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Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern

Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern
4.6★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.7K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates Lily the Piglet, a soft and huggable amigurumi piglet with a shaped head, embroidered nostrils and poseable limbs. The design features contrasting dark-pink hooves, ears and muzzle for a playful look. You will learn techniques such as the magic ring, invisible decreases and back-post single crochet.

Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Perfect for intermediate crocheters who enjoy shaping and assembly, the pattern includes step-by-step photos for joints and finishing. Use sport weight yarn and a small hook for a neat, dense fabric and professional-looking results.

Why You'll Love This Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines simple shapes with a lot of personality, resulting in a toy that feels handmade but polished. The muzzle and ear details give Lily so much charm, and I enjoy the shaping techniques that make the head look sculpted. Sewing and assembly are satisfying steps that really bring the piece to life. Sharing this little piglet as a gift always brings smiles, which makes the whole process rewarding.

Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize Lily the Piglet by changing colors—try pastel shades for a soft nursery friend or bright contrasting hooves for a playful look.

To make Lily larger, I use bulkier yarn and a larger hook; for a tiny keychain version, I switch to fingering weight yarn and a smaller hook for a mini piglet.

I often add embroidered eyebrows or a little felt heart on the chest to personalize each piglet I gift to friends and family.

Consider swapping safety eyes for embroidered eyes if you want a fully child-safe toy—this also gives a softer, handcrafted look.

Try adding a removable crocheted scarf, tiny hat or a little dress to create seasonal or themed piglets that are fun to style and display.

If you want poseable limbs, add wire inside the arms and legs before closing them up, or use the plastic joint method included for secure movement.

I sometimes add texture by using back loop only (BLO) or front post stitches on certain rounds to create subtle visual interest on the body.

Experiment with stuffing density to change Lily's feel—slightly less stuffing makes a floppy, cuddly toy, while firmer stuffing keeps the shape crisp and structured.

Make a family of piglets by varying hook sizes and yarn weights: one large plush, one medium friend and a tiny pocket pal make a charming set.

I also enjoy embellishing the muzzle with little stitched freckles or adding tiny felt accessories for a unique finish every time.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers when instructed; place a marker at the start of rounds and at specific stitch positions (for example between stitches 24 and 25 on the head) to ensure correct eye placement and shaping. ✗ Overstuffing the head or limbs while working; stuff gradually and add filling a little at a time so shaping remains smooth and easy to adjust. ✗ Changing yarn color without securing tails; knot or weave in ends carefully and consider using the changing yarn method shown so the color join is neat and secure. ✗ Ignoring the instruction to crochet some rounds in back loops only; follow BLO/BPL instructions exactly to achieve the correct texture and fit for hooves and limb joins.

Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern

Make Lily the Piglet, a sweet amigurumi toy you can crochet in soft sport-weight yarn. This pattern walks you through every step — from head shaping and muzzle details to attaching joints and finishing touches — so you can create a cuddly handmade friend. Perfect as a gift or a decorative piece, Lily is charming and full of character.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Sport weight cotton-acrylic blend yarn (Alize 'Cotton Gold' or similar), 329 m = 100 g; approx. 55 g (180 m) light pink (main color)
  • 02
    Sport weight cotton-acrylic blend yarn, approx. 20 g (66 m) dark pink (contrast for muzzle, hooves and ears)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2.50 - 3.00 mm (US size 2/C - 3/D) or according to yarn
  • 02
    9 mm (3/8") safety eyes (or buttons, beads or felt for eyes)
  • 03
    Two 20 mm (4/5") and two 15 mm (3/5") plastic doll joints or alternative joints/buttons and thread
  • 04
    Polyester fiberfill, wool or wadding for stuffing
  • 05
    Black or dark brown embroidery floss for nostrils
  • 06
    Yarn needle for sewing
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Stitch marker

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— HEAD :

Round 1 :

mr, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

inc x 6 (12)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(inc, sc 2) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(sc 3, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

sc, inc, (sc 4, inc) x 5, sc 3 (36)

Round 7 :

(sc 5, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

sc 2, inc, (sc 6, inc) x 5, sc 4 (48)

Round 9 :

(sc 7, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10-15 :

sc in each st (54)

Info :

On round 16 place a stitch marker between stitches 24 and 25 (around the loops on top of the 25th stitch). This marks the center of the face, use it as a guide when placing the eyes.

Round 16-17 :

sc in each st (54)

Round 18 :

sc 11, inc, (sc 2, inc) x 2, sc 13, inc, (sc 2, inc) x 2, sc 16 (60)

Round 19-21 :

sc in each st (60)

Round 22 :

sc 3, dec, (sc 8, dec) x 5, sc 5 (54)

Round 23 :

(sc 7, dec) x 6 (48)

Round 24 :

sc 2, dec, (sc 6, dec) x 5, sc 4 (42)

Info :

Attach safety eyes to either side of the stitch marker, between rows 16 and 17, leaving 10 stitches (count 9 holes) between them.

Info :

Start stuffing the head. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the head firmly.

Round 25 :

(sc 5, dec) x 6 (36)

Round 26 :

sc, dec, (sc 4, dec) x 5, sc 3 (30)

Round 27 :

(sc 3, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 28 :

(dec, sc 2) x 6 (18)

Info :

Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off. Stuff the head firmly.

— MUZZLE :

With dark pink yarn - Round 1 :

mr, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

(inc3 x 2, sc) x 2 (14)

Round 3 :

sc 2, inc x 3, sc 4, inc x 3, sc 2 (20)

Round 4 :

sc 3, inc x 3, sc 7, inc x 3, sc 4 (26)

Round 5 :

bpsc in each st (26)

Round 6-7 :

sc in each st (26)

Info :

Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off. Stuff the muzzle firmly and sew it to the head. Embroider the nostrils. Use yarn to shape the head (see page 7-8).

— EARS (make 2) :

With dark pink yarn - Round 1 :

mr, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

sc in each st (6)

Round 3 :

(inc, sc) x 3 (9)

Round 4 :

(sc 2, inc) x 3 (12)

Round 5 :

sc, inc, (sc 3, inc) x 2, sc 2 (15)

Round 6 :

(sc 4, inc) x 3 (18)

Round 7-9 :

sc in each st (18)

Round 10 :

(dec, sc) x 6 (12)

Info :

Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off. Flatten the ears and sew them to the head (see page 10).

— ARMS (make 2) :

With dark pink yarn - Round 1 :

mr, sc 7 (7)

Round 2 :

inc x 7 (14)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 7 (21)

Info :

Crochet round 4 in back loops only.

Round 4 :

sc in each st (21)

Round 5 :

sc 7, dec, (sc, dec) x 2, sc 6 (18)

Round 6 :

sc 4, dec, sc 7, dec, sc 3 (16)

Round 7 :

sc 8, dec, sc 6 (15)

Info :

Sc in next stitch, count it as the end of the round from now on.

With light pink yarn - Round 8 :

sc in each st (15)

Round 9 :

sc 7, dec, sc 6 (14)

Info :

Stuff firmly. Turn the arm so the end of the round is at the back of the arm. Make a long vertical stitch along the front of the hoof with light pink yarn, going from round 7 straight down, draw it very tight and knot the yarn ends together (see page 8).

Info :

Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the arms firmly.

Round 10 :

sc in each st (14)

Round 11 :

sc 7, dec, sc 5 (13)

Round 12 :

sc in each st (13)

Round 13 :

sc 7, dec, sc 4 (12)

Round 14 :

sc in each st (12)

Round 15 :

sc 7, dec, sc 3 (11)

Round 16-23 :

sc in each st (11)

Info :

On the left arm only, sc in next 6 stitches. Count the last sc as the end of the round from now on.

Info :

Attach the 15 mm joint between rounds 22 and 23, placing it so the stem is facing straight towards the body (see page 9).

Round 24 :

sc 5, dec x 3 (8)

Round 25 :

dec x 2, leave rest of the sts unworked (6)

Info :

Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail, and fasten off. Pick up all the remaining stitches and close the opening (see page 9).

— LEGS (make 2) :

With dark pink yarn - Round 1 :

mr, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

inc x 6 (12)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Info :

Sc in next stitch, count it as the end of the round from now on.

With light pink yarn - Round 8 :

sc in each st (15)

Round 9 :

sc 7, dec, sc 6 (14)

Info :

Stuff firmly. Turn the leg so the end of the round is at the back of the leg. Make a long vertical stitch along the front of the hoof with light pink yarn, going from round 8 straight down, draw it very tight and knot the yarn ends together (see page 8).

Info :

Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the legs firmly.

Round 10 :

sc in each st (14)

Round 11 :

sc 7, dec, sc 5 (13)

Round 12 :

sc in each st (13)

Round 13 :

sc in each st (13)

Round 14 :

sc 7, dec, sc 6 (14)

Round 15 :

sc in each st (14)

Round 16 :

sc 7, dec, sc 5 (13)

Round 17-28 :

sc in each st (13)

Info :

On the left leg only, sc in next 7 stitches. Count the last sc as the end of the round from now on.

Info :

Attach the 20 mm joint between rounds 27 and 28, placing it so the stem is facing straight towards the body (see page 9).

Round 29 :

sc 9, dec, sc 2 (12)

Round 30 :

sc 2, dec x 5 (7)

Round 31 :

sc, dec, leave the rest of the sts unworked (6)

Info :

Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail, and fasten off. Pick up all the remaining stitches and close the opening (see page 9).

— BODY :

With light pink yarn - Round 1 :

mr, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

inc x 6 (12)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(inc, sc 2) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(sc 3, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

sc, inc, (sc 4, inc) x 5, sc 3 (36)

Round 7 :

(sc 5, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8-14 :

sc in each st (42)

Info :

Turn the body so the last stitch of round 14 is at the center of the back. Attach the legs to either side of the body, between rounds 8 and 9 (see page 9).

Round 15 :

sc 9, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 9 (38)

Round 16 :

sc 18, dec, sc 18 (37)

Round 17 :

(sc 11, dec) x 2, sc 11 (35)

Round 18 :

sc 4, dec, sc 24, dec, sc 3 (33)

Info :

Start stuffing the body. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the body firmly.

Round 19 :

sc 16, dec, sc 15 (32)

Round 20 :

dec, sc 30 (31)

Round 21 :

sc 7, dec, sc 14, dec, sc 6 (29)

Round 22 :

sc 14, dec, sc 13 (28)

Round 23 :

sc 10, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 8 (26)

Round 24 :

(dec, sc 11) x 2 (24)

Round 25 :

sc 6, dec, sc 9, dec, sc 5 (22)

Round 26 :

sc 9, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 7 (20)

Round 27 :

dec, sc 18 (19)

Round 28 :

sc 9, dec, sc 8 (18)

Round 29 :

sc in each st (18)

Info :

Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn and fasten off. Attach the arms to either side of the body between rows 24 and 25 (see page 9). Finish stuffing the body.

Info :

Sew the head to the body (see page 10).

— TAIL :

With light pink yarn - Round 1 :

ch 11, starting in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in each ch, crocheted into the loops on the back of the chain (20)

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off.

Info :

Sew the tail to the body just above round 9.

— ASSEMBLY & FINISHING :

Head Assembly :

Attach safety eyes after finishing round 24. Place the eye to either side of the stitch marker between rows 16 and 17 (10 stitches/9 holes between them) then push washer into place.

Muzzle Assembly :

Sew the muzzle to the head with whip stitch, placing it just below round 15. Embroider nostrils with black or dark brown embroidery floss making a couple of short vertical stitches to either side of round 2.

Head Shaping :

Use yarn to shape the head by inserting needle from the bottom of the head up next to the eye, then insert right next to the other eye and bring to bottom. Grab yarn tails and pull gently to shape, knot yarn tails together.

Arms & Legs Shaping :

Use yarn to shape the hands and feet: finish the hoof, stuff firmly, thread yarn onto a needle, insert from top leaving a short tail, go down above the first round, then come back up through the opening and draw stitch very tight. Knot yarn tails to secure.

Joint Insertion :

Insert plastic doll joints into limbs by pushing the post through the fabric, then place the other disk inside the body and lock in place, or attach buttons with yarn and knot securely as described in the joint instructions.

Body Assembly :

Turn the body so the end of the round is at the center of the back, attach legs between rounds 8 and 9 and attach arms between rounds 24 and 25. Sew head to body with whip or mattress stitch and add more stuffing before closing seam.

Final Finishing :

Weave in yarn tails, hide ends and trim. Add any embroidered details and adjust stuffing and shaping as needed for a neat finished piece.

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew the ears to the head: place each ear just below round 6 of the head, push the ear flat and sew it to the head inserting the needle through both layers.
  • Sew the muzzle to the head with whip or mattress stitch, placing it just below round 15; embroider nostrils with dark floss and shape the head using a threading technique as shown.
  • Attach the legs to either side of the body between rounds 8 and 9, and attach the arms to either side of the body between rounds 24 and 25 before finishing stuffing.
  • Insert the plastic doll joints into the limbs by pushing the post through the limb fabric and locking the disk inside the body, ensuring the stem faces straight toward the body for correct positioning.
  • Sew the head to the body with whip or mattress stitch, adding a bit more stuffing before closing the seam to ensure a smooth join.

Important Notes

  • 💡Work in a continuous spiral; do not join rounds or turn your work unless the pattern instructs otherwise.
  • 💡Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the end or the beginning of a round and to locate the center of the face for eye placement.
  • 💡Work all stitches in both loops unless instructed otherwise, and follow the back-loop or post-stitch instructions when specified for correct texture.

This delightful Lily the Piglet pattern brings a tiny, cuddly companion to life with clear shaping and sweet details. It includes steps for joints, stuffing, and finishing so your piglet is sturdy and lovable. Make one as a handmade gift or keep it as a charming shelf buddy! 🧶🐷

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 26 cm (10 1/4") from head to toe when crocheted with sport weight cotton-acrylic blend and a 2.50 mm hook.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but this will affect the final size and density; adjust your hook size accordingly and be mindful that joints and stuffing needs may change.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and requires familiarity with magic ring, single crochet, increases and decreases, and some assembly skills like sewing and inserting joints.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though time may vary depending on experience level, finishing details and assembly choices.

What kind of joints are recommended?

The pattern recommends plastic doll joints (two 20 mm and two 15 mm) for poseable limbs, but you can also use safety eyes, buttons and strong thread or sewn-in joints depending on availability.