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Panda Amigurumi Pattern

Panda Amigurumi Pattern
4.2★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.3K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Panda Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern guides you through crocheting a charming panda amigurumi, complete with embroidered face details and a removable striped sweater. The design includes separate pieces for head, body, forelegs, hind legs, ears, tail and a cozy sweater. Detailed round-by-round instructions and attachment tips make assembly straightforward and secure.

Panda Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Techniques include working in rounds, using plastic joints or cotter pins for movable limbs, and embroidery for facial features. The finished toy measures about 16 cm using the recommended materials.

Why You'll Love This Panda Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines soft velvet textures with classic amigurumi shaping to create a cuddly, characterful panda. I enjoy the balance between structured assembly (with optional joints) and playful finishing details like the embroidered face and tiny sweater. The pattern gives clear round-by-round instructions so I can focus on stitching without guesswork. I also appreciate that the sweater and small accessories let me personalize each panda for special gifts. Working through the finishing steps—sewing pieces together and adding expression—always feels rewarding to me.

Panda Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Panda Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Panda Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Panda Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love changing colors for the sweater to match seasons; try pastel stripes for a baby-safe look or bright contrasting stripes for a playful version.

I sometimes change the yarn weight and hook size to create a mini keychain version or a larger cuddle-size panda—adjust joints accordingly.

I often replace safety eyes with embroidered eyes for a fully child-safe toy; this also gives a sweet, handmade expression.

I like adding tiny accessories like a crocheted scarf, hat, or tiny backpack to personalize each panda as a gift.

If you want posable limbs, use a thicker D1mm wire frame inside the body and head, wrapping the junction securely with insulating tape to prevent poking.

You can swap the black velvet yarn for a deep brown to make a cinnamon panda or use variegated yarn for textured spots.

Try stitching different mouth shapes and eyebrow angles to create sleepy, happy, or mischievous expressions—experiment on scrap before embroidering the final piece.

I sometimes add light blush to the cheeks with pastel chalks for a gentle, finished effect—seal lightly if necessary to reduce transfer.

For a more durable toy, opt for cotter pins and disks rather than plastic snap joints; they hold up well with play over time.

To make a matching sibling set, adjust hook and yarn weight proportionally and reuse the same sweater pattern with different color combos for a family of pandas.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers when shaping or placing joints can lead to misaligned pieces; use markers and mark spaces for cotter pins or plastic joints to ensure correct placement. ✗ Overstuffing limbs or body makes sewing and shaping difficult and can distort proportions; stuff gradually, firmer at the lower parts and less at the top, checking shape constantly. ✗ Not counting stitches during increases and decreases will result in incorrect stitch counts; count every round and mark repeats to keep the pattern symmetrical. ✗ Using the wrong hook size or inconsistent tension changes the finished toy size and fit of parts; use the recommended 2mm hook and maintain even tension, changing hook only if necessary to match gauge.

Panda Amigurumi Pattern

Create a sweet, huggable panda amigurumi with this fully detailed crochet pattern. You will learn how to make a plush head, body, limbs, tail and a striped sweater with step-by-step rounds. The pattern includes clear assembly guidance so you can bring your panda to life with embroidered features and securely fastened joints. Perfect as a handmade gift or a charming addition to your collection.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Panda Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Fine/4ply yarn Katia Velvet Fine 50g/160m (100% polyester) - Color 200 (cream) - approx. as needed
  • 02
    Fine/4ply yarn Katia Velvet Fine 50g/160m (100% polyester) - Color 211 (black) - approx. as needed
  • 03
    Fine/4ply yarn YarnArt Baby Cotton 50g/165m (50% cotton, 50% acrylic) - Color 444 (dark green) - approx. as needed
  • 04
    Fine/4ply yarn YarnArt Baby Cotton 50g/165m (50% cotton, 50% acrylic) - Color 439 (mint green) - approx. as needed
  • 05
    DMC embroidering floss in black and white colors for facial details
  • 06
    Polyester toy filling (fiberfill) for stuffing
  • 07
    Buttons size 5mm (3 pcs) for sweater closure

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2mm
  • 02
    Scissors
  • 03
    Sewing pins
  • 04
    Eyes with a loop 6-7mm (2 pcs)
  • 05
    Polyester toy filling (fiberfill)
  • 06
    Plastic joints size 25mm - for the hind legs (2 pcs)
  • 07
    Plastic joints size 15mm - for the forelegs (2 pcs)
  • 08
    Cotter pins fastening: Disks 25mm - 4 pcs, Disks 15mm - 4 pcs, T-shaped cotter pins 20*2 - 4 pcs
  • 09
    Round nose pliers
  • 10
    Wire for the frame (optional) diameter 0.9 mm - 20 cm or D1mm wire for internal frame
  • 11
    DMC embroidering floss (black and white)
  • 12
    Buttons size 5mm (3 pcs)
  • 13
    Insulating tape (for wrapping wire junction)
  • 14
    Yarn needle for sewing pieces and weaving in ends
  • 15
    Stitch markers

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— Notes :

Info :

A very common term in crocheting is the extra stitch. You just need to crochet another 1sc at the end of the round and shift the marker by one stitch. The second stitch becomes the first and the first becomes the last. This stitch is not included in crocheting.

Infos :

Abbreviations used: MR - magic ring. sc - single crochet. hdc - half double crochet. hdcinc - half double crochet increase (2hdc in one stitch). hdc2tog - crochet 2 hdc together. dc - double crochet. dcinc - double crochet increase (2dc in one stitch). Bobble st - crochet unfinished dc stitches in one stitch of the previous round with a common top. inc - increase (2 sc in one stitch). dec - decrease (2 sc together). 3sc inc - crochet 3 sc in one stitch. sc3tog - crochet 3 sc together. ch - chain. t-ch - turning chain. sl st - slip stitch. BLO - back loops only. (...) - number in brackets means a number of stitches in a round. (...)*N - repeat instruction in brackets N times.

— Head :

Info :

Work with cream yarn. Stuff as you go.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

1sc, inc, (2sc, inc)*5, 1sc (24)

Round 5 :

(3sc, inc)*6 (30)

Round 6 :

2sc, inc, (4sc, inc)*5, 2sc (36)

Round 7 :

(5sc, inc)*6 (42)

Round 8 :

3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)

Round 9 :

(7sc, inc)*6 (54)

Round 10 :

4sc, inc, (8sc, inc)*5, 4sc (60)

Round 11 :

(9sc, inc)*6 (66)

Round 12-13 :

66sc (2 rounds)

Round 14 :

(21sc, inc)*3 (69)

Round 15-16 :

69sc (2 rounds)

Round 17 :

11sc, inc, (22sc, inc)*2, 11sc (72)

Round 18-19 :

72sc (2 rounds)

Round 20 :

(23sc, inc)*3 (75)

Round 21 :

75sc (75)

Round 22 :

12sc, inc, (24sc, inc)*2, 12sc (78)

Round 23-27 :

78sc (5 rounds)

Round 28 :

(11sc, dec)*6 (72)

Round 29 :

5sc, dec, (10sc, dec)*5, 5sc (66)

Round 30 :

(9sc, dec)*6 (60)

Round 31 :

4sc, dec, (8sc, dec)*5, 4sc (54)

Round 32 :

(7sc, dec)*6 (48)

Round 33 :

2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*7, 2sc (40)

Round 34 :

(3sc, dec)*8 (32)

Round 35 :

(2sc, dec)*8 (24)

Round 36 :

(1sc, dec)*8 (16)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, leaving the end for sewing pieces.

— Eye Spots (make 2) :

Info :

Work with black yarn. Ch6, start on the second chain from the hook:

Round 1 :

4sc, 3sc in the last chain, on the other side of the chain: 3sc, inc (12)

Round 2 :

inc, 3sc, 3inc, 3sc, 2inc (18)

Round 3 :

1sc, inc, 3sc, (1sc, inc)*3, 3sc, (1sc, inc)*2 (24)

Round 4 :

2sc, inc, 3sc, (2sc, inc)*3, 3sc, (2sc, inc)*2 (30)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, leaving the end for sewing pieces.

Infos :

Attach the eye spots to the head with sewing pins and sew. Using an embroidering floss (2 strands), embroider the eyebrows and mouth. Using an embroidering floss (full thread), embroider the nose (4-5 stitches). With sewing pins mark the place of sewing on the eyes.

Info :

Take the eye D6-7mm and thread the thread into the loop. Pass both threads into the needle and insert it into the points marked with sewing pins and exit it through the back of the head. Repeat the same with the second eye (NOTE! Exit the threads of the first and second eyes at one point behind). Lightly pull the threads and tie together in a knot. Hide the ends inside the head.

Info :

Using a white embroidering floss (full thread), embroider the whites of the eyes. Tint the cheeks with blush or peach-colored pastel.

— Ears (make 2) :

Info :

Work with black yarn. Do not stuff.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(2sc, inc)*4 (16)

Round 4-7 :

16sc (4 rounds)

Infos :

Fold in half and crochet 8sc through both sides. Cut the yarn, fasten off, leaving the end for sewing pieces. Attach the ears to the head with sewing pins (in an arc, not a straight line) and sew.

— Forelegs (make 2) :

Info :

Work with black yarn. The marker of the beginning of the round passes behind the leg in the middle. If necessary, crochet extra stitches.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

(1sc, inc)*3 (9)

Round 3 :

(2sc, inc)*3 (12)

Round 4-6 :

12sc (3 rounds)

Round 7 :

6sc, inc, 5sc (13)

Round 8 :

13sc (13)

Round 9 :

6sc, inc, 6sc (14)

Round 10 :

14sc (14)

Round 11 :

7sc, inc, 6sc (15)

Round 12 :

7sc, inc, 7sc (16)

Round 13 :

16sc (16)

Info :

Begin to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff tightly only the lower part. At this stage, you need to make sure that the marker is located at the back of the leg in the middle.

Left foreleg. (For plastic joints) :

11sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 3sc (16)

Left foreleg. :

11sc, 2sc on the chain, 3sc (16)

Left foreleg. (For cotter pins) :

14-15. 16sc (2 rounds)

Right foreleg. (For plastic joints) :

14. 3sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 11sc (16)

Right foreleg. :

15. 3sc, 2sc on the chain, 11sc (16)

Right foreleg. (For cotter pins) :

14-15. 16sc (2 rounds)

Info :

Select the diameter of the fastening: fold the leg in half and select a disk / joint that occupies the entire internal space of the leg (the disk / joint D15mm suits me). When using a cotter pin, move 2 rounds down and from the marker 4sc to the left (for the right foreleg) or 4sc to the right (for the left foreleg). Insert a disk with a cotter pin at the marked point/joint in the hole that was done. Continue to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff the upper part of the leg slightly.

Rounds 16 :

(2sc, dec)*4 (12)

Round 17 :

6dec (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn. Pull off the hole and hide the ends.

— Hind Legs (make 2) :

Info :

Work with black yarn. Ch5, start on the second chain from the hook:

Round 1 :

3sc, 4sc in the last chain, on the other side of the chain: 2sc, inc (11)

Round 2 :

inc, 2sc, 3sc inc, 2sc, 3sc inc, 2sc, 2inc (18)

Round 3 :

1sc, inc, 3sc, 3sc inc, 4sc, 3sc inc, 3sc, (1sc, inc)*2 (25)

Round 4 :

25sc (25)

Round 5 :

24sc - short round (you may have a different number of stitches). Move the marker. It should go behind the leg, in the center of the heel. Guideline - a straight line of the foundation chain. In the process align the marker by crocheting extra stitches.

Round 6 :

8sl st, 9sc, 8sl st (25)

Round 7 :

5sc, (1sc, dec)*5, 5sc (20)

Round 8 :

5sc, 5dec, 5sc (15)

Round 9 :

6sc, sc3tog, 6sc (13)

Round 10 :

6sc, inc, 6sc (14)

Round 11 :

14sc (14)

Round 12 :

7sc, inc, 6sc (15)

Round 13 :

15sc (15)

Round 14 :

7sc, inc, 7sc (16)

Round 15 :

(7sc, inc)*2 (18)

Round 16 :

(8sc, inc)*2 (20)

Round 17 :

20sc (20)

Info :

Begin to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff tightly only the lower part (foot). Make sure the marker is located at the back of the leg in the middle.

Left hind leg. (Plastic joints) :

18. 12sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 6sc (20)

Left hind leg. :

19. 12sc, 2sc on the chain, 6sc (20)

Left hind leg. (For cotter pins) :

18-19. 20sc (2 rounds)

Right hind leg. (Plastic joints) :

18. 6sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 12sc (20)

Right hind leg. :

19. 6sc, 2sc on the chain, 12sc (20)

Right hind leg. (For cotter pins) :

18-19. 20sc (2 rounds)

Info :

Select the diameter of the fastening: fold the leg in half and select a disk/joint that occupies the entire internal space of the leg (the disk/joint D25mm suits me). When using a cotter pin, move 2 rounds down and from the marker 7sc to the left (for the right hind leg) or 7sc to the right (for the left hind leg). Insert a disk with a cotter pin at the marked point/joint in the hole. Continue to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff the upper part of the leg slightly.

Round 20-21 :

20sc (2 rounds)

Round 22 :

(8sc, dec)*2 (18)

Round 23 :

(1sc, dec)*6 (12)

Round 24 :

6dec (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn. Pull off the hole and hide the ends.

— Body :

Info :

Start crocheting with cream yarn. The marker of the beginning of the round will be placed at the back in the middle. If necessary, crochet extra stitches.

Round 1 :

7sc in a MR (7)

Round 2 :

7inc (14)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*7 (21)

Round 4 :

1sc, inc, (2sc, inc)*6, 1sc (28)

Round 5 :

(3sc, inc)*7 (35)

Round 6 :

2sc, inc, (4sc, inc)*6, 2sc (42)

Round 7 :

(5sc, inc)*7 (49)

Round 8 :

3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*6, 3sc (56)

Round 9-10 :

56sc (2 rounds)

Info :

In round 11 crochet the holes for the hind legs with plastic joints and determine the place of attachment of the cotter pins.

For plastic joints: Round 11 :

12sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 28sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 12sc (56)

For plastic joints: Round 12 :

12sc, 2sc on the chain, 28sc, 2sc on the chain, 12sc (56)

For cotter pins: Round 11 :

56sc (mark the space between stitches 13 and 14 and the space between stitches 43 and 44 with a thread in a contrasting color for convenience) (56)

For cotter pins: Round 12 :

56sc (56)

Round 13-16 :

56sc (4 rounds)

Round 17 :

13sc, dec, 26sc, dec, 13sc (54)

Round 18 :

54sc (54)

Info :

Insert the cotter pins / joints of the hind legs into the marked points / crocheted holes of ch2 in the body and secure/snap.

Round 19 :

18sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 18sc (50)

Round 20 :

50sc (50)

Round 21 :

22sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 22sc (48)

Round 22 :

7sc, dec, (14sc, dec)*2, 7sc (45)

Info :

Change color to black, cut the cream yarn. In round 23 crochet the holes for the forelegs with plastic joints and determine the place of fastening of the cotter pins.

For plastic joints: Round 23 :

10sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 21sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 10sc (45)

For plastic joints: Round 24 :

10sc, 2sc on the chain, 1sc, dec, 13sc, dec, 3sc, 2sc on the chain, 8sc, dec (42)

For cotter pins: Round 23 :

45sc (mark the space between stitches 11 and 12 and the space between stitches 34 and 35 with a thread in a contrasting color) (45)

For cotter pins: Round 24 :

(13sc, dec)*3 (42)

Round 25-26 :

42sc (2 rounds)

Round 27 :

6sc, dec, (12sc, dec)*2, 6sc (39)

Round 28 :

(11sc, dec)*2 (36)

Info :

Insert the cotter pins / joints of the forelegs into the marked points / crocheted holes of ch2 in the body and secure/snap. Stuff the body gradually with fiberfill.

Round 29 :

2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*5, 2sc (30)

Round 30 :

(3sc, dec)*6 (24)

Round 31 :

(2sc, dec)*6 (18)

Round 32 :

(7sc, dec)*2 (16)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off and hide the ends inside. If desired, you can make a wire frame. Take a D1mm wire and fold it in half, wrap the junction of the two ends with insulating tape and insert the frame with one half into the body, and the other half to the head. Sew the head to the body.

— Tail :

Info :

Crochet with cream yarn.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

12sc (12)

Round 4 :

(1sc, dec)*4 (8)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, leaving the end for sewing pieces. Attach the tail to the back with sewing pins (see photo) and sew. In the process slightly stuff the tail with fiberfill.

— Sweater :

Info :

Start crocheting with mint green yarn in rows. Try on the sweater in the process. If it is large or small, change the hook to a size smaller or larger.

Instruction :

Ch37, from the second chain on the hook:

Row 1 :

36sc (36), t-ch, turn

Row 2 :

4sc, inc, (8sc, inc)*3, 4sc (40), t-ch, turn

Info :

Change color to dark green

Row 3 :

BLO: (6sc, 3sc inc)*2, 6sc, inc, 5sc, (3sc inc, 6sc)*2 (49) t-ch, turn

Row 4 :

3sc, inc, 41sc, inc, 3sc (51), t-ch, turn

Info :

Change color to mint green

Row 5 :

BLO: (8sc, 3sc inc)*2, 15sc, (3sc inc, 8sc)*2 (59), t-ch, turn

Row 6 :

3sc, inc, 51sc, inc, 3sc (61)

Info :

Change color to dark green

Row 7 :

BLO: (10sc, 3sc inc)*2, 17sc, (3sc inc, 10sc)*2 (69), t-ch, turn

Row 8 :

11sc, ch6, skip 14sc, 9sc, inc, 9sc, ch6, skip 14sc, 11sc (54), t-ch, turn

Info :

Change color to mint green

Row 9 :

BLO: 11sc, (3sc, inc, 2sc) on the chain, 20sc, (2sc, inc, 3sc) on the chain, 11sc (56), t-ch, turn

Row 10 :

56sc (56)

Info :

Do not cut the yarn. Make an edging on the side of the sweater and crochet buttons loops. Work with mint green yarn: 1sc, ch4 (button loop), 1sc, dark green yarn - 2sc, etc. repeat to the neckline (see photo). Cut the yarn and hide the ends. Sew buttons on the opposite side of the sweater.

— Sleeves :

Info :

The right side of the sweater is where we have unused front loops of the odd rows. Crochet the sleeves (you can adjust the length of the sleeve by crocheting more or less rounds). Attach the dark green yarn to the first unused front loop of row 7 (hold the sweater with the front side towards you) and work:

Row 1 :

14sc, 6sc on the chain of row 8 (20)

Instruction :

Change color to mint green

Row 2 :

BLO: 20sc (20)

Row 3 :

20sc (20)

Instruction :

Change color to dark green

Row 4 :

BLO: 20sc (20)

Row 5 :

20sc (20)

Instruction :

Change color to mint green

Row 6 :

BLO: 20sc (20)

Row 7 :

20sc (20)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off and weave in the ends. Crochet the second sleeve in the same way.

Info :

Put the sweater on the panda and, moving from it 0.5-1 cm down, embroider the navel with a cross stitch with a black embroidering floss (2 strands).

Info :

Congratulations! Our cute panda is ready ;)

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the eye spots to the head with sewing pins and sew them securely in place, then insert the safety eyes through the marked points, bring threads out the back, tighten and knot, and hide ends inside the head.
  • Insert plastic joints or cotter pin disks into the forelegs and hind legs at the marked points, then insert the joint halves into the corresponding crocheted holes in the body and snap/secure them before stuffing the body fully.
  • Sew the head to the body using the long thread left when finishing the head; if using an internal wire frame, insert one half into the body and the other to the head and sew the head in place for extra stability.
  • Fold and join ears by crocheting through both sides (8sc) and attach to the head in an arc using sewing pins, then sew. Attach tail to the back with sewing pins and sew while slightly stuffing.
  • Put the sweater on and sew buttons on the opposite side of the neckline; embroider the navel with a cross stitch using black embroidery floss (2 strands) for finishing detail.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of rounds and to mark the positions for joints and eye placement for precise assembly.
  • 💡Stuff gradually and check the shape frequently; stuff the lower parts firmer and upper parts less to maintain natural proportions.
  • 💡Hide and secure all ends inside the toy after assembly and weave in ends to prevent unraveling and to give a neat finish.

This adorable panda amigurumi is a delightful project that brings soft textures and sweet expression together in one cuddly toy. Whether you make it for a child, a friend, or to display on a shelf, it carries handmade charm and personality. Enjoy stitching every round and personalizing the sweater or face for your perfect little companion. 🐼🧶

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The size of the finished toy when using the indicated materials is about 16 cm.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will change the final size and may require adjusting hook size and joint diameters. Use a matching hook to keep stitch density.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate; basic knowledge of single crochet, increases, decreases and working in rounds is recommended for best results.

How are the limbs attached to make them movable?

The pattern provides instructions for either plastic joints (specific holes and ch2 placement) or cotter pin fastenings (use disks and cotter pins); choose based on your preference and follow the marked rounds for placement.

How do I attach the safety eyes securely?

Thread the safety eye loop with the thread, pass both threads into a needle and through the marked points, exit at a single rear point for both eyes, pull and knot lightly, then hide the ends inside the head.