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MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern
4.4★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
2.0K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern guides you through creating a detailed Mimosa Baby amigurumi doll with embroidered eyes and delicate facial features. You will crochet the head, body, arms, legs and accessories while following clear, photo-supported steps. The design uses cotton threads and fine hooks to achieve a neat, collectible finish.

MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Included are stitch counts, eye embroidery instructions, and tips for shaping and filling. The pattern is ideal for making a personalized handmade gift or a display doll.

Why You'll Love This MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines classic amigurumi shaping with detailed eye embroidery that brings the face to life. I enjoy the challenge of precise shaping and the satisfaction when the features come together perfectly. The pattern encourages creativity — you can change colors and hair to make each doll unique. Sharing this project feels special because it results in a keepsake that will be treasured for years.

MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this pattern by changing yarn colors — try pastel shades for a soft nursery friend or bright colors for a playful look.

Want a mini version? Use thinner yarn and a smaller hook to create pocket-sized Mimosa Baby dolls perfect for keychains or ornaments.

If you prefer a plushier doll, switch to a bulkier cotton yarn and a larger hook; the proportions will remain similar but the doll will be chunkier and cuddlier.

I often experiment with hair styles: use looped yarn for short curly hair or long strands for braided styles that you can style and trim.

For eyes, try different color combinations for the iris — green, hazel or grey threads give very different personalities to the doll.

I like adding tiny accessories like a crocheted hat or purse; they are simple to add by making small rectangles or circles and sewing them on.

If you want posable limbs, insert thin wire into the arms and legs before final stuffing and sewing, then cover with the electrical wire suggested in the materials.

Try embroidering freckles or blush with dry crayon for a delicate face finish, and always test placement before committing to stitches.

To make a sibling set, vary yarn weights or hair colors and create matching outfits in complementary colors for a coordinated collection.

I recommend practicing the eye embroidery on a scrap swatch first so you can master the basting and tour technique before working on the final head.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at the start of rounds causes confusion and uneven increases; place a marker at the start of every round to keep track of the stitch counts. ✗ Failing to stuff regularly results in lumps and misshapen limbs; stuff gradually every 4-6 rows and shape as you go for a smooth finish. ✗ Using inconsistent tension leads to irregular stitch sizes and sizing issues; maintain even tension and check gauge frequently to match the pattern's dimensions. ✗ Rushing eye embroidery can create misaligned pupils and uneven irises; mark positions carefully, baste the circle first and follow the steps slowly for balanced eyes.

MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

Make a charming Mimosa Baby crochet doll with this detailed pattern. You will create a 35cm amigurumi with embroidered eyes, shaped limbs, and lovely outfit details. The pattern includes step-by-step head shaping, eye embroidery, limbs, legs and finishing notes so you can follow along with confidence. Perfect for crafters who love detailed handmade dolls.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Peria Baby Soft Cotton skin color 17 - 2 pieces (main skin yarn)
  • 02
    Peria Baby Soft Cotton white 13 - 1 piece (for t-shirt and trims)
  • 03
    Schachenmayr Catania green 419 - 1 ball (green accents)
  • 04
    Schachenmayr Catania purple 240 - 1 ball (dress color)
  • 05
    Gazzal Baby Cotton lilac 3422 - 1 ball (dress/lilac accents)
  • 06
    Trade Diva 55 - 1 ball (hair or details)
  • 07
    Paper rope dark straw - small length for handbag/props
  • 08
    Viburnum Etamine 840 for hair - 2 skeins (hair fiber)
  • 09
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 Light Blue K0028 - small amount (eye color)
  • 10
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 Dark Blue K00147 - small amount (eye color)
  • 11
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 Brown K0035 - small amount (details)
  • 12
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 White - small amount (eye whites)
  • 13
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 Black - small amount (pupil and lashes)
  • 14
    Orenbayan Cotton Perle Pink 465 - small amount (lips/blush)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2.00 mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 2.20 mm
  • 03
    2.5 size skewer (for turning or stuffing assistance)
  • 04
    Etamine needle for sewing
  • 05
    Quilt needle for eye embroidery
  • 06
    Yarn needle for sewing pieces together
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Stitch markers
  • 09
    Bead fiber (polyester stuffing)
  • 10
    Pacifier chain rope / parachute rope half meter (for shoelaces)
  • 11
    70cm 2.5mm electrical wire to put on neck and arms (for internal support/posing)
  • 12
    Dry crayon for make-up and aging

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Info :

Start with skin color.

Row 1 :

6x into the magic ring

Row 2 :

6v (12)

Row 3 :

(x, v)*6 (18)

Row 4 :

(2x,v)*6 (24)

Row 5 :

(3x,v)*6 (30)

Row 6 :

(4x,v)*6 (36)

Row 7 :

(5x,v)*6 (42)

Row 8 :

(6x,v)*6 (48)

Row 9 :

(7x,v)*6 (54)

Row 10 :

(8x,v)*6 (60)

Row 11 :

(9x,v)*6 (66)

Row 12 :

(10x,v)*6 (72)

Rows 13-27 :

(15 rows):72x

Info :

***Go to eye processing. After the eye embroidery is finished, the head will continue to be knitted.

— Eye Processing :

Infos :

Identifying eye locations: Align with the third increment loop of the head in the 12th row and place a marker between the 21st and 22nd rows with a pin. This is the midpoint between the two eyes. Make a mark with a pin by counting 6 sc to the right of the pin and 5 to the left of the pin. Remove the pins by placing dots in the designated places with the flying pen. Pupils will be embroidered on the marked places.

Info :

***There are 11 sc between the points we marked to process the pupils. Eye distance can be zoomed in and out optionally.

Info :

***The concept of tour will be used when processing the eye. The tour consists of two stages. In the first stage, basting is done by sinking into the folds of the frequent needles. In the second stage, the round is completed by going through all the basting stitches.

Info :

EYE PROCESSING YOUTUBE LINK:https://youtu.be/UUQV31Uj2nk

Step one :

Draw a circle with a flying pencil so that the diameter of the pupils corresponds to two single needles. Attach a single layer of black domino thread to the needle. Complete the first step by basting the circumference of the circle from the multiples of the frequent needles. In the second stage, complete the tour as in the image by passing from the outside to the inside under each of the stitches you have worked on.

Step 2 :

Remove the needle from the upper part of the eye and pass under the opposite stitches to fill the pupil. Process horizontally all the way down, taking care not to overlap the threads while embroidering.

Info :

***If you could not provide an oval image to the pupil as in the image, try to get the correct shape by sinking around it a few times. Process the other pupil in the same way.

Step 3 :

Draw the iris of the eye in a circle, leaving a single needle around the pupil. Starting from the upper part of the eye with dark blue thread, embroider around the iris by basting from the fold of the loops. Complete the round as in the image by passing under each of the stitches you have embroidered from the outside to the inside.

Step 4 :

Process one more round into the iris.

Step 5 :

Embroider the upper half of the iris with another round of dark blue thread. ***The remaining half will be embroidered with light blue thread.

Step 6 :

With a double layer of light blue thread, embroider the half part under the pupil.

Info :

***The width and length of the iris is 4 sc. Process the other iris in the same way. If there are gaps in the processed areas, retouch the gaps by sinking into the head.

Step 7 :

To embroider the white part of the eye, draw a circle starting from the bottom row of the inner part of the eye and ending at the highest point of the outer part of the eye, as in the image. The part of the circle on the nose side of the eye should be the width of a single needle, expand a little more towards the outer part, and taper a little more towards the top.

Step 8 :

Complete the first step by basting around the circle you have drawn, starting from the top. At the end of the first stage, remove the needle from the starting point and complete the tour by doing the second stage.

Step 9 :

Do one more round in the same way.

Step 10 :

Since the upper white part of the eye is full, start the new round from the untreated area and process one more round. ***If there are 3 rounds of processing on the white part, but there are still empty spaces, one more round can be made or the empty spaces can be retouched.

Step 11 :

A round will be made with the same technique between the blue and white part of the eye with the black rope. ***Process the other eye in the same way.

Section :

Lash bottom line: one- Sink into the second row from the bottom of the outer part of the eye. Baste up to the corner of the eye. Complete the tour by sinking in from the eye spring and leaving the starting point and embroidering over the basting stitches.

Step :

2- Do one more round, starting from the top row of the lower lash line and up to the corner of the eye.

Section :

Eyelash: one- Come out from the upper row of the lower line of the eyelash as in the image and sink into the root of the eyelash. Repeat the same action on the same eyelash.

Step :

2- Determine the places of the other eyelashes as in the image. The technique of processing eyelashes is as follows. First, a small eyelash will be processed by sinking further than the point you have determined. Then, insert the needle under the small eyelash and exit from the point you have determined and sink into the root of the eyelash. Complete the other eyelashes with this technique.

Section :

Eye shimmer: Attach two layers of white thread to the quilt needle. Process both eyes in the same way as in the pictures.

Info :

***Eye processing is finished. The head will continue to be knitted.

Row 28-30 :

(3 rows):72x

Row 31 :

2x, a, (10x,a)*5, 8x (66)

Row 32 :

5x, a, (9x,a)*5, 4x (60)

Row 33 :

(8x,a)*6 (54)

Row 34 :

2x, a, (7x,a)*5, 5x (48)

Row 35 :

5x, a, (6x,a)*5, x (42)

Info :

***You fill the head.

Row 38 :

2x, a, (5x,a)*5, 3x (36)

Row 39 :

(4x,a)*6 (30)

Row 40 :

(3x,a)*6 (24)

Info :

***You fill the head. While filling the head, fill it as round as possible without disturbing its form. If you fill to the sides after the filling process is finished, the head will be more rounded.

Row 41 :

(x,a)*8, sl st (16)

Info :

***Head done, cut the rope.

— Nose, Eyebrow, Lips :

Info :

Nose: It will be embroidered by leaving two single needles spaced, two rows below the eye, coinciding with the middle level of the two eyes. Separate the yarn into layers. Process the nose by sinking in and out 4-5 times as in the image.

Info :

Eyebrow: Embroider the eyebrows one row above the lashes, leaving 9 single needles with a width of 5 sc between the two eyebrows. Follow the images.

Info :

Lips: Determine the place of the lip with pins, leaving 3 single needles down the nose, and 3 frequent needles. Attach the thread to the needle in two layers. To embroider the lip, the triangle shape will be created. Enter through the neck space and exit from the designated point on the left. Dive into the middle of the lip in the upper row and exit from the determined point on the right. To form the other side of the triangle, sink to the upper point and exit the neck space. Enter from the left of the lip and enter from the right and exit the neck cavity.

Info :

LIP PROCESSING YOUTUBE LINK:https://youtu.be/Q3ZyjkKUoHQ

1st round :

Lip shaping will be created by wrapping the triangle. Insert the needle under the thread and exit from the top to embroider. Starting from the top left edge, loop the rope 5 times. Take care not to overlap the yarn and to keep it regularly side by side. Do the same to the right side of the upper lip. Complete the round by wrapping the bottom edge 6-7 times.

2nd round :

In the second round, if you make 3-4 loops on the outer lips and the loops on the lips towards the middle part, it will stop. Intensity of 4 to the lower lip, middle of the lower lip. ***Lip fullness can be increased upon request.

— Arm :

Info :

Start with skin color.

Row 1 :

6x into the magic ring

Row 2 :

2v, x, 2v, x (10)

Row 3 :

2x, v, 4x, v, 2x (12)

Row 4 :

3x, v, 5x, v, 2x (14)

Row 5 :

4x, v, 9x (15)

Rows 6-8 :

(3 rows):15x (15)

Row 9 :

4x, a, 6x, a, x (13)

Row 10 :

11x (12)

Rows 11-36 :

(26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread.

Info :

***The arms will not be filled with fibers. Knit the other arm in the same way.

— Foot Recipe :

Info :

Start with tan yarn. The two feet will be knitted with the same recipe and the right and left legs will be continued with separate recipes.

Row 1 :

9ch check. Starting from 2ch, into the first loop 2x, 6x, into the same loop 3x, 7x (18)

Row 2 :

v, 8x, v, 8x (20)

Rows 3-10 :

(8 rows):20x

Row 11 :

3x, 7ch and skip 9x, 8x

Row 12 :

3x, 7x on 7 chain, 8x (18)

Info :

***It will continue with the heel part.

Row 13 :

(x,a)*6 (12)

Row 14 :

6a, the heel is over, leave a long rope to collect the heel and break the rope.

Info :

***Gather the needle and 6 sc needles from the flo loops, tighten them well, knot the thread inside the foot and hide it.

Info :

***The foot is over, the leg will be passed. Knit the other foot in the same way.

— Left leg recipe :

Info :

***While filling, the left foot and leg should always be filled to the left of the leg, creating a protruding image on the calf and carefully filling. If the filling in the feet and legs is not done carefully and regularly, the distorted and protruding appearance of the heels, calves and knees may not be available.

Row 1 :

We turn the back of the foot and pull the 7th loop, attach the thread to the 4th loop, 4x on the chain, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 9x in the front, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 3x on the chain (18)

Info :

***This will be the top of the line.

Row 2 :

4x, a, float 7x, a, 3x (16)

Rows 3-6 :

(4 rows):16x

Info :

***Fill the wrist. (Pay attention to the pre-written tips in leg filling.)

Row 7 :

v, 15x (17)

Row 8 :

17x

Row 9 :

x, v, 15x (18)

Row 10 :

18x

Row 11 :

2x, v, 15x (19)

Row 12 :

3x, v, 15x (20)

Row 13 :

20x

Row 14 :

4x, v, 15x (21)

Row 15 :

21x

Row 16 :

5x, v, 15x (22)

Row 17 :

22x

Row 18 :

6x, v, 15x (23)

Rows 19-23 :

(5 rows):23x

Row 24 :

5x, a, x, a, 13x (21)

Row 25 :

21x

Row 26 :

4x, a, x, a, 12x (19)

Row 27 :

5x, a, 5x, 4v, 3x (22)

Info :

***The 27th row is the 4v kneecap. If there is a shift in the raises due to the hand difference, you can scroll the knee raises. Change the head of the line accordingly and continue with the recipe.

Row 28 :

22x

Row 29 :

13x, 4a, x (18)

Row 30 :

4x, v, x, v, 11x (20)

Row 31 :

20x

Row 32 :

6x, v, 13x (21)

Row 33 :

21x

Row 34 :

7x, v, x, v, 11x (23)

Row 35 :

23x

Row 36 :

8x, v, 14x (24)

Row 37 :

24x

Row 38 :

9x, v, 14x (25)

Row 39 :

25x

Row 40 :

10x, v, 14x (26)

Row 41 :

26x

Row 42 :

11x, v, 14x (27)

Row 43 :

27x

Row 44 :

12x, v, 14x (28)

Row 45 :

4x with tan, 24x with white thread (28)

Row 46 :

28x

Row 47 :

4x, sl st, finish, break the thread. Left leg done.

— Right leg recipe :

Info :

***When filling, the right foot and leg should always be filled to the right of the leg to create a protruding image on the calf. The right leg is knitted with the same recipe as the left leg until the 26th row. The difference in appearance in the two lower legs is all about filling.

Row 1 :

We turn the back of the foot and pull the 7th loop, attach the thread to the 4th loop, 4x on the chain, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 9x in the front, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 3x on the chain (18)

Row 2 :

4x, a, float 7x, a, 3x (16)

Rows 3-6 :

(4 rows):16x

Info :

***Fill the wrist. When we turn the toe to ourselves, the left part of the right leg will be the calf (blue arrow side) and this side will be protruded. Always add more filling to the protruding part. Keep the leg away and check the image frequently. Proceed by making a filling in 4-5 rows.

Row 7 :

v, 15x (17)

Row 8 :

17x

Row 9 :

x, v, 15x (18)

Row 10 :

18x

Row 11 :

2x, v, 15x (19)

Row 12 :

3x, v, 15x (20)

Row 13 :

20x

Row 14 :

4x, v, 15x (21)

Row 15 :

21x

Row 16 :

5x, v, 15x (22)

Row 17 :

22x

Row 18 :

6x, v, 15x (23)

Rows 19-23 :

(5 rows):23x

Row 24 :

5x, a, x, a, 13x (21)

Row 25 :

21x

Row 26 :

4x, a, x, a, 12x (19)

Row 27 :

5x, a, 7x, 4v, x (22)

Row 28 :

22x

Row 29 :

13x, 4a, x (18)

Row 30 :

4x, v, x, v, 11x (20)

Row 31 :

20x

Row 32 :

6x, v, 13x (21)

Row 33 :

21x

Row 34 :

7x, v, x, v, 11x (23)

Row 35 :

23x

Row 36 :

8x, v, 14x (24)

Row 37 :

24x

Row 38 :

9x, v, 14x (25)

Row 39 :

25x

Info :

Continue following the left leg pattern for the remaining rows and shaping, mirroring fill directions for the right leg.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the head to the body by aligning the neck opening with the top body opening, then sew securely with whipstitch using the long tail left after finishing the head.
  • Position arms on either side of the body between the specified rounds and sew them with ladder stitch, making sure the seams are hidden and limbs are symmetrical.
  • Insert 70cm 2.5mm electrical wire into the neck and through the arms for internal support before final sewing to allow minimal posing of the limbs.
  • Sew legs to the bottom of the body, spacing them evenly and checking the doll stands upright; use additional stuffing to shape calves and knees before final attachment.
  • Use pacifier chain rope or parachute rope for shoelaces and attach small buttons to the dress and t-shirt locations as indicated in the materials list.

Important Notes

  • 💡After the row that ends with sl st, when you rise by pulling 1 or 2 chains at the beginning of the row and make x or DC, it is first dipped into the loop at the bottom of the chain.
  • 💡When the leg and arm are finished, sl st is done to close them; when you are going to knit on the finished piece, these sl sts are accepted as frequent needles and frequent needles are made on it.
  • 💡If you carry the threads that we break off at the end of the row and attach to remove the loop while knitting the row, you will provide a neat appearance.
  • 💡Fill the pieces you have knitted in 5-6 rows; knit tightly and pay attention to homogeneous filling to achieve the intended shapes and avoid deformations.
  • 💡The finished baby's height is around 35cm, and the size may change depending on hand tension and yarn choices; adjust hook and filling as needed.

This Mimosa Baby pattern brings a sweet handmade friend to life with fine details and embroidered eyes. The step-by-step instructions guide you through shaping, eye embroidery, and custom finishing touches. Make one to gift or to add a handmade charm to your collection. 🧶✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 35 cm tall when using the recommended yarns and hook sizes, though final size may vary with tension and yarn choice.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can, but this will affect the final size and texture; if using a different yarn weight, adjust your hook size and check gauge, keeping in mind embroidery details may change.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and includes shaping, embroidery and some assembly; basic knowledge of single crochet, increases, decreases and reading round counts is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 12-15 hours over several sessions; time will vary depending on experience, embroidery speed and assembly choices.

Are safety eyes used or are the eyes embroidered?

The pattern uses embroidered eyes with step-by-step instructions for pupils, iris and shimmer; no safety eyes are required, making it a safer toy for gifting.