🧢 Beautiful ✨ Detailed πŸ’ Adorable

Penny, The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern

Penny, The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern
4.3β˜… Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
4.1K Made This
βœ‚οΈ

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Penny, The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates Penny, a crochet tennis player doll with detailed clothing and accessories including a skirt, cap and tiny racket. The design includes a wire skeleton for poseable legs and arms, plus clear step-by-step rounds for shaping. You will learn shaping techniques like shifting single crochets and triple decreases to create neat shoulders and joints.

Penny, The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern features detailed rows for head, body, arms and legs, plus finishing instructions for embroidery and assembly. Photos and video links are referenced to help with tricky steps like color changes and wire skeleton construction.

Why You'll Love This Penny, The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines delicate shaping with playful accessories that give the doll personality. I enjoyed designing a tiny wardrobe β€” sneakers, a pleated skirt and a visor β€” that really bring Penny to life. The wire skeleton allows me to pose her naturally, which makes displaying the finished piece more satisfying. I also appreciate how the pattern teaches techniques like shifting sc and triple decrease, which improved my own amigurumi skills.

Penny, The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Penny, The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Penny, The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Penny, The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love experimenting with color choices on this doll; try pastel shades for a softer look or bright sporty colors to make Penny pop.

If you want a bigger or smaller doll, change your yarn weight and hook size β€” bulky yarn with a larger hook creates a chunky version, while finer yarn makes a mini keychain size.

I often swap the pleated skirt for shorts or a dress to give the character a different outfit and vibe.

Try different hairstyles: short bob, braids, or even embroidered hair for an easier finish.

I sometimes leave out the wire skeleton for a softer toy; just reinforce the neck with a skewer or stronger stuffing method instead.

For a posable version, add more wire segments in limbs and secure joints with hot glue or wrapped adhesive plaster for durability.

You can personalize the logo on the T-shirt by embroidering initials, numbers, or tiny motifs with contrast thread.

Swap the tennis racket for a small bag, book, or pet to create a whole series of themed dolls from the same body pattern.

I like to embellish sneakers with tiny buttons or painted accents using acrylic paint for a realistic touch.

Consider using safety joints for removable limbs if you plan to make changeable outfits or wardrobes for the doll.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Not using a wire skeleton for limbs can make the doll floppy; use the specified wire sizes and wrap ends with adhesive plaster to create a secure internal skeleton. βœ— Ignoring exact increase/decrease placement causes lopsided shaping; count stitches each round and use markers to ensure increases and decreases line up properly. βœ— Changing colors without securing tails results in loose or messy joins; carry threads where possible and cut/hide tails only when instructed to maintain clean color transitions. βœ— Overstuffing or uneven stuffing will distort shaping, especially in the head and feet; stuff gradually, using a skewer to push fiber into narrow areas and maintain consistent firmness. βœ— Skipping shifting single crochets when directed will misplace color changes and seams; follow shifting instructions exactly and adjust counts if needed to center color changes.

Penny, The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern

Make a charming tennis player doll you can proudly display or gift. This detailed amigurumi pattern walks you through shaping limbs, creating a wire skeleton, and finishing crisp clothing details. You will enjoy making the skirt, sneakers and tiny tennis racket to complete Penny's sporty look. Perfect for intermediate crocheters who like small, precise work and beautiful handmade toys.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Penny, The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    YarnArt Jeans, 50g/160m, 55% cotton 45% acrylic - Color 07 (beige) - for body
  • 02
    YarnArt Jeans, 50g/160m, 55% cotton 45% acrylic - Color 187 (yellow) - for cap, T-shirt, sneakers and stockings
  • 03
    YarnArt Jeans, 50g/160m, 55% cotton 45% acrylic - Color 62 (white) - for T-shirt, pants, stockings and scrunchie
  • 04
    Alpina Vera, 100g/280m, 55% cotton 45% acrylic - Color 29 (grey) - for skirt, stockings, sneakers and cap (alternative: YarnArt Jeans color 49 or Alize Cotton Gold color 200)
  • 05
    Alpina Rene, 50g/125m, 100% cotton - Color 229 (brown) - for hair

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook Tulip 1.5 (or suitable for chosen yarn)
  • 02
    Moulinet thread of black and brown colors for face embroidery
  • 03
    Small piece of YarnArt Jeans color 62 (white) for face embroidering
  • 04
    Aluminium wire 2mm thick (2 pieces of about 11.02 inches long)
  • 05
    Aluminium wire 1/1.5mm (1 piece of about 9.06 inches long) and adhesive plaster to wrap wire ends
  • 06
    Piece of plastic or cardboard of 3.9 x 3.9 inches (for templates)
  • 07
    Cardboard piece of 7.87 x 7.87 inches for the tennis racket base
  • 08
    PVA glue or strong glue
  • 09
    Acrylic paints or gouache (white for ball, grey and yellow for racket) and thin paintbrush
  • 10
    Piece of tulle 3.9 x 3.9 inches
  • 11
    Checkered sheet of paper and a pencil (for racket design)
  • 12
    Small piece of yellow paper 0.79 x 0.79 inches and small piece of polymer clay or air plasticine (yellow) for ball details
  • 13
    Eyes 10mm and strong glue if gluing eyes instead of safety eyes
  • 14
    Oil pastel (brown and peach/pink) or blusher and a paint brush to tint cheeks
  • 15
    Pliers, scissors, pins
  • 16
    Tapestry needle and a long needle for sewing and embroidering
  • 17
    Polyester fiberfill (fiberfill)
  • 18
    Skewer or sushi stick to help with stuffing and shaping

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” Arms :

Info :

Beige color. 2 pieces. Don't fill with fiber

Round 1 :

1 row: 5sc in MR

Round 2 :

2 row: 5inc (10)

Round 3 :

3 row: 10sc

Round 4 :

4 row: 1 3dc bubble -9sc (10)

Round 5 :

5 row: (1dec-3sc)*2 (8) (the 1st dec must be exactly above 3dc bubble)

Round 6 :

6 row: 8sc

Info :

Work 3 shifting sc in the left arm. Then work wristbands. I've worked wristbands of different colors for each arm, but you can make them of one color.

Right arm :

Change color into white one, but don't cut beige thread.

Round 7 :

7 row: 8sl st (work loose)

Info :

Change color into yellow one, cut white thread.

Round 8 :

8 row: 8sc (BLO and sc of the 6th row)

Info :

Link to the video to get known how to change thread color. Here and further press YouTube icon to link to the video.

Info :

Change color into grey one, cut yellow thread.

Round 9 :

9 row: 8sc

Info :

Change color into beige one, cut grey thread.

Left arm :

Change color into yellow, but don't cut beige thread.

Round 7 :

7 row: 8sl st (work loose)

Round 8 :

8 row: 8sc (BLO and sc of the 6th row)

Round 9 :

9 row: 8sc

Info :

Change color into beige one, cut yellow thread.

Round 10 :

10 row: 8sl st (work loose)

Round 11 :

11 row: 8sc (BLO and sc of the 9th row)

Round 12-17 :

12-17 row (6 rows): 8sc

Round 18 :

18 row: (1inc-3sc)*2 (10) Inc must be exactly in both sides of the arm.

Round 19-24 :

19-24 row (6 rows): 10sc

Info :

Work 5 shifting sc in the right arm, and 4 shifting sc for the left one to make color changing exactly in the cetner of inner side of the arm. Change color into white one, cut beige thread.

Round 25 :

25 row: 10sl st (work loose)

Info :

Change color into grey one, but don't cut white thread.

Round 26 :

26 row: 10sc (BLO and sc of the 24th row)

Info :

Change color into white one, cut grey thread.

Round 27 :

27 row: 10sc

Info :

Fix and cut thread, hide tail thread.

β€” Legs :

Info :

Grey color. 2 pieces. Don't fill with fiber. 8ch, turn the work, from the 2nd ch.

Round 1 :

1 row: 6sc-3sc in 1 stitch-5sc-2sc in 1 stitch (16)

Round 2 :

2 row: 1inc-5sc-3inc-5sc-2inc (22)

Round 3 :

3 row: 1sc-1inc-5sc-(1sc-1inc)*3-5sc-(1sc-1inc)*2 (28)

Info :

Link to the video to get known how to make and oval.

Round 4 :

4 row: BLO 28sc

Info :

Change color into yellow one, cut grey thread.

Round 5 :

5 row: 28sl st (work loose)

Round 6 :

6 row: 28sc (BLO and sc of the 4th row)

Info :

Insert insole right now. Cut an oval insole from plastic or cardboard of the length of the foot (in my case, it's an oval of 0,98 x 1,38 inches). Insert (or glue) it inside the foot. I recommend to cut the 2nd insole at once to have them of the same size.

Info :

Dec must be exactly in the center from 7 - 9 rows, if it's necessary make shifting sc.

Round 7 :

7 row: 8sc-5dec-10sc (23)

Round 8 :

8 row: 7sc-3dec-10sc (20)

Round 9 :

9 row: 7sc-2dec-9sc (18)

Info :

Insert wire right now. Take a wire of 2 mm thick and 11,02 inches long and twist it in spiral and wrap ends with adhesive plaster. Bend it to make a form of foot.

Info :

Insert wire skeleton with wrapped part down. Fill the foot with fiber tightly with the help of a skewer or sushi stick. Then fill the leg with fiber in the process. Link to the video below to get known how to make a wire skeleton.

Info :

Change color into white one, but don't cut yellow thread.

Round 10 :

10 row: BLO 3sc-1dec-(2sc-1dec)*2-3sc-1dec (14)

Round 11-15 :

11-15 row (5 rows): 14sc

Info :

Work 1 shifting sc to have color change exactly above the heel in the back.

Info :

Change color into yellow one, but don't cut white thread.

Round 16 :

16 row: 14sl st (work loose)

Info :

Change color into white one, cut yellow thread.

Round 17 :

17 row: 14sc (BLO and sc of the 15th row)

Info :

Change color into grey one, don't cut white thread.

Round 18 :

18 row: 14sl st (work loose)

Info :

Change color into white one, cut grey thread.

Round 19 :

19 row: 14sc (BLO and sc of the 17th row)

Round 20 :

20 row: 14sc

Info :

Change color into beige one, cut white thread.

Round 21 :

21 row: BLO 14sc

Round 22-25 :

22-25 row (4 rows): 14sc

Round 26 :

26 row: 3sc-1inc-7sc-1inc-2sc (16) Inc must be exactly along both sides of the leg. If it's necessary make required number of shifting sc.

Round 27-29 :

27-29 row (3 rows): 16sc

Round 30 :

30 row: 4sc-1inc-8sc-1inc-2sc (18) Inc must be exactly along both sides of the leg. If it's necessary make required number of shifting sc.

Round 31-35 :

31-35 row (5 rows): 18sc

Info :

Work 3 shifting sc to have color changing exactly in the center of the back. Change color into white one, cut beige thread.

Round 36 :

36 row: 18 sl st (work loose)

Round 37 :

37 row: 18sc (BLO and sc of the 35th row)

Round 38 :

38 row: 18sc

Info :

Leave unfinished 4 shifting sc in the left leg; fix and cut thread, hide tail thread. Work 5 shifting sc in the right leg, don't cut thread, we go on on working the body.

Info :

Bind off foot: Attach thread of grey color to FLO of the 3rd row, as it's shown in the photo and work 28sc. Fix and cut thread, hide tail thread.

Info :

Bind off the edge of the sneaker: Attach thread of yellow color to FLO of the 9th row, as it's shown in the photo and work by the scheme. 1 row: 18sc. Change color into grey one, cut yellow thread. 2 row: 18sl st (work loose). 3 row: 18sc (BLO and sc of the 1st row). Fix and cut thread, hide tail thread.

Info :

Bind off stockings: Attach thread of white color to FLO of the 20th row, as it's shown in the photo and work 14sc. Fix and cut thread, hide tail thread. Embroider shoelaces on the sneakers with grey color.

β€” Body :

Info :

Continue to work. Fill the body with fiber in the process. Place the legs to make them face with toes exactly straight. Legs attachment must be exactly along the center of inner part of hip. 4ch, sl st in the last sc of the 2nd leg. Twist wire of both legs together as it's shown in the photo.

Round 39 :

39 row: 18sc along one leg-4sc along chain-18sc along the 2nd leg -4sc along chain (44)

Info :

Place the marker, which must be exactly in the back.

Round 40-47 :

40-47 row (8 rows): 44sc

Info :

Work several shifting sc to have the marker aside the body (in my case, i've made 9 shifting sc). Change color into grey one, but don't cut white thread.

Round 48 :

48 row: 44sc

β€” Skirt :

Info :

Yarn of grey color, use hook of the same number or a bit bigger one. Work in turning rows. Probably, you have to use hook of bigger number or add/remove 1-2 rows. Check to your work.

Info :

12ch, turn the work, from the 2nd ch.

Round 1 :

1 row: BLO 9sc-BLO 2sl st, 1ch, turn the work (11)

Round 2 :

2 row: BLO 2sl st-BLO9sc, 1ch, turn the work (11)

Info :

Repeat the 1st and the 2nd rows 26 times; there must be 54 rows.

Round 55 :

55 row: BLO 9sc-BLO 2sl st, 1ch, turn the work (11)

Info :

Fold the piece in halves and work 11 sc in both sides. Fix and cut thread, hide tail thread.

Info :

Continue to work the body and attach the skirt. Put the skirt on the body with row in sl st up and work in the following scheme.

Round 49 :

49 row: catch stitches of the skirt and the body - 44sc

Info :

Wrap twisted wire with adhesive plaster to make the skeleton safer. Change color into yellow one, cut grey thread.

Round 50 :

50 row: 44sl st (work loose)

Round 51 :

51 row: 44sc (BLO and sc of the 49th row)

Info :

Change color into white one, cut yellow thread.

Round 52 :

52 row: 44sl st (work loose)

Round 53 :

53 row: BLO and sc of the 51st row: 1dec-2osc-1dec-20sc (42) Dec must be exactly aside the body.

Round 54 :

54 row: (5sc-1dec)*6 (36)

Round 55-57 :

55-57 row (3 rows): 36sc

Round 58 :

58 row: (4sc-1dec)*6 (30)

Round 59-62 :

59-62 row (4 rows): 30sc

Info :

Attach the arms. Attach arms in 1 sc. If it's necessary shift the marker to have it exactly before right arm attaching (I've shifted in 2 sc). Place the arms to the body to make the fingers face straight. Attach left arm, working sc together with the arm (it's the 1st sc of the row) and then work along the arm.

Round 63 :

63 row: 10sc along left arm-14sc along the body-10sc along right arm (attach right arm in the same way as for the left one)-14sc along the body (48)

Info :

Insert wire skeleton inside the arms. Take a piece of wire 1/1,5mm thick and 9,06 inches long, bend it in both ends in about 0,39 inches and wrap with adhesive plaster. Insert wire in both arms behind main skeleton (see the photo). Fill the arms with fiber a bit with the help of a skewer or sushi stick (fill palms with fiber tightly, but the rest of arm a bit).

Round 64 :

64 row: 48sc

Round 65 :

65 row: 7sc-1 triple dec-21sc-1 triple dec-18sc (44) dec in 65, 66, 67 rows must be exactly aside in the center of shoulder. Link to the video to get known how to make a triple dec.

Round 66 :

66 row: 2sc-2dec-18sc-2dec-16sc (40)

Round 67 :

67 row: 1sc-2dec-16sc-2dec-15sc (36)

Round 68 :

68 row: (4sc-1dec)*6 (30)

Round 69 :

69 row: (3sc-1dec)*6 (24)

Info :

Work 2 shifting sc to have the marker aside. Change color into beige one, cut white thread.

Round 70 :

70 row: BLO (2sc-1dec)*6 (18)

Round 71 :

71 row: (1sc-1dec)*6 (12)

Round 72-79 :

72-79 row (8 rows): 12sc

Info :

Work required number of shifting sc to have the marker aside. Fix and cut thread, hide tail thread.

Collar :

Attach thread of yellow color to FLO of the 69th row and work by the scheme: 12sc-1hdc-4dc-1sl st-4dc-1hdc-1sc Make sure, sl st must be exactly in the center.

Logo :

Embroider a logo on the T-shirt with yellow and white color.

β€” Head :

Info :

See the photo next page. Beige color. Fill the head with fiber in the process. 13ch, turn the work, from the 2nd ch

Round 1 :

1 row: 11sc-3sc in 1 stitch-10sc-1sc-1inc (26)

Round 2 :

2 row: 1inc-10sc-3inc-10sc-2inc (32)

Round 3 :

3 row: 1sc-1inc-10sc-(1sc-1inc)*3-10sc-(1sc-1inc)*2 (38)

Round 4 :

4 row: 2sc-1inc-10sc-(2sc-1inc)*3-10sc-(2sc-1inc)*2 (44)

Round 5 :

5 row: 3sc-1inc-10sc-(3sc-1inc)*3-10sc-(3sc-1inc)*2 (50)

Round 6 :

6 row: 4sc-1inc-10sc-(4sc-1inc)*3-10sc-(4sc-1inc)*2 (56)

Round 7 :

7 row: 25sc-1inc-27sc-1inc-2sc (58) Inc must be exactly aside.

Round 8 :

8 row: 58sc

Round 9 :

9 row: 26sc-1inc-28sc-1inc-2sc (60) Inc must be exactly aside.

Round 10-17 :

10-17 row (8 rows): 60sc

Round 18 :

18 row: 4sc-1dec-(8sc-1dec)*5-4sc (54)

Round 19 :

19 row: (7sc-1dec)*6 (48)

Info :

If you use eyes on safe fastening, insert them between 11 and 14 rows in the distance of 6 sc.

Round 20 :

20 row: 3sc-1dec-(6sc-1dec)*5-3sc (42)

Round 21 :

21 row: (5sc-1dec)*6 (36)

Round 22 :

22 row: 2sc-1dec-(4sc-1dec)*5-2sc (30)

Round 23 :

23 row: (3sc-1dec)*6 (24)

Round 24 :

24 row: 1sc-1dec-(2sc-1dec)*5-1sc (18)

Round 25 :

25 row: (4sc-1dec)*3 (15)

Round 26 :

26 row: BLO 15sc

Round 27-33 :

27-33 row (7 rows): 15sc

Info :

Fix and cut thread, hide tail thread. Fill the head with fiber.

Info :

Push the lower part of the head inside the head with the help of sushi stick. Make sure, the head is filled with fiber tightly, but it can easily be put on the neck. Attach the head to the body. Firstly decorate the face and then fix it to the body.

Assembly Instructions

  • If you use safety eyes, insert them between head rounds 11 and 14 separated by 6 stitches before continuing decreases.
  • Attach legs by placing the toes exactly straight and join around with 4 ch and sl st to the last sc of the second leg; twist the leg wires together and wrap with adhesive plaster for strength.
  • Attach the skirt by placing its row in sl st up around body and work 49 row catching stitches of skirt and body to get 44 sc.
  • Sew arms into the body by aligning the first sc of the arm with the body stitch, then work sc together and continue around; ensure fingers face straight by positioning before sewing.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers to mark the start of each round and the center back to keep increase/decrease placement accurate.
  • πŸ’‘Wrap all exposed wire ends with adhesive plaster to prevent sharp edges and secure the skeleton inside the doll.
  • πŸ’‘Stuff gradually using a skewer or sushi stick to push fiber into narrow parts; overstuffing will distort shaping.
  • πŸ’‘Hide and secure thread tails as you go to keep color changes and joins tidy and avoid bulky seams.

This sweet Penny tennis player was crafted to be a tiny sporty companion with lots of little details and personality. The pattern includes a poseable wire skeleton, pleated skirt and tiny sneakers to make your creation come alive. Whether you gift her or keep her on display, she makes a delightful handmade keepsake. 🧢🎾

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 11.02 inches tall when using the recommended yarns and hook size.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but this will change the final size; adjust hook size accordingly and test gauge before starting.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate; you should be comfortable with single crochet, increases, decreases and working in rounds, as well as some shaping techniques like shifting sc and triple decreases.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 8-10 hours, though time may vary depending on experience and how long you spend on details and assembly.