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Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Amigurumi Pattern

Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Amigurumi Pattern
4.5★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.5K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a playful frog-shaped door-stopper using worsted weight yarn and basic crochet techniques. You will work in rounds for the head and body, then crochet simple chains for the neck, arms and legs. The design includes a weighted bead bag option to keep the door-stopper stable and flat.

Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Clear row-by-row instructions guide you through increases and decreases, eye construction and final assembly. Photos and tips in the pattern help with positioning and finishing touches for a neat result.

Why You'll Love This Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it turns simple stitches into a delightful, functional toy you can display and use every day. I enjoy how easy it is to customize the face and colours to match your home or make a quirky gift. Sewing the parts together is rewarding — the neck and mouth add character that always makes me smile. The mix of basic amigurumi techniques with a useful purpose (a door-stopper) is what makes this design special to me.

Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love changing yarn colours to give each frog a unique personality; try a lime green body with a darker green mouth for contrast.

If you want a smaller keychain version, use a lighter weight yarn and a smaller hook to scale the pattern down proportionally.

For an extra-cuddly door-stopper, use a chunky yarn and larger hook to create a plumper, softer frog that sits sturdily against doors.

I often add embroidered freckles or spots on the back for a playful look; use small yarn scraps or embroidery thread for details.

Swap the safety eyes for embroidered eyes for a fully child-safe version that is machine washable and durable for kids.

Try different mouth shapes by adjusting how many stitches you sew closed when joining head halves; a wider mouth gives a surprised expression.

Use metallic thread or a small bell inside the neck for a whimsical jingly frog that delights when moved.

To change poseability, add thin armature wire inside the neck or limbs so you can bend and pose the frog as you like.

Create a family set by varying yarn colours, making one smaller, one larger, and gifting them as a fun coordinated set.

I also enjoy making seasonal versions — orange with leaf accents for autumn or pastel colours for spring displays.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the button or cardboard insertion at the mouth can make the mouth collapse; insert and secure the button or cardboard piece before closing to keep the mouth flat and stable. ✗ Waiting to add the bead bag until the opening is too small makes it hard to insert; place the bead bag before the final decreases so you can position it correctly. ✗ Not stuffing gradually causes lumps or uneven shape; stuff bit by bit during decreases and adjust to keep a smooth silhouette. ✗ Forgetting to stitch through both head halves when joining will cause gaps; sew the top and bottom over the specified 10 stitches to ensure a secure, aligned mouth. ✗ Inserting safety eyes too late or without checking placement can look off-center; insert eyes while counting rounds so they sit symmetrically and attach backs tightly.

Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Amigurumi Pattern

Make a charming frog door-stopper with this step-by-step crochet pattern. You will work simple rounds to create the head, body, arms, legs, neck and fun details like eyes and a tongue. The pattern uses worsted weight yarn and includes clear assembly notes so you can sew the pieces together with confidence.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), green - one skein is plenty for body and head
  • 02
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), black - very little amount for mouth details
  • 03
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), white - small amount for eyes
  • 04
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), red - small amount for tongue
  • 05
    Stuffing (polyester) for head and body
  • 06
    Stuffing beads / bean bag filling for weight (use nylon stocking or mesh bag to contain beads)
  • 07
    2 round buttons size 2 1/4" OR thick cardboard cut to that size to keep mouth flat

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size G (US) (approx 4.0mm)
  • 02
    Safety eyes 10 mm (2 pieces)
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Darning/yarn needle for sewing pieces
  • 05
    Measuring tape
  • 06
    Stitch markers
  • 07
    Nylon stocking or mesh bag for beads (to contain weighting beads)
  • 08
    Polyester stuffing
  • 09
    Pins for assembly (optional)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Top of Head :

Round 1 :

With black yarn, use the magic circle method if you choose OR chain 2 and single crochet 6 in first chain space (6)

Round 2 :

(increase row) sc 2x in each stitch from row one *inc x 6* around (12)

Round 3 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then (once) 1sc in next stitch, *inc then 1sc* around (18)

Round 4 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 2 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc* around (24)

Round 5 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 3 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (30)

Info :

CHANGE TO GREEN YARN

Round 6 :

BACK LOOP for this row only sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 7 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 8 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 9 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 10 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 11 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Info :

insert button here or cutout cardboard piece to keep flat – secure it if you choose, I secured my button by sewing it on with the final knot inside so you can't see it from the outside

Round 12 :

(decrease row) 1sc in next 2 stitches then decrease *1sc, 1sc, dec * x 7 sc in last 2 stitches (23)

Round 13 :

(decrease row) 1sc in next 2 stitches then decrease *1sc, 1sc, dec * x 5 dec and 1sc in last 3 stitches (17)

Round 14 :

sc around each stitch (no dec / inc) (17)

Info :

insert bead bag here for weight before it gets too small of an opening **you will be putting regular stuffing to finish off the "stuffing of the head" after the bean bag. Keep stuffing as we decrease. If your stitching is loose and you see the white stuffing or bean bag, you can also use the same colour green yarn to stuff it. We are not using too much yarn so it's not a big expense to use yarn to stuff the head**

Round 15 :

(decrease row) decrease then 1sc *dec and 1sc * x 5 then one more decrease (11)

Round 16 :

(decrease row) decrease x 5 then sc in last stitch *dec x5 * then 1sc (6)

Round 17 :

cinch last 6 stitches together tightly and finish off

— Bottom of Head :

Round 1 :

With black yarn, use the magic circle method if you choose OR chain 2 and single crochet 6 in first chain space (6)

Round 2 :

(increase row) sc 2x in each stitch from row one *inc x 6* around (12)

Round 3 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then (once) 1sc in next stitch, *inc then 1sc* around (18)

Round 4 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 2 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc* around (24)

Round 5 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 3 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (30)

Info :

CHANGE TO GREEN YARN

Round 6 :

BACK LOOP for this row only sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 7 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 8 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 9 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Info :

insert button / cardboard piece **I recommend using green yarn to stuff the remainder of the bottom of the head**

Round 10 :

(decrease row) *dec, 1sc * x 10 (20)

Round 11 :

(decrease row) *dec, 1sc * x 10 (10)

Round 12 :

cinch the remainder 10 stitches tightly, finish off

— Tongue :

Tongue (P1) :

using RED yarn: Chain 25, turn, 3sc in first chain from hook, sc in next chain, repeat until there is 5 chains remaining. SC in last 5 chains. Finish off

— Eyes :

Round 1 :

using WHITE yarn, make 2 using the magic circle OR chain 2 and sc x5 in first chain space

Round 2 :

(increase row) 2sc in each stitch (10)

Round 3 :

sc around (10)

Round 4 :

sc around (10)

Info :

finish off. INSERT safety eyes in the top of the eyes made. When using the chain 2 method you end up with a tiny "hole" in the top of the eyes perfect for inserting the safety eyes. No they are not too big for the safety eyes to fall out if secured properly

— Body of Frog :

Round 1 :

Using the magic circle method if you choose OR chain 2 and single crochet 6 in first chain space (6)

Round 2 :

(increase row) sc 2x in each stitch from row one *inc x 6* around (12)

Round 3 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then (once) 1sc in next stitch, *inc then 1sc* around (18)

Round 4 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 2 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc* around (24)

Round 5 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 3 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (30)

Round 6 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 4 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (36)

Round 7 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 5 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (42)

Round 8 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 6 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (48)

Round 9 :

sc around (48)

Round 10 :

sc around (48)

Round 11 :

sc around (48)

Round 12 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 6 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (42)

Round 13 :

sc around (42)

Round 14 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 5 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (36)

Round 15 :

sc around (36)

Round 16 :

sc around (36)

Round 17 :

sc around (36)

Round 18 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 4 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (30)

Round 19 :

sc around (30)

Round 20 :

sc around (30)

Info :

** start stuffing body as we'll be decreasing more and more. You can also insert another bean bag here for weight as well. My stitching is on the tighter side so I didn't need to use yarn to stuff the body here. You can – it's ok **

Round 21 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 3 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (24)

Round 22 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 2 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (18)

Round 23 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc *dec, 1sc * 6x (12)

Round 24 :

decrease around x 6 (6)

Round 25 :

cinch around last 6 stitches and finish off

— Arms and Legs :

Arms and Legs (P1) :

make 2 of each – green yarn. Chain 21, turn. sc in chain closest to hook (20). once at the end – do not finish off – chain 6 and slip stitch to the first chain, repeat that 3 more times to end up with 4 "finger / toes". finish off after the 4th slip stitch. Sometimes there will be a small hole where you did you slip stitches, sew up with the yarn tails once you have finished off.

— Neck :

Info :

NECK – green yarn (works out to approx 6" before folding)

Row 1 :

Chain 27, turn

Row 2 :

HDC starting in 2nd chain from hook (25)

Row 3 :

HDC 4 more rows

Info :

Since the neck is constantly on the floor, I have made it this long so that I can fold over to make it thicker – sew up the sides; sewing up the bottom not so important as we will be attaching this to the body.

— Assembly :

FIRST :

Sew the tongue to the back of the bottom of head. Sew it up to the centre of the black circle so it doesn't move that much

SECOND :

you will now be sewing the top and bottom parts of the head together. You will only sew it over 10 stitches as you want to make sure the, now mouth, works. Shown without the tongue attached as I was crazy before I put the head together and didn't sew the tongue in first – that's why I know you should and I've instructed you to do this :)

THIRD :

Attach eyes to top of head

FORTH :

Lets sew the legs onto the frog body. Place them on the bottom of the larger part of the body. As well, lets sew the neck onto the top of the body.

FIFTH :

Sew the arms onto the neck. Place them about a half inch from the top of the neck as we still have to sew the neck and head together

SIXTH :

We're here – lets sew the neck onto the bottom of the head – in the middle

Info :

WE ARE DONE !! Arrange parts and make any final stitching adjustments to secure pieces and weave in ends.

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew the tongue to the back of the bottom head and secure it to the centre of the black mouth circle so it cannot move.
  • Sew the top and bottom head pieces together over 10 stitches to create the mouth opening, leaving the rest unsewn to keep mouth function.
  • Attach the eyes to the top of the head and secure safety eye backs, checking symmetry before tightening.
  • Sew the legs onto the larger bottom portion of the body, positioning them evenly on the underside for balance.
  • Sew the neck onto the top of the body, fold and sew the neck sides to make it thicker before attaching.
  • Sew the arms onto the neck about half an inch from the top, then sew the neck to the bottom of the head centered so the head and body align.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of rounds, especially during increases and decreases.
  • 💡Insert the bead bag for weight before the opening gets too small, then finish with regular stuffing for shape.
  • 💡Stuff gradually while decreasing to keep an even, smooth shape and avoid lumps.
  • 💡Secure safety eyes firmly and consider using green yarn to cover any small holes after inserting filling or bead bag.
  • 💡Sew head halves over the specified number of stitches (10) to ensure the mouth sits and functions correctly.

This crochet frog door-stopper brings handmade charm to any room and doubles as a playful decor piece. Add weighted beads for stability and personalise the colours to suit your home. Whether you make one as a gift or for yourself, it will brighten doorways and spark smiles. 🧶🐸✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished frog door-stopper measures approximately 10-12 inches long from head to tail when using worsted weight yarn and a G hook, depending on stuffing and tension.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will change the final size; adjust your hook accordingly and expect to use different amounts of yarn and stuffing.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of single crochet, increases and decreases, and sewing amigurumi parts together is recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though time may vary based on experience level and pacing.