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Penny The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern

Penny The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern
4.1★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
4.1K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Penny The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a fully dressed amigurumi doll named Penny, a tennis player with a visor, pleated skirt, sneakers, and tiny accessories. The design uses color changes, a small wire skeleton for posability, and embroidered details for a polished finish. You'll learn to make the body, head, limbs, skirt, and accessories with clear step-by-step rounds and helpful photos.

Penny The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Pattern includes supply list, abbreviations, and construction notes required to assemble the doll. Detailed instructions cover color changes, binding off edges, and making a cardboard tennis racket and ball.

Why You'll Love This Penny The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it blends playful character design with practical construction techniques like a hidden wire skeleton and sewn-on clothing. I enjoy how the pleated skirt and visor add personality while remaining quick to crochet. The combination of colorwork and small details such as wristbands and embroidered logo make each finished doll feel special. Working on Penny is rewarding because you can customize colors and accessories to create unique characters.

Penny The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Penny The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Penny The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Penny The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize Penny's outfit colors, so I often use pastel shades for a softer look or bold team colors for a sporty vibe.

I sometimes change the yarn weight and hook to make a mini keychain version (use thinner yarn) or a larger cuddly doll (use bulky yarn and bigger hook).

I add little accessories like a tiny crocheted headband, removable jacket, or a scarf to give Penny different looks.

I experiment with embroidered facial expressions to change personality — a small smile, freckles, or different eye placement makes a big difference.

For more posability, I use softer flexible wire inside the limbs and test bending it before final stuffing; always wrap wire ends with adhesive plaster.

I like to make a set of outfits (winter, summer, and tennis uniform) so Penny can wear different clothes and become part of a small doll collection.

If you want a vintage look, try natural cotton yarns and muted colors and add tiny buttons or lace trims to the skirt.

I sometimes replace the cardboard racket with a tiny crocheted prop or a mini wooden paddle for a different sports theme.

For gifting, I make a matching crocheted tennis bag or a small postcard with a photo of Penny to create a charming handmade present.

Don't be afraid to mix textures — a fuzzy yarn for hair or boucle yarn for a plush skirt can add delightful character to your finished doll.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers during body and leg joining causes misaligned seams; place a marker at the start of round 39 and wherever you need symmetry to keep legs and body centered. ✗ Not stuffing gradually leads to lumps and hard spots; stuff in small amounts and shape as you go so the head and limbs remain smooth and even. ✗ Cutting threads too early during color changes can loosen edges; follow the pattern guidance and only cut threads when instructed to preserve neat color joins. ✗ Forgetting to secure the wire ends can cause poking or distortion; always wrap wire ends with adhesive plaster and test the fit inside the foot and arm before finishing. ✗ Working too tightly when using a very small hook makes parts too stiff and hard to assemble; maintain consistent, moderate tension and match hook size to yarn recommendations. ✗ Not counting increases/decreases precisely will change shape proportions; count stitches every increase and decrease row and use the exact placements noted in the pattern.

Penny The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern

Create Penny, a charming crochet tennis player doll, with step-by-step instructions and clear photos. This pattern guides you through shaping, color changes, and a hidden wire skeleton for posability. You will make a fully dressed doll with outfit details like a pleated skirt, visor, sneakers, and a tennis racket and ball.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Penny The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    YarnArt Jeans 50g/160m, 55% cotton/45% acrylic - Color 07 (beige) for body - approx 50g
  • 02
    YarnArt Jeans 50g/160m, 55% cotton/45% acrylic - Color 187 (yellow) for cap, T-shirt trim, sneakers and stockings - approx 25g
  • 03
    YarnArt Jeans 50g/160m, 55% cotton/45% acrylic - Color 62 (white) for T-shirt, pants, stockings and scrunchie - approx 25g
  • 04
    Alpina Vera 100g/280m, 55% cotton/45% acrylic - Color 29 (grey) for skirt, stockings, sneakers and cap (or YarnArt Jeans color 49 or Alize Cotton Gold color 200) - approx 30g
  • 05
    Alpina Rene 50g/125m, 100% cotton - Color 229 (brown) for hair - approx 20g

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook Tulip 1.5mm (or suitable for chosen yarn)
  • 02
    Moulinet thread of black and brown colors for face embroidery
  • 03
    Additional small piece of YarnArt Jeans color 62 (white) for face embroidering
  • 04
    Aluminium wire 2mm thick (2 pieces approximately 11.02 inches long)
  • 05
    Aluminium wire 1/1.5mm thick (1 piece approximately 9.06 inches long)
  • 06
    Adhesive plaster to wrap wire ends
  • 07
    Piece of plastic or cardboard 3.9 x 3.9 inches
  • 08
    Eyes 10mm (2 pieces) and some strong glue if gluing
  • 09
    Oil pastel in brown and peach/pink color (or blusher) and a paint brush to tint cheeks
  • 10
    Pliers, scissors, pins
  • 11
    Tapestry needle and a long needle
  • 12
    Polyester fiberfill
  • 13
    For tennis racket and ball: cardboard piece 7.87 x 7.87 inches, PVA glue, acrylic paints (white, grey, yellow), thin paintbrush, a piece of tulle 3.9 x 3.9 inches, checkered paper and pencil, a 0.79 x 0.79 inch piece of yellow paper, a small piece of polymer clay or air plasticine (yellow), white acrylic paint and thin paint brush

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Arms :

Info :

Beige color. 2 pieces. Don't fill with fiber

1 row :

5sc in MR

2 row :

5inc (10)

3 row :

10sc

4 row :

1 3dc bubble -9sc (10)

5 row :

(1dec-3sc)*2 (8) (the 1st dec must be exactly above 3dc bubble)

6 row :

8sc

Info :

Work 3 shifting sc in the left arm. Then work wristbands. I've worked wristbands of different colors for each arm, but you can make them of one color.

Right arm :

Change color into white one, but don't cut beige thread.

7 row :

8sl st (work loose)

Info :

Change color into yellow one, cut white thread.

8 row :

8sc (BLO and sc of the 6th row)

Info :

Link to the video to get known how to change thread color. Change color into grey one, cut yellow thread.

9 row :

8sc

Info :

Change color into beige one, cut grey thread.

left arm :

Change color into yellow, but don't cut beige thread.

7 row :

8sl st (work loose)

8 row :

8sc (BLO and sc of the 6th row)

9 row :

8sc

Info :

Change color into beige one, cut yellow thread.

10 row :

8sl st (work loose)

11 row :

8sc (BLO and sc of the 9th row)

12-17 row :

(6 rows): 8sc

18 row :

(1inc-3sc)*2 (10) Inc must be exactly in both sides of the arm.

19-24 row :

(6 rows): 10sc

Info :

Work 5 shifting sc in the right arm, and 4 shifting sc for the left one to make color changing exactly in the center of inner side of the arm.

Info :

Change color into white one, cut beige thread.

25 row :

10sl st (work loose)

Info :

Change color into grey one, but don't cut white thread.

26 row :

10sc (BLO and sc of the 24th row)

Info :

Change color into white one, cut grey thread.

27 row :

10sc

Info :

Fix and cut thread, hide tail thread.

— Legs :

Info :

Grey color. 2 pieces. Don't fill with fiber. 8ch, turn the work, from the 2nd ch.

1 row :

6sc-3sc in 1 stitch-5sc-2sc in 1 stitch (16)

2 row :

1inc-5sc-3inc-5sc-2inc (22)

3 row :

1sc-1inc-5sc-(1sc-1inc)*3-5sc-(1sc-1inc)*2 (28)

Info :

Link to the video to get known how to make and oval.

4 row :

BLO 28sc

Info :

Change color into yellow one, cut grey thread.

5 row :

28sl st (work loose)

6 row :

28sc (BLO and sc of the 4th row)

Info :

Insert insole right now. Cut an oval insole from plastic or cardboard of the length of the foot (in my case, it's an oval of 0,98 x 1,38 inches). Insert (or glue) it inside the foot. I recommend to cut the 2nd insole at once to have them of the same size.

Info :

Dec must be exactly in the center from 7 - 9 rows, if it's necessary make shifting sc.

7 row :

8sc-5dec-10sc (23)

8 row :

7sc-3dec-10sc (20)

9 row :

7sc-2dec-9sc (18)

Info :

Insert wire right now. Take a wire of 2 mm thick and 11,02 inches long and twist it in spiral and wrap ends with adhesive plaster. Bend it to make a form of foot.

Info :

Insert wire skeleton with wrapped part down. Fill the foot with fiber tightly with the help of a skewer or sushi stick. Then fill the leg with fiber in the process.

Info :

Link to the video below to get known how to make a wire skeleton.

Info :

Change color into white one, but don't cut yellow thread.

10 row :

BLO 3sc-1dec-(2sc-1dec)*2-3sc-1dec (14)

11-15 row :

(5 rows): 14sc

Info :

Work 1 shifting sc to have color change exactly above the heel in the back.

Info :

Change color into yellow one, but don't cut white thread.

16 row :

14sl st (work loose)

Info :

Change color into white one, cut yellow thread.

17 row :

14sc (BLO and sc of the 15th row)

Info :

Change color into grey one, don't cut white thread.

18 row :

14sl st (work loose)

Info :

Change color into white one, cut grey thread.

19 row :

14sc (BLO and sc of the 17th row)

20 row :

14sc

Info :

Change color into beige one, cut white thread.

21 row :

BLO 14sc

22-25 row :

(4 rows): 14sc

26 row :

3sc-1inc-7sc-1inc-2sc (16)

27-29 row :

(3 rows): 16sc

30 row :

4sc-1inc-8sc-1inc-2sc (18)

31-35 row :

(5 rows): 18sc

Info :

Work 3 shifting sc to have color changing exactly in the center of the back. Change color into white one, cut beige thread.

36 row :

18 sl st (work loose)

37 row :

18sc (BLO and sc of the 35th row)

38 row :

18sc

Info :

Leave unfinished 4 shifting sc in the left leg; fix and cut thread, hide tail thread. Work 5 shifting sc in the right leg, don't cut thread, we go on working the body.

Bind off foot :

Attach thread of grey color to FLO of the 3rd row, as it's shown in the photo and work 28sc. Fix and cut thread, hide tail thread.

Bind off the edge of the sneaker :

Attach thread of yellow color to FLO of the 9th row, as it's shown in the photo and work by the scheme: 1 row: 18sc. Change color into grey one, cut yellow thread. 2 row: 18sl st (work loose). 3 row: 18sc (BLO and sc of the 1st row). Fix and cut thread, hide tail thread.

Bind off stockings :

Attach thread of white color to FLO of the 20th row, as it's shown in the photo and work 14sc. Fix and cut thread, hide tail thread. Embroider shoelaces on the sneakers with grey color.

— Body :

Info :

Continue to work. Fill the body with fiber in the process. Place the legs to make them face with toes exactly straight. Legs attachment must be exactly along the center of inner part of hip. 4ch, sl st in the last sc of the 2nd leg. Twist wire of both legs together as it's shown in the photo.

39 row :

18sc along one leg-4sc along chain-18sc along the 2nd leg-4sc along chain (44)

Info :

Place the marker, which must be exactly in the back.

40-47 row :

(8 rows): 44sc

Info :

Work several shifting sc to have the marker aside the body (in my case, i've made 9 shifting sc). Change color into grey one, but don't cut white thread.

48 row :

44sc

— Skirt :

Info :

Yarn of grey color, use hook of the same number or a bit bigger one. Work in turning rows. Probably, you have to use hook of bigger number or add/remove 1-2 rows. Check to your work.

Info :

12ch, turn the work, from the 2nd ch.

1 row :

BLO 9sc-BLO 2sl st, 1ch, turn the work (11)

2 row :

BLO 2sl st-BLO 9sc, 1ch, turn the work (11)

Info :

Repeat the 1st and the 2nd rows 26 times; there must be 54 rows.

55 row :

BLO 9sc-BLO 2sl st, 1ch, turn the work (11)

Info :

Fold the piece in halves and work 11 sc in both sides. Fix and cut thread, hide tail thread.

49 row :

catch stitches of the skirt and the body - 44sc

Info :

Wrap twisted wire with adhesive plaster to make the skeleton safer. Change color into yellow one, cut grey thread.

50 row :

44sl st (work loose)

51 row :

44sc (BLO and sc of the 49th row)

Info :

Change color into white one, cut yellow thread.

52 row :

44sl st (work loose)

53 row :

BLO and sc of the 51st row: 1dec-20sc-1dec-20sc (42)

Info :

Dec must be exactly aside the body.

54 row :

(5sc-1dec)*6 (36)

55-57 row :

(3 rows): 36sc

58 row :

(4sc-1dec)*6 (30)

59-62 row :

(4 rows): 30sc

Info :

Attach the arms. Attach arms in 1 sc. If it's necessary shift the marker to have it exactly before right arm attaching (I've shifted in 2 sc). Place the arms to the body to make the fingers face straight.

Info :

Attach left arm, working sc together with the arm (it's the 1st sc of the row) and then work along the arm.

63 row :

10sc along left arm-14sc along the body-10sc along right arm (attach right arm in the same way as for the left one)-14sc along the body (48)

Info :

Insert wire skeleton inside the arms. Take a piece of wire 1/1,5mm thick and 9,06 inches long, bend it in both ends in about 0,39 inches and wrap with adhesive plaster. Insert wire in both arms behind main skeleton (see the photo). Fill the arms with fiber a bit with the help of a skewer or sushi stick (fill palms with fiber tightly, but the the rest of arm a bit).

64 row :

48sc

65 row :

3sc-1 triple dec-21sc-1 triple dec-18sc (44) (dec in 65, 66, 67 rows must be exactly aside in the center of shoulder)

66 row :

2sc-2dec-18sc-2dec-16sc (40)

67 row :

1sc-2dec-16sc-2dec-15sc (36)

68 row :

(4sc-1dec)*6 (30)

69 row :

(3sc-1dec)*6 (24)

Info :

Work 2 shifting sc to have the marker aside. Change color into beige one, cut white thread.

70 row :

BLO (2sc-1dec)*6 (18)

71 row :

(1sc-1dec)*6 (12)

72-79 row :

(8 rows): 12sc

Info :

Work required number of shifting sc to have the marker aside. Fix and cut thread, hide tail thread.

Collar :

Attach thread of yellow color to FLO of the 69th row and work by the scheme: 12sc-1hdc-4dc-1sl st-4dc-1hdc-1sc. Make sure, sl st must be exactly in the center.

Logo :

Embroider a logo on the T-shirt with yellow and white color.

— Head :

Info :

See the photo next page. Beige color. Fill the head with fiber in the process.

Info :

13ch, turn the work, from the 2nd ch

1 row :

11sc-3sc in 1 stitch-10sc-1inc (26)

2 row :

1inc-10sc-3inc-10sc-2inc (32)

3 row :

1sc-1inc-10sc-(1sc-1inc)*3-10sc-(1sc-1inc)*2 (38)

4 row :

2sc-1inc-10sc-(2sc-1inc)*3-10sc-(2sc-1inc)*2 (44)

5 row :

3sc-1inc-10sc-(3sc-1inc)*3-10sc-(3sc-1inc)*2 (50)

6 row :

4sc-1inc-10sc-(4sc-1inc)*3-10sc-(4sc-1inc)*2 (56)

7 row :

25sc-1inc-27sc-1inc-2sc (58) Inc must be exactly aside.

8 row :

58sc

9 row :

26sc-1inc-28sc-1inc-2sc (60) Inc must be exactly aside.

10-17 row :

(8 rows): 60sc

18 row :

4sc-1dec-(8sc-1dec)*5-4sc (54)

19 row :

(7sc-1dec)*6 (48)

Info :

If you use eyes on safe fastening, insert them between 11 and 14 rows in the distance of 6 sc.

20 row :

7sc-1dec-(6sc-1dec)*5-3sc (42)

21 row :

(5sc-1dec)*6 (36)

22 row :

2sc-1dec-(4sc-1dec)*5-2sc (30)

23 row :

(3sc-1dec)*6 (24)

24 row :

1sc-1dec-(2sc-1dec)*5-1sc (18)

25 row :

(4sc-1dec)*3 (15)

26 row :

BLO 15sc

27-33 row :

(7 rows): 15sc

Info :

Fix and cut thread, hide tail thread. Fill the head with fiber.

Info :

Push the lower part of the head inside the head with the help of sushi stick. Make sure, the head is filled with fiber tightly, but it can easily be put on the neck. Attach the head to the body. Firstly decorate the face and then fix it to the body.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the head to the body by inserting the lower neck part into the opening at the top of the body and sew securely; push the lower part inside with a skewer to ensure tight stuffing and easy placement on the neck.
  • Attach the legs during round 39 placement: align toes straight and sew legs into the body so that attachment points are exactly along the center of inner part of hip, then twist the leg wires together and wrap with adhesive plaster.
  • Attach arms in one single crochet each: attach left arm by working the first sc together with the body and then stitch around, attach right arm in same way and position fingers straight before final sewing.
  • Insert and secure the internal wire skeletons: wrap wire ends with adhesive plaster, insert the 2 mm wires into the feet and the 1/1.5 mm wire into the arms behind the main skeleton, then fill the limbs firmly with fiber.
  • Sew the skirt to the body by catching the skirt stitches to the body in round 49 (44sc), then continue body shaping; embroider the T-shirt logo and shoelaces after pieces are attached.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to mark the start of rounds and to keep track of increases and decreases for accurate symmetry.
  • 💡Stuff parts gradually and firmly but not overstuffed; use a skewer or sushi stick to push fiber deep into narrow necks and hands.
  • 💡Wrap and secure wire ends with adhesive plaster to prevent them from poking through the crochet fabric and to make the skeleton safer.
  • 💡Do not cut color threads until instructed during the pattern to preserve neat color joins and to allow smooth transitions.
  • 💡Pin parts in place before sewing to check alignment and symmetry; move the marker if necessary to place arms exactly where you want them.

This Penny tennis player pattern brings a playful sporty charm to your amigurumi collection! The design combines simple shaping with colorwork, a hidden wire skeleton for posability, and sweet outfit details that make Penny irresistible. Whether you keep her on a shelf or gift her to a friend, she will surely bring smiles. 🧶🎾

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The size of the finished doll is approximately 11.02 inches tall when using the recommended yarns and hook size.

Can I omit the wire skeleton if I prefer a softer doll?

Yes, you can omit the wire skeleton, but you will need a skewer or other reinforcement in the neck to strengthen the head attachment.

Do I need advanced skills to make Penny?

This pattern is rated intermediate because it uses color changes, shaping, and wiring; basic amigurumi experience and knowledge of increases, decreases, BLO/FLO, and finishing is recommended.

How long does it typically take to complete this pattern?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though time may vary depending on experience, customization, and making the tennis racket and ball.

Can I change the doll's outfit colors?

Yes, you can customize all colors including skirt, T-shirt trim, and sneakers; swapping yarn colors will alter the doll's look while following the same instructions.