🧶 Beautiful ✨ Detailed 💝 Adorable

Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern

Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern
4.0★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.8K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates Lily the Piglet, a cute amigurumi with a rounded head, floppy ears, a snout muzzle and jointed limbs. The design uses sport weight cotton-acrylic yarn and small hooks for tight stitches and neat shaping. You will learn techniques like the magic ring, invisible decreases and simple shaping for a polished finished toy.

Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Includes full round-by-round instructions for head, body, arms, legs, ears, muzzle and tail plus assembly photos. Clear abbreviations and materials list make it easy to follow and reproduce.

Why You'll Love This Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it takes a classic amigurumi silhouette and gives it a soft, friendly personality with simple shaping. I enjoyed designing the muzzle and ears to be expressive while keeping construction straightforward. I love that it uses a sport weight yarn so the finished piglet is cuddly but still small enough to display. Sewing and shaping the head is very satisfying — the little details really bring Lily to life. I hope you enjoy making her as much as I enjoyed designing her.

Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize Lily by changing colors — try pastel tones, or a two-tone body for a playful twist.

If you want a bigger piglet use a bulkier yarn and a larger hook; for a tiny keychain version use fingering yarn and a smaller hook.

I often add embroidered eyebrows or a tiny felt bow for extra personality and character.

Swap safety eyes for embroidered eyes to make the toy toddler-safe or change eye size to alter the expression.

Use a fuzzy or textured yarn for a whimsical soft finish, especially for a gift for a baby or toddler.

You can make clothing or accessories — a little scarf, hat or dress — using simple rounds or chains to expand the project into a mini collection.

For posability, try inserting a thin wire into the limbs during stuffing or use ball-and-socket joints for more movement.

Mix and match yarn fiber contents to get different drape and weight — cotton blends for firmness, acrylic for plush softness.

I like to make a set in different sizes to create a whole pig family — change hook and yarn to scale up or down while using the same round instructions.

Experiment with facial placement and muzzle size to create different expressions; moving the eyes slightly higher or lower changes the look dramatically.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the stitch marker on round 16 will make finding the center of the face difficult; place a marker between stitches 24 and 25 to guide eye placement. ✗ Not stuffing gradually causes lumps and uneven shaping; add small amounts of fiberfill after every few rounds and shape as you go. ✗ Forgetting to change yarn color exactly where instructed will create messy color joins; follow the color-change rounds carefully and weave tails in neatly. ✗ Ignoring joint placement instructions can lead to crooked limbs; attach plastic doll joints or sew with buttons according to the rounds specified for correct orientation.

Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern

Make an adorable Lily the Piglet amigurumi with this detailed crochet pattern. You will work in spiral rounds, shape the head and body, and assemble the pieces with clear step-by-step instructions and photos. Perfect for making a sweet handmade gift or a cuddly nursery friend — just follow the rounds and assembly notes to bring Lily to life.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Sport weight cotton-acrylic blend (Alize Cotton Gold or similar), 329 m = 100 g; approximately 55 g (180 m) light pink for main body
  • 02
    Sport weight cotton-acrylic blend, approximately 20 g (66 m) dark pink for muzzle, hooves and ear detail

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook 2.50 mm - 3.00 mm (US size 2/C - 3/D) depending on yarn and tension
  • 02
    Polyester fiberfill for stuffing
  • 03
    9 mm (3/8") safety eyes or buttons (2 pieces)
  • 04
    Two 20 mm (4/5") and two 15 mm (3/5") plastic doll joints or safety eyes/buttons and thread
  • 05
    Black or dark brown embroidery floss for nostrils
  • 06
    Yarn needle for sewing
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Stitch marker

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Round 1 :

mr, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

inc x 6 (12)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(inc, sc 2) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(sc 3, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

sc, inc, (sc 4, inc) x 5, sc 3 (36)

Round 7 :

(sc 5, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

sc 2, inc, (sc 6, inc) x 5, sc 4 (48)

Round 9 :

(sc 7, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10-15 :

sc in each st (54)

Info :

On round 16 place a stitch marker between stitches 24 and 25 (around the loops on top of the 25th stitch). This marks the center of the face, use it as a guide when placing the eyes.

Round 16-17 :

sc in each st (54)

Round 18 :

sc 11, inc, (sc 2, inc) x 2, sc 13, inc, (sc 2, inc) x 2, sc 16 (60)

Round 19-21 :

sc in each st (60)

Round 22 :

sc 3, dec, (sc 8, dec) x 5, sc 5 (54)

Round 23 :

(sc 7, dec) x 6 (48)

Round 24 :

sc 2, dec, (sc 6, dec) x 5, sc 4 (42)

Info :

Attach safety eyes to either side of the stitch marker, between rows 16 and 17, leaving 10 stitches (count 9 holes) between them (see page 7).

Round 25 :

(sc 5, dec) x 6 (36)

Round 26 :

sc, dec, (sc 4, dec) x 5, sc 3 (30)

Round 27 :

(sc 3, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 28 :

(dec, sc 2) x 6 (18)

Info :

Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off. Stuff the head firmly.

— Muzzle :

Round 1 :

With dark pink yarn: mr, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

With dark pink yarn: (inc3 x 2, sc) x 2 (14)

Infos :

Sc in next stitch, count it as the end of the round from now on.

Round 3 :

sc 2, inc x 3, sc 4, inc x 3, sc 2 (20)

Round 4 :

sc 3, inc x 3, sc 7, inc x 3, sc 4 (26)

Round 5 :

bpsc in each st (26)

Round 6-7 :

sc in each st (26)

Info :

Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off.

Info :

Stuff the muzzle firmly and sew it to the head. Embroider the nostrils. Use yarn to shape the head (see page 7 - 8).

— Ears (make 2) :

Round 1 :

With dark pink yarn: mr, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

sc in each st (6)

Round 3 :

(inc, sc) x 3 (9)

Round 4 :

(sc 2, inc) x 3 (12)

Round 5 :

sc, inc, (sc 3, inc) x 2, sc 2 (15)

Round 6 :

(sc 4, inc) x 3 (18)

Round 7-9 :

sc in each st (18)

Round 10 :

(dec, sc) x 6 (12)

Info :

Sl st in next stitch. Cut yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off. Flatten the ears and sew them to the head (see page 10).

— Arms (make 2) :

Round 1 :

With dark pink yarn: mr, sc 7 (7)

Round 2 :

inc x 7 (14)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 7 (21)

Note :

Crochet round 4 in back loops only.

Round 4 :

sc in each st (21)

Round 5 :

sc 7, dec, (sc, dec) x 2, sc 6 (18)

Round 6 :

sc 4, dec, sc 7, dec, sc 3 (16)

Round 7 :

sc 8, dec, sc 6 (15)

Info :

Sc in next stitch, count it as the end of the round from now on.

With light pink yarn - Round 8 :

sc in each st (15)

Round 9 :

sc 7, dec, sc 6 (14)

Instructions :

Stuff firmly. Turn the arm so the end of the round is at the back of the arm. Make a long vertical stitch along the front of the hoof with light pink yarn, going from round 7 straight down, draw it very tight and knot the yarn ends together (see page 8). Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the arms firmly.

Round 10 :

sc in each st (14)

Round 11 :

sc 7, dec, sc 5 (13)

Round 12 :

sc in each st (13)

Round 13 :

sc 7, dec, sc 4 (12)

Round 14 :

sc in each st (12)

Round 15 :

sc 7, dec, sc 3 (11)

Round 16-23 :

sc in each st (11)

Info :

On the left arm only, sc in next 6 stitches. Count the last sc as the end of the round from now on. Attach the 15 mm joint between rounds 22 and 23, placing it so the stem is facing straight towards the body (see page 9).

Round 24 :

sc 5, dec x 3 (8)

Round 25 :

dec x 2, leave rest of the sts unworked (6)

Info :

Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail, and fasten off. Pick up all the remaining stitches and close the opening (see page 9).

— Legs (make 2) :

Round 1 :

With dark pink yarn: mr, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

inc x 6 (12)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Info :

...

Round 24 :

sc 5, dec x 3 (8)

Round 25 :

dec x 2, leave rest of the sts unworked (6)

Info :

Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail, and fasten off. Pick up all the remaining stitches and close the opening (see page 9).

Continue :

On the left leg only, sc in next 7 stitches. Count the last sc as the end of the round from now on. Attach the 20 mm joint between rounds 27 and 28, placing it so the stem is facing straight towards the body (see page 9).

Round 29 :

sc 9, dec, sc 2 (12)

Round 30 :

sc 2, dec x 5 (7)

Round 31 :

sc, dec, leave the rest of the sts unworked (6)

Info :

Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail, and fasten off. Pick up all the remaining stitches and close the opening (see page 9).

— Body :

Round 1 :

With light pink yarn: mr, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

inc x 6 (12)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(inc, sc 2) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(sc 3, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

sc, inc, (sc 4, inc) x 5, sc 3 (36)

Round 7 :

(sc 5, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8-14 :

sc in each st (42)

Info :

Turn the body so the last stitch of round 14 is at the center of the back. Attach the legs to either side of the body, between rounds 8 and 9 (see page 9).

Round 15 :

sc 9, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 9 (38)

Round 16 :

sc 18, dec, sc 18 (37)

Round 17 :

(sc 11, dec) x 2, sc 11 (35)

Round 18 :

sc 4, dec, sc 24, dec, sc 3 (33)

Info :

Start stuffing the body. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the body firmly.

Round 19 :

sc 16, dec, sc 15 (32)

Round 20 :

dec, sc 30 (31)

Round 21 :

sc 7, dec, sc 14, dec, sc 6 (29)

Round 22 :

sc 14, dec, sc 13 (28)

Round 23 :

sc 10, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 8 (26)

Round 24 :

(dec, sc 11) x 2 (24)

Round 25 :

sc 6, dec, sc 9, dec, sc 5 (22)

Round 26 :

sc 9, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 7 (20)

Round 27 :

dec, sc 18 (19)

Round 28 :

sc 9, dec, sc 8 (18)

Round 29 :

sc in each st (18)

Info :

Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn and fasten off. Attach the arms to either side of the body between rows 24 and 25 (see page 9). Finish stuffing the body.

Info :

Sew the head to the body (see page 10).

— Tail :

Round 1 :

With light pink yarn: ch 11, starting in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in each ch, crocheted into the loops on the back of the chain (20)

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off.

Info :

Sew the tail to the body (see page 10).

Assembly Instructions

  • Place the ear just below round 6 of the head, push the ear flat and sew it to the head inserting the needle through both layers.
  • Sew the muzzle to the head with a whip stitch, placing it just below round 15, then embroider the nostrils with dark embroidery floss.
  • Attach safety eyes to either side of the stitch marker between rows 16 and 17, leaving 10 stitches between them and knot the yarn tails inside the head.
  • Insert plastic doll joints or sew with button-and-thread between the rounds specified: attach 15 mm joint between rounds 22-23 of the arms and 20 mm between rounds 27-28 of the legs, placing stems facing toward the body.
  • Sew the head to the body with whip or mattress stitch (I prefer mattress stitch), adding extra stuffing before closing the seam.
  • Sew the tail to the body just above round 9 and securely hide all ends inside the body.

Important Notes

  • 💡Work in a continuous spiral; do not join rounds or turn your work unless instructed otherwise in the pattern.
  • 💡Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the end or the beginning of a round for accurate counting and placement.
  • 💡Stuff pieces firmly but not overly tight to maintain shape; add small amounts of stuffing after every few rounds for best results.
  • 💡Attach limbs and joints as instructed and test placement before locking washers or knotting yarn to ensure correct orientation.
  • 💡Weave in ends and secure knots under seams where possible to hide yarn tails and create a tidy finish.

This sweet Lily the Piglet pattern is perfect for gifting or decorating a nursery with handmade charm. Follow the step-by-step rounds and photos to create a polished, cuddly companion you will treasure. Enjoy the satisfying process of shaping, sewing and finishing your little piglet! 🧶🐷

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 26 cm (10 1/4") from head to toe when crocheted with sport weight cotton-acrylic blend and a 2.50 mm hook.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but this will affect the final size and stitch tension; adjust the hook size accordingly and expect a larger or smaller finished piglet.

Do I need special tools to attach the limbs?

The pattern suggests plastic doll joints (20 mm and 15 mm) or you can use buttons and strong thread; choose what is available and ensure joints are securely attached.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though time may vary based on experience level, assembly and finishing details.