Make your own cute Tyrannosaurus Oliver with this detailed crochet amigurumi pattern. You will get step-by-step rounds, photos, and finishing tips to create a charming little dinosaur with a retro TV accessory. Perfect for crafters who love small toys and thoughtful finishing details.
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— Head (Yarn A) :
Round 1 :
7 loops, turning, 6sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 6sc (from the back of the chain) (12l)
Round 2 :
[sc, inc]x6 (18l)
Round 5 :
[2sc, inc]x6 (24l)
Round 8 :
3sc, [inc]x18, 3sc (42l)
Round 9 :
18sc, 4dc in the next loop, [dec]x4, 4dc in the next loop, 14sc (44l)
Round 10 :
19sc, [2dc in the next loop]x2, sc, 4 sl st, sc, [2dc in the next loop]x2, 15sc (48l)
Round 11-13 :
24sc, 4 sl st, 20sc (48l)
Round 14 :
18sc, [dec]x3, 4sc, [dec]x3, 14sc (42l)
Round 16 :
[5sc, dec]x6 (36l)
Round 17 :
[4sc, dec]x6 (30l)
Round 18 :
[3sc, dec]x6 (24l)
Info :
Insert safety eyes between the rounds 7 and 8, the distance between them is approximately 10 stitches, don't fix yet (see photo 1).
Info :
Using the yarn needle to do from above of the eye «loose stitch» of black thread floss, separate one thread and fasten with a needle «loose stitch» in the middle of the eye to form an oval (see photos 2-9). Using yarn needle to do from below the eye «loose stitch» of white thread floss, separate one thread and fasten with a needle «loose stitch». Press the eye to the embroidered line and fasten it.
Info :
Divide the black threads floss in half, embroider the nostrils and mouth (see photos 13-21). Embroider 6 teeth (3 pcs on each side) with white threads floss (divide in half) in the form of triangles (see photos 22-24).
Round 21 :
[2sc, dec]x6 (18l)
Round 22 :
[sc, dec]x6 (12l)
Info :
Completely fill the head. Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure. Insert cotter pin into shim and place cotter pin between rounds 14 and 15 of the bottom of the head as shown (see photos 34-36).
Info :
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
— Crest on the head :
Info :
Crochet crest with a hook 1,5 mm and green mouline threads.
Round 1 :
27 loops, turning, sl st (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), [sl st; crochet in one loop- {sl st, dc, sl st}; sl st]x8, sl st
Info :
Cut and fix the thread, leaving a very long end for sewing. Sew the crest to the head, pre-fixing it with needles for cutting, in order to achieve perfect symmetry (see photos 37-39).
— Neck and Body :
Round (Neck) 1 :
Yarn A 1: 2 loops, 8sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (8l)
Round (Neck) 2 :
[inc]x8 (16l)
Info :
Next, you need to crochet the body of yarn A and yarn B at once, alternately change the thread, but not cutting it to get a white breast. This technique is called jacquard. Color changing technique: when crocheting the last green sc, insert the hook into the loop, pull out the thread, crochet this sc to the end with a white thread. Then the green thread is thrown forward, and the white working thread goes backwards. To change the color back: when crocheting the last white sc, insert the hook into the loop, pull out the thread, crochet this sc to the end with the green thread.
Round 3 :
[3sc, inc]x2 (Yarn B); [3sc, inc]x2 (Yarn A) (20l)
Round 4 :
only through back loops 10sc (Yarn B); 10sc (Yarn A) (20l)
Info :
It is more convenient to crochet with the jacquard only the front of the body, and the back should only be crocheted from yarn A. At the end of the row, when crocheting the last green sc, insert the hook into the loop, pull out the thread, and crochet this sc to the end with a white thread grabbing it in the place where it remained. A «loose stitch» is formed on the wrong side. You need to move it forward along with the green thread.
— Tail (Yarn A) :
Round 1 :
2 loops, 4sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (4l)
Round 2 :
[inc]x2, dec (5l)
Round 3 :
sc, [inc]x2, dec (6l)
Round 4 :
sc, [inc]x2, sc, dec (7l)
Round 5 :
sc, [inc]x3, sc, dec (9l)
Round 6 :
2sc, inc, sc, inc, 2sc, dec (10l)
Round 8 :
3sc, [inc]x3, 2sc, dec (12l)
Round 10 :
3sc, [inc]x5, 2sc, dec (16l)
Round 12 :
dec, 4sc, [inc]x4, 4sc, dec (18l)
Round 14 :
dec, 5sc, [inc]x4, 5sc, dec (20l)
Info :
Cut and fix the thread. Stuff the tail with synthepus. Mark with a pin the place where the tail connect to the back - move the pin to the 12 loop from the beginning of the round count clockwise (see photo 69). Connect the body with the tail in the next round.
Info :
To connect the details insert the hook initially into the tail (from the inside to the outside), and then into the body (from the outside to the inside). Continue crocheting the body from the place where you left off.
Round 13 (incomplete round) :
14sc (Yarn B); crochet 26sc along the body, crochet 2sc of the body together with 2sc of the tail, then crochet 26sc along the body (Yarn A)
Round 14 :
15sc (Yarn B); crochet 25sc on the body, crochet 18sc on the tail, crochet 26sc on the body (Yarn A) (84l)
Round 15 :
15sc (Yarn B); 19sc, [dec]x3, 18sc, [dec]x3, 20sc (Yarn A) (78l)
Round 16 :
16sc (Yarn B); 15sc, [dec]x3, 18sc, [dec]x3, 17sc (Yarn A) (72l)
Round 17 :
16sc (Yarn B); 12sc, [dec]x3, 18sc, [dec]x3, 14sc (Yarn A) (66l)
Round 18 :
17sc (Yarn B); 14sc, [sc, dec]x6, 17sc (Yarn A) (60l)
Round 19 :
17sc (Yarn B); 14sc, [dec]x6, 17sc (Yarn A) (54l)
Round 20 :
[7sc, dec]x6 (48l)
Info :
Start stuffing the body with synthepus.
Round 21 :
[6sc, dec]x6 (42l)
Round 22 :
[5sc, dec]x6 (36l)
Round 23 :
[4sc, dec]x6 (30l)
Round 24 :
[3sc, dec]x6 (24l)
Round 25 :
[2sc, dec]x6 (18l)
Round 26 :
[sc, dec]x6 (12l)
Info :
Completely fill the body.
Info :
Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure. Tip: Cut out a circle of white felt a little larger than the resulting hole and insert it before closing to prevent synthepus from sticking to the hook during closing.
— Legs, 2 pcs (Yarn A) :
Round 1 :
9 loops, turning, 8 sl st (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 8 sl st (from the back of the chain) (16l)
Round 2 :
[7sc, inc]x2 (18l)
Round 7 :
3sc, dec, 8sc, dec, 3sc (16l)
Round 8 :
3sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 3sc (14l)
Round 9 :
2sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 2sc (12l)
Info :
Start stuffing the leg with synthepus.
Round 12 :
sc, [dec]x2, 2sc, [dec]x2, sc (8l)
Round 13 :
sc, dec, 2sc, dec, sc (6l)
Info :
Completely fill the leg, don't stuff further.
Round 14 :
6sc only through back loops (6l)
Round 15 :
4sc, [inc]x2 (8l)
Round 16 :
4sc, [inc]x4 (12l)
Round 18 :
7sc, [inc]x4, sc (16l)
Round 20 :
1 loop, turning, 8 sl st (8l)
— Hands, 2 pcs (Yarn A) :
Round 1 :
2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)
Round 2 :
[inc, sc]x3 (9l)
Round 4 :
[inc]x3, [dec]x3 (9l)
Round 6 :
[dec]x3, [inc]x3 (9l)
Info :
Stuff the hand with synthepus.
Round 7 :
[sc, dec]x3 (6l)
Info :
Change the thread to Yarn B, cut the Yarn A thread. Remove the pin that marking the beginning of the round. Fold the resulting 6 loops in half and in the next round, crochet both halves together.
Round 8 :
1 loop, turning, 3 sl st (3l)
Round 9 :
1 loop, turning, crochet in 1 loop - {sc, 2 loops, sl st}; sl st; crochet in 1 loop - {sc, 2 loops, sl st}
— How crochet bobble stitch (bobble) :
Info :
2 "uncrocheted" dc collected by one loop into a common vertex: yo, insert the hook into the loop, take the thread - 3 loops on the hook. Crochet the first two loops (we got an "uncrocheted" dc), the third loop remains on the hook. Repeat "uncrocheted" dc in the next loop. On the hook 3 loops, crochet all the loops in one step. Crochet 3 loops, sl st in the same loop.
Round 21 :
1 loop, turning, [bobble*, sl st]x2, bobble
— Crest on the body :
Info :
Crochet crest with a hook 1,5 mm and green mouline threads.
Round 1 :
45 loops, turning, sl st (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), [sl st; crochet in one loop- {sl st, dc, sl st}; sl st]x14, sl st
Info :
Cut and fix the thread, leaving a very long end for sewing. Sew the crest to the body, pre-fixing it with needles for cutting, in order to achieve perfect symmetry (see photos 100-102).
— Spots :
Small, 8 pcs Round 1 :
3 loops, turning, 2sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 2sc (from the back of the chain) sl st in 1st sc (4l)
Middle, 6 pcs Round 1 :
4 loops, turning, 3sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 3sc (from the back of the chain) sl st in 1st sc (6l)
Big, 4 pcs Round 1 :
5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 4sc (from the back of the chain) sl st in 1st sc (8l)
Info :
Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Sew on the spots on the hands, legs, back and tail.
— Assemblage :
Step 1 :
Sew your crocheted hands and legs to the body with a threaded bracing (use round-nosed pliers to make it easier to pull the needle). Attach the hands between 9 and 10 rounds of body, distance between hands approx 16 stitches, legs between 17 and 18 rounds of body, distance between legs approx 26 stitches. Check that the dinosaur stands steadily.
Step 2 :
Insert the needle through the back into the hand attachment point (leaving the loose end of the thread outside). Thread the needle through two loops on the inner surface of the hand (the needle for cutting must be in the middle).
Step 3 :
Insert the needle into the body at the hand attachment point and pull out it at the point of attachment of the second hand. Pass the needle through the second hand in the same way. Sew the body and the hands two more times in the same way for strength.
Step 4 :
Insert the needle at the hand attachment point and pull out it at the point of attachment of the opposite leg. Thread the needle through the leg and insert into the body at the leg attachment point and pull out it at the point of attachment of the second leg. Pass the needle through the second leg and sew the body and the legs two more times for strength. Tie a few knots and hide the thread.
This adorable Tyrannosaurus Oliver amigurumi pattern brings a tiny prehistoric friend to life with charming details and a bonus retro TV accessory. Make it for yourself or as a thoughtful handmade gift that will delight dinosaur lovers and crafters alike. Happy crocheting and have fun personalizing Oliver! 🧶🧸
