Make a charming felt teacup ornament featuring a sleepy mouse, tiny teddy, pillow, and quilt — a perfect holiday keepsake. This pattern blends simple hand sewing, embroidery, and beading to create a detailed, heirloom-style ornament you can customize. Follow step-by-step guides for preparing stabilizer, embroidering panels, assembling the cup, and finishing with a hanging loop. Ideal for makers who enjoy slow, precise handcrafting and pretty embellishments.
Progress Tracker
0% Complete
— Supplies :
Info :
9 x 12 inch (23 x 30.5 cm) sheet of wool or wool-blend felt in teacup color, plus four 4 x 5 inch (10 x 13 cm) colors for mouse, pillow, quilt, and Teddy. 8 x 5 inch (20 x 13 cm) flat piece of Pellon Peltex 70 Peltex (Peltex 71F also works). Matching and contrasting DMC flosses. Two 6-inch cotton pipe cleaners. 4 mm or 5 mm sequins, optional 6-8 mm sequins. Size 11/0 seed beads. Polyester or wool stuffing. Gold or silver twisted pearl floss for hanging loop. Gold/silver/white sewing threads. Pink colored pencil, Tacky Glue and Fabri-Tac. Sulky Printable Stick 'n Stitch sheets and a printer.
— Get started :
Round 1 :
Please review this helpful resource page: mmmcrafts.blogspot.com/p/twas-night-ornament-series.html It’s chock-full of information, links, and tips!
Round 2 :
Plan your colors: The teacup looks great in pastels, cream, or white with nicely contrasting embroidery. White, gray, or tan works well for the mouse — whichever color shows up best against the pillow/quilt color you choose. Repeating embroidery colors between the parts always looks nice, for instance if the teacup has a red design, use a touch of red on the quilt or pillow.
Round 3 :
IMPORTANT: Allow a day to preshrink your wool or wool-blend felt before beginning, and test that your sequins/beads are OK to get wet. Soak the wool/wool-blend felts separately in cold water for a few minutes just until saturated. Some wool felts resist — roll them a bit and get them at least pretty wet. Keep colors separated.
Round 4 :
Print all three pattern pages at actual size (no scaling) on regular paper. You may need to turn off the ‘fit to page’ option. Measure the bold lines on the printed sheets. If all is well, keep those sheets handy for reference. Print Pattern Sheets 1 and 2 on Sulky Stick ‘n Stitch (not 3) at the correct size.
Round 5 :
Trace the year on the stabilizer (optional): Use PATTERN SHEET 3 and a fine tip permanent pen or sharp pencil to trace the desired year onto the FOOT BOTTOM stabilizer. A light table or daytime window works well for tracing.
— Apply the stabilizer and embroider :
Round 6 :
Rough cut (not on outlines) the PILLOW FRONT and BACK away from the stabilizer sheet. Peel the paper backing off and adhere the stabilizer smoothly to pre-shrunk wool felt. DO NOT TRIM AROUND THE PRINTED OUTLINES YET.
Round 7 :
4 strands* of contrasting floss + backstitch: Use an embroidery needle (size 5 works) and four strands of floss to sew the five bolder lines shown on the pillow markings. Sew backstitches exactly on the lines, stopping short of the edges. Pull stitches snug but not so tight to wrinkle the stabilizer. (*Strip away 2 strands from 6-strand floss to use 4 strands.)
Round 8 :
2 strands of contrasting floss + backstitch: Embroider the remaining thinner lines with only 2 strands. You can use the same color as the bolder lines or a different one.
Round 9 :
Use small sharp scissors to carefully cut out the PILLOW FRONT and PILLOW BACK on the outlines. Set the back aside for later and follow steps to soak the front.
Round 10 :
Now to soak away the stabilizer: Place the embroidered piece face down in a bowl of cool water. Leave it for about twenty minutes. Take it out and hold face up on your palm and gently shower off remaining stabilizer with cold water. Don’t pull or stretch the felt. Let it soak more if stubborn. Never rub or pick it off.
Round 11 :
Place the wet piece face up on a dry folded towel. Let it air dry on the towel completely while you work on the other ones. OK, first piece is done!
Round 12 :
Rough cut the rest of the pattern pieces from Pattern Sheets 1 and 2. Adhere the Peltex labeled pieces on Pellon 70 Peltex ultrafirm stabilizer (or 71F) and set aside. For the rest, adhere them to your chosen colors of wool felt as shown, unless you'd like a contrasting color for the HANDLE and FOOT pieces.
Round 13 :
4 strands of contrasting floss + running stitch: Embroider the dashed line on all eight panels of the OUTER CUP with 4 strands as shown (dashed decorative lines).
Round 14 :
3 strands of contrasting floss + backstitch: Embroider the sprigs on all seven panels (the panel for the cup handle doesn’t have one). Use a single stitch for the littlest branches. Optionally use a different color for the top branches.
Round 15 :
Seed beads + sequins + metallic sewing thread: Using 4 mm or 5 mm sequins, sew a sequin/seed bead combo on each circle as shown. Optional: use a 6-8 mm sequin for the ‘flower’ at top of each sprig, or layer two sizes.
Round 16 :
4 strands of contrasting floss + French knots + 5 mm clear or translucent sequins: Attach sequins by coming up through them at the dots and forming a French knot to secure, or substitute seed beads for knots.
Round 17 :
3 & 1 strand(s) of black floss + backstitch: Embroider the sleepy little eyes on the MOUSE FRONT and MOUSE BACK using 3 strands for the eyes and 1 strand for the eyelashes. Use very small stitches.
Round 18 :
3 strands of black floss + French knots: Make knots on the dots for TEDDY BEAR eyes (tiny French knots).
Round 19 :
2 strands of contrasting floss + single stitches: Embroider the tiny nose and mouth on the Teddy with three or four horizontal stitches for the nose and two single stitches for the mouth.
Round 20 :
Carefully cut around the outlines of all embroidered felt pattern pieces shown, but do not soak them in water yet. Set aside all the unembroidered pieces to cut out later. Trim away the legs if you plan to glue the mouse in place permanently.
Round 21 :
Grab the Peltex with pattern pieces stuck to it that you set aside earlier. Carefully cut out all the pieces around the outlines. Peel off the Sulky. You’ll use a few pieces in the next steps, and some you’ll set aside for later.
Round 22 :
Add a thin coat of Fabri-Tac on the Peltex (not the felt), glue a PELTEX HANDLE to the wrong side of both felt CUP HANDLES. The straight edges of felt and Peltex should be flush.
Round 23 :
Use Fabri-Tac to glue the PELTEX FOOT centered on the wrong side of the embroidered felt CUP FOOT, as shown.
Round 24 :
Flip the OUTER CUP over to the wrong side and use Fabri-Tac to securely glue a PELTEX BOTTOM BRACE to the exact center as shown. Make small marks with permanent ink at each cut end to help you find center while gluing. Let it dry.
Round 25 :
Now soak: After the glue is dry, put all the embroidered pieces in plenty of water to soak. Separate brights/reds/darks from light colors. When rinsing, be sure the Sulky is gone from under the sequins. Lay the pieces face up on a towel to air dry like you did for the PILLOW.
Round 26 :
When dry, use small, sharp scissors to carefully cut out all the embroidered pieces and the embroidered Peltex pieces. But do not soak them again after cutting out — you’ll glue a few things first.
Round 27 :
Use Fabri-Tac to glue the PELTEX BOTTOM BRACE inside the bowl of the lining as shown. Make sure it’s centered properly with points aligned with seams. Press firmly. Let it dry.
Round 28 :
Prepare the other pieces while embroidered pieces dry: Carefully cut out the rest of the unembroidered wool felt pieces and gently peel off the Sulky from pieces that were printed on it.
Round 29 :
3 strands of matching floss + whipstitch: Use a minimal seam allowance (about 2 mm) to sew the felt INNER CUP panels together, keeping visible knots/tails on the outside of the bowl so they’ll be hidden. Bring two panels right sides together and sew from rim to center. Repeat until all seams sewn and it resembles a floppy bowl.
Round 30 :
Need a mouse tether? If not, skip this step. Use an embroidery needle to pull 9 inches (23 cm) of knotted pink embroidery floss (all 6 strands) through a 5-8 mm sequin, then through the wrong side of the INNER CUP. Pull knot and sequin snug to felt; that creates the tether/long tail option.
Round 31 :
Doubled white sewing thread + whipstitch: Sew the PELTEX CUP LINING into a bowl shape using the same method as the INNER CUP. Peltex is firmer than felt so a sharp needle helps. This Peltex bowl will be hidden between layers of felt.
Round 32 :
Use Fabri-Tac to securely glue a PELTEX BOTTOM BRACE inside the Peltex lining as shown and let dry. Make sure it is centered and points aligned.
Round 33 :
Use Fabri-Tac to glue the Peltex handles to the wrong sides of the felt handles (if not already done), aligning straight edges and letting dry. Handles will end up offset when attached.
Round 34 :
Use Fabri-Tac to glue the Peltex cup lining into the OUTER CUP with seams aligned. Press seams and smooth outer felt around the lining. The fit should be snug with at least 1/8 inch (3 mm) of felt showing above the liner. Adjust as needed.
Round 35 :
Looking good? Take the liner back out and add Tacky Glue to the entire Peltex octagon at the bottom of felt cup and also up the center of the handle panel (the one without the flower). Pop liner back inside with seams aligned; press firmly and let dry.
Round 36 :
Snip a 1 1/4 inch (3.2 cm) pipe cleaner piece. Trim its nap to make it slender for rim reinforcement. Glue near the rim where hanging loop will be; this strengthens the rim.
Round 37 :
Use Fabri-Tac to glue the pipe cleaner piece centered on the panel to the left of the handle panel, right at top of Peltex liner. This strengthens rim and helps keep shape when hung.
Round 38 :
2 strands matching floss + whipstitch: Third and final time you will sew a little eight-sided bowl, this time with embroidered OUTER CUP. As you sew all outside seams, keep knots/tails on inside where they’ll be hidden. Line up embroidery designs as you sew.
Round 39 :
Test the PELTEX CUP LINING inside the OUTER CUP with all seams aligned. Use gentle pressure to smooth the outer felt cup around the liner, pressing the liner firmly into the bottom of the cup. There should be at least 1/8 inch margin of felt above the liner. Keep smoothing until it looks right.
Round 40 :
Add Tacky Glue to the entire Peltex octagon at the bottom of the felt cup and up the center of the handle panel. Pop the liner back inside with seams aligned, quickly smoothing and adjusting to get an even felt margin, pressing liner against the bottom and handle panel. Let dry.
Round 41 :
Round the CUP FOOT with your fingers so it’s more or less circular. Carefully add a thin line of Fabri-Tac around the cut edges of the Peltex octagon. With the seam centered on the cup handle panel, attach the foot bottom as shown and let set.
Round 42 :
Align the HANDLE ends with your fingers if they’re wonky. Coat both raw ends with Fabri-Tac and carefully press the handle in place on the cup, centered side to side. The top end should attach just below the rim. Hold firmly until glue sets and let dry completely.
Round 43 :
Gently stretch the PILLOW FRONT to match the back if needed. Align the PILLOW FRONT and BACK wrong sides together. Sew with 2 strands of matching floss + whipstitch, pausing to stuff the pillow lightly so it remains squishy. Sew the opening closed.
Round 44 :
2 strands of matching floss + whipstitch: Neatly sew the outer and inner rims of felt together all the way around, hiding knots in between layers as you go.
Round 45 :
2 strands of matching floss + whipstitch: Use Fabri-Tac to glue just the Peltex of the HANDLES together so the double Peltex layers are sandwiched between felt. Starting with the outside curve, sew the felt margins tightly together, hiding the Peltex. Leave the straight edges (where it will attach to the teacup) unsewn.
Round 46 :
2 strands of matching floss + whipstitch: Glue the CUP FOOT BACK to the wrong side of the CUP FOOT so Peltex is sandwiched. Trim if too long. Sew the margins together all the way around.
Round 47 :
Fold the CUP FOOT in half, align the straight edges, and sew tightly together to form the ring shape of the foot.
Round 48 :
Turn the cup upside down on a flat surface. Press down gently to true it up. Use Fabri-Tac to glue the last Peltex BOTTOM BRACE to the felt bottom of the teacup, aligning points of the octagon with cup seams and making sure it’s center and level. Let dry.
Round 49 :
Round the CUP FOOT with your fingers to make it circular. Carefully add a thin line of Fabri-Tac around the cut edges of the Peltex octagon. With the seam centered on the cup handle panel, press the foot to the octagon and hold until set. Let dry.
Round 50 :
Use glue to secure the FOOT BOTTOM (with the year embroidered on it) inside the foot as shown, hiding the Peltex. Orient the numbers with the panel next to the handle panel so the year looks straight when hung.
Round 51 :
Snip a 1 1/4 inch (3.2 cm) pipe cleaner piece, trim it to look slender, and give it a nice haircut so it’s pretty slender for rim reinforcement. This piece strengthens the rim and helps the hanging loop position.
Round 52 :
2 strands of matching floss + whipstitch: Gently stretch the PILLOW FRONT to match the back, if needed. Align PILLOW FRONT and BACK wrong sides together. Sew as shown, pausing to stuff the pillow lightly so it’s still pretty squashy. Sew the opening closed.
Round 53 :
2 strands of matching floss + whipstitch: Use dots of Tacky Glue to attach the QUILT EDGE aligned with the top edge of the QUILT. Sew around three sides as shown.
Round 54 :
2 strands of matching floss + whipstitch: Time to tackle teeny TEDDY. Align front and back wrong sides together. Starting at the neck, sew around the head and pause to stuff the head lightly, then continue around body. Pause after the legs to add a little stuffing to the body (not to the arms/legs). Finish sewing.
Round 55 :
2 strands of matching floss + whipstitch: Use tiny dots of Tacky Glue to baste both EARS in place on the back of Teddy’s head, then secure with a few single stitches as shown.
Round 56 :
2 strands of matching floss + whipstitch: Unskewer the two little mouse ears and use dashed guides on the pattern to glue baste them in place on the MOUSE FRONT and BACK. Use a dot of glue at the base of each ear and then sew around the ear base to secure.
Round 57 :
2 strands of matching floss + whipstitch: Glue the mouse arms in place on FRONT and BACK as shown using dashed guides on pattern. Glue/stitches needed only around shoulders to secure.
Round 58 :
Snip a 2 inch (5 cm) and a 2 1/2 inch (6.4 cm) piece of cotton pipe cleaner for mouse bones. Curve them to match shapes on pattern. Use Tacky Glue to attach them to the wrong side of the MOUSE BACK as shown. These ‘bones’ make your mouse slightly bendy for a better fit in the cup. Skip if mouse will be glued in place.
Round 59 :
OPTIONAL TAIL: If your mouse is not tethered, tiny tails are a cute feature: 6 strands of pink floss + knots + 5 mm sequin. Use an embroidery needle to pull a few inches of knotted pink floss through a 5 mm sequin, then through the wrong side of the MOUSE BACK at the tail location. Add a drop of glue on knot and trim. Tail about 1 1/2 inches (3.8 cm) is recommended.
Round 60 :
TETHER: If you added a tether earlier to your cup, attach it to Mouse’s derriere now. Use an embroidery needle to pull the end of the tether through the MOUSE BACK in the spot marked for his tail. Secure with a knot and sequin, trim neatly, and add a drop of glue to the knot.
Round 61 :
2 strands of matching floss + whipstitch: Let’s sew Mouse together (same process with or without legs). Align MOUSE FRONT and BACK wrong sides together. Sew as shown, folding ears and arm out of the way as you go, pausing to stuff the mouse firmly. Use a dowel or stuffing fork to push stuffing into nose and legs first, then body. When stuffed, sew opening closed.
Round 62 :
Use a pink or red colored pencil to lightly color a small nose and rosy cheeks. Add a blush of color inside both ears for a cute finish.
Round 63 :
Finishing touches: Use either type of glue to securely attach the pillow in place centered on the panel next to the handle as shown, with pillow’s top edge just above the cup rim. Let glue set.
Round 64 :
Use a thin line of either glue on the wrong side to secure just the left edge of the quilt about 1/2 inch (1.2 cm) down from the rim of the cup, as shown. Let dry completely.
Round 65 :
TETHERED OR FREE RANGE: Bend Mouse’s legs up and curve his body so he can snuggle properly into the curved bowl of the cup.
Round 66 :
TETHERED: Glue or sew Teddy tucked into Mouse’s left arm so he doesn’t go missing. Use tiny stitches or a small dot of glue to hold Teddy in place.
Round 67 :
GLUED: To fix them permanently in place, glue Teddy and Mouse snuggled side by side on the pillow, tuck them in snugly with Mouse’s chin over the quilt edge, and glue the other quilt edge to the cup on the right side. Finish by gluing quilt edge to the cup. Skip ahead to loop attachment.
Round 68 :
TETHERED OR FREE RANGE: Tuck Teddy into Mouse’s left arm if he’s not there already, then tuck them both in by placing their heads on the pillow with mouse body angled into bowl. Bunch tether under mouse if needed. Tuck quilt under mouse’s chin and around his body. Natural grab of felt will keep them tucked in.
Round 69 :
Add the Hanging Loop: Cut one 9 inch (23 cm) length of silver or gold pearl embroidery floss. Fold in half and tie an overhand knot near the cut ends by looping through itself. Trim tail of knot so it is neat.
Round 70 :
Thread a needle with doubled silver/gold/matching thread. No knot. Go in the teacup from a random spot below and out through the rim at the center of the pillow panel leaving a tail. Make a couple small, tight stitches on the spot, then sew on the hanging loop with several more neat stitches in same spot. Don’t sew through loop floss; sew around it so the loop can slide to center knot.
Round 71 :
To finish, go back inside the loop spot and out again at another random spot further down the teacup. Pull both tails taut and carefully trim them so they disappear inside the cup. Secure with a few small stitches if desired.
Round 72 :
Recommended: Add a tiny drop of Fray Check on the loop attachment and the overhand knot on the loop to keep them from raveling with use. All done! Congratulations — your sleepy mouse-in-a-teacup ornament is finished and ready to hang or gift.
This teacup mouse ornament is a delightful little heirloom to make and share. It blends embroidery, beading, and careful hand sewing into a sweet, tiny scene that will hang on your tree or sit on a mantel. Make a set in coordinating colors to give as special handmade gifts this season. 🧵🧶
