What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 20 inches tall when using medium weight (#4) yarn and a 3.75 mm hook as recommended in the pattern.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but be aware the final size will change; use an appropriate hook size and expect adjustments to stuffing and eye placement.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of single crochet, increases, decreases, and working in rounds is recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crafters complete this project in 12-15 hours total, spread over multiple sessions depending on experience and how many embellishments you add.

Summer Horse Amigurumi Pattern

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this pattern by changing yarn colors; try pastel shades for a softer look or bright colors for a playful pony.

You can make the horse smaller or larger by changing your yarn weight and hook size — use a sport weight yarn and a smaller hook for a mini version or bulky yarn with a larger hook for a large cuddly toy.

I often add embroidered details such as nostrils or eyebrows to change the expression of the horse, which gives each finished piece more personality.

To make the mane more whimsical, use a variegated yarn or add strands of ribbon mixed with yarn for a textured, sparkly look.

If you want posable legs, consider inserting a thin wire armature inside the legs before stuffing so you can pose the horse's legs slightly differently.

Switch the safety eyes for embroidered eyes for a fully washable, child-safe toy or use smaller eye sizes to change the expression.

Try adding a tiny crocheted saddle or blanket by making a small rectangle and stitching it to the back for an accessory that personalizes the toy.

I also like to vary the flower quantities and colors — fewer or more roses change the style from simple to ornate very quickly.

For a rustic look, use natural-colored, slightly textured yarn and omit bright accents; for fantasy, add sequins or metallic threads to the mane sections.

Finally, experiment with different stuffing levels: slightly softer stuffing yields a floppy, huggable toy while firmer stuffing creates a more sculpted, display-friendly piece.

Summer Horse Amigurumi Pattern

Make a charming Summer Horse amigurumi with detailed step-by-step instructions and helpful photos. This intermediate-level pattern guides you through head, body, legs, mane, tail, and floral embellishments so you can create a sweet handcrafted toy. Perfect for gifting or keeping, the finished horse stands about 20" tall when made with medium weight yarn. Follow the clear rounds and assembly notes to achieve a polished, professional-looking result.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Summer Horse Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

01
Medium Weight (4) yarn (main body color) - approximately 10 oz
02
Medium Weight (4) yarn (mane/tail color) - approximately 7 oz
03
Ivory or White yarn for nose strip and sock markings - small amount
04
Hoof color yarn - small amount for hooves
05
3 accent colors for the roses - small amounts of each color
06
Leaf color yarn - small amount for leaves

— Tools Required

01
3.75 mm crochet hook
02
Tapestry needle for sewing and weaving ends
03
Stitch marker to mark beginning of rounds
04
Scissors
05
Poly pellet beads (or substitute rice) for hoof weight
06
Nylon stocking or small fabric to hold beads
07
PolyFiber filling for stuffing
08
Hot glue gun (optional) for attaching eyes and some small pieces
09
24 mm safety eyes (2 pieces) or preferred eye option

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Round 1 :

MR, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

inc x 6 (12)

Round 3 :

(sc 2, 3 sc in next) x 4 (20)

Round 4 :

sc 3, 3 sc in next, (sc 4, 3 sc in next) x 3, sc (28)

Round 5 :

sc 4, 3 sc in next, (sc 6, 3 sc in next) x 3, sc 2 (36)

Round 6-10 :

sc around, 5 rnds (36)

Round 11 :

sc 24, (inc, sc 2) x 4 (40)

Round 12 :

sc around (40)

Round 13 :

sc 25, (inc, sc 2) x 4, sc 3 (44)

Round 14 :

sc around (44)

Round 15 :

sc 6, (inc, sc) x 5, inc, sc 12, inc x 3, sc 2, inc x 4, sc 6 (57)

Round 16-21 :

sc around, 6rnds (57)

Round 22 :

sc 40, (inc, sc 4) x 3, sc 2 (60)

Round 23-25 :

sc around, 3 rnds (60)

Round 26 :

(sc 3, dec) x 8, sc 15, dec, sc 3 (51)

Round 27 :

sc 30, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 9, dec (48)

Round 28 :

(sc 6, dec) x 6 (42)

Round 29 :

(sc 5, dec) x 6 (36)

Round 30 :

(sc 4, dec) x 6 (30)

Round 31 :

(sc 3, dec) x 6 (24)

Info :

Start Stuffing. I used hot glue to attach the eyes after I closed the head, if you'd rather use the safety backs for the eyes, you can follow the instructions for the eyes now.*see below

Round 32 :

(sc 2, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 33 :

(sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 34 :

dec x 6 (6)

Info :

Finish Off.

Info :

Eye Instructions: To make the divots for the eyes to sit in - Take a piece of yarn (I used crochet thread so you can see it better) and thread it through the head between rnds 17 & 18 and approx 25 sts apart. Thread the yarn back through the head so that you 'grab a stitch'. Make sure the tail comes out in a way so that you will be able to tie a knot around a stitch on the other side and pull on the yarn until you form the divots on both sides. Knot the ends a couple more times & hide the ends inside the head. I used hot glue to secure the eyes in the divots.

— Ears :

Round 1 :

MR, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

(sc 2, inc) x 2 (8)

Round 3 :

(sc 3, inc) x 2 (10)

Round 4 :

sc around (10)

Round 5 :

(inc x 2, sc 3) x 2 (14)

Round 6 :

sc, inc x 2, sc 5, inc x 2, sc 4 (18)

Round 7 :

sc 2, inc x 2, sc 7, inc x 2, sc 5 (22)

Round 8-10 :

sc around, 3 rnds (22)

Round 11 :

sc 2, dec x 2, sc 7, dec x 2, sc 5 (18)

Round 12 :

sc, dec x 2, sc 5, dec x 2, sc 4 (14)

Info :

Sc 2 more times to get to the edge of the ear and ch 1, hold the bottom edges together, make 7 sc through both sides to close the opening. Finish off, leaving a long tail. Pinch the bottom of the ear together and make a few sts to secure. Sew the ears to the head at approx. rnds 25-27. *See photo on page 4 for reference.

— Nose Strip :

Info :

With Ivory~ Ch 9, starting in second ch from the hook-

Round 1-2 :

sc across, ch 1 & turn (8)

Round 3 :

sc across (8)

Info :

Finish Off, leaving a long tail. Sew the strip to the middle of the horse's nose.

— Neck :

Info :

Start with a long beginning tail, you will use this to sew the head to the neck. Ch 36, slst into the first ch to join, ch 1

Round 1-2 :

sc around, 2 rnds (36)

Round 3 :

sc 10, (inc, sc 2) x 6, sc 8 (42)

Round 4-5 :

sc around, 2 rnds (42)

Round 6 :

sc 18, (inc, sc 2) x 3, sc 15 (45)

Round 7 :

sc around (45)

Round 8 :

sc 17, inc, sc 3, (inc, sc 2) x 2, (inc, sc 3) x 2, sc 10 (50)

Round 9-12 :

sc around, 4 rnds (50)

Round 13 :

(sc 2, inc) x 4, sc 12, (inc, sc 2) x 4, sc 10, inc, sc 2, inc (60)

Round 14 :

sc around (60)

Round 15 :

sc 25, (dec, sc 2) x 5, sc 15 (55)

Info :

Finish Off, leaving a long tail.

— Body :

Round 1 :

MR, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

inc x 6 (12)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(sc 2, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(sc 3, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(sc 4, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(sc 5, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(sc 6, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9 :

(sc 7, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10 :

(sc 8, inc) x 6 (60)

Round 11-38 :

sc around, 28 rnds (60)

Round 39 :

(sc 8, dec) x 6 (54)

Round 40 :

(sc 7, dec) x 6 (48)

Round 41 :

(sc 6, dec) x 6 (42)

Round 42 :

(sc 5, dec) x 6 (36)

Round 43 :

(sc 4, dec) x 6 (30)

Round 44 :

(sc 3, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 45 :

(sc 2, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 46 :

(sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 47 :

dec x 6 (6)

Info :

Finish Off.

Info :

Assembly: Place the front of the neck at approx. rnd 4 of the body, the back of the neck will reach to approx. rnd 23. Stuff the neck firmly, then sew the head to the top of the neck. I sewed the head at an angle so it looks like the horse is looking off to the side but you can sew it straight on, or however you like. Add additional stuffing before closing up the last few stitches to make sure the neck is nice and firm and can support the head.

— Legs :

Info :

The bottom portion of all the legs will be made the same, however, each leg will have different instructions towards the top. Each leg will have a partial 'flap' at the top which will be sewn up onto the sides of the body, while the rest of the leg is sewn to the bottom of the horse. This helps with placement and the look of the legs.

— Right Front Leg :

Round 1 :

MR, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

inc x 6 (12)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(sc 2, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(sc 3, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(sc 4, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

BLO, sc 10, (inc, sc 2) x 6, sc 8 (42)

Round 8-9 :

sc around, 2 rnds (42)

Round 10 :

sc 10, (dec, sc 2) x 6, sc 8 (36)

Round 11 :

sc around (36)

Info :

Change to Ivory

Round 12 :

sc 11, (dec, sc 2) x 4, sc 9 (32)

Round 13-14 :

sc around, 2 rnds (32)

Round 15 :

sc 12, (dec, sc 2) x 3, sc 8 (29)

Round 16 :

sc around (29)

Info :

Insert nylon with poly-pellets *see page 3

Round 17 :

sc 10, (dec, sc 2) x 3, sc 7 (26)

Round 18 :

sc around (26)

Round 19 :

sc 11, dec x4, sc 7 (22)

Round 20 :

sc around (22)

Info :

Change to Body Color

Round 21-24 :

sc around, 4 rnds (22)

Round 25 :

sc, inc x 2, sc 10, inc x 3, sc 6 (27)

Round 26-30 :

sc around, 5 rnds (27)

Round 31 :

sc 4, inc x 2, sc 11, inc x 3, sc 7 (32)

Round 32-37 :

sc around, 6 rnds (32)

Info :

Here is where we will begin working back & forth to create the flap.

Round 38 :

sc 5, ch 1 & turn, hdc in same st as ch & in the next 16 (17) ch 1 & turn

Round 39 :

hdc 17, ch 1 & turn (17)

Round 40 :

hdc 3, dc 11, hdc 3 (17)

Info :

Finish Off , leaving a long tail. Make sure the leg is stuffed firmly so it can support the body.

— Left Front Leg :

Info :

Follow the same instructions as the right front leg through rnd 37

Round 38 :

sc 10, hdc 17, ch 1 & turn

Round 39 :

hdc in same as ch & in the next 16, ch 1, turn (17)

Round 40 :

hdc 3, dc 11, hdc 3 (17)

Info :

Finish Off, leaving a long tail. Stuff firmly.

— Right Rear Leg :

Info :

Follow the same instructions as right front leg through rnd 33

Round 34 :

sc 6, inc x 2, sc 15, inc x 3, sc 6 (37)

Round 35 :

sc around (37)

Round 36 :

sc 8, inc x 3, sc 26 (40)

Round 37 :

sc around (40)

Round 38 :

sc 20, ch 1 & turn, hdc in same as ch & in next 24, ch 1, turn

Round 39 :

hdc 25 (25) ch 2 & turn

Round 40 :

dc in same as ch & in the next 17, hdc 7 (25) ch 1 & turn

Round 41 :

sc 7, hdc 18 (25) ch 1 & turn

Round 42 :

sc 6, hdc 12, sc 7 (25)

Info :

Finish Off, leaving a long tail. Stuff Firmly.

— Left Rear Leg :

Info :

Follow the same instructions as the Right REAR Leg through rnd 37

Round 38 :

sc 32, ch 1 & turn, hdc in same as ch & in next 24 (25) ch 1 & turn

Round 39 :

hdc 25 (25) ch 1 & turn

Round 40 :

hdc 7, dc 18 (25) ch 1 & turn

Round 41 :

hdc 18, sc 7 (25) ch 1 & turn

Round 42 :

sc 7, hdc 12, sc 6 (25)

Info :

Finish Off, leaving a long tail. Stuff Firmly.

Info :

Assembly: Sew the legs to the body, add stuffing before closing up the last few stitches to insure the bottom of the legs are firm. Add some lighter stuffing to fill in the flap area, making sure the stuffing doesn’t pull gaps in the hdc/dc stitches.

— Mane & Tail :

Info :

The mane and tail are made up of 2 strips that are joined together at the top, forming what we will refer to as a 'Section'. Each strip begins with a starting ch. You will start by working in the 2nd chain from the hook and sc into the back bumps of the starting ch. You will work a total of 3 rows of sc, then, without finishing off, begin a new starting ch for the second strip. After working 3 rows of sc on the second strip, you ch 1, fold the strips together and sc across the top to join, forming a Section.

Info :

I will write out the instructions for the first Section, then you will repeat the same technique for each section, changing only the length of the chains.

Info :

You will have a total of 3 separate sections and 1 individual strip for the part of the mane that goes between the ears~ *see photo on next page for placement.

— Front mane - Section 1 :

Info :

With Mane/Tail Color~ Ch 42, starting in 2nd ch from the hook & working in back bump-

Round 1-2 :

sc across, Ch 1 & turn (41)

Round 3 :

sc across

Info :

Ch 36

Round 1-2 :

sc across, ch 1 & turn (35)

Round 3 :

sc across

Info :

Ch 1 and fold the 2 strips together, sc across to join. Finish Off, leaving a long tail. This section will go next to the inside of the left ear.

Info :

Front mane - Section 2: Strip 1: ch 21; Strip 2: ch 31. This goes next to Section 1, in the middle.

Info :

Front mane - Section 3: Strip 1: ch 42; Strip 2: ch 26. This section is sewn directly behind Section 2 and lays over the top of Section 2.

Info :

Now, we will make a single strip that is 31 ch long. This piece goes next to the right ear and is angled so it lays across the other sections. *see picture on page 10 for a different angle.

Section :

Side mane - Next, we will make the part of the mane that goes down the back of the horse's head and neck. For this piece I made 5 continuous sections. I made 2 strips and joined them together but instead of finishing off, I made the next starting ch, making my next 2 strips and joined those 2 strips together and so on. You will have 5 sections total that are all connected. Then I just single crocheted across the top of all five sections for a cleaner look and to make the piece easier to attach. Every strip will start with a ch of 58.

Info :

For the tail we will make 2 continuous sections (total of 4 strips). After single crocheting across the top of the 2nd section, ch 1, fold one section over the top of the other and sc across the top to join. (you'll have 4 strips stacked one on top of the other).

Info :

Tail - Section 1: Strip 1: Ch 55; Strip 2: ch 61

Info :

Tail - Section 2: Strip 1: ch 57; Strip 2: ch 64

Info :

Fold the 2 sections together and sc across the top (there will be 4 strips layered). Finish off, leaving a long tail. Repeat these instructions 2 more times so that you have a total of 3 pieces with 2 sections each. Sew the first piece to approx. rnd 38 of the horse's body. Sew the next 2 pieces directly above the first.

— Flowers & Leaves :

Info :

I made 3 roses in each color and 3 rosebuds in each color. I also made 7 leaves. You can make as many flowers and leaves as you wish, adding some to the tail as well if you like.

Rose :

Ch 27, 3hdc in 2nd ch from the hook, slst, (3hdc in next st, slst) x 12. Finish off, leaving a long tail. Roll the petals into a rose shape and secure with a few stitches through the bottom.

Rosebud :

ch 18, dc in 3rd ch from the hook & in the next 15. Finish off, leaving a long tail. Roll up and secure with a few stitches through the bottom.

Leaf :

Leave a long starting tail for sewing the leaves to the roses: Ch 8, starting in 2nd ch from the hook, slst, sc, hdc, dc 3, 5 dc in next st, (Now begin working down the opposite side of the ch) dc 3, hdc, sc, slst, ch 2, slst into the first slst on side 1. Finish Off.

Info :

Reference photos on the next page for placement of the flowers.

Assembly Instructions

Attach head to neck: Place the front of the neck at approx. rnd 4 of the body and the back of the neck to approx. rnd 23, stuff the neck firmly and sew the head to the top of the neck using a whipstitch or mattress stitch for a neat seam.
Sew ears to the head at approximately rnds 25-27, pin and position them evenly before stitching to ensure symmetry and correct placement.
Sew each leg to the bottom of the body, positioning the flap section to the side panels of the body for a natural look; add stuffing before closing the last few stitches so the leg bottoms are firm.
Attach mane and tail sections by sewing the joined strips to the head and back of the neck and body respectively; overlap sections as shown in photos for a full mane and secure with small tight stitches.
Add roses and leaves by sewing the rolled rose pieces and leaves into place; use long tails to attach securely or hot glue for small embellishments if preferred.

Important Notes

💡Use stitch markers to keep track of your rounds, especially when working in continuous rounds and during shaping increases and decreases.
💡To use poly pellet beads, fill a small piece of nylon stocking, tie it off, trim excess, and insert into the hoof area before stuffing to keep the horse balanced and upright.
💡When making the mane and tail strips, crochet into the back bump of the starting chain to create a clean edge for joining.
💡Hot glue can be used in place of sewing for attaching small details such as the nose strip or flower embellishments, but leave long tails if you prefer to sew.
💡Stuff firmly but not overly tight so seams close neatly and shapes remain natural; add extra stuffing to neck and leg flaps to ensure stability.

This Summer Horse amigurumi brings a little meadow magic to your handmade collection with flowing mane and tiny rose accents. Create a treasured keepsake for a child or a decorative companion for your shelf. The pattern includes detailed shaping and helpful assembly tips to make finishing a breeze. 🧶🌸

Summer Horse Amigurumi Pattern

Intermediate Level

Multi-Day Project

Cute Companion

About This Summer Horse Amigurumi Pattern

Why You'll Love This Summer Horse Amigurumi Pattern

Switch Things Up

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

Summer Horse Amigurumi Pattern

Materials Needed for Summer Horse Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

— Tools Required

Progress Tracker

— Head :

Round 1 :

Round 2 :

Round 3 :

Round 4 :

Round 5 :

Round 6-10 :

Round 11 :

Round 12 :

Round 13 :

Round 14 :

Round 15 :

Round 16-21 :

Round 22 :

Round 23-25 :

Round 26 :

Round 27 :

Round 28 :

Round 29 :

Round 30 :

Round 31 :

Info :

Round 32 :

Round 33 :

Round 34 :

Info :

Info :

— Ears :

Round 1 :

Round 2 :

Round 3 :

Round 4 :

Round 5 :

Round 6 :

Round 7 :

Round 8-10 :

Round 11 :

Round 12 :

Info :

— Nose Strip :

Info :

Round 1-2 :

Round 3 :

Info :

— Neck :

Info :

Round 1-2 :

Round 3 :

Round 4-5 :

Round 6 :

Round 7 :

Round 8 :

Round 9-12 :

Round 13 :

Round 14 :

Round 15 :

Info :

— Body :

Round 1 :

Round 2 :

Round 3 :

Round 4 :

Round 5 :

Round 6 :

Round 7 :

Round 8 :

Round 9 :