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Panda Amigurumi Pattern

Panda Amigurumi Pattern
4.9β˜… Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
2.1K Made This
βœ‚οΈ

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journeyβ€”perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Panda Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern teaches you to crochet a small panda amigurumi approximately 16 cm tall using velvet and baby cotton yarns. It includes complete instructions for head, body, forelegs, hind legs, ears, tail and a striped sweater with photos. The toy uses plastic joints or cotter pins for movable limbs and optional wire frame for poseability. Clear rounds and assembly steps make it easy to follow while adding charming facial embroidery details.

Panda Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

You will learn techniques for making eye spots, attaching safety eyes through loops, and finishing embroidered features. The pattern is photo-supported and ideal for amigurumi makers wanting a slightly more advanced project.

Why You'll Love This Panda Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it balances simple amigurumi construction with delightful details like movable joints and a tiny striped sweater that give the panda personality. I enjoy how the velvet yarn makes the finished toy extra soft and tactile. Sewing the eye spots and embroidering the face adds a handmade warmth that makes each one unique. The clear photos and step-by-step rounds make assembly satisfying and ensure a polished final result.

Panda Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Panda Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Panda Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Panda Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how versatile this panda pattern is for customization β€” you can change the sweater colors to match any personality and make a themed set.

Try using pastel yarns for a nursery-friendly look or bright contrasting stripes for a playful vibe; the same rounds work beautifully with color swaps.

To make the panda larger or smaller, change your yarn weight and hook; bulky yarn with a larger hook yields a chunky cuddly version while thinner yarn makes a cute mini.

I often personalize the face by shifting eye placement slightly to alter expression or by embroidering different smiles and blushing the cheeks more or less.

Swap the plastic joints for sewn-in legs if you prefer a non-movable but sturdier toy for younger children.

Add tiny accessories like a crocheted scarf, hat, or a miniature backpack for character and gifting purposes.

Try embroidery variations: use French knots for freckles, or add tiny felt patches instead of embroidered whites for different finishes.

If you want a poseable version, insert a D1mm wire frame through the body and head as instructed; this gives gentle posability while remaining safe when wrapped carefully.

I also like combining textures by making the body in velvet and the sweater in cotton as shown β€” it creates an appealing tactile contrast.

For a keychain or bag charm, simply use thinner yarn and a smaller hook to create a mini panda and attach a small keyring to the top of the head.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers when working in the round makes it hard to track the beginning of a round; use a marker and move it consistently each round to avoid miscounting. βœ— Overstuffing head or body causes distortion and flattened shaping; stuff gradually and firmly only where specified, leaving some give for natural shaping. βœ— Changing yarn tension during increases or decreases leads to uneven shaping; keep consistent tension and count stitches after each round to maintain the correct stitch count. βœ— Failing to mark joint placement precisely will create misaligned limbs; use contrasting thread or pins to mark attachment points and test-fit before final sewing. βœ— Not hiding or weaving ends as you go results in a messy finish; leave long tails for sewing and weave ends inside the piece after assembly.

Panda Amigurumi Pattern

Make a charming handmade panda amigurumi with this detailed, photo-assisted crochet pattern. You will work with soft velvet and cotton blends to create a cuddly 16 cm toy with movable joints and a striped sweater. The pattern includes step-by-step rounds, assembly guidance, and finishing tips so you can follow along with confidence and create a polished, gift-ready toy.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Panda Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Fine/4ply yarn Katia Velvet Fine 50g/160m (100% polyester) - Color 200 (cream) - approx quantity as needed for head/body
  • 02
    Fine/4ply yarn Katia Velvet Fine 50g/160m (100% polyester) - Color 211 (black) - approx quantity for limbs, spots, details
  • 03
    Fine/4ply yarn YarnArt Baby Cotton 50g/165m (50% cotton, 50% acrylic) - Color 444 (dark green) - small quantity for sweater stripes
  • 04
    Fine/4ply yarn YarnArt Baby Cotton 50g/165m (50% cotton, 50% acrylic) - Color 439 (mint green) - small quantity for sweater stripes
  • 05
    DMC embroidery floss black and white for facial details (small amounts)
  • 06
    Buttons size 5mm (3 pcs) for sweater fastenings

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2mm
  • 02
    Polyester toy filling (fiberfill)
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Sewing pins
  • 05
    Eyes with a loop 6-7mm (2 pcs)
  • 06
    Wire for the frame (optional) diameter 0.9 mm - 20 cm or D1mm for frame
  • 07
    Round nose pliers (for wire frame)
  • 08
    Plastic joints size 25mm for hind legs (2 pcs)
  • 09
    Plastic joints size 15mm for forelegs (2 pcs)
  • 10
    Cotter pins fastening: Disks 25mm - 4 pcs
  • 11
    Cotter pins fastening: Disks 15mm - 4 pcs
  • 12
    T-shaped cotter pins 20*2 - 4 pcs
  • 13
    Blush or dry peach pastel for tinting
  • 14
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 15
    Stitch markers

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” Head :

Info :

Work with cream yarn. Stuff as you go.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

1sc, inc, (2sc, inc)*5, 1sc (24)

Round 5 :

(3sc, inc)*6 (30)

Round 6 :

2sc, inc, (4sc, inc)*5, 2sc (36)

Round 7 :

(5sc, inc)*6 (42)

Round 8 :

3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)

Round 9 :

(7sc, inc)*6 (54)

Round 10 :

4sc, inc, (8sc, inc)*5, 4sc (60)

Round 11 :

(9sc, inc)*6 (66)

Round 12-13 :

66sc (2 rounds)

Round 14 :

(21sc, inc)*3 (69)

Round 15-16 :

69sc (2 rounds)

Round 17 :

11sc, inc, (22sc, inc)*2, 11sc (72)

Round 18-19 :

72sc (2 rounds)

Round 20 :

(23sc, inc)*3 (75)

Round 21 :

75sc (75)

Round 22 :

12sc, inc, (24sc, inc)*2, 12sc (78)

Round 23-27 :

78sc (5 rounds)

Round 28 :

(11sc, dec)*6 (72)

Round 29 :

5sc, dec, (10sc, dec)*5, 5sc (66)

Round 30 :

(9sc, dec)*6 (60)

Round 31 :

4sc, dec, (8sc, dec)*5, 4sc (54)

Round 32 :

(7sc, dec)*6 (48)

Round 33 :

2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*7, 2sc (40)

Round 34 :

(3sc, dec)*8 (32)

Round 35 :

(2sc, dec)*8 (24)

Round 36 :

(1sc, dec)*8 (16)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, leaving the end for sewing pieces.

β€” Eye Spots (make 2) :

Info :

Work with black yarn. Ch6, start on the second chain from the hook.

Round 1 :

4sc, 3sc in the last chain, on the other side of the chain: 3sc, inc (12)

Round 2 :

inc, 3sc, 3inc, 3sc, 2inc (18)

Round 3 :

1sc, inc, 3sc, (1sc, inc)*3, 3sc, (1sc, inc)*2 (24)

Round 4 :

2sc, inc, 3sc, (2sc, inc)*3, 3sc, (2sc, inc)*2 (30)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, leaving the end for sewing pieces.

β€” Eye Attachment and Embroidery :

Infos :

Attach the eye spots to the head with sewing pins and sew. Using an embroidering floss (2 strands), embroider the eyebrows and mouth. Using an embroidering floss (full thread), embroider the nose (4-5 stitches). With sewing pins mark the place of sewing on the eyes.

Info :

Take the eye D6-7mm and thread the thread into the loop. Pass both threads into the needle and insert it into the points marked with sewing pins and exit it through the back of the head. Repeat the same with the second eye (NOTE! Exit the threads of the first and second eyes at one point behind). Lightly pull the threads and tie together in a knot. Hide the ends inside the head.

Info :

Using a white embroidering floss (full thread), embroider the whites of the eyes. Tint the cheeks with blush or peach-colored pastel.

β€” Ears (make 2) :

Info :

Work with black yarn. Do not stuff.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(2sc, inc)*4 (16)

Round 4-7 :

16sc (4 rounds)

Info :

Fold in half and crochet 8sc through both sides. Cut the yarn, fasten off, leaving the end for sewing pieces. Attach the ears to the head with sewing pins (in an arc, not a straight line) and sew.

β€” Forelegs (make 2) :

Info :

Work with black yarn. The marker of the beginning of the round passes behind the leg in the middle. If necessary, crochet extra stitches.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

(1sc, inc)*3 (9)

Round 3 :

(2sc, inc)*3 (12)

Round 4-6 :

12sc (3 rounds)

Round 7 :

6sc, inc, 5sc (13)

Round 8 :

13sc (13)

Round 9 :

6sc, inc, 6sc (14)

Round 10 :

14sc (14)

Round 11 :

7sc, inc, 6sc (15)

Round 12 :

7sc, inc, 7sc (16)

Round 13 :

16sc (16)

Info :

Begin to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff tightly only the lower part. At this stage, you need to make sure that the marker is located at the back of the leg in the middle.

Info :

Left foreleg - For plastic joints: Round 14: 11sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 3sc (16). Round 15: 11sc, 2sc on the chain, 3sc (16). For cotter pins: Rounds 14-15: 16sc (2 rounds).

Info :

Right foreleg - For plastic joints: Round 14: 3sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 11sc (16). Round 15: 3sc, 2sc on the chain, 11sc (16). For cotter pins: Rounds 14-15: 16sc (2 rounds).

Info :

Select the diameter of the fastening: fold the leg in half and select a disk / joint that occupies the entire internal space of the leg (the disk / joint D15mm suits me). When using a cotter pin, move 2 rounds down and from the marker: 4sc to the left (for the right foreleg) and 4sc to the right (for the left foreleg). Insert a disk with a cotter pin at the marked point/joint in the hole that was done. Continue to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff the upper part of the leg slightly.

Round 16 :

(2sc, dec)*4 (12)

Round 17 :

6dec (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn. Pull off the hole and hide the ends.

β€” Hind Legs (make 2) :

Info :

Work with black yarn. Ch5, start on the second chain from the hook.

Round 1 :

3sc, 4sc in the last chain, on the other side of the chain: 2sc, inc (11)

Round 2 :

inc, 2sc, 3sc inc, 2sc, 3sc inc, 2sc, 2inc (18)

Round 3 :

1sc, inc, 3sc, 3sc inc, 4sc, 3sc inc, 3sc, (1sc, inc)*2 (25)

Round 4 :

25sc (25)

Round 5 :

24sc - short round (you may have a different number of stitches). Move the marker. It should go behind the leg, in the center of the heel. Guideline - a straight line of the foundation chain. In the process align the marker by crocheting extra stitches.

Round 6 :

8sl st, 9sc, 8sl st (25)

Round 7 :

5sc, (1sc, dec)*5, 5sc (20)

Round 8 :

5sc, 5dec, 5sc (15)

Round 9 :

6sc, sc3tog, 6sc (13)

Round 10 :

6sc, inc, 6sc (14)

Round 11 :

14sc (14)

Round 12 :

7sc, inc, 6sc (15)

Round 13 :

15sc (15)

Round 14 :

7sc, inc, 7sc (16)

Round 15 :

(7sc, inc)*2 (18)

Round 16 :

(8sc, inc)*2 (20)

Round 17 :

20sc (20)

Info :

Begin to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff tightly only the lower part (foot). At this stage, you need to make sure that the marker is located at the back of the leg in the middle.

Info :

Left hind leg - Plastic joints: Round 18: 12sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 6sc (20). Round 19: 12sc, 2sc on the chain, 6sc (20). Cotter pins: Rounds 18-19: 20sc (2 rounds).

Info :

Right hind leg - Plastic joints: Round 18: 6sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 12sc (20). Round 19: 6sc, 2sc on the chain, 12sc (20). Cotter pins: Rounds 18-19: 20sc (2 rounds).

Info :

Select the diameter of the fastening: fold the leg in half and select a disk / joint that occupies the entire internal space of the leg (the disk / joint D25mm suits me). When using a cotter pin, move 2 rounds down and from the marker: 7sc to the left (for the right hind leg) and 7sc to the right (for the left hind leg). Insert a disk with a cotter pin at the marked point/joint in the hole that was done. Continue to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff the upper part of the leg slightly.

Round 20-21 :

20sc (2 rounds)

Round 22 :

(8sc, dec)*2 (18)

Round 23 :

(1sc, dec)*6 (12)

Round 24 :

6dec (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn. Pull off the hole and hide the ends.

β€” Body :

Info :

Start crocheting with cream yarn. The marker of the beginning of the round will be placed at the back in the middle. If necessary, crochet extra stitches.

Round 1 :

7sc in a MR (7)

Round 2 :

7inc (14)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*7 (21)

Round 4 :

1sc, inc, (2sc, inc)*6, 1sc (28)

Round 5 :

(3sc, inc)*7 (35)

Round 6 :

2sc, inc, (4sc, inc)*6, 2sc (42)

Round 7 :

(5sc, inc)*7 (49)

Round 8 :

3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*6, 3sc (56)

Round 9-10 :

56sc (2 rounds)

Info :

In round 11 crochet the holes for the hind legs with plastic joints and determine the place of attachment of the cotter pins.

Info :

For plastic joints: Round 11: 12sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 28sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 12sc (56). Round 12: 12sc, 2sc on the chain, 28sc, 2sc on the chain, 12sc (56).

Info :

For cotter pins: Round 11: 56sc (mark the space between stitches 13 and 14 and the space between stitches 43 and 44 with a thread in a contrasting color for convenience) (56). Round 12: 56sc (56).

Round 13-16 :

56sc (4 rounds)

Round 17 :

13sc, dec, 26sc, dec, 13sc (54)

Round 18 :

54sc (54)

Info :

Insert the cotter pins / joints of the hind legs into the marked points / crocheted holes of ch2 in the body and secure/snap.

Round 19 :

18sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 18sc (50)

Round 20 :

50sc (50)

Round 21 :

22sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 22sc (48)

Round 22 :

7sc, dec, (14sc, dec)*2, 7sc (45)

Info :

Change color to black, cut the cream yarn. In round 23 crochet the holes for the forelegs with plastic joints and determine the place of fastening of the cotter pins.

Info :

For plastic joints: Round 23: 10sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 21sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 10sc (45). Round 24: 10sc, 2sc on the chain, 1sc, dec, 13sc, dec, 3sc, 2sc on the chain, 8sc, dec (42).

Info :

For cotter pins: Round 23: 45sc (45)(mark the space between stitches 11 and 12 and the space between stitches 34 and 35 with a thread in a contrasting color). Round 24: (13sc, dec)*3 (42).

Round 25-26 :

42sc (2 rounds)

Round 27 :

6sc, dec, (12sc, dec)*2, 6sc (39)

Round 28 :

(11sc, dec)*2 (36)

Info :

Insert the cotter pins / joints of the forelegs into the marked points / crocheted holes of ch2 in the body and secure/snap.

Info :

Stuff the body gradually with fiberfill.

Round 29 :

2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*5, 2sc (30)

Round 30 :

(3sc, dec)*6 (24)

Round 31 :

(2sc, dec)*6 (18)

Round 32 :

(7sc, dec)*2 (16)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off and hide the ends inside. If desired, you can make a wire frame. Take a D1mm wire and fold it in half, as shown in the photo. Wrap the junction of the two ends with insulating tape and insert the frame with one half into the body, and the other half to the head. Sew the head to the body.

β€” Tail :

Info :

Crochet with cream yarn.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

12sc (12)

Round 4 :

(1sc, dec)*4 (8)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, leaving the end for sewing pieces. Attach the tail to the back with sewing pins (see photo) and sew. In the process slightly stuff the tail with fiberfill.

β€” Sweater :

Info :

Start crocheting with mint green yarn in rows. Try on the sweater in the process. If it is large or small, change the hook to a size smaller or larger. Ch37, from the second chain on the hook.

Row 1 :

36sc (36), t-ch, turn

Row 2 :

4sc, inc, (8sc, inc)*3, 4sc (40), t-ch, turn

Info :

Change color to dark green.

Row 3 :

BLO: (6sc, 3sc inc)*2, 6sc, inc, 5sc, (3sc inc, 6sc)*2 (49) t-ch, turn

Row 4 :

3sc, inc, 41sc, inc, 3sc (51), t-ch, turn

Info :

Change color to mint green.

Row 5 :

BLO: (8sc, 3sc inc)*2, 15sc, (3sc inc, 8sc)*2 (59), t-ch, turn

Row 6 :

3sc, inc, 51sc, inc, 3sc (61)

Info :

Change color to dark green.

Row 7 :

BLO: (10sc, 3sc inc)*2, 17sc, (3sc inc, 10sc)*2 (69), t-ch, turn

Row 8 :

11sc, ch6, skip 14sc, 9sc, inc, 9sc, ch6, skip 14sc, 11sc (54), t-ch, turn

Info :

Change color to mint green.

Row 9 :

BLO: 11sc, (3sc, inc, 2sc) on the chain, 20sc, (2sc, inc, 3sc) on the chain, 11sc (56), t-ch, turn

Row 10 :

56sc (56)

Info :

Do not cut the yarn. Make an edging on the side of the sweater and crochet buttons loops. Work with mint green yarn: 1sc, ch4 (button loop), 1sc, dark green yarn - 2sc, etc. repeat to the neckline (see photo). Cut the yarn and hide the ends. Sew buttons on the opposite side of the sweater.

β€” Sleeves :

Info :

Crochet the sleeves (you can adjust the length of the sleeve by crocheting more or less rounds). Attach the dark green yarn to the first unused front loop of row 7 (hold the sweater with the front side towards you) and work:

Sleeve Row 1 :

14sc, 6sc on the chain of row 8 (20)

Sleeve Row 2 :

Change color to mint green. BLO: 20sc (20)

Sleeve Row 3 :

20sc (20)

Sleeve Row 4 :

Change color to dark green. BLO: 20sc (20)

Sleeve Row 5 :

20sc (20)

Sleeve Row 6 :

Change color to mint green. BLO: 20sc (20)

Sleeve Row 7 :

20sc (20)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off and weave in the ends. Crochet the second sleeve in the same way.

Info :

Put the sweater on the panda and, moving from it 0.5-1 cm down, embroider the navel with a cross stitch with a black embroidering floss (2 strands).

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the eye spots to the head with sewing pins, sew them and insert safety eyes through the loops, securing threads inside the head as described.
  • Insert plastic joints or cotter pin assemblies into foreleg and hind leg openings and snap into the crocheted holes in the body, test fit before final stuffing and closing.
  • Sew ears to the head in an arc shape using the long tails left for sewing, then attach the head to the body by sewing the neck edge securely.
  • Slightly stuff the tail and sew it to the back of the body using sewing pins for positioning; embroider facial features (nose, mouth, eyebrows) with embroidery floss as indicated.
  • Dress the panda in the crocheted sweater, add button loops and sew buttons on the opposite side; embroider the navel with a cross stitch 0.5-1 cm below the sweater edge.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers to mark the beginning of each round and to mark spaces for joints and eyes before inserting hardware for accurate assembly.
  • πŸ’‘Stuff firmly only where indicated (feet, lower leg, and head areas) and leave other areas lightly stuffed to retain natural shaping.
  • πŸ’‘When using plastic joints or cotter pins, select the disk/joint size that fits the internal leg space and test-fit before final closing to avoid damage.
  • πŸ’‘Embroider facial details before final sewing of the head where possible so threads can be hidden inside the head for a clean finish.
  • πŸ’‘If making the optional wire frame, wrap the junction well with insulating tape and insert halves carefully to avoid poking through the crochet fabric.

This adorable panda amigurumi is designed to be both huggable and poseable with movable joints and a tiny striped sweater. It combines soft velvet yarn and baby cotton for a cozy texture and charming finish. Enjoy the step-by-step photos and clear rounds as you bring this little friend to life. 🧢 Sew with love and smile as your panda takes shape! 😊

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The size of the finished toy when using the indicated materials is about 16 cm.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will affect the final size; choose an appropriate hook for your yarn to keep gauge consistent.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of stitches like sc, inc, dec and working in the round is recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crafters will take multiple sessions; this is a multi-day project and typically takes between 12-15 hours depending on experience and assembly time.