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Hyacinth Top Written Pattern

Hyacinth Top Written Pattern
4.8★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.3K Made This
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Beginner Friendly Level

Perfect for those just starting their crochet journey, with clear instructions and simple techniques

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Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Casual Chic

Relaxed style with a modern twist, perfect for everyday wear while maintaining that handcrafted uniqueness.

About This Hyacinth Top Written Pattern

This pattern creates the Hyacinth Top — a made-to-measure, lacy crochet top with an empire silhouette, supportive cups and long back ties that can be tied into a bow. The design uses two hook sizes to give structure to the cups and a lacey flared body for a flattering drape. It is beginner-friendly and intended to be customised to your measurements for the best fit.

Hyacinth Top Written Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The sample shown is made from DK weight acrylic (approx 200g) on a 32" bust and 27" underbust. The pattern is split into four parts: Cups, Back Ties, Body and Straps for clarity and easy fitting.

Why You'll Love This Hyacinth Top Written Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it lets you tailor the fit to your body — that makes every piece feel custom-made. I enjoyed designing the combination of simple structural cups with a lightweight, lacy skirt to give a balance of support and feminine detail. The pattern uses basic stitches, so I can recommend it to friends who are newer to crochet while still offering room for small custom touches. I also love seeing how different yarns and hook sizes transform the look, from delicate lacey tops to chunkier, boho versions.

Hyacinth Top Written Pattern step 1 - construction progress Hyacinth Top Written Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Hyacinth Top Written Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Hyacinth Top Written Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love recommending colour swaps for this pattern; you can change the body to a contrasting colour while keeping the cups neutral for a modern look.

If you want a softer, more romantic version, I often use a slightly lighter weight yarn and a smaller hook for a denser lace effect.

To make a boho, chunkier top I sometimes use a bulky yarn and a larger hook throughout; this gives a chunkier texture and a shorter finished length.

I also experiment with adding a small picot or shell edge to the bottom of the lace body for a decorative finish that adds a bit of swing.

Want the cups to be more supportive? Try inserting a thin elastic band inside the lower edge or add an extra dc row under the cups for reinforcement.

I sometimes embroider tiny flowers or add beads to the lace rows to give a subtle decorative touch that really personalises the top.

If you like straps with more coverage, repeat the strap lace rows an extra time before finishing; this will build thickness without changing the overall design.

For a cropped or longer silhouette, simply repeat or reduce the number of Iris stitch rows in the body until you reach the desired length.

I often test the fit by tying the cups on before permanently fastening any straps; this lets me adjust stitch markers and chain lengths for a perfect fit.

Finally, I encourage swapping yarn fibres — cotton breathes for summer, acrylic keeps shape for everyday wear, and blends can add drape or structure depending on what you prefer.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Using only the larger hook for the cups can make the fabric too loose; use the smaller hook (3.0mm) for cup structure and switch to the larger hook for the lace body. ✗ Not checking symmetry after tying the cups around your body will give uneven results; always mark the stitches at the knot and count stitches from center to make both sides equal. ✗ Skipping stitch markers when joining or marking ch1 spaces makes placement inaccurate; place markers at the start, at the knot and at the lace transition points. ✗ Overstuffing or pulling yarn too tight when testing fit can distort the cup shape; work with natural tension and check fit on your body before finishing seams.

Hyacinth Top Written Pattern

Make a flattering made-to-measure Hyacinth Top with a lacy empire silhouette that suits many body shapes. This beginner-friendly pattern uses basic stitches and two hook sizes to create a structured cup and a flowing lace body. You will get clear step-by-step instructions for cups, back ties, body and straps so you can customise the fit. Perfect for a weekend make and for adapting to different yarns and sizes.

Beginner Friendly 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Hyacinth Top Written Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    DK weight yarn (sample used Indophil 4ply acrylic) – approx 200g for a 32" bust sample
  • 02
    Sport weight / weight 2 yarn – amounts by size: XS-S 200-250g, M-L 250-300g, XL-XXL 300-350g
  • 03
    Extra small amounts of contrast or detail yarn if desired (not required)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 3.0mm (use 1 size smaller than recommended hook size of your yarn) for structure
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 5.0mm (or at least 1 size bigger than recommended for lace effect)
  • 03
    Stitch markers
  • 04
    Tape measure
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Yarn needle for weaving ends

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Part I. Cups :

Intro :

For this part, it is important to use a small hook especially if you have a loose tension to make sure that there will be enough coverage for your breast area.

Step 1 :

Make a ch with a length equal to measurement A then add ch2. Dc on the 3rd ch from the hook, dc until you reach the end of the row. For reference, I chained 18 + 2.

Step 2 :

Ch2, flip your work. Dc on each st until you reach the end of the row.

Step 3 :

Repeat Step 2 until the height of your work is equal to measurement B. For reference, I made 8 rows.

Step 4 :

Once you reach measurement B, add 2 more dc on the last st. This means that you should have a total of 3 dc on your last st. Continue adding dc to the side of your work. Put 2 dc on each dc post until you reach the last dc post.

Step 5 :

Ch2, flip your work. Dc on each st until you reach the end of the row.

Step 6 :

Repeat Step 5 until you reach Measurement C. Make sure your last row ends up on the top of the cup. If the last row equal to measurement C ends up on the bottom of the cup, I suggest doing one less row to make sure you end up on top of the cup.

Step 7 :

Mark the 8th st from the bottom of your cup. Ch2, flip your work, dc on each st until you reach the st marker. Remove the marker. Hdc on each of the next 3 sts, sc on the last 5 sts.

Step 8 :

Ch1, flip your work. Sc on the 1st 5 sts. Hdc on the next 3 sts, dc on the next st. 2dc on the next st. Dc on each of the next sts until you reach the end of the row.

Step 9 :

Repeat Steps 7-8 until you reach measurement D. Ch 1, cut the yarn and fasten off. For reference, I added 2 rows after Step 6. (1 row Step 7, 1 row Step 8)

Info :

Repeat Steps 1 to 9 for the other cup.

Info :

Once you have created the other cup, connect them together by adding sc on the wrong side. The wrong side means the side of the top that will be inside when you wear it. You can choose which side it will be. How much sc you add will depend on how much coverage you want. You can also skip this step if you want to have a deep neckline. For reference, I made 8 sc.

— Part II. Back Ties :

Step 1 :

Turn your cups upside down. Work facing the wrong side of the top. Insert your hook at the bottom of the dc post at the 3rd row, make a sl st. Now that you have connected your yarn, make a ch with a length equal to measurement E then add ch2. Dc on the 3rd ch from the hook, dc until you reach the end of the row. Sl st into the dc post of the cup. For reference, I chained 130 + 2. Note: For those with fuller breasts who want more support and coverage, you can add more rows but make sure you have an odd number of rows (This pattern proposes only 3 rows that's why we started at the 3rd row).

Step 2 :

Sl st again into the dc post on top. Flip your work. Dc on each st until you reach the end of the row.

Step 3 :

Ch2, flip your work. Dc on each st until you reach the end of the row.

Step 4 :

Now you have reached the bottom of your cups, sc on each st of the cups. Once you reach the part of the cups with dc posts, add 2 sc per dc post. Continue until you reach the sc post, add 1 sc on each sc post. Continue until you reach the end of the other cup.

Step 5 :

Make a ch with a number equal to what you did in Step 1 including the additional ch2. Dc on the 3rd ch from the hook, dc until you reach the end of the row. Sl st into the dc post of the cup (just like what you did on the other side).

Step 6 :

Sl st again into the dc post on top. Flip your work. Dc on each st until you reach the end of the row.

Step 7 :

Ch2, flip your work. Dc on each st until you reach the end of the row. Sl st into the dc post of the cup. Ch1, cut the yarn and fasten off.

— Part III. Body :

Info :

Before starting, you need to check how your work fits so far. Tie your cups around your body. Make sure you tie it in the middle but not too tight (just like how you would wear it). Mark the dc next to the knot on both sides. Remove the top and check where you placed the st markers. It should be symmetrical. To ensure the symmetry, count the number of sts from the center (start counting from the st after the sc join in the cups) to the st marker on both sides. You should get an equal number of sts. If not, choose which st marker you want to adjust until you get an equal number of sts from both sides. The total number of sts from both sides must be a multiple of 2. Just to make sure, I recommend checking the fit again by tying it one more time with the st markers on. The st markers should be placed just outside the knot. For reference, I marked the 69th st on each side, total of 136 sts in between the 2 markers since I will not be working on the sts where I attached the st marker.

Step 1 :

Insert your yarn into the st next to the st marker. Ch2, dc on each st until you reach the other st marker.

Step 2 :

Ch 2. Flip your work, dc on the 1st st. *Ch1, skip 1 st, dc on the next 2 sts*. Repeat ** until you reach the end of the row.

Info :

From this point on, you will be working with hook 5.0 (or your preferred bigger hook size) to make the lace impression. I find the lace effect better if you use a relatively larger hook. Take note also that all ch2 at the beginning of each row counts as a dc.

Step 3 :

Ch2, flip your work. For this row, you will be making a dc V-st on each ch1 sp by making a dc-ch1-dc cluster on each ch1 sp until you reach the end of the row. Dc on the last st.

Step 4 :

Ch2, flip your work. For this row, you will be making an Iris st on each ch1 sp by making a dc-dc-ch1-dc-dc cluster on each ch1 sp until you reach the end of the row. Dc on the last st.

Step 5 :

Repeat Step 4 until you reach your desired length. Ch1, cut the yarn and fasten off.

— Part IV. Straps :

Intro :

Before starting, mark the part of the back ties that is 1" away from the 1st st and last dc of the body of the top. You will attach your straps here later. Fit the top and check the length of the strap needed to connect the tip of your cups to the marked st. We will call this measurement Z. For reference, my measurement Z is 14 inches.

Step 1 :

Insert your yarn into the topmost st of your cup. Make a ch with a length equal to measurement Z in multiples of 3 + 1. Make sure that you consider yarn stretch when making the chain. Sl st into the st next to the marker. Make sure the ch is not twisted when you make the ch and connect it to the back. Keep in mind that the strap is worked away from the 1-inch gap.

Step 2 :

Sl st into the next 2 sts. Flip your work. Dc on each st until you reach the cups. 2dc on each dc post until you reach the end of the cup. Sl st into the ch that matches the height of your dc. At this point since most yarn stretches, I suggest you check the fit of the straps if it is too short, too long or just right. Note: In my version, I only made 1 row of dc for the straps but for those with fuller breasts who need more support, you can repeat this step once more before proceeding to Step 3.

Step 3 :

Sl st into the next 2 sts. Flip your work, dc on the 1st st. *Ch1, skip 1 st, dc on the next 2 sts*. Repeat ** until you reach the end of the row. Sl st into the ch that matches the height of your dc.

Info :

From this point on, you will be working with hook 5.0 (or your preferred bigger hook size) to make the lace impression. You may still use the smaller hook size when doing a sl st at the beginning and end of each row as you may find it difficult to make a sl st with a bigger hook size. Before you continue, mark the 3rd ch1 sp from the tip of your cup. The actual position of your ch1 sp maybe different as compared to that in the photo but start counting from the ch1 sp closest to the tip of your cup. You may adjust the position of the st marker depending on where you want the lacey part of your strap to end.

Step 4 :

Sl st into the next 2 sts. Flip your work. Dc on the 1st st. For the next sts, you will be making a dc V-st on each ch1 sp by making a dc-ch1-dc cluster on each ch1 sp until you reach the second to the last ch1 sp before the marker. For the second to the last ch1 sp, make an hdc-ch1-hdc cluster then sl st on the last ch1 sp.

Step 5 :

Ch1. Flip your work. Sc on the next ch1 sp. For the next sts, you will be making an Iris st on each ch1 sp by making a dc-dc-ch1-dc-dc cluster on each ch1 sp until you reach the end of the row. Dc on the last st. Sl st into the ch that matches the height of your dc.

Step 6 :

Sl st into the next 2 sts. Flip your work. Dc on the 1st st. For the next sts, you will be making an Iris st on each ch1 sp by making a dc-dc-ch1-dc-dc cluster on each ch1 sp until you reach the last ch1 sp. For the last ch1 sp, sl st. Ch1, cut the yarn and fasten off. Note: In my version, I ended at this row but for those who want thicker straps, you may repeat this step until you reach your desired strap thickness before cutting your yarn.

Info :

Repeat Steps 1-6 for the other strap.

Finished :

Congratulations! You have finished creating the Hyacinth top. Weave in ends and block lightly if desired. Fit and adjust ties and straps to your comfort.

Assembly Instructions

  • Connect the two cups on the wrong side by adding single crochet stitches between them to close the center gap; how many sc depends on how deep you want the neckline—8 sc was used for reference.
  • Tie the cups around your body to check the fit and place stitch markers at the dc next to the knot on both sides; adjust markers so the counts from center to markers are equal.
  • Attach the back ties by inserting the hook at the bottom of the dc post at the 3rd row and working the chain length equal to measurement E, then work the rows as instructed and fasten off.
  • Sew or slip stitch the strap ends to the marked points on the back ties (about 1" away from the first and last dc of the body) ensuring straps are not twisted and are symmetrical.
  • Try the top on and adjust strap length and tie tension; check that lace strap sections align and that the body lace panels flare evenly around the torso.

Important Notes

  • 💡Chains made at the beginning of each row do NOT count as a stitch unless otherwise stated, so always follow the pattern notes for counting.
  • 💡Unless otherwise specified, use the smaller hook (3.0mm or your preferred smaller hook size) for the cups to ensure adequate coverage and structure.
  • 💡When working with stretchable yarn, consider the yarn stretch when measuring your work against your body to avoid a too-tight or too-loose fit.

Thank you for making the Hyacinth Top — a custom-fit crochet project that blends structure and lace for a flattering everyday piece. I hope this pattern inspired you to make a top that fits and flatters your measurements perfectly. Share your finished photos and tag @sunshinesandcrafts so I can see your beautiful makes! 🧶✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

This is a made-to-measure pattern so the finished size depends on your measurements A-E; the sample measures for a 32" bust with a 27" underbust.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but the cup coverage and lace look will change; the pattern recommends DK or sport weight for the intended drape and lace effect.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated beginner-friendly but assumes you know basic stitches like ch, sc, dc and clusters; following the step-by-step parts will guide you through fitting and finishing.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though time may vary depending on experience, fit adjustments and whether you make both cups and straps first or work continuously.