (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist) — sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches) (Fig. L-7)

Round Row 13 :

Row 13: — working in front loops only — sc in first 2 st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st)

Round Row 14 :

Row 14: — working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round Row 15 :

Row 15: sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round Row 16 :

Row 16: sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round Row 17 :

Row 17: sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round Row 18 :

Row 18: — (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist) — sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches)

Round Row 19 :

Row 19: — working in front loops only — sc in first 2 st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st)

Round Row 20 :

Row 20: — working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round Row 21 :

Row 21: sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round Row 22 :

Row 22: sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round Row 23 :

Row 23: sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round Row 24 :

Row 24: — (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist) — sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches)

Round Row 25 :

Row 25: — working in front loops only — sc in first 2 st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st)

Round Row 26 :

Row 26: — working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round Row 27 :

Row 27: sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round Row 28 :

Row 28: sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round Row 29 :

Row 29: sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round Row 30 :

Row 30: — (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist) — sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches)

Round Row 31 :

Row 31: — working in front loops only — sc in first 2 st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st)

Round Row 32 :

Row 32: — working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round Row 33 :

Row 33: sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round Row 34 :

Row 34: sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round Row 35 :

Row 35: sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round Row 36 :

Row 36: — (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist) — sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches)

Info :

Finish off, leaving 14" yarn tail. (Fig. L-8 & L-9) See assembly instructions beginning on page 27.

— Medium Pumpkin :

Info :

Hook size: US H8/5.00mm. Yarn: Caron One Pound in Off White or Pale Green. Turning chains do not count as stitches. Begin by working ch 12.

Round Row 1 :

Row 1: sc in second chain from hook and in next st, 2 sc, sc, 2 sc in next 3 st, sc, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (16 st) (Fig. M-1)

Round Row 2 :

Row 2: sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters) (Fig. M-2)

Round Row 3 :

Row 3: sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 3 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 3 granny clusters) (Fig. M-3)

Round Row 4 :

Row 4: sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters) (Fig. M-4)

Round Row 5 :

Row 5: — (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist) — sc in first 2 st, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog 3 times, sc, sc2tog, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (11 stitches) (Fig. M-5)

Round Row 6 :

Row 6: — working in back loops only — sc in next 2 st, 2 sc, sc, 2 sc in next 3 stitches, sc, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (16 st)

Round Row 7 :

Row 7: — working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round Row 8 :

Row 8: sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 3 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 3 granny clusters)

Round Row 9 :

Row 9: sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round Row 10 :

Row 10: — (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist) — sc in first 2 st, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog 3 times, sc, sc2tog, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (11 stitches) (Fig. M-6)

Info :

Finish off, leaving 14" yarn tail. (Fig. M-7) See assembly instructions beginning on page 27.

— Small Pumpkin :

Info :

Hook size: US H8/5.00mm. Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver in Gold or Cornmeal. Turning chains do not count as stitches. Begin by working ch 8.

Round Row 1 :

Row 1: sc in second chain from hook, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (11 st) (Fig. S-1)

Round Row 2 :

Row 2: sc, ch 1, sk st, [3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters) (Fig. S-2)

Round Row 3 :

Row 3: sc in first st, ch 1, hdc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 2 times, sk 3 st, hdc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc on each end + 2 granny clusters) (Fig. S-3)

Round Row 4 :

Row 4: sc, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and hdc, [3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last hdc and ch-1 space, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters) (Fig. S-4)

Round Row 5 :

Row 5: — (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist) — sc in first st, sc2tog 2 times, sc, sc2tog 2 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (7 stitches) (Fig. S-5)

Round Row 6 :

Row 6: — working in back loops only — sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (11 st)

Round Row 7 :

Row 7: sc, ch 1, sk st, [3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Round Row 8 :

Row 8: sc in first st, ch 1, hdc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 2 times, sk 3 st, hdc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc on each end + 2 granny clusters)

Round Row 9 :

Row 9: sc, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and hdc, [3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last hdc and ch-1 space, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Round Row 10 :

Row 10: — (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist) — sc in first st, sc2tog 2 times, sc, sc2tog 2 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (7 stitches)

Round Row 11 :

Row 11: — working in front loops only — sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (11 st)

Round Row 12 :

Row 12: sc, ch 1, sk st, [3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Round Row 13 :

Row 13: sc in first st, ch 1, hdc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 2 times, sk 3 st, hdc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc on each end + 2 granny clusters)

Round Row 14 :

Row 14: sc, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and hdc, [3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last hdc and ch-1 space, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Round Row 15 :

Row 15: — (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist) — sc in first st, sc2tog 2 times, sc, sc2tog 2 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (7 stitches)

Info :

Finish off, leaving 14" yarn tail. (Fig. S-6 & S-7) See assembly instructions beginning on page 27.

Assembly Instructions

  • Insert battery-operated fairy lights into the pumpkin before closing: place the light string inside, positioning the battery pack where it will be hidden (base or bottom seam). If using mylar plastic, form a small mylar pouch to surround the batteries and protect the yarn from heat, then close the pumpkin seam around it.
  • Use the long 14" yarn tail left at the finish to gather the edges and sew the short-row tube into a pumpkin shape; whipstitch or mattress stitch the opening closed while shaping with your fingers to create rounded lobes.
  • Sew the stem to the top center of the pumpkin using the yarn tail and a yarn needle; stuff the stem lightly with a pinch of poly-fill before closing for firmness.
  • Attach the leaf and curly vine pieces to the base of the stem (or to the side) with small whipstitches and hide ends inside the pumpkin; arrange the leaf so it drapes naturally and the curly vine spirals outward.

Important Notes

  • 💡Turning chains do not count as stitches unless specifically stated; follow the pattern notation carefully for shaping rows.
  • 💡Gauge is unimportant for this pattern, but yarn choice and tension will affect final size; test one size if you need a precise measurement.
  • 💡Work decreases exactly as written: 'for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist' to maintain correct stitch counts.
  • 💡Use clear 6 mil mylar craft plastic to protect lights and batteries if desired; this is optional but recommended for safety and longevity.
  • 💡Leave the 14" yarn tail at finish for seaming and shaping, and weave in ends securely after assembly.

These lighted granny pumpkins are a cozy, handmade addition to any seasonal display. They combine classic granny-cluster stitches with a modern twist—battery fairy lights—for a warm glow. Make a trio of sizes for a lovely centerpiece or scatter small ones along a mantle. 🧶✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

Large Pumpkin: approximately 4-3/4" (12cm) wide by 5" (12.7cm) high including stem. Medium Pumpkin: approximately 4" (10cm) wide by 4" (10cm) high including stem. Small Pumpkin: approximately 3" (7.6cm) wide by 3-1/2" (9cm) high including stem.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will affect the final size. Use an appropriate hook size for your chosen yarn and expect the pumpkin to be larger or smaller depending on yarn and hook.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is intermediate; you should be comfortable with single crochet, double crochet, half double crochet, working granny clusters, and basic increases and decreases.

How do you safely add the fairy lights?

Use battery-operated fairy lights (20-LED recommended). Place the battery pack outside the main yarn body if possible or use clear mylar to protect it. Avoid using mains-powered lights and always follow safety guidelines for batteries.