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Crochet Pumpkin Amigurumi Pattern

Crochet Pumpkin Amigurumi Pattern
3.9★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.7K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Crochet Pumpkin Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern teaches you how to crochet six pumpkins (sizes A–F) with segmented ridges formed by linked double crochet in the back loop. It uses worsted weight cotton yarn and two hook sizes to create a dense fabric so stuffing does not show. The pattern includes full round-by-round instructions, special stitch explanations, and stems sized for small and large pumpkins.

Crochet Pumpkin Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

You will find photo references and clear notes throughout to guide each step and shaping technique. Perfect for seasonal decor, gift making, or practicing linked double crochet and invisible decreases.

Why You'll Love This Crochet Pumpkin Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it turns a simple round crocheting technique into a sculptural, segmented pumpkin with so much character. I enjoy how the linked double crochet creates a dense, textured fabric that hides stuffing beautifully. The pattern is versatile — I can make tiny pumpkins for decorations or larger versions for a dramatic centerpiece. It also challenged me to solve shaping and decrease techniques in a way that is repeatable and satisfying to crochet.

Crochet Pumpkin Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Crochet Pumpkin Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Crochet Pumpkin Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Crochet Pumpkin Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how many ways you can customise these pumpkins — I often change yarn colour to make a pastel Autumn set or go bold with deep oranges and pumpkins in gradient shades.

I sometimes use a bulkier worsted yarn and a larger hook to make oversized pumpkins that are super plush and quick to make, or a finer yarn and smaller hook to create tiny keychain-friendly versions.

I like to swap the cotton yarn for a soft acrylic for a squishier feel, but I make sure to check gauge and adjust stitch counts or rows so the segment proportions stay balanced.

I often embroider little vine tendrils or add a crocheted leaf using a small hook for a charming finishing touch — you can machine-sew or hand-stitch these to the stem.

For an elegant display, I create a set of three pumpkins in graduated sizes and place them on a wooden tray with dried leaves and a candle for a seasonal centrepiece.

I also experiment with adding wire to the stem for a posable piece; I wrap the wire in yarn before stitching to keep it secure and hidden.

If you like a deeper ridge look, try working one extra round of l-dc rows before starting decreases — it makes the pumpkin taller and more segmented.

I sometimes use variegated yarn for a mottled, rustic effect — it adds visual interest without any extra effort.

Want a different shape? Adjust how closely you pull the top and bottom together when finishing — pulling tighter makes the pumpkin shorter and rounder, while a looser finishing gives it a taller silhouette.

I recommend testing one pumpkin first as a sample so you can fine-tune stuffing, tension, and stem placement before making a full set.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the stitch marker for the first stitch of each round leads to confusion and missed increases or decreases; place and move a marker at the start of every round to stay on track. ✗ Using a larger hook than recommended creates a loose fabric that shows stuffing and loses the pumpkin shape; use the specified smaller hook to keep fabric dense and stuffing hidden. ✗ Failing to stuff gradually makes the pumpkin lumpy and hard to shape; stuff in small amounts as you go, shaping the segments evenly before closing. ✗ Neglecting to work decreases in the back loop as instructed will flatten the ridges and alter segment shape; follow the instructions for BL decreases and invisible decrease methods carefully. ✗ Cutting yarn too short when fastening off the stem or body makes sewing difficult; leave a long tail when finishing so you can stitch items neatly into place.

Crochet Pumpkin Amigurumi Pattern

Create a charming set of crocheted pumpkins in several sizes with this clear intermediate pattern. You will learn linked double crochet techniques and invisible decreases to form natural pumpkin segments as you work in the round. The pattern includes six pumpkin sizes (A–F), two stem sizes, step-by-step rounds, special stitch explanations, and photo references to guide you. Perfect for fall decor, gifts, or a cozy handmade display.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Crochet Pumpkin Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) - Lily Sugar & Cream Soft Ecru (small skein for A, B & C)
  • 02
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) - Lily Sugar & Cream Warm Brown (small skein amounts as needed)
  • 03
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) - Lily Sugar & Cream Tangerine (small skein amounts as needed)
  • 04
    Bernat Handicrafter Cotton - Jute (for stems or accents)
  • 05
    Yarn quantities: 1 small skein for sizes A, B & C; 2 small skeins for sizes D & E; 3 small skeins for size F

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook 4mm (G)
  • 02
    Crochet hook 4.5mm (H) - used for most pumpkins
  • 03
    Crochet hook US H / 5mm (noted for yarn specifications)
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Yarn needle / Darning needle for sewing and finishing
  • 06
    Stitch markers
  • 07
    Polyester stuffing
  • 08
    Pins for assembly (optional)
  • 09
    Measuring tape to check gauge

Progress Tracker

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— Tips & Special Stitches :

Infos :

Crochet the pumpkin in continuous rounds, marking the first stitch of each round with a stitch marker to track your progress. A smaller hook size than the recommended hook size is used to create a denser fabric, so that your stuffing doesn't show. The slip stitches are always made in the previous row slip stitches, and is made under both loops. Extra information in the pattern is printed in italics, to provide additional clarity when needed. Photos are placed at the end of this document so that you have the option to print only the written instructions and consult the photos on your tablet or computer. This pattern is written in US terminology.

Info :

Special Stitches explained below are used throughout the pattern: starting linked double crochet (starting l-dc in BL), linked double crochet in Back Loop (l-dc in BL), 2sc-tog, 3sc-tog, 2sc-tog in BL invisible decrease, 3sc-tog in BL invisible decrease, sc in BL, sl st in BL.

Info :

starting linked double crochet in Back Loop (starting l-dc in BL): ch 2, insert H in second ch from H and pull up a loop (photos 7-8), insert H in BL of next st and pull up a loop (3 loops on H, photos 8-9), (YOH and pull through 2 loops) x 2 (photos 10-11).

Info :

linked double crochet in Back Loop (l-dc in BL): insert H behind the horizontal part of the st just made (photo 11-12, the horizontal part is formed by the middle loop of the 3 loops on the H from the previous step) and pull up a loop (photo 13), insert H in BL of indicated st and pull up a loop (photo 14), (YOH and pull through 2 loops) x 2 (photo 15).

Info :

2 single crochet together (2sc-tog): insert H into indicated st and pull up a loop, insert H into next st and pull up a loop (3 loops on H), YOH and pull through all 3 loops.

Info :

2 single crochet together in Back Loop with invisible decrease method (2sc-tog in BL): insert H into BL of first st (photos 24-25), insert H into BL of next st (insert your H in the same way, from front to back, photo 26), YOH and pull through both back loops (2 loops on H, photo 27), YOH and pull through both loops (photo 28).

Info :

3 single crochet together in Back Loop with invisible decrease method (3sc-tog in BL): insert H into BL of st, insert H into BL of next st (insert your H in the same way, from front to back) AND in the BL of the next st, YOH and pull through a 3 back loops (2 loops on H), YOH and pull through both loops (photos 38-41).

Info :

single crochet in Back Loop (sc in BL): Insert your H from the top between the two top loops of the st and let your H come out at the back (you've now inserted your H under the back loop only), complete a normal single crochet.

Info :

slip stitch in Back Loop (sl st in BL): Insert your H from the top between the two top loops of the st and let your H come out at the back (you've now inserted your H under the back loop only), complete a normal slip stitch.

— Small Pumpkin A :

Info :

This pumpkin has the appearance of horizontal stripes and is the smallest of the pumpkins. With 4.5mm H, ch2.

Round 1 :

in second ch from H, make 6 sc, (don't end the round, simply begin next round sts) [6 sts]

Round 2 :

*sl st in next st (photos 1-3), sc in same st* (photo 4), mark first sl st with a SM, rep from * to * another 5 times (photo 5), [12 sts]

Round 3 :

*sl st in next st (from here on, all sl sts will always be in the sl st of the prev round and is made under both loops, photo 6, all other sts in the BL), starting-l-dc in BL of next st (photos 7-11), 2 l-dc in BL of same st* (photos 11-16), rep from * to * another 5 times (photo 17), [24 sts]

Round 4 :

*sl st in next st, starting-l-dc in BL of next st (photos 18-19), l-dc in BL of same st (photo 20), (2 l-dc in BL of next st) x 2 (photo 21)*, rep from * to * another 5 times (photo 22), [42 sts]

Round 5-9 :

(sl st in next st, starting-l-dc in BL of next st, l-dc in BL of each of next 5 sts, photo 23) x 6, [42 sts]

Round 10 :

*sl st in next st, (2sc-tog in BL of next 2 sts (photo 24) with invisible decrease method, photos 24-28) x 3 (photos 29-35)*, rep from * to * another 5 times (photo 36), [24 sts]

Round 11 :

sl st in next st 1 row below (photo 37), sc in BL of each of next 3 sts, [24 sts]

Round 12 :

(sl st, 3sc-tog in BL of next 3 sts with invisible decrease method, photos 38-41) x 6, [12 sts]

Info :

stuff the pumpkin before the next round, make sure to stuff it firmly, photo 42

Round 13 :

sl st in next st 1 row below, sc in BL of next st, [12 sts]

Round 14 :

(2sc-tog over next 2 sts) x 6 (these are normal 2sc-tog under both loops of the sc and sl st), [6 sts], sl st into next st, leave a long tail and cut the yarn, fasten off.

— Small Pumpkin B :

Info :

Pumpkin B has the appearance of bumps and looks a little bigger than Pumpkin A, however, it is the exact same pattern as for Pumpkin A, it is simply turned inside out! Repeat the pattern for Pumpkin A, but before you stuff it, turn it inside out, then complete the instructions as for Pumpkin A.

— Small Pumpkin C :

Info :

This pumpkin is slightly bigger than the smallest pumpkin. It is the same pattern as for Pumpkin A, but with two extra rows after Row 9, making it slightly higher. With 4.5mm H, ch2.

Round 1 :

in second ch from H, make 6 sc, (don't end the round, simply begin next round sts) [6 sts]

Round 2 :

*sl st in next st (photos 1-3), sc in same st* (photo 4), mark first sl st with a SM, rep from * to * another 5 times (photo 5), [12 sts]

Round 3 :

*sl st in next st (from here on, all sl sts will always be in the sl st of the prev round and is made under both loops, photo 6, all other sts in the BL), starting-l-dc in BL of next st (photos 7-11), 2 l-dc in BL of same st* (photos 11-16), rep from * to * another 5 times (photo 17), [24 sts]

Round 4 :

*sl st in next st, starting-l-dc in BL of next st (photos 18-19), l-dc in BL of same st (photo 20), (2 l-dc in BL of next st) x 2 (photo 21)*, rep from * to * another 5 times (photo 22), [42 sts]

Round 5-11 :

(sl st in next st, starting-l-dc in BL of next st, l-dc in BL of each of next 5 sts, photo 23) x 6, [42 sts]

Round 12 :

*sl st in next st, (2sc-tog in BL of next 2 sts (photo 24) with invisible decrease method, photos 24-28) x 3 (photos 29-35)*, rep from * to * another 5 times (photo 36), [24 sts]

Round 13 :

sl st in next st 1 row below (photo 37), sc in BL of each of next 3 sts, [24 sts]

Round 14 :

(sl st, 3sc-tog in BL of next 3 sts with invisible decrease method, photos 38-41) x 6, [12 sts]

Info :

stuff the pumpkin before the next round, make sure to stuff it firmly, photo 42

Round 15 :

sl st in next st 1 row below, sc in BL of next st, [12 sts]

Round 16 :

(2sc-tog over next 2 sts) x 6 (these are normal 2sc-tog under both loops of the sc and sl st), [6 sts], sl st into next st, leave a long tail and cut the yarn, fasten off.

— Large Pumpkin D :

Info :

With 4.5mm H, ch2.

Round 1 :

in second ch from H, make 6 sc, (don't end the round, simply begin next round sts) [6 sts]

Round 2 :

*sl st in next st (photos 1-3), sc in same st* (photo 4), mark first sl st with a SM, rep from * to * another 5 times (photo 5), [12 sts]

Round 3 :

*sl st in next st (from here on, all sl sts will always be in the sl st of the prev round and is made under both loops, photo 6, all other sts in the BL), starting-l-dc in BL of next st (photos 7-11), 2 l-dc in BL of same st* (photos 11-16), rep from * to * another 5 times (photo 17), [24 sts]

Round 4 :

*sl st in next st, starting-l-dc in BL of next st (photos 18-19), l-dc in BL of same st (photo 20), (2 l-dc in BL of next st) x 2 (photo 21)*, rep from * to * another 5 times (photo 22), [42 sts]

Round 5 :

*sl st in next st, starting-l-dc in BL of next st, l-dc in BL of same st, l-dc in BL of each of next 4 sts, 2 l-dc in BL of next st*, rep from * to * another 5 times, [54 sts]

Round 6 :

*sl st in next st, starting-l-dc in BL of next st, l-dc in BL of same st, l-dc in BL of each of next 6 sts, 2 l-dc in BL of next st*, rep from * to * another 5 times, [66 sts]

Round 7-13 :

(sl st in next st, starting-l-dc in BL of next st, l-dc in BL of each of next 9 sts) x 6, [66 sts]

Round 14 :

see photos 24-27 of small pumpkin, *sl st in next st, 2sc-tog in BL of next 2 sts with invisible decrease method, sc in BL of each of next 6 sts, 2sc-tog in BL of next 2 sts with invisible decrease method*, rep from * to * another 5 times, [54 sts]

Round 15 :

sl st in next st 1 row below (photo 37), sc in BL of each of next 8 sts, [54 sts]

Round 16 :

*sl st in next st, 2sc-tog in BL of next 2 sts with invisible decrease method, sc in BL of each of next 4 sts, 2sc-tog in BL of next 2 sts with invisible decrease method*, rep from * to * another 5 times, [42 sts]

Round 17 :

sl st in next st 1 row below, sc in BL of each of next 6 sts, [42 sts]

Round 18 :

*sl st in next st, (2sc-tog in BL of next 2 sts with invisible decrease method) x 3*, rep from * to * another 5 times, [24 sts]

Round 19 :

sl st in next st 1 row below, sc in BL of each of next 3 sts, [24 sts]

Info :

stuff the pumpkin before the next round, make sure to stuff it firmly

Round 20 :

(sl st, 3sc-tog in BL of next 3 sts with invisible decrease method, photos 38-41) x 6, [12 sts]

Round 21 :

(sl st in next st 1 row below, sc in BL of next st) x 6, [12 sts]

Round 22 :

*sl st in next st, 2sc-tog in BL of next 2 sts with invisible decrease method, sc in BL of each of next 4 sts, 2sc-tog in BL of next 2 sts with invisible decrease method*, rep from * to * another 5 times, [42 sts]

Round 23 :

sl st in next st 1 row below, sc in BL of each of next 6 sts, [42 sts]

Round 24 :

*sl st in next st, (2sc-tog in BL of next 2 sts with invisible decrease method) x 3*, rep from * to * another 5 times, [24 sts]

Round 25 :

sl st in next st 1 row below, sc in BL of each of next 3 sts, [24 sts]

Info :

stuff the pumpkin before the next round, make sure to stuff it firmly

Round 26 :

(sl st, 3sc-tog in BL of next 3 sts with invisible decrease method, photos 38-41) x 6, [12 sts]

Round 27 :

(sl st in next st 1 row below, sc in BL of next st) x 6, [12 sts]

Round 28 :

(2sc-tog in next 2 sts) x 6, [6 sts] these are normal 2sc-tog under both loops of the sc and sl st, [6 sts], sl st into next st, leave a long tail and cut the yarn, fasten off.

— Large Pumpkin E :

Info :

Pumpkin E has the appearance of bumps and looks a little bigger than Pumpkin D, however, it is the exact same pattern as for Pumpkin D, it is simply turned inside out. Repeat the pattern for Pumpkin D, but before you stuff it, turn it inside out, then complete the instructions as for Pumpkin D.

— Large Pumpkin F :

Info :

Pumpkin F follows the same pattern as Pumpkin D but includes extra rows to increase its height. When stuffed firmly, the width will also expand, creating the illusion of a larger pumpkin. With 4.5mm H, ch2.

Round 1 :

in second ch from H, make 6 sc, (don't end the round, simply begin next round sts) [6 sts]

Round 2 :

*sl st in next st (photos 1-3), sc in same st* (photo 4), mark first sl st with a SM, rep from * to * another 5 times (photo 5), [12 sts]

Round 3 :

*sl st in next st (from here on, all sl sts will always be in the sl st of the prev round and is made under both loops, photo 6, all other sts in the BL), starting-l-dc in BL of next st (photos 7-11), 2 l-dc in BL of same st* (photos 11-16), rep from * to * another 5 times (photo 17), [24 sts]

Round 4 :

*sl st in next st, starting-l-dc in BL of next st (photos 18-19), l-dc in BL of same st (photo 20), (2 l-dc in BL of next st) x 2 (photo 21)*, rep from * to * another 5 times (photo 22), [42 sts]

Round 5 :

*sl st in next st, starting-l-dc in BL of next st, l-dc in BL of same st, l-dc in BL of each of next 4 sts, 2 l-dc in BL of next st*, rep from * to * another 5 times, [54 sts]

Round 6 :

*sl st in next st, starting-l-dc in BL of next st, l-dc in BL of same st, l-dc in BL of each of next 6 sts, 2 l-dc in BL of next st*, rep from * to * another 5 times, [66 sts]

Round 7-19 :

(sl st in next st, starting-l-dc in BL of next st, l-dc in BL of each of next 9 sts) x 6, [66 sts]

Round 20 :

see photos 24-27 of small pumpkin, *sl st in next st, 2sc-tog in BL of next 2 sts with invisible decrease method, sc in BL of each of next 6 sts, 2sc-tog in BL of next 2 sts with invisible decrease method*, rep from * to * another 5 times, [54 sts]

Round 21 :

sl st in next st 1 row below (photo 37), sc in BL of each of next 8 sts, [54 sts]

Round 22 :

*sl st in next st, 2sc-tog in BL of next 2 sts with invisible decrease method, sc in BL of each of next 4 sts, 2sc-tog in BL of next 2 sts with invisible decrease method*, rep from * to * another 5 times, [42 sts]

Round 23 :

sl st in next st 1 row below, sc in BL of each of next 6 sts, [42 sts]

Round 24 :

*sl st in next st, (2sc-tog in BL of next 2 sts with invisible decrease method) x 3*, rep from * to * another 5 times, [24 sts]

Round 25 :

sl st in next st 1 row below, sc in BL of each of next 3 sts, [24 sts]

Info :

stuff the pumpkin before the next round, make sure to stuff it firmly

Round 26 :

(sl st, 3sc-tog in BL of next 3 sts with invisible decrease method, photos 38-41) x 6, [12 sts]

Round 27 :

(sl st in next st 1 row below, sc in BL of next st) x 6, [12 sts]

Round 28 :

(2sc-tog in next 2 sts) x 6, [6 sts] sl st into next st, leave a long tail and cut the yarn, fasten off.

— Small Stem :

Item Name (P1) :

Use this stem for the smaller pumpkins A, B and C. Round 1: With a 4mm H, ch 10. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from H and in next 5 ch, sl st in last 3 ch [9 sts]. Row 2: ch 1, sl st in BL of next 3 sts, sc in BL of next 6 sts. Row 3: ch 1, sc in BL of next 6 sts, sl st in BL of next 3 sts. Rows 4-7: rep Rows 2-3 another 2 times, fasten off, leaving a long tail.

— Large Stem :

Item Name (P1) :

Use this stem for the larger pumpkins D, E and F. Round 1: With a 4mm H, ch 13. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from H and in next 6 ch, sl st in last 5 ch [12 sts]. Row 2: ch 1, sl st in BL of next 5 sts, sc in BL of next 7 sts. Row 3: ch 1, sc in BL of next 7 sts, sl st in BL of next 5 sts. Rows 4-9: rep Rows 2-3 another 2 times, fasten off, leaving a long tail. Row 10: rep Row 2, fasten off, leaving a long tail.

— Finishing the Pumpkin :

Info :

Preparing the stem: Fold the stem lengthwise so that the top and bottom meet. The slip stitches should touch each other and the single crochets next to each other. Thread the long tail left when finishing off, through a darning needle. Now seam the top and bottom together, but insert your needle through the back loop only of the top row, so that you continue the ridge pattern made by the back loop stitches. Once you have stitched the top and bottom together, insert your needle through the middle of the stem to come out at the slip stitch end and sew the top closed, pulling it tight. Weave in yarn ends.

Info :

Preparing the pumpkin: Thread the long tail left when finishing off, through a darning needle. Insert the needle from the top of the pumpkin through the stuffing to come out at the bottom, inserted the needle from the bottom again to come out at the top and pull the bottom and top closer to each other. Do this a few more times, leaving the yarn and needle at the top to fasten the stem (this will influence the height of your pumpkin, the closer you bring the top and bottom together, the shorter the pumpkin will be).

Info :

Attaching the stem to the pumpkin: I find it easier to attach the stem by inserting the needle all the way to the bottom and back up through the stem, but you can also just do the stitching around the top if you prefer. It also looks neater if you use the same colour yarn as the pumpkin to attach the stem.

Assembly Instructions

  • Preparing the stem by folding lengthwise and seaming through back loops to maintain the ridge pattern, then closing the top and weaving in yarn ends.
  • Use the long tail and a darning needle to thread through the pumpkin from top to bottom and back to bring top and bottom closer, repeating until the desired height is achieved.
  • Attach the stem by inserting the needle through the pumpkin to the bottom and back up through the stem, or stitch around the top edge with matching yarn for a neater finish.
  • For pumpkins B and E (bumpy versions), turn the pumpkin inside out before stuffing and then finish the top/closure as directed to create the bumpy appearance.

Important Notes

  • 💡Work in continuous rounds and mark the first stitch of each round with a stitch marker to track progress and maintain segment alignment.
  • 💡Use a smaller hook (4mm/4.5mm as instructed) to create a dense fabric so stuffing does not show through the linked double crochet texture.
  • 💡Stuff the pumpkin firmly but evenly before performing final decreases; under-stuffing or overstuffing will distort the intended shape.
  • 💡Pin the stem in place before sewing and use a long tail and darning needle to secure the stem neatly through the pumpkin center.

This pumpkin pattern is perfect for autumn displays and makes a lovely handmade gift for fall lovers. The textured ridges and shaped stems are satisfying to crochet and look beautiful grouped together. Make a set of sizes A–F for a complete harvest centerpiece. 🎃🧶

You ask,

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

Finished sizes vary by pumpkin: A approximately 4 cm x 9 cm, B 4.5 cm x 10 cm, C 5.5 cm x 10.5 cm, D 6 cm x 13.5 cm, E 7.5 cm x 15.5 cm, F 11.5 cm x 18.5 cm (approximate depending on yarn and tension).

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will affect the final size and texture; using a thicker yarn and larger hook will create a chunkier pumpkin while lighter yarn will make smaller pumpkins—adjust hook size accordingly.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and uses linked double crochet and invisible decrease methods, so basic knowledge of common stitches and experience working in the round is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters finish a single small pumpkin in a couple of hours; making a full set of multiple sizes typically takes 5-7 hours depending on experience and how many pumpkins you make.