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Personalised Post and Bobble Blanket Pattern

Personalised Post and Bobble Blanket Pattern
4.6★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
3.3K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

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Soft Hug

Gentle, plush, and full of warmth, creating a sense of comfort and coziness wherever they find a home.

About This Personalised Post and Bobble Blanket Pattern

This pattern creates a personalised post and bobble blanket with textured stripes, diamond waffle blocks and a central bobble name panel. It combines front post and back post stitches, bobbles and filet sections to build layered texture. Youll get full instructions, charts for lettering and guidance on colour changes.

Personalised Post and Bobble Blanket Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern includes letter charts so you can personalise names using bobbles worked on the wrong side. Use the included stitch counts and border instructions to finish the blanket neatly.

Why You'll Love This Personalised Post and Bobble Blanket Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines classic textured stitches with a personalised touch that makes every blanket unique. I enjoy the rhythm of the diamond waffle and the sculptural look of the plump posts. The name panel using bobbles is my favourite part — it really makes the blanket feel bespoke. I hope you find the stitch variety rewarding and the finished piece a joy to gift or keep.

Personalised Post and Bobble Blanket Pattern step 1 - construction progress Personalised Post and Bobble Blanket Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Personalised Post and Bobble Blanket Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Personalised Post and Bobble Blanket Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how adaptable this blanket is; you can change the colour sequence to create a gender-neutral palette or bold stripes for impact.

To make a larger blanket, use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook — adjust the foundation chain to keep multiples aligned with the stitch patterns.

If you want a smaller cot-sized blanket, substitute a finer yarn and smaller hooks and reduce the number of section repeats.

I often swap the central bobble name panel for a motif panel or a granny square block to change the focal point entirely.

You can embroider small motifs over the sc rows instead of bobbles for a flatter finish that still personalises the blanket.

Try substituting different border treatments — a scalloped edge or picot trim will give a very different finish from the ribbed post border.

I like to experiment with tonal colourways for a subtle textured look or high-contrast colours to make the bobbles and letters pop.

For a toy-safe baby version, avoid securing safety pieces and keep all yarn ends woven in and well-sewn; use cotton DK for easy washing.

I sometimes replace the cable section with a simple raised rib for a quicker version that still reads as textured and tactile.

Finally, consider adding a hanging loop or a small label to the back of the blanket with the recipient's birth details for a keepsake touch.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the smaller hook recommendation for personalisation rows can cause uneven edges; use the 4mm hook on bobble/name rows to keep the width consistent. ✗ Miscounting foundation chain stitches will make the pattern sections off-center; count 108 chains for the foundation and verify 107 working sts before starting section repeats. ✗ Failing to carry yarn B correctly through bobble stitches causes messy colour transitions; carry yarn B through the bobble loop and carry yarn A through subsequent sc's as instructed. ✗ Not placing the name centrally will look unbalanced; use the provided stitch calculations (19 sts either side for Jenson example) to position your name evenly before working bobbles.

Personalised Post and Bobble Blanket Pattern

Make a cosy, personalised baby blanket with textured post stitches and bobbles. This pattern walks you through Diamond Waffle, Cable, Chevron and Plump Post sections plus letter charts for custom names. Youll enjoy mixing colours and mastering front post techniques to create a beautiful heirloom blanket.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Personalised Post and Bobble Blanket Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Yarn A: 150g DK (light blue in photos)
  • 02
    Yarn B: 100g DK (white in photos)
  • 03
    Yarn C: 100g DK (dark blue in photos)
  • 04
    Yarn D: 50g DK (grey in photos)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 4.5mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 4.0mm (for personalisation rows)
  • 03
    Tapestry needle
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Stitch markers
  • 06
    Measuring tape

Progress Tracker

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— Pattern :

Foundation Row :

Using 4.5mm hook and yarn A, ch 108

— Diamond Waffle Section :

Row 1 :

sc in 2nd ch from hook and every st across (107 st's here and throughout). Note, in subsequent repeats of this row: ch 1, turn, sc in every st across.

Row 2 :

ch 2 (counts as dc), turn, dc next st and every st across

Row 3 :

ch 1, turn, fptr around the 4th sc from last sc row (be careful to not count the starting ch 1 as a sc here), sc in the next 4 st's (make sure to sk the st that the fptr would have gone into!), fptr2tog using the same 4th sc from last sc row that you just went into, sk the next 4 st's from last sc row and place the second half of the fptr2tog around the 5th st, sc in the next 4 st's (remember NOT to work into the st that would have been the fptr st), *fptr2tog using the same st from last sc row that you just went into, sk the next 4 st's from last sc row and place the second half of the fptr2tog in the 5th st, sc in next 4 st's; repeat from * to last 2 st's, fptr using same st from last sc row, sc in top of ch 2 from starting ch of previous row. Don't worry, this is the most difficult row of the entire pattern!

Row 4 :

ch 2 (counts as dc), turn, dc next st and every st across

Row 5 :

ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 st's (this gets your hook directly above the bottom "peak" of the diamond/triangle), fptr2tog using the first fptr post of row before last for the first half of this fptr2tog and the 2nd AND 3rd post for the second half of this fptr2tog, sc in next 4 st's (remember NOT to work into the st that would have been the fptr st), *fptr2tog around both posts from prior peak on row before last for first half of fptr2tog and around both posts of next peak on row before last for second half of fptr2tog, 4 sc's; rep from * to last 4 st's, fptr2tog around both posts from prior peak on row before last for first half of fptr2tog and around the last post of row before last for second half of fptr2tog, 3 sc's with the last sc in the top of starting ch 2.

Row 6 :

ch 2 (counts as dc), turn, dc next st and every st across

Row 7 :

ch 1, turn, fptr around both posts of the first 'peak' from the row before last, sc in the next 4 st's (make sure to sk the st that the fptr would have gone into, which in this instance would have been the first st of the row), *fptr2tog around both posts from prior peak on row before last (again) for first half of fptr2tog and around both posts of next peak on row before last for second half of fptr2tog, 4 sc's; rep from * to last 2 st's, fptr around both posts of last peak from row before last, sc in top of ch 2 from starting ch of previous row.

Row 8 :

ch 2 (counts as dc), turn, dc in next st and every st across.

Row 9 :

repeat row 5.

Row 10 :

ch 1, turn, sc in first st and every st across.

— Filet Border Section :

Row 11 :

change to yarn B, ch 1, turn, sc in first st and every st across.

Row 12 :

ch 3 (counts as dc and ch 1), turn, sk 1, dc, *ch 1, sk 1, dc; rep from * to end

Row 13 :

ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *sc in 1 ch sp, sc; rep from * to end.

— Cable Section :

Row 14 :

Change to yarn C, ch 2 (counts as dc), turn, dc in next st and every st across

Row 15 :

ch 2 (counts as dc), turn, make 1 dc in each of the next 2 st's, *pftr around next corresponding dc from last dc row, sk 1, 2 fptr's around following 2 dc's from last dc row, fptr back around skipped dc from last dc row, fptr around next dc from last dc row, 3 dc's (you will have skipped working in to the top of 5 st's between these 3 dc's and the last 3 dc's); rep from * to end.

Row 16 :

ch 1, turn, sc in first st and every st across

Row 17 :

ch 2 (counts as dc), turn, make 1 dc in each of the next 2 st's, *fptr around corresponding fptr from last fptr row, sk 1 fptr from last fptr row, 2 fptr's around following 2 fptr's from last fptr row, fptr back around skipped fptr from last fptr row, fptr around next fptr from last fptr row, 3 dc's (you will have skipped 5 sc's from last row between these 3 dc's and the last 3 dc's); rep from * to end.

Row 18 :

rep row 16

Row 19 :

rep row 17

Row 20 :

rep row 16

Row 21-23 :

change to yarn B, rep filet border section (rows 11-13)

— Chevron Section :

Row 24 :

Change to yarn A, ch 1, turn, sc in first st and every st across

Row 25 :

ch 2 (counts as dc), turn, 4 dc's, *ch 1, sk 1, 5 dc's; rep from * to end (this creates multiple 5 st sections)

Row 26 :

ch 1, turn, sc in 1st st and next 4 st's, *ch 1, sk 1, 5 sc's; rep from * to end.

Row 27 :

ch 1, turn, yarn over twice, fptc around 3rd dc from last dc row, 3 dc's into 2nd, 3rd and 4th sc of previous row (under the fptc just made), fptc again around 3rd dc from last dc row BUT don't complete the st, just yarn over and pull through 2 loops twice, leaving 2 loops still on the hook, dc in the 5th sc with the 2nd yarn over and pull through going through all 3 loops on hook (this is a fptcdctog), ch 1, sk 1, yarn over and insert hook into 1st sc of 5 st section from previous row, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops leaving 2 loops on hook, yarn over twice, fptc around 3rd dc from last dc 5 st section with the 3rd yarn over and pull through going through all 3 loops on hook (this is a dcfptctog), 3 dc's into 2nd, 3rd and 4th sc of previous row (under the dcfptctog just made), fptcdctog around 3rd dc with the dc in the 5th, *ch 1, sk 1, dcfptctog, 3 dc's into 2nd, 3rd and 4th sc, fptcdctog; rep from * to end.

Row 28 :

rep row 26

Row 29 :

rep row 27

Row 30 :

rep row 26

Row 31 :

rep row 27

Row 32 :

ch 1, turn, sc in 1st and next 4 st's, sc in 1 ch sp, 5 sc's, *sc in 1 ch sp, 5 sc's; rep from * to end.

Row 33-35 :

Change to yarn B, rep filet border section (rows 11-13)

— Plump Posts Section :

Row 36 :

Change to yarn D, ch 1, turn, sc in first st and every st across

Row 37 :

ch 2 (counts as dc), turn, dc in next st and every st across.

Row 38 :

ch 1, turn, sc in first st and every st across

Row 39 :

ch 2 (counts as dc), turn, dc in next 2 st's, *dfpdc (double front post double crochet) around the corresponding dc from the last dc row, 3 dc's; rep from * to end.

Row 40 :

ch 1, turn, sc in first st and every st across

Row 41 :

ch 2 (counts as dc), turn, *dfpdc around the corresponding dc from the last dc row, 3 dc's; rep from * to last 2 st's, dfpdc around the corresponding dc from the last dc row, dc in last st.

Row 42 :

ch 1, turn sc in first st and every st across

Row 43 :

rep row 39

Row 44 :

ch 1, turn, sc in first st and every st across

Row 45-47 :

Change to yarn B, rep filet border section (rows 11-13)

— Diamond Waffle Section :

Row 48 :

Change to yarn A, ch 1, turn, sc in first st and every st across

Row 49-53 :

rep rows 1-5 of diamond waffle section

— Personalisation Section :

Row 54-57 :

continuing with yarn A, ch 1, turn, sc in first st and every st across

Row 58-70 :

using 4mm hook, yarn A and B, make personalisation rows (see next page)

Row 71-74 :

ch 1, turn, sc in first st and every st across

Info :

Tip, using a size smaller hook on these rows helps keep the edges straight to achieve a professional and neat finish. Bobbles are worked in yarn B on the wrong side and separated by 1 sc (in yarn A) in between bobbles and a row of sc (in yarn A) on the right side after each wrong side bobble row. Carry yarn B through bobble stitch and carry yarn A through sc's as needed. Majority of letters are 5 bobbles across (9 st's including sc spaces) and 7 bobbles high (13 st's including sc rows on rights side). There are 3 sc's in between each letter. Calculation example: 107 (total st's) - 69 (st's for required name) = 38 st's remaining; 38/2 = 19 st's before name personalisation section & 19 st's after.

— Diamond Waffle Section :

Row 75-79 :

cont. with yarn A, rep rows 1-5 of diamond waffle section

Row 80 :

ch 1, turn, sc in first st and every st across

Row 81-83 :

Change to yarn B, rep filet border section (rows 11-13)

Row 84-92 :

Change to yarn D, rep rows 36-44 of plump posts section

Row 93-95 :

Change to yarn B, rep filet border section (rows 11-13)

Row 96-104 :

Change to yarn A, rep rows 24-32 of chevron section

Row 105-107 :

Change to yarn B, rep filet border section (rows 11-13)

Row 108-114 :

Change to yarn C, rep rows 14-20 of cable section

Row 115-117 :

Change to yarn B, rep filet border section (rows 11-13)

Row 118 :

Change to yarn A, ch 1, turn, sc in first st and every st across

Row 119-128 :

rep rows 1-10 of diamond waffle section. Fasten off.

— Border :

Info :

Tip, using a size smaller crochet hook for the edging helps achieve a neat, flat border without ruffling. This border firstly creates a filet border sections all around and then rounds 4, 5 & 6 create a simple rib border which makes the blanket lay flat and square.

Round 1 :

With the right side of blanket facing you, using a 4mm hook, join yarn B anywhere along the edge, ch 1, pick up and sc all around the edge of the blanket. Ensure you pick up the right amount of st's along each side so your blanket lays flat. Too many st's will create ruffling and too few will create pulling. As a guide, you should have roughly 125 st's along each left and right side with the below stitch count guide per section. Make 1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc in each corner and sl st to first sc to join. Tip, crochet over the tail ends on this row to avoid sewing them all in at the end.

Round 2 :

ch 3 (counts as dc + 1 ch), sk 1, *dc, ch 1, sk 1; rep from * all around the edge. In each corner 2 ch sp make 1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc. Sl st to ch 2 of starting ch 3 to join.

Round 3 :

ch 1, sc in same st and every st and 1 ch sp around. In each corner 2 ch sp make 1 sc, 2 ch's, 1 sc. Sl st to first st to join.

Round 4 :

change to yarn C, join yarn anywhere around the edge, ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in every st around. In each corner 2 ch sp make 1 dc, 2 ch's, 1 dc. Sl st to first dc (not the starting ch 2) to join.

Round 5 :

ch 2, *fpdc, bpdc; repeat from * all round. In each corner 2 ch sp, make 1 dc, 2 ch's, 1 dc. Always begin with a fpdc after each corner, and it doesn't matter if you end with a front or back post before the 2 ch sp. Sl st to first fpdc (not the starting ch 2) to join.

Round 6 :

ch 2, *fpdc around each fpdc from previous round, bpdc around each bpdc from previous round; repeat from * all round. In each corner 2 ch sp make 1 dc, 2 ch's, 1 dc. Sl st to first fpdc (not the starting ch 2) to join. Fasten off.

Info :

Sew in all loose ends.

Assembly Instructions

  • Position the name personalisation panel centrally using the stitch calculation (for example, 19 stitches either side of a 69 stitch name panel in a 107 stitch blanket) before working bobble rows and adjust spacing as required.
  • When changing colours for bobbles, carry yarn B through the bobble stitch so it sits on the wrong side and carry yarn A through the sc's to create sharp colour changes.
  • Join yarn for the border with the right side facing you and pick up stitches evenly around the edge; aim for roughly 125 sts along left and right sides to avoid ruffling or pulling.
  • Work the edging rounds in sequence, joining with slip stitch each round and placing 2 ch spaces in corners for neat 90 degree joins before beginning the ribbed post border.
  • Weave in all tails as you go when possible and crochet over tail ends in the first border round to avoid a large finishing session.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use a 4mm hook for the personalisation/bobble rows to keep the width consistent with the rest of the blanket and prevent wavy edges.
  • 💡Bobbles are worked on the wrong side in yarn B and must be separated by single crochet rows in yarn A to maintain the pattern clarity and colour separation.
  • 💡Follow the stitch count calculations to centre names; miscounting will shift the name off-centre so recheck total stitches before starting the letter chart.
  • 💡Crochet over tail ends on the first border round to hide ends and reduce finishing work later.
  • 💡Work with consistent tension and use stitch markers if needed to mark section starts or the centre for the name panel.

This personalised post and bobble blanket pattern brings texture, colour and a heartfelt name panel together in one heirloom project. The mix of diamond waffle, chevrons, cables and plump posts makes a tactile, beautiful blanket you can treasure. Personalise with any name using the included charts and enjoy creating a truly special gift. 🧶✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished blanket measures approximately 60cm wide by 87cm long when using the recommended DK yarn and 4.5mm hook.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can but the final size and texture will change; use an appropriate hook for the yarn weight and make a gauge swatch to check stitch counts and width.

Do I need to know advanced stitches to make this blanket?

This pattern is rated intermediate and uses front post and back post stitches, bobbles and treble post combinations; familiarity with post stitches and reading charts will help.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters will take around 12-15 hours to complete this blanket, depending on experience and whether they personalise the name panel.