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Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern

Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern
4.2β˜… Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
1.5K Made This
βœ‚οΈ

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journeyβ€”perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a functional amigurumi phone stand in the shape of a horse or a unicorn, complete with removable tail parts, mane pieces and optional pockets. It uses DK yarn (or two strands of sport yarn) and a 3.0 mm hook to produce a firm structure able to hold a phone upright. The pattern includes step-by-step rounds, clear assembly instructions and photo references for guidance.

Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Make two little hooves and feet, sew the arms and feet to the body and attach colorful mane and tail pieces for a finished look. Works well as a gift or a decorative desk accessory.

Why You'll Love This Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines functionality and cuteness in one small project. I enjoy designing little details like the mane and tail parts that let you customize the character. The assembly steps make the final piece sturdy enough to hold a phone and the optional pockets are a fun extra. It's satisfying to see all small parts come together into a friendly companion you can use every day.

Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this pattern to make many different characters β€” you can swap body colors, make multicolored hooves, or use variegated yarn for a playful look.

I often change yarn weight and hook size to make a mini keychain version or a larger chunky version; using bulky yarn with a larger hook creates a chunky, decorative stand while sport yarn makes a smaller version.

I add embroidered facial features or tiny felt accessories to give each piece personality; experiment with different eye styles, mouth shapes or tiny crocheted props.

I sometimes add wire to the arms for light posability or create removable outfits like a little cape or scarf to change the look for seasons or gifts.

If you want the stand to be heavier, add a little more heavy filling (pea gravel in a freezer bag) near the front so phones stay secure; you can also use coins sealed in a small bag for more weight.

I recommend trying contrast-color hooves or a rainbow mane on the unicorn for a bold statement β€” it’s an easy way to make each stand unique.

I like to experiment with stitch texture by using back loop only rounds for subtle ridges or surface crochet lines for decorative seams.

If you plan to make multiples, set up an assembly line: crochet all identical parts together, then stuff and attach; it speeds things up and keeps shapes consistent.

Want a keychain version? Reduce the yarn weight and make smaller parts, then attach a keyring to the top of the head or a tail-part for a portable mini-treasure.

Don’t be afraid to improvise: try felt ears instead of crocheted ones or add beads and ribbons for special occasions β€” the pattern is forgiving and fun to adapt.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers during increasing rounds can shift your stitch placement; place markers at increases to keep the shape even and count stitches regularly. βœ— Understuffing the hooves or body makes the phone stand unstable; stuff the hooves moderately and add a small bag of heavy filling for stability before finishing the body. βœ— Changing yarn weight without adjusting hook size will alter the final size; always swatch and adjust the hook or yarn to keep the phone fits as expected. βœ— Ignoring the instructions to flatten openings before closing will cause gaps; flatten the opening and crochet the specified stitch-pairs to close it neatly and securely.

Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern

Make a charming horse or unicorn phone stand that doubles as a cute desk companion. This pattern walks you through crocheting the body, legs, tail parts, mane pieces and all assembly steps so your creation is sturdy and functional. Use DK or two strands of sport yarn with a 3.0 mm hook for a firm fabric that holds a phone. Perfect as a handmade gift or colorful craft for your workspace.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    DK weight yarn (e.g. Puppets Lyric 8/8) - main body color approx. 80 g
  • 02
    Color details horse: 5003 (brown), 5013 (dark brown), 5001 (black)
  • 03
    Color details unicorn: 5000 (white), 5008 (red), 5037 (orange), 5024 (yellow), 5090 (green), 5020 (blue), 5028 (purple), 0248 (light gray), 5001 (black)
  • 04
    Small amounts: 12 g for the hooves, 12 g for the tail, 7 g for the body pockets, 14 g for the mane, 3 g for the horn
  • 05
    Some black yarn for eyes and a little contrast color for the mouth

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 3.0 mm
  • 02
    Tapestry needle(s)
  • 03
    Stitch markers (e.g. pieces of scrap-yarn)
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Stuffing (polyester fiberfill)
  • 06
    A bit of heavy stuffing (e.g. pea gravel, marbles, sand) in a small freezer bag
  • 07
    Optional: some colored pins for assembly
  • 08
    Yarn needle for sewing parts and weaving ends

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” ARM (FRONT LEG) :

Info :

For the unicorn I made each hoof in a different color.

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st* around - 16

Round 3 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 24

Round 4 :

in back loops (β†’ see page 27): *sc in next st* around - 24

Round 5 :

sc in next 6 st, *inv_dec, sc in next st* x4, sc in next 6 st - 20

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 20

Round 7 :

*sc in next st* around - 20

Info :

change to BODY-COLOR with last st

Info :

fasten off HOOF-COLOR and secure both yarn-ends with several knots on the hoof's inside

Round 8 :

in back loops: *sc in next st* around - 20

Info :

stuff the hoof a little bit but keep the underside flat

Round 9 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* around - 16

Round 10 :

*sc in next st* around - 16

Round 11 :

*sc in next st* around - 16

Round 12 :

*sc in next st* around - 16

Info :

stuff the arm a little bit. The following part of the arm can remain empty.

Round 13 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 6 st* x2 - 14

Round 14 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 15 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 5 st* x2 - 12

Round 16 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 17 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* x2 - 10

Round 18 :

*sc in next st* around - 10

Round 19 :

sc in next 4 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs β†’ see page 28 for details on crocheting openings closed

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end β†’ see page 29 for details on weaving in yarn-ends

β€” FOOT (HIND LEG) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st* around - 16

Round 3 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 24

Round 4 :

in back loops: *sc in next st* around - 24

Round 5 :

sc in next 6 st, *inv_dec, sc in next st* x4, sc in next 6 st - 20

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 20

Round 7 :

sc in next 7 st, *inv_dec, sc in next 2 st* x2, sc in next 5 st - 18

Info :

change to BODY-COLOR with last st

Round 8 :

in back loops: sc in next 5 st, *dec* x4, sc in next 5 st - 14

Info :

stuff the hoof a little bit, leave the rest of the leg empty

Round 9 :

sc in next 5 st, *inv_dec* x2, sc in next 5 st - 12

Round 10 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 11 :

sc in next 4 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 5 stitch-pairs

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

β€” TAIL-PART 1 (smallest) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 6 :

sc in next 2 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs

Round 7 :

ch 1 + turn, begin in 2nd st from hook: *sc in next st* across - 4

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

β€” TAIL-PART 2 :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 7 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 8 :

sc in next 2 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs

Round 9 :

ch 1 + turn, begin in 2nd st from hook: *sc in next st* across - 4

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

β€” TAIL-PART 3 :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 7 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 8 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 9 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 10 :

sc in next 2 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs

Round 11 :

ch 1 + turn, begin in 2nd st from hook: *sc in next st* across - 4

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

β€” TAIL-PART 4 :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 7 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 8 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 9 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 10 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 11 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 12 :

sc in next 2 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs

Round 13 :

ch 1 + turn, begin in 2nd st from hook: *sc in next st* across - 4

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

β€” OPTIONAL: POCKET (make 2) :

Info :

After a couple of rounds guide the yarn-end from the beginning to the outside through the center of the magic ring.

Round 1 :

magic ring of 7 sc - 7

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st* around - 14

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 7 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 8 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 9 :

*sc in next st* around (sl in last st) - 14

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end on the outside

β€” JAW :

Info :

There are no regular increases here.

Round 1 :

magic ring of 6 sc - 6

Round 2 :

sc in next st, 3sc in next st, sc in next st, 2sc in next st, sc in next st, 3sc in next st - 11

Round 3 :

sc in next 2 st, 3sc in next st, sc in next st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st, 2sc in next st, sc in next st, 3sc in next st, sc in next st - 17

Round 4 :

in this round two stitches are marked with additional markers sc in next 3 st, 3sc in next st (mark the 1st of the 3-increase stitches), sc in next 2 st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 4 st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st, 3sc in next st (mark the 3rd of the 3-increase stitches), sc in next 2 st - 23

Round 5 :

sl in first st

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end on the back side

β€” MANE-PART 1 & 6 (smallest) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 6 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* around - 8

Round 7 :

sc in next st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 3 stitch-pairs

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

β€” MANE-PART 2 & 5 :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 7 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* around - 8

Round 8 :

sc in next st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 3 stitch-pairs

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

β€” MANE-PART 3 & 4 :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 7 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 8 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* around - 8

Round 9 :

sc in next st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 3 stitch-pairs

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

β€” EAR (make 2) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 6 sc - 6

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* around - 8

Round 3 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st* around - 10

Round 4 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 4 st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 7 :

now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 5 stitch-pairs

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

β€” HORSE/UNICORN (make 1, begin with yarn in BODY-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 6 sc - 6

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 18

Round 4 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* around - 24

Info :

change of sequence from here on there are 8 increases per round instead of 6

Round 5 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* around - 32

Round 6 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st* around - 40

Round 7 :

sc in next 3 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 4 st* x7, 2sc in next st, sc in next st - 48

Round 8 :

sc in next 3 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 5 st* x7, 2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st - 56

Round 9 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 6 st* around - 64

Info :

in this round the arms, feet & tail-part 1 are crocheted to the body (β†’ see page 30 for details on crocheting body-parts to the body)

Round 10 :

in this round the arms, feet & tail-part 1 are crocheted to the body. sc in next 2 st, place the first arm on top of your work; the hoof's underside rests against the work, the "toes" pointing towards the magic ring; look at the round of front loops around the hoof's underside; find the gap between round's beginning and end; use two front loops on each side of that gap (the last two and first two stitches of that round); begin with the round's second to last front loop; guide your hook through the hoof's second to last front loop and from there through the next stitch on the body; push both stitches close together; you now have the first stitch-pair on your hook; crochet the first arm on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 16 st, now place the first foot in front of your work so that the "toes" are pointing towards you; crochet the first foot on with: sc in next 5 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 2 st, crochet the second foot on with: sc in next 5 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 15 st, crochet second arm on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 5 st, crochet tail-part 1 on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 2 st - 64

Info :

After round 10 the body has the arms and feet attached and tail-part 1 crocheted on.

Round 11 :

in this round tail-part 2 is crocheted to the body. sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 9 st, inv_dec, sc in next 9 st, inv_dec, sc in next 18 st, crochet tail-part 2 on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 2 st - 61 guide each of the first tail-part's yarn ends through stitches on the second tail part, between rounds 3 & 4 on the underside and let them come out between rounds 4 & 5 on the other side;

Round 12 :

in this round tail-part 3 is crocheted to the body sc in next 55 st, crochet tail-part 3 on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 2 st - 61

Info :

guide the tail-parts' yarn ends through stitches between rounds 3 & 4 and let them come out between rounds 4 & 5;

Round 13 :

in this round tail-part 4 is crocheted to the body sc in next 55 st, crochet tail-part 4 on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 2 st - 61

Info :

after round 13 all tail-parts are attached to the body and prepared for later. guide the tail parts' yarn ends through stitches between rounds 3 & 4 and let them come out between rounds 8 & 9; let the yarn-ends hang there for now; tie one single knot if you like to secure them a bit (needs to be opened again later);

Round 14 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 8 st, inv_dec, sc in next 8 st, inv_dec, sc in next 23 st - 58

Round 15 :

*sc in next st* around - 58

Round 16 :

*sc in next st* around - 58

Round 17 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 7 st, inv_dec, sc in next 7 st, inv_dec, sc in next 22 st - 55

Info :

during the next two rounds the pockets are crocheted to the body; it's similar to crocheting body-parts to the body with the difference that you place the pockets inside the body instead of placing them in front of it; ignore the prompts for the pockets if you don't want any; keep crocheting with single crochets until the round is complete;

Round 18 :

in this round the first half of each of the two pockets is crocheted to the body (β†’ see page 33 for details) sc in next 10 st, place the first pocket inside the body; guide your hook through the next stitch of the body and from there through one of the stitches of the pocket; partially crochet the first pocket on with: sc in next 7 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 16 st, partially crochet the second pocket on with: sc in next 7 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 15 st - 55

Round 19 :

in this round the second half of the pockets is crocheted to the body sc in next 10 st, continue on pocket with: sc in next 7 st, continue on body with: sc in next 16 st, continue on second pocket with: sc in next 7 st, continue on body with: sc in next 15 st - 55

Round 20 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 6 st, inv_dec, sc in next 6 st, inv_dec, sc in next 21 st - 52

Round 21 :

*sc in next st* around - 52

Round 22 :

*sc in next st* around - 52

Round 23 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 5 st, inv_dec, sc in next 5 st, inv_dec, sc in next 20 st - 49

Round 24 :

*sc in next st* around - 49

Round 25 :

*sc in next st* around - 49

Round 26 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 4 st, inv_dec, sc in next 4 st, inv_dec, sc in next 19 st - 46

Round 27 :

in this round the end of the first arm is crocheted to the body sc in next 36 st, crochet the arm on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 6 st - 46

Round 28 :

in this round the second arm is crocheted to the body sc in next 5 st, crochet the arm on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 37 st - 46 secure the tail-parts to the body (β†’ see page 34) untie the knot (if you made one) and guide the prepared yarn-ends from the tail-parts through two stitches of the body; use stitches between round 6 & 7 (counted from the body's opening); make sure the tail-parts sit upright and centered between the arms; pull the yarn-ends tight on the body's inside and check the tail's position; if it looks good secure the yarn-ends with several knots on the body's inside;

Round 29 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 3 st, inv_dec, sc in next 3 st, inv_dec, sc in next 18 st - 43

Round 30 :

in this round the jaw is crocheted to the body (β†’ see page 35) sc in next 18 st, place the jaw in front of the body so that the back side is facing towards you and the straight side with the two marked stitches is lined up with the stitches of the body; begin crocheting in the first of the marked stitches; leave the markers in until next round is done; crochet the jaw partially on with: sc in next 7 stitch-pairs (don't use the slip stitch in the middle for crocheting but the stitch the slip stitch sits in instead), continue on body with: sc in next 5 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* x3, sc in next 4 st - 46

Round 31 :

sc in next 6 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* x3, sc in next 3 st, now continue along the jaw with: (begin in the free stitch next to the one with the marker) 2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next st* x2, *sc in next st, 2sc in next st* x2, sc in next 3 st, 2sc in next st, (the markers can now be removed) continue on body with: sc in next 6 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st* x3, sc in next 3 st - 67

Info :

stuff the body. put a handful of heavy filling (e.g. pea gravel, sand, marbles...) into a small freezer bag; close the bag and place it inside the Horse's body, towards the front; make sure the front stays flat, don't force it to bulge out; fill the rest with soft stuffing; make sure there are no dents left on the body, especially in the back where the tail-parts are attached;

Round 32 :

sc in next 6 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st* x3, sc in next 49 st - 70

Round 33 :

*sc in next st* around - 70

Round 34 :

*sc in next st* around - 70

Round 35 :

at the end of this round the stitch-marker is set back by one stitch; leave the last stitch unworked because of that; sc in next 23 st, *inv_dec* x2, sc in next 16 st, *inv_dec* x2, sc in next 5 st, *inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* x3, sc in next 2 st, leave the last stitch unworked - 63 remove the stitch-marker

Round 36 :

during this round two stitches are marked with additional markers; these positions are later needed for the nostrils; first put the round's stitch-marker in the first of the following stitches: sc in next 5 st, *inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* x3, sc in next 29 st (mark here stitches #10 & 20 with additional markers), *inv_dec, sc in next 2 st* x2, sc in next 6 st - 58

Round 37 :

in this round the first mane-part is crocheted to the body; also two more stitches for the nostrils are marked; crochet mane-part 1 on with: sc in next 3 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 5 st, *inv_dec, sc in next 2 st* x2, sc in next 9 st, inv_dec, sc in next 9 st (mark stitches #2 & 9), inv_dec, sc in next 20 st - 54

Round 38 :

in this round the second mane-part is crocheted to the body crochet mane-part 2 on with: sc in next 3 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 20 st, inv_dec, sc in next 7 st, inv_dec, sc in next 20 st - 52

Assembly Instructions

  • During round 10 crochet the first arm to the body by aligning the hoof underside with the front loops on the body; insert hook through the hoof's front loop and the body stitch, push stitches together and crochet sc in next 4 stitch-pairs to join securely.
  • Attach the feet in round 10 by placing them with the toes pointing toward the magic ring and crocheting each foot on with sc in the next 5 stitch-pairs so the feet sit flush to the body.
  • Secure tail-parts by guiding a long piece of yarn through two stitches of the tail-part and across the body; during rounds 11-13 crochet the tail-parts to the body leaving yarn-ends accessible for final positioning and knotting inside the body.
  • Crochet the jaw to the body in round 30 by lining up the jaw's marked stitches with the body's stitches and crocheting the jaw partially on with sc in the next 7 stitch-pairs, then continue along the jaw and body as instructed until fully attached.
  • Sew mane-parts to the body in rounds 37-38 by crocheting each mane-part on with sc in next 3 stitch-pairs as directed; mark and secure nostril stitches where indicated and weave/secure yarn-ends on the inside.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers to mark the beginning of each round and positions noted for nostrils or mane parts to avoid confusion during shaping.
  • πŸ’‘Stuff firmly but do not overstuff; add a small freezer bag with heavy filling near the front to stabilize the phone stand while keeping the rest filled with soft stuffing for shape.
  • πŸ’‘Flatten openings before closing and crochet the specified number of stitch-pairs to close openings neatly and maintain a smooth edge.

This Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn is a joyful, handmade companion that keeps your phone upright with charm and stability. Make it as a colorful unicorn or a cozy brown horse β€” both are fun to personalize. The pattern includes clear steps for crochet, assembly, and clever stabilizing details so your stand is both pretty and practical. 🧢✨🧡

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

With the recommended DK yarn (or two strands of sport yarn) and a 3.0 mm hook the finished figure measures approximately 15 cm wide and 17 cm tall (without horn).

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but the final size will change; use a smaller hook for denser fabric or a larger hook for a softer, bigger figure and adjust the heavy filling accordingly.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and assumes familiarity with single crochet, invisible decreases, magic ring, and sewing parts; beginners with patience can follow the instructions but should be comfortable counting and shaping.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

This is a multi-day project and typically takes 12-15 hours in total depending on experience, the number of details you add, and assembly time.