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Giant Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern

Giant Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern
4.7★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
1.6K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Giant Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a large Snorlax plush worked mostly in continuous rounds with a separate belly patch and many sewn-on details. It uses Bernat Blanket yarn to produce a soft, squishy texture and an oversized, huggable finished piece. The design includes full instructions for head, body, arms, feet, ears, claws, foot pads and assembly so you can recreate the exact cuddly look.

Giant Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Techniques used include magic ring starts, increases and decreases, working in rows for the belly patch and careful sewing around the posts for a neat finish. The pattern is photo-documented and written for intermediate crocheters.

Why You'll Love This Giant Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it turns bulky Bernat Blanket yarn into a giant, lovably squishy Snorlax that is fun to sew up. I enjoyed the shaping work—especially making the oval body and the separate belly patch which gives the face and tummy a clean look. The pattern lets me customize size and color easily, and I love how each sewn detail (ears, claws, foot pads) adds to the character. Seeing the finished plush sitting on the couch always makes me smile and I hope you find that same joy while making it.

Giant Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Giant Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Giant Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Giant Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this Snorlax by changing the yarn color or using different Bernat Blanket shades to create your own palette.

You can make a smaller version by switching to worsted weight yarn and using a 3mm-4mm hook; this will create a much tinier, pocket-sized plush.

I often add embroidered details or felt accessories like a tiny scarf or a bow to make each Snorlax unique and gift-ready.

If you prefer a firmer toy, use less stuffing and tighter tension; for a more squishy cuddle pal, add more stuffing and keep your stitches looser only if they remain secure.

Try using a variegated bulky yarn for an interesting textured look on the body while keeping the belly a solid color for contrast.

I sometimes add a few beads or a small sachet of lavender inside the stuffing for a calming scent in the plush without affecting the exterior.

To change the expression, move the placement of the embroidered eyes and mouth or use felt cutouts for a very different personality.

Make a family set by adjusting the scale – one large, one medium, one small – using the same pattern but different yarn weights and hook sizes.

I also recommend experimenting with different stuffing densities in the limbs versus the body to create a more stable base for sitting poses.

For a display-only version, you can insert a small piece of card or plastic in the base of the feet to help the Snorlax stand or lean sturdily against a wall.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the long tail when fastening off the body can make sewing the head difficult; always leave a very long tail for secure stitching. ✗ Not stuffing the body and head firmly enough will make the Snorlax collapse into a floppy shape; add stuffing gradually and use plenty to achieve the intended squishy form. ✗ Ignoring stitch counts during increases and decreases leads to uneven shaping; count stitches at the end of each round to ensure correct numbers. ✗ Sewing around the wrong part of the stitch (not the posts) will result in a messy edge; sew around the posts of the stitches on the border for a neat finish. ✗ Not pinning the belly patch carefully can cause misalignment with the head and body; pin and count stitches to align rows 27-28 of the patch with the neck area before sewing.

Giant Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern

Create a giant, huggable Snorlax using Bernat Blanket yarn and simple amigurumi techniques. This pattern walks you through making a large stuffed Snorlax with clear shaping and assembly steps so you can sew a cuddly plush that stands about 26 inches tall. Perfect for gift-making or a cozy handmade companion for your couch. Follow the full step-by-step instructions and photos to guide you through each piece.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Giant Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Bernat Blanket yarn - Lagoon (regular) or Lapis (shiny) - 3 large skeins (main body)
  • 02
    Bernat Blanket yarn - Birch - 1 skein (belly, face, feet)
  • 03
    Bernat Blanket yarn - Taupe - less than 1 skein (foot pads - optional)
  • 04
    Bernat Blanket yarn - White - small skein (claws, details)
  • 05
    Bernat Blanket yarn - Black - a small amount (optional for eyes & mouth embroidery)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 7mm (or size that produces tight stitches with Bernat Blanket yarn)
  • 02
    Polyester stuffing - approx 5 lbs (lots of stuffing for this large project)
  • 03
    Small piece of white felt for teeth
  • 04
    Stitch marker
  • 05
    Sewing needle / yarn needle for assembly
  • 06
    Scissors
  • 07
    Fabric glue (optional, for eye shaping)
  • 08
    Pins (T-pins recommended for pinning the belly patch and parts during assembly)

Progress Tracker

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— Notes :

Info :

This guy is large. Finished size: he\'s about 26 inches tall, 18.5 inches from feet to back & 28 inches wide (from arm to arm). Like all amigurumi, gauge doesn\'t matter. Just make sure your stitches are tight/consistent.

— Head :

Info :

Worked in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join rounds. Made in 'Lagoon' or 'Lapis'.

Round 1 :

Make 6 sc in a magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

Increase in each stitch (12)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 5, sc (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 5, 2 sc (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x 5, 3 sc (48)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10 :

sc in each stitch (54)

Round 11 :

4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) x 5, 4 sc (60)

Round 12 :

sc in each stitch (60)

Round 13 :

(14 sc, inc) x 4 (64)

Rounds 14-18 :

sc in each stitch (64)

Round 19 :

(14 sc, dec) x 4 (60)

Round 20 :

sc in each stitch (60)

Round 21 :

4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) x 5, 4 sc (54)

Round 22 :

sc in each stitch (54)

Round 23 :

(7 sc, dec) x 6 (54)

Info :

Fasten off. Add stuffing to the head. The increases from round 13 should make the head slightly oval-shaped.

— Body :

Info :

Worked in an oval shape. Worked in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join. Made in 'Lagoon' or 'Lapis'.

Round 1 :

Chain 18. Starting in the second chain from the hook: inc, 15 sc, make 3 sc in the last chain. Turn so you are working on the opposite side of the foundation chain. 16 sc. (36)

Round 2 :

inc, inc, 15 sc, inc, inc, inc, 15 sc, inc (42)

Round 3 :

sc, inc, sc, inc, 16 sc, inc, sc, inc, sc, inc, 16 sc, inc (48)

Round 4 :

2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 17 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 17 sc, inc (54)

Round 5 :

3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 18 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 18 sc, inc (60)

Round 6 :

4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 19 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 19 sc, inc (66)

Round 7 :

5 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 20 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 20 sc, inc (72)

Round 8 :

4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) x 7, 4 sc (80)

Round 9 :

(9 sc, inc) x 8 (88)

Round 10 :

5 sc, inc, (10 sc, inc) x 7, 5 sc (96)

Round 11 :

sc in each stitch (96)

Round 12 :

(11 sc, inc) x 8 (104)

Round 13 :

sc in each stitch (104)

Round 14 :

6 sc, inc, (12 sc, inc) x 7, 6 sc (112)

Rounds 15-24 :

sc in each stitch (112)

Round 25 :

6 sc, dec, (12 sc, dec) x 7, 6 sc (104)

Rounds 26-29 :

sc in each stitch (104)

Round 30 :

(11 sc, dec) x 8 (96)

Round 31 :

sc in each stitch (96)

Round 32 :

5 sc, dec, (10 sc, dec) x 7, 5 sc (88)

Round 33 :

sc in each stitch (88)

Round 34 :

(9 sc, dec) x 8 (80)

Round 35 :

4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) x 7, 4 sc (72)

Round 36 :

sc in each stitch (72)

Round 37 :

(7 sc, dec) x 8 (64)

Round 38 :

sc in each stitch (64)

Round 39 :

3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) x 7, 3 sc (56)

Round 40 :

sc in each stitch (56)

Round 41 :

(5 sc, dec) x 8 (48)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a very long tail to sew the body to the head. Add a LOT of stuffing to the body.

— Ears :

Info :

Make two ears. Made in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join. Made in 'Lagoon' or 'Lapis'.

Round 1 :

Make 6 sc in a magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

(sc, inc) x 3 (9)

Round 3 :

sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, sc (12)

Round 4 :

sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, sc (16)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 4 (20)

Round 6 :

2 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 2 sc (24)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew to the head.

— Arms :

Info :

Make two arms. Made in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join. Made in 'Lagoon' or 'Lapis'.

Round 1 :

Make 6 sc in a magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

increase in each stitch (12)

Round 3 :

inc, inc, 3 sc, inc, inc, inc, 3 sc, inc (18)

Round 4 :

sc in each stitch (18)

Round 5 :

4 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 4 sc (20)

Round 6 :

9 sc, inc, 9 sc, inc (22)

Rounds 7-11 :

sc in each stitch (22)

Round 12 :

sc in each stitch, then chain one & turn to start working in rows (22)

Info :

Working in rows instead of rounds. Make sure you have already chained & turned!

Round 13 :

16 sc, chain one & turn (16)

Round 14 :

dec, 12 sc, dec, chain one & turn (14)

Round 15 :

14 sc, chain one & turn (14)

Round 16 :

dec, 10 sc, dec, chain one & turn (12)

Round 17 :

12 sc, chain one & turn (12)

Round 18 :

dec, 8 sc, dec, chain one & turn (10)

Round 19 :

10 sc, chain one & turn (10)

Round 20 :

dec, 6 sc, dec, chain one & turn (8)

Round 21 :

8 sc, chain one & turn (8)

Round 22 :

dec, 4 sc, dec, chain one & turn (6)

Round 23 :

6 sc (6)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew to the sides of the body. Add stuffing to the bottom of the arm (the part that\'s in rows will be stuffed when the arm is sewed to the body).

— Feet :

Info :

Make two feet. Worked in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join. Made in 'Birch'.

Round 1 :

Chain 6. Starting in the second chain from the hook: inc, 3 sc, make 3 sc in the last chain. Turn so you are working on the opposite side of the foundation chain. 4 sc. (12)

Round 2 :

inc, inc, 3 sc, inc, inc, inc, 3 sc, inc (18)

Round 3 :

sc, inc, sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, sc, inc, sc, inc, 4 sc, inc (24)

Round 4 :

2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc (30)

Round 5 :

3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc (36)

Round 6 :

3 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, sc (42) - please note the beginning of this round does NOT have an error in it. My rounds shifted a bit (the first increase wasn\'t centered with the chain) - it should be '4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc' BUT instead, one of the first four single crochet stitches is at the end of the round. Ezpz.

Rounds 7-8 :

sc in each stitch (42)

Round 9 :

4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec (36) - again, rounds shifted a bit, so instead of doing the 3 sc and then having the fourth sc at the END of the round, just do 4 sc at the beginning.

Round 10 :

3 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec (30)

Round 11 :

2 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec (24)

Round 12 :

2 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc (20)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew each of the feet to the body. Add stuffing to the feet.

— Foot pads :

Info :

Make two foot pads. Worked in joined rounds - slip stitch & chain one at the end of each round. Made in 'Taupe'.

Round 1 :

Make 8 hdc in a magic ring, slip stitch to the first stitch & chain one (8)

Round 2 :

Make a half double crochet increase in the same stitch as the slip stitch. Half double crochet increase in each of the next 7 stitches. Slip stitch to the first stitch (16)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew to the foot.

— Belly Patch :

Info :

Worked in rows. Made in 'Birch'.

Row 1 :

Chain 13. Starting in the second chain from the hook: inc, 10 sc, inc, chain one & turn (14)

Row 2 :

inc, 12 sc, inc, chain one & turn (16)

Row 3 :

inc, 14 sc, inc, chain one & turn (18)

Row 4 :

inc, 16 sc, inc, chain one & turn (20)

Row 5 :

inc, 18 sc, inc, chain one & turn (22)

Row 6 :

inc, 20 sc, inc, chain one & turn (24)

Rows 7-18 :

24 sc, chain one & turn (24)

Row 19 :

dec, 20 sc, dec, chain one & turn (22)

Row 20 :

22 sc, chain one & turn (22)

Row 21 :

dec, 18 sc, dec, chain one & turn (20)

Row 22 :

20 sc, chain one & turn (20)

Row 23 :

dec, 16 sc, dec, chain one & turn (18)

Row 24 :

dec, 14 sc, dec, chain one & turn (16)

Row 25 :

16 sc, chain one & turn (16)

Row 26 :

dec, 12 sc, dec, chain one & turn (14)

Row 27 :

dec, 10 sc, dec, chain one & turn (12)

Row 28 :

12 sc, chain one & turn (12)

Row 29 :

inc, 10 sc, inc, chain one & turn (14)

Row 30 :

inc, 12 sc, inc, chain one & turn (16)

Rows 31-37 :

16 sc, chain one & turn (16)

Row 38 :

dec, 4 sc, dec. Place marker in the next stitch (the ninth stitch from row 37). Chain one & turn (6)

Row 39 :

6 sc, chain one & turn (6)

Row 40 :

dec, 2 sc, dec, chain one & turn (4)

Row 41 :

dec, dec, chain one & turn (2)

Row 42 :

dec (1)

Info :

Fasten off. Attach yarn in the stitch that was marked in row 37, when making row 38 & continue:

Row 43 :

dec, 4 sc, dec, chain one & turn 6 (6)

Row 44 :

6 sc, chain one & turn (6)

Row 45 :

dec, 2 sc, dec, chain one & turn (4)

Row 46 :

dec, dec, chain one & turn (2)

Row 47 :

dec (1)

Info :

Fasten off. Flip the belly patch over so that the right side of the piece is facing. Attach a new piece of yarn to the bottom left corner & sc a border around. Make 3 sc in row 42. Make 4 sc down the sides of the rows of the top piece. Dec over the next two stitches. Make 4 sc up the other side of the rows (on the second top piece) & make 3 sc in row 47. Then continue on down the other side of the piece. Make sure that you have an even number of stitches on both of the long sides of the piece. When finished crocheting the border, fasten off & leave a very long tail to sew the belly patch to the body.

— Claws (hands) :

Info :

Make 10 claws (yeah, it\'s a pain). Made in 'White'.

Round 1 :

Make a magic ring with 3 sc. Slip stitch to the first stitch (3)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew to the hands. IF you are finding it difficult to make a magic ring with 3 sc:

Alt :

Chain 2. Make 3 sc in the second chain from the hook. Slip stitch to the first stitch (3). Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew to the hands.

— Claws (feet) :

Info :

Make 6 claws. Worked in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join. Made in 'White'. You can start the claws the alternative way that the hand claws are made.

Round 1 :

Make a magic ring with 3 sc (3)

Round 2 :

inc, inc, inc (6)

Round 3 :

sc in each stitch (6)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew the claws to the feet.

— Assembly :

Info :

Stuff the body & head firmly. It\'ll take a LOT of stuffing, but that\'s okay. He\'ll be nice & cuddly.

Info :

Using the tail left over on the body, sew the body to the head. Sew through the tops of the stitches on the body and around the POSTS of the stitches from the last round of the head. The head should be slightly oval shaped (the increases from round 13 of the head should be on the sides) & the body is definitely oval shaped - so be mindful of that when sewing the two pieces together.

Info :

Next is the absolute worst part of this: pin the belly patch to the body. The bottom of the patch should sit between rounds 15&16 of the body. The top of the belly patch should sit between rounds 8&9 of the head. I had to use T-pins to pin mine (because the regular pins were way too small). I just stretched the piece out a bit, lined up the bottom & pinned it in place. Then I counted 5-6 stitches up each of the sides, lined it up with the body & placed T-pins. Some of them ended up falling out when I sewed it.

Info :

Rows 27 & 28 of the belly patch are the neck, the rows after that are all sewed to the head. Work around the posts of the stitches on the border when sewing - it will give you a waaay neater look than whip stitching it on. Take your time.

Info :

Pin the ears to the head. They should sit between rounds 5&6, to between rounds 11&12 of the head. Before the ears are fully sewed on, add stuffing to them.

Info :

Pin the arms to the sides of the body. You\'ll notice on the arms that there are 6 stitches at the top of the arms (where they\'ve been fasted off) AND 6 stitches at the bottoms of the arms (left over from when the arm switched from working in rounds to working in rows). These two sets of 6 stitches need to be lined up - so the top six stitches will be pinned to the last round of the body (near the head), & the bottom six stitches will be pinned between rounds 28&29 of the body.

Info :

Start sewing the arms on - the sides of the rows on the arms should be sewed kind of in a straight line down the side of the body. When you\'re close to finished sewing each of the arms on, add stuffing so that the row part of the arm isn\'t flat. It should kind of blend in with the bottom part of the arm/hand.

Info :

Pin 5 claws to each of the hands & sew them to the hands. They don\'t need stuffing - they\'re way too small for it. They should end up fairly close to one another.

Info :

Sew a foot pad to each of the feet. They should sit between rounds 3&4 of the feet. Again, sewing around the posts of the stitches on the foot pad gives a neater look.

Info :

Sew the feet to the body - they should be angled kind of outwards. The bottoms of the feet should sit between rounds 12&13 of the body. The tops of the feet should sit between rounds 19&20 of the body.

Info :

Next up, sew 3 of each of the foot claws to the feet. You can add a little bit of stuffing to them if you want, it\'s really up to you. They should sit between rounds 7&8 to between rounds 8&9 of the feet.

Info :

Using a piece of black yarn, embroider the eyes & mouth on the head part of the belly patch. You can VERY carefully use a tiny bit of fabric glue to make the eyes a bit rounder. Cut two little triangles out of white felt for the teeth. Glue the teeth near the mouth. The top parts of the little triangles should point upwards.

Info :

If you made it this far - congratulations, you\'re finished! Weave in all ends and enjoy your giant Snorlax.

Assembly Instructions

  • Stuff the body and head very firmly and use the long tail left on the body to sew the body to the head through the tops of the stitches and around the posts of the head stitches for a neat join.
  • Pin the belly patch with the bottom of the patch between rounds 15&16 of the body and the top between rounds 8&9 of the head; sew around the posts of the border for a tidy edge.
  • Pin each ear between rounds 5&6 and 11&12 of the head; add stuffing before fully sewing the ears down and secure tightly.
  • Line up the 6 top stitches of each arm with the last round (near the head) and the 6 bottom stitches between rounds 28&29 of the body, then sew arms on and stuff the row portion as you finish sewing.
  • Sew foot pads to each foot between rounds 3&4; attach the feet angled outwards to the body with bottoms sitting between rounds 12&13 and tops between rounds 19&20.
  • Pin and sew claws: attach 5 claws to each hand and 3 claws to each foot in the positions described, and embroider the eyes and mouth on the belly patch with black yarn, gluing felt teeth near the mouth.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of the beginning of rounds, especially when working continuous rounds and when rounds shift between sides.
  • 💡Stuff firmly but not overstuffed into small areas; add stuffing gradually and shape as you go to maintain the oval body shape.
  • 💡Pin all parts (belly patch, ears, arms, feet) in place and count stitches before sewing to ensure correct alignment and symmetry.
  • 💡Sew around the posts of the stitches rather than whipstitching the surface for a cleaner, more professional finish.
  • 💡Leave long tails when fastening off pieces so you have enough yarn to securely sew parts together.

This giant Snorlax is a cuddly, oversized project that brings a big smile and cozy vibes to any room. It\'s made using Bernat Blanket yarn for extra squish and a soft, tactile finish that kids and adults will both love. Take your time with pinning and sewing for the neatest results — the effort is worth the hug. 🧶🧵

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 26 inches tall when made with Bernat Blanket yarn and the recommended 7mm hook.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will affect the final size and the amount of stuffing required; choose an appropriate hook for your yarn and expect a different finished scale.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and assumes you are comfortable with single crochet, increases, decreases, working in continuous rounds, and basic sewing/assembly.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters take between 12-15 hours to complete this large Snorlax, though time will vary based on experience, speed, and how much time you spend on sewing and finishing.

How much stuffing do I need?

This is a large plush and requires a substantial amount of stuffing—plan on several pounds (the pattern author used around 5 lbs) to achieve the recommended squishy shape.