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Marley Mae Square Pattern

Marley Mae Square Pattern
4.5★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.4K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

About This Marley Mae Square Pattern

This pattern creates the Marley Mae Square, a decorative 11" x 11" textured crochet square with layered post stitches, clusters, and cable details. You will work through 17 rounds with clear photos and stitch definitions to guide you. The design is ideal for worsted cotton yarn to keep stitch definition crisp and colors vibrant.

Marley Mae Square Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Includes full round-by-round instructions, stitch definitions, and blocking guidance. Use it for cushions, blankets, or as an eye-catching motif in larger projects.

Why You'll Love This Marley Mae Square Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because the layered post stitches create a beautiful 3D texture that really stands out. I feel proud every time I finish a square and see how the clusters and cables frame the center medallion. The colorway combinations give so much creative freedom — I enjoy mixing bright and soft shades for different moods. Working this square is satisfying and keeps me learning new techniques while still being relaxing. I genuinely hope you enjoy making it as much as I loved designing it.

Marley Mae Square Pattern step 1 - construction progress Marley Mae Square Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Marley Mae Square Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Marley Mae Square Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how many customization options this square offers — I often swap color placements to create a totally different mood.

I sometimes use bulky cotton for a chunkier version, or sport weight yarn for a delicate mini square; changing yarn weight and hook size alters the finished size dramatically.

I also experiment with ombre9 or variegated yarns for the center medallion to give a more organic color flow.

Try changing corner treatments: use larger ch-3 corners instead of ch-2 for a more open look or a smaller corner for a denser edge.

I like to add a simple picot or crab stitch border for a finished, decorative edge; it frames the square nicely.

Use a contrasting color for the cable st round to make the cable pop and become a focal point of the square.

If you want a matching blanket, make multiple squares and alternate Colorway 1 and Colorway 2 for a cohesive layout.

I recommend blocking each square the same way and measuring them to ensure even joins when assembling a larger piece.

For joining, try slip-stitch seams for a neat flat join, or mattress stitch for an invisible connection depending on the final look you want.

I often embroider a small accent or add a tiny crocheted motif to the center to personalize the square for gifts or keepsakes.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers during rounds that instruct markers (markers #1-#4); place and remove markers exactly as directed to maintain correct stitch placement and counts. ✗ Working your stitches too tightly in rounds with post or cluster stitches can distort the square; loosen your tension slightly for post and cluster rounds and check your counts frequently. ✗ Forgetting to use the invisible join can leave a visible gap at the round seam; use the invisible join method described, anchor it through the back loops, and weave in ends for a seamless finish. ✗ Not blocking the square after finishing will keep the stitches closed and uneven; wet block or steam block the square carefully (avoid direct steam on acrylic) and pin to the correct shape. ✗ Failing to weave in ends as you go results in a bulky finishing task and loose tails; weave in ends during color changes and after rounds to keep a tidy finish.

Marley Mae Square Pattern

Make a bright, textured Marley Mae Square that combines layered post stitches, clusters, and cable details to create a striking motif. This pattern uses worsted cotton for a crisp stitch definition and finishes at approximately 11" square. Follow the step-by-step rounds, photos, and notes to create a gorgeous square for blankets or home projects. Perfect as a standalone coaster or joined into a beautiful blanket.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Marley Mae Square Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    I Love This Cotton (Worsted Weight), 100% cotton - Colorway 1: use A Buttercup, B Banana, C Curry, D Mint, E Aqua, F Turquoise, G White (amounts vary by project; sample square uses small amounts of each color)
  • 02
    Loops & Threads, Cr me Cotton (Worsted Weight), 100% - Colorway 2: A Pale Orchid (used in alternative colorway)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 4.5 mm (G)
  • 02
    Stitch markers (multiple)
  • 03
    Darning needle / yarn needle for weaving ends
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Pins and blocking mat or surface for wet blocking or steam blocking

Progress Tracker

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— Marley Mae Square :

Info :

Hook/Finished Size: 11" x 11", 4.5 mm hook. Crochet Terms: US terminology throughout. Skill Level: Intermediate. Yarn and Colors Used: I Love This Cotton (Worsted Weight), 100% cotton. Colorway 1: A = Buttercup; B = Banana; C = Curry; D = Mint; E = Aqua; F = Turquoise; G = White. Loops & Threads, Cr me Cotton (Worsted Weight), 100%: Colorway 2 A = Pale Orchid. Additional Items Needed: Stitch markers and darning needle.

Infos :

Stitches used include double magic circle, standing stitch, ch (Chain), invisible join, st(s) (Stitch/stitches), sp (Space), sc (Single crochet), FPsc (Front post single crochet), BPsc (Back post single crochet), hdc (Half double crochet), FPhdc (Front post half double crochet), BPhdc (Back post half double crochet), shallow FPhdc (shallow front post half double crochet), dc (Double crochet), FPdc (Front post double crochet), 2FPdc-cluster (2 front post double crochet-cluster), long dc (Long double crochet), dc2tog (Double crochet 2 together), dc3tog (Double crochet 3 together), FPtr (Front post treble crochet), BL (Back loop), cable st.

Info :

Definitions and stitch notes: double magic circle (video at A Yarn of Serendipity). Standing stitch: Start with a slst on your hook; insert your hook into designated st or ch sp and finish st as normal. Invisible join: Do not join after completing last st of rnd; cut yarn and pull yarn tail through st; remove hook and insert from back-to-front-to-back of 2nd st of rnd; grab yarn and gently pull through; from the back, insert hook from bottom-to-top of the center of last st of rnd; pull yarn gently through st; anchor join by drawing through any back loop of first and last sts of rnd and weave in ends. See videos for full demonstration.

Info :

Post and cluster stitch notes: FPsc - insert hook from front-to-back-to-front around post so post is in front of hook; yo and pull up a loop; yo and pull through remaining 2 loops on hook. BPsc - insert hook from back-to-front-to-back around post so post is in back of your hook; yo and pull up a loop; yo and pull through remaining 2 loops on hook. FPhdc, BPhdc, FPdc, 2FPdc-cluster, long dc, dc2tog, dc3tog, FPtr and cable st are defined in the pattern text - follow the supplied descriptions and photos for placement and loop usage.

Info :

Symbol Guide and Special Instructions: Asterisks (*) indicate repeat instructions; parentheses ( ) and brackets [ ] indicate grouped instructions as shown in the pattern. COUNT TOTALS: Total chain spaces are included in the st count; corner chain spaces are not included in the total unless specified. Instructions for ALL rounds start with a standing stitch and end with an invisible join to 2nd st of rnd, and fasten off. If not changing colors, you can opt to finish the previous rnd with a slip stitch join and use an appropriate "ch" or "chainless starting stitch" to begin the next round. Keep in mind that if you choose the slip stitch end, the "ch" or "chainless starting stitch" will replace the first standing st of the round.

Round 1 :

RND 1 Colorway 1: A, Buttercup Colorway 2: A, Pale Orchid. In a double magic circle, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc of rnd), 7 dc; cut yarn, invisible join to 1st true dc of rnd. Counts: 8 dc (8 total)

Round 2 :

RND 2 Colorway 1: B, Banana Colorway 2: A, Pale Orchid. Starting in any dc, *hdc in dc; FPdc around dc immediately before hdc just worked; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 8 hdc, 8 FPdc (16 total)

Round 3 :

RND 3 Colorway 1: C, Curry Colorway 2: A, Pale Orchid. Starting in any hdc, *hdc in hdc AND FPdc, FPdc around FPdc immediately before hdc just worked; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 16 hdc, 8 FPdc (24 total)

Round 4 :

RND 4 Colorway 1: D, Mint Colorway 2: A, Pale Orchid. NOTE: After completing BPsc, the next st may be partially hidden. Starting in 1st hdc of any group of 2 hdc *shallow BPsc around st, (2 sc) in NEXT st; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 24 sc, 12 BPsc (36 total)

Round 5 :

RND 5 Colorway 1: E, Aqua Colorway 2: A, Pale Orchid. Note: Work in 3LP of all sts in this rnd. Starting in 1st sc of any (2 sc) group, * dc in 2 sc (place st marker around post of both dc-marker #1, #2), ch 2; use NEXT 7 sts to work dc, hdc, 3 sc, hdc, dc; ch 2; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 12 sc, 8 hdc, 16 dc, 8-ch 2 sp (52 total)

Round 6 :

RND 6 Colorway 1: F, Turquoise Colorway 2: A, Pale Orchid. Starting in ch-2 sp before marker #1, *(3 hdc) place a st marker in 1st hdc - marker #3; BPhdc around NEXT 2 dc; (3 hdc) in NEXT ch-2 sp, place st marker in 3rd hdc - marker #4); [ch 1, sk st; 2FPdc-cluster around NEXT st] 3 times; ch 1, sk dc; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 24 hdc, 12 2FPdc-cluster, 8 BPhdc, 16 ch-1 sp (60 total)

Round 7 :

RND 7 Colorway 1: F, Turquoise Colorway 2: A, Pale Orchid. Starting in marked st #3 of rnd 6, *hdc in hdc-do not remove marker; sc in NEXT 6 sts; hdc in NEXT hdc-do not remove marker; ch 1, sk ch-1 sp; dc in NEXT 2FPdc-cluster; ch 1, sk ch-1 sp; (2 dc, ch 2 as a corner, 2 dc) in NEXT 2FPdc-cluster; ch 1, sk ch-1 sp; dc in NEXT 2FPdc-cluster; ch 1, sk ch-1 sp; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 24 sc, 8 hdc, 24 dc, 16 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 corner sp (72 total/18 per side)

Round 8 :

RND 8 Colorway 1: E, Aqua Colorway 2: A, Pale Orchid. Starting in ch-2 corner sp before marked st #3 of rnd 6, *(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in ch-2 corner sp, sk NEXT 2 dc; (2 hdc) in NEXT ch-1 sp; sk dc, (2 hdc) in NEXT ch-1 sp, ch 1; FPsc around NEXT worked and marked hdc of rnd 6 (marker #3), remove marker, ch 1; FPsc around NEXT 2 worked and marked dc of rnd 5 (marker #1 and #2), remove markers, ch 1; FPsc around worked and marked hdc of rnd 6 (marker #4), remove marker, ch 1; sk NEXT (hdc, 6 sc, hdc) of rnd 7; (2 hdc) in NEXT ch-1 sp; sk dc, (2 hdc) in NEXT ch-1 sp, sk NEXT 2 dc; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 48 hdc, 16 FPsc, 16 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 corner sp (80 total/20 per side)

Round 9 :

RND 9 Colorway 1: G, White Colorway 2: A, Pale Orchid. Starting in any ch-2 corner sp, *(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in ch-2 corner sp; ch 1, sk NEXT 2 hdc; FPtr around NEXT 2 dc of rnd 7 corner; hdc between (2 hdc) directly behind FPtr and NEXT (2 hdc); ch 1, sk NEXT 2 hdc; hdc between skipped (2 hdc) and NEXT (2 hdc), ch 2; dc2tog, working in 1st and 2nd UNworked sc of rnd 7, ch 1; dc3tog, working in NEXT 3 sc, ch 1; dc2tog, working in NEXT sc and hdc of rnd 7; ch 2, sk NEXT 2 hdc of rnd 8; hdc between previous (2 hdc) and NEXT 2 (hdc); ch 1, sk NEXT 2 hdc; hdc in between skipped (2 hdc) and NEXT (2 hdc); FPtr around NEXT 2 dc of rnd 7 corner, ch 1, sk NEXT 2 hdc; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 32 hdc, 16 FPtr, 8 dc2tog, 4 dc3tog, 24 ch-1 sp, 8 ch-2 sp, 4 ch-2 corner sp (100 total/25 per side)

Round 10 :

RND 10 Colorway 1: G, White Colorway 2: A, Pale Orchid. Starting in any ch-2 corner sp, *(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in ch-2 corner sp; hdc in NEXT 2 hdc, sk ch-1 sp; shallow FPhdc around NEXT 2 FPtr, sk hdc; hdc in NEXT ch-1 sp; FPhdc around NEXT hdc, hdc in NEXT ch-2 sp; FPhdc around NEXT dc2tog, hdc in NEXT ch-1 sp; FPhdc around NEXT dc3tog, hdc in NEXT ch-1 sp; FPhdc around NEXT dc2tog; hdc in NEXT ch-2 sp; FPhdc around NEXT hdc; hdc in NEXT ch-1 sp, sk hdc; shallow FPhdc around NEXT 2 FPtr; sk ch-1 sp, hdc in NEXT 2 sts; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 56 hdc, 16 shallow FPhdc, 20 FPhdc, 4 ch-2 corner sp (92 total/23 per side)

Round 11 :

RND 11 Colorway 1: C, Curry Colorway 2: A, Pale Orchid. NOTE: In this rnd, be careful not to make your sts too tight. Starting in any ch-2 corner sp, *(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 corner sp; [ch 1, sk st, sc in NEXT] 11 times, ch 1; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 52 sc, 48 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 corner sp (100 total/25 per side)

Round 12 :

RND 12 Colorway 1: B, Banana Colorway 2: A, Pale Orchid. Starting in any ch-2 corner sp, *(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 corner sp; [2FPdc-cluster around NEXT sc, ch 1; sc in NEXT ch-1 sp, sc and ch-1 sp] 6 times; 2FPdc-cluster around NEXT sc, ch 1; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 80 sc, 28 2FPdc-cluster, 28 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 corner sp (136 total/34 per side)

Round 13 :

RND 13 Colorway 1: E, Aqua Colorway 2: A, Pale Orchid. Start in any ch-2 corner sp, *(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 corner sp; working in BL and skipping all ch-1 sps, sc across in each st to NEXT ch-2 corner sp; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 8 sc, 108 BLsc, 4-ch 2 corner sp (116 total/29 per side)

Round 14 :

RND 14 Colorway 1: E, Aqua Colorway 2: A, Pale Orchid. Starting in any ch-2 corner sp, *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 corner sp; ch 1, sk NEXT sc; [cable st] 7 times, ch 1; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 16 dc, 28 cable st, 8 ch-1 sp, 4-ch 2 corner sp (52 total/13 per side)

Round 15 :

RND 15 Colorway 1: F, Turquoise Colorway 2: A, Pale Orchid. Starting in any ch-2 corner sp, *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 corner sp; ch 1, sk NEXT 2 dc; (2 dc) in NEXT ch-1 sp; sk cable st, [(4 dc) between NEXT 2 cable sts] 6 times; sk cable st, (2 dc) in NEXT ch-1 sp; ch 1, sk NEXT 2 dc; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 128 dc, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 corner sp (136 total/34 per side)

Round 16 :

RND 16 Colorway 1: G, White Colorway 2: A, Pale Orchid. Starting in any ch-2 corner sp, *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 corner sp; dc in NEXT 2 dc and ch-1 sp; dc in NEXT 13 dc; dc2tog in NEXT 2 dc; dc in NEXT 13 dc; dc in NEXT ch-1 sp and 2 dc; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 144 dc, 4 dc2tog, 4 ch-2 corner sp (148 total/37 per side)

Round 17 :

RND 17 Colorway 1: E, Aqua Colorway 2: A, Pale Orchid. Note: If after rnd 16, your square is running small, replace the sc with hdc. Starting in any ch-2 corner sp, *(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 corner sp; sc across in each st to NEXT ch-2 corner sp; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join and weave in ALL yarn ends. Counts: 156 sc, 4 ch-2 corner sp (156 total/39 per side)

Info :

Blocking and finishing: Blocking is a great way to put the finishing touches on your square. It allows you to reach your final shape and size and opens up your stitches, making them even and more defined. You can either wet block or steam block, but always make sure you are careful when steam blocking acrylic yarn. Weave in ALL ends after finishing and link to pattern sources as required by the designer.

Assembly Instructions

  • Block the finished square using wet blocking or steam blocking to achieve the final shape and size; pin to the measured dimensions and allow to dry completely.
  • Weave in ALL yarn ends after completing Round 17 and secure any color changes; trim excess tails close to your work.
  • Use stitch markers as demonstrated (markers #1-#4) to mark posts and placement during construction and remove them when instructed; place markers around posts as directed for accurate stitch placement.
  • Anchor the invisible join by drawing through any back loop of the first and last stitch of the round as described in the invisible join notes; this secures the seam and prevents unraveling.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of marked posts and placement, particularly in rounds 5-8 where markers are explicitly placed and removed.
  • 💡Work post stitches and clusters with slightly looser tension to avoid puckering or distortion in textured rounds.
  • 💡Block the finished square to open up stitches and reach the correct size; if using steam blocking be careful with acrylic yarn to avoid melting or loss of shape.
  • 💡Follow the invisible join instructions precisely for a seamless finish, and always weave in ends securely to prevent unraveling.

This Marley Mae Square pattern celebrates texture, color, and careful stitchwork in every round. It makes a beautiful addition to blankets, cushions, or a set of decorative squares for gifting. Enjoy exploring colorways and blocking to create a perfect final shape that you will be proud to display. 🧶✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished square measures approximately 11" x 11" when using the recommended 4.5 mm hook and worsted weight cotton yarn.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but changing yarn weight will affect the final size and stitch texture; adjust your hook accordingly and make a gauge swatch first.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of stitches like FPdc, BPsc, clusters, and post stitches is recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this square in 5-7 hours depending on experience and familiarity with post and cluster stitches.