What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 12 1/4" or 31 cm tall when using the recommended Catania sport-weight cotton and hook sizes listed.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but the final size will change; use appropriate hook sizes and remember cotton gives less stretch so garments and wig fit best if you adjust hook sizes carefully.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate; you should be comfortable with basic stitches, working in rounds, invisible decrease, and reading stitch counts and short pattern repeats.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 12+ hours spread across multiple sessions, depending on experience level and how many clothing pieces you make.

DOLL ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern

Make Doll Zoey, a charming boho-style amigurumi with layered dresses, a cosy coat and tiny shoes. This intermediate pattern guides you through each piece — head, body, limbs, wig, shoes and coat — with clear rounds and helpful construction notes. Youll love creating her detailed clothing and adorable personality, perfect for gifting or display.

Intermediate 12+ Hours

Materials Needed for DOLL ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

01
Catania - Schachenmayr 100% Cotton (sport weight - 5 ply), 1.78 ounces = 137 yards/50 g (125 meters)
02
105 natur - Color B - 2 balls - needed for body and dress
03
110 black - Color F - ~7 yds / 6 m - needed for shoe details
04
172 silver - Color E - < 1 ball - sole of shoe
05
157 marone - Color N - 1 ball - wig
06
263 soft apricot - Color A - < 1 ball - head, arms, feet, neck
07
164 jeans - Color C - < 1 ball - leggings
08
247 sky - Color D - ~2 yds / 2 m - leggings
09
397 turquoise - Color K - < 1 ball - coat, beanie, flower
10
226 lavender - Color L - < 1 ball - coat, beanie, shoelace
11
251 magenta - Color G - < 1 ball - coat, beanie, shoe
12
252 dark coral - Color M - 1 ball - coat, beanie
13
192 claret - Color H - < 1 ball - coat, beanie

— Tools Required

01
Crochet hook US 1½ (2.5 mm)
02
Crochet hook US 2½ (3.0 mm)
03
Crochet hook US 4 (3.5 mm)
04
Tapestry needles (usual and extra long)
05
Sewing needle
06
Sewing thread
07
Stitch marker
08
Scissors
09
Pins
10
Polyester stuffing (fiberfill)
11
Cardboard or plastic for the shoe soles
12
2 black safety eyes Ø 6 mm
13
3 tiny buttons for the coat and flower (optional)
14
Strong thread (dental floss) for jointing
15
Optional: wooden spoon/chopstick and clamping scissor to simplify filling

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Rd 1 (RS) :

Magic ring: 1 ch (does not count as st), 6 sc in magic ring (6 sts)

Rd 2 :

6 inc (12 sts)

Rd 3 :

*1 sc, 1 inc* crochet 6 times (18 sts)

Rd 4 :

*1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc* crochet 6 times (24 sts)

Rd 5 :

*3 sc, 1 inc* crochet 6 times (30 sts)

Rd 6 :

*2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc* crochet 6 times (36 sts)

Rd 7 :

*1 inc, 5 sc* crochet 6 times (42 sts)

Rd 8 :

*5 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc* crochet 6 times (48 sts)

Rd 9 :

*5 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc* crochet 6 times (48 sts)

Rd 9 (alt) :

*3 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc* crochet 6 times (54 sts)

Rd 10 - 19 :

54 sc (10 rds) (54 sts)

Rd 20 :

*3 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 4 sc* crochet 6 times (48 sts)

Rd 21 :

*5 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc* crochet 6 times (42 sts)

Rd 22 :

*1 inv-sc2tog, 5 sc* crochet 6 times (36 sts)

Rd 23 :

*2 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 2 sc* crochet 6 times (30 sts)

Rd 24 :

*3 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 6 times (24 sts)

Info :

Set the eyes in place first. Make sure the working yarn of the head is at the back. Put the eyes between round 12 and 13, 8 stitches apart. Poke the eye shafts through to the inside of the head and fasten with the washers that came with them.

Info :

Stuff the head.

Rd 25 :

*1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc* crochet 6 times (18 sts)

Rd 26 :

*7 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet twice (16 sts)

Info :

1 slst in next st, fasten off, leaving a 20"/50 cm tail, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st. Stuff the remaining head with fiberfill. Do not weave in end, use it later to sew the head onto the body.

— Body :

Rd 1 (RS) :

Magic ring: 1 ch (does not count as st), 8 sc in magic ring (8 sts)

Rd 2 :

8 inc (16 sts)

Rd 3 - 10 :

16 sc (8 rds) (16 sts)

Info :

1 slst in next st, FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st. The slst marks the center back of the body. Switch to yarn color B and work an uncounted rd of slst as follows: Insert hook in the NJ, yo, pull through lp. 1 slst in next st and all remaining sts. Work the last slst in the same st where the yarn was attached.

Rd 11 :

(Work in the sts of rd 10), (see photo 9) *3 sc, 1 inc* crochet 4 times (20 sts) - mark the beginning of the rd with a stitch marker

Rd 12 :

20 sc (20 sts)

Rd 13 :

1 sc, 1 inc, *4 sc, 1 inc* crochet 3 times, 3 sc (24 sts)

Rd 14 :

24 sc (24 sts)

Rd 15 :

*3 sc, 1 inc* crochet 6 times (30 sts)

Rd 16 :

30 sc (30 sts)

Rd 17 :

1 sc, 1 inc, *4 sc, 1 inc* crochet 5 times, 3 sc (36 sts)

Rd 18 :

36 sc (36 sts)

Rd 19 :

*1 inc, 5 sc* crochet 6 times (42 sts)

Rd 20 :

42 sc (42 sts)

Rd 21 :

5 sc, *1 inc, 6 sc* crochet 5 times, 1 inc, 1 sc (48 sts)

Rd 22 - 23 :

48 sc (2 rds) (48 sts)

Rd 24 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 23) 1 s-sc, 47 sc (48 sts)

Rd 25 - 26 :

48 sc (2 rds) (48 sts)

Info :

Now work the second layer of the dress. Continue working in spiral rounds.

Layer II, Rd 1 :

(work all sts FLO) *2 sc, 1 inc* crochet 16 times (64 sts)

Layer II, Rd 2 - 3 :

64 sc (64 sts)

Layer II, Rd 4 :

*3 sc, 1 inc* crochet 16 times (80 sts)

Layer II, Rd 5 - 10 :

80 sc (80 sts)

Layer II, Rd 11 :

(work all sts FLO) 80 slst (80 sts)

Layer II, Rd 12 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 10) *4 slst, 3 ch* crochet 20 times, FO, 1 NJ in 1st slst (80 sts)

Info :

Continue working on the body. Fasten on the same yarn in any st at the back of the body. Working in spiral rounds.

Rd 27 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 26) 1 s-sc, 47 sc (48 sts)

Rd 28 - 29 :

48 sc (2 rds) (48 sts)

Info :

Now work the third layer of the dress. Working in joined rounds. The beginning '1 sc-1 ch' and the ending slst of each rd count together as a double crochet stitch. See also crochet chart 2 on page 36.

Layer III, Rd 1 :

(work all sts FLO) 1 sc, 1 ch, 4 dc, [2 dc], *5 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 1 slst in 1st dc (56 sts)

Layer III, Rd 2 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 2 dc, [2 dc], *6 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 3 dc, 1 slst in 1st dc (64 sts)

Layer III, Rd 3 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 6 dc, [2 dc], *7 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 1 slst in 1st dc (72 sts)

Layer III, Rd 4 :

1 ch (does not count as st), *1 sc, 1 ch, sk 2 sts, [2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc], 1 ch, sk 2 sts* crochet 12 times (96 sts)

Layer III, Rd 5 - 6 :

*1 sc in next sc, 1 ch, [3 dc, 1 ch, 3 dc] in next ch1-sp, 1 ch* crochet 12 times (120 sts)

Layer III, Rd 7 :

*1 sc in next sc, [5 dc, 1 ch, 5 dc] in next ch1-sp* crochet 12 times, FO, 1 NJ in next sc (144 sts)

Info :

Continue working on the body. Fasten on the same yarn in any st at the back of the body. Working in spiral rounds.

Rd 30 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 29) 1 s-sc, 47 sc (48 sts)

Rd 31 - 32 :

48 sc (48 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 1 :

(work all sts FLO) 1 sc, 1 ch, 4 dc, [2 dc], *5 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 1 slst in 1st dc (56 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 2 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 1 dc, [2 dc], *6 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 4 dc, 1 slst in 1st dc (64 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 3 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 6 dc, [2 dc], *7 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 1 slst in 1st dc (72 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 4 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 4 dc, [2 dc], *8 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 3 dc, 1 slst in 1st dc (80 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 5 :

(work all sts FLO) 1 ch (does not count as st), 80 sc (80 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 6 - 13 :

80 sc (8 rds) (80 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 14 :

(work all sts FLO) 80 slst (80 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 15 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 13)*4 slst, 3 ch* crochet 20 times, FO, 1 NJ in 1st slst (80 sts)

Info :

Now work the fifth layer of the dress. Working in joined rounds. The beginning '1 sc-1 ch' and the ending slst of each rd count together as a double crochet stitch. Fasten on the yarn in any st at the back of the body.

Layer V, Rd 1 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 4, layer IV) 1 s-sc, 1 ch, 79 dc, 1 slst in 1st dc (80 sts)

Layer V, Rd 2 - 3 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 79 dc, 1 slst in 1st dc (work as written) (80 sts)

Layer V, Rd 4 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 80 sc (80 sts)

Layer V, Rd 5 - 6 :

80 sc (2 rds) (80 sts)

Layer V, Rd 7 :

*9 sc, 1 inc* crochet 8 times (88 sts)

Layer V, Rd 8 - 9 :

88 sc (2 rds) (88 sts)

Layer V, Rd 10 :

(work all sts FLO) 88 slst (88 sts)

Layer V, Rd 11 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 9)*4 slst, 3 ch* crochet 22 times, FO, 1 NJ in 1st slst (88 sts)

Info :

Photo 10 shows the finished dress. Next crochet the collar (see photo 11). Make sure the neck of the body is pointing towards you. Work in the slip stitches BLO of the uncounted rd you worked after finishing rd 10 of the body. Mark a st at the front of the body, lining up with the lace. Attach the yarn color B in the st (BLO) to the left of the marked st. Work in rows. The turning chain does not count as st.

Collar, Rd 1 (RS) :

1 ch (does not count as st), *1 sc, 1 inc* crochet 7 times, 1 sc, 1 ch, turn work (22 sts)

Collar, Rd 2 :

sk 1 st, 2 sc, *1 inc, 2 sc* crochet 5 times, 1 inc, 1 sc, sk 1 st, 1 sc, ch, turn work (26 sts)

Collar, Rd 3 :

sk 1 st, 23 sc, sk 1 st, [3 sc], (work sidewise in the edge sts of rd 1) 1 sc, 1 slst in same st where last st of rd 1 was made, 1 slst in next 'free' slst of the uncounted rd of the body, 1 slst in same st where first st of rd 1 was made, (work sidewise in the edge sts of rd 1-2) 2 sc, [1 sc, 1 slst] in next st, FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st (34 sts incl. slst)

— Arm / Sleeve (MAKE 2) :

Info :

The arm is worked in spiral rounds. Use the hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm and the yarn colors A and B. Stuff the arm as you go. Start with yarn color A.

Rd 1 (RS) :

Magic ring: 1 ch (does not count as st), 6 sc in magic ring (6 sts)

Rd 2 :

6 inc (12 sts)

Rd 3 :

*1 sc, 1 inc* crochet 6 times (18 sts)

Rd 4 - 6 :

18 sc (3 rds) (18 sts)

Rd 7 :

16 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog (17 sts)

Rd 8 :

7 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 7 sc, 1 CL-6 (16 sts)

Rd 9 :

14 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog (15 sts)

Rd 10 :

1 inv-sc2tog, 13 sc (14 sts)

Rd 11 :

6 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 6 sc (13 sts)

Rd 12 :

11 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog (12 sts)

Rd 13 :

4 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 6 sc (11 sts)

Rd 14 :

9 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog (10 sts)

Rd 15 - 17 :

10 sc (3 rds) (10 sts)

Rd 18 :

10 sc, 1 slst in next st, FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st (10 sts)

Info :

Switch to yarn color B to work the sleeve. Before starting the sleeve cut a length of 10 m (11 yds) of the yarn color B and keep to one side ready to work the cuff of the sleeve (or use the other yarn tail of the ball). Attach the yarn in any st of rd 18 that is at the back of the arm (opposite of the thumb).

Rd 19 :

1 s-sc, 9 sc (10 sts)

Rd 20 :

(work all sts BLO) 10 sc (10 sts)

Rd 21 - 25 :

10 sc (5 rds) (10 sts)

Cuff, Rd 1 :

(work FLO in the sts of rd 19) *1 sc (the 1st sc of the rd will be a s-sc), 1 inc* crochet 5 times (15 sts)

Cuff, Rd 2 - 3 :

15 sc (15 sts)

Cuff, Rd 4 :

*2 sc, 1 inc* crochet 5 times (20 sts)

Cuff, Rd 5 - 6 :

20 sc (20 sts)

Cuff, Rd 7 :

*4 sc, 1 inc* crochet 4 times (24 sts)

Cuff, Rd 8 - 9 :

24 sc (24 sts)

Cuff, Rd 10 :

*5 sc, 1 inc* crochet 4 times (28 sts)

Cuff, Rd 11 :

28 sc (28 sts)

Cuff, Rd 12 :

(work all sts BLO) *4 slst, 3 ch* crochet 7 times (28 sts)

Cuff, Rd 13 :

(work FLO in the sts of rd 11) 28 slst (28 sts)

Info :

FO, 1 NJ in next st. Replace loop of yarn color B on the hook and finish the arm/sleeve.

Rd 26 - 34 :

10 sc (9 rds) (10 sts)

Rd 35 :

*3 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet twice (8 sts)

Rd 36 :

*1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc* crochet twice (6 sts)

Info :

Stuff the remaining sleeve with fiberfill. Cut yarn, leaving a 12"/30 cm tail. Close the hole as described on page 6 (needle join closing). See also photo 32.

— Leg (MAKE 2) :

Info :

Work the leg in spiral rounds. Starting at sole, with hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm and yarn color A.

Rd 1 (RS) :

(work all sc in BB of the chains) 6 ch, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 3 sc, [3 sc], bottom side of chain: 3 sc, 1 inc (12 sts)

Rd 2 :

1 inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (18 sts)

Rd 3 :

1 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, *1 inc, 1 sc* crochet 3 times, 3 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc (24 sts)

Rd 4 :

1 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 2 inc (32 sts)

Rd 5 :

1 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, *1 inc, 1 sc* crochet twice, *1 sc, 1 inc* crochet twice, 4 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc (42 sts) (pattern as printed)

Rd 6 - 10 :

42 sc (5 rds) (42 sts)

Rd 11 :

12 sc, *1 inv-sc2tog, 2 sc* crochet 3 times, 1 inv-sc2tog, 16 sc (38 sts)

Rd 12 :

8 sc, *1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc* crochet 3 times, *1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 3 times, 12 sc (32 sts)

Info :

Put the cardboard or plastic inside the foot (sole). Stuff the leg as you go.

Rd 13 :

7 sc, 7 inv-sc2tog, 11 sc (25 sts)

Rd 14 :

8 sc, 2 hdc, 1 hdc2tog, 1 hdc, 12 sc (24 sts)

Rd 15 :

*4 sc, 1 sc2tog* crochet 4 times (20 sts)

Rd 16 - 17 :

20 sc (2 rds) (20 sts)

Rd 18 :

*3 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 4 times (16 sts)

Rd 19 - 21 :

16 sc (3 rds) (16 sts)

Rd 22 :

16 sc, 1 slst in next st, FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st (16 sts)

Info :

Now work the leggings. Switch to yarn color C. Before starting the leggings cut a length of 3 m (just over 3 yds) of yarn color C and keep to one side ready for the turn-up.

Rd 23 :

(work all sts BLO) 16 sc (16 sts)

Rd 24 - 30 :

16 sc (7 rds) (16 sts)

Turn-up, Rd 1 :

(work in the sts of rd 22 FLO) 1 s-sc, 15 sc (16 sts)

Turn-up, Rd 2 :

16 sc (16 sts)

Turn-up, Rd 3 :

16 sc, 1 slst, FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st (16 sts)

Turn-up, Rd 4 :

Switch to yarn color D. Attach the new yarn in any st at the back of the leg. 1 ch (count as 1st st), 15 sc, FO, 1 NJ in next st (16 sts)

Info :

Replace loop of yarn color C on the hook and finish the leggings. Now work in spiral rounds.

Rd 31 - 43 :

16 sc (13 rds) (16 sts)

Rd 44 :

*2 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 4 times (12 sts)

Rd 45 :

*1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 4 times (8 sts)

Info :

Cut yarn, leaving a 12"/30 cm tail. Stuff the remaining leg with fiberfill. Close the hole as described on page 6 (needle join closing). Photo 19 shows the finished leg.

— Shoes (MAKE 2) :

Info :

Work the shoe in spiral rounds, in turned (joined) rounds and in rows. Starting at sole, with hook US 4 (3.5 mm) and the yarn color E. Start working in spiral rounds.

Rd 1 - 5 :

repeat rd 1-5 of the leg (see page 16) (42 sts)

Rd 6 :

42 sc, 1 slst in next st (42 sts)

Rd 7 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 42 bpsc (for the 1st bpsc insert hook from back to front in same st where slst of previous rd was made), FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st (42 sts)

Info :

Based on the NJ of rd 7 count 9 sts to the right and place a marker in this 9th st. Switch to yarn color F. Working a joined round. Attach yarn in any st at the back of the heel. When you reach the marker place it 1 rd higher in same st.

Rd 8 :

1 ch (count as st), 41 sc, FO, 1 NJ in 1st sc (the NJ and the underlying ch count together as a sc) (42 sts)

Info :

Switch to yarn color G and hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm. Attach yarn in marked st. Working in turned (joined) rounds. The turning ch does not count as st.

Rd 9 (RS) :

1 ch (count as st), 41 sc, 1 slst in 1st sc (the slst and the underlying ch count together as a sc), 1 ch, turn work (42 sts)

Rd 10 - 12 :

42 sc, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work (42 sts)

Row 1 (RS) :

13 sc, 1 ch, turn work (13 sts)

Row 2 :

6 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 5 sc, 1 ch, turn work (12 sts)

Row 3 - 4 :

12 sc, 1 ch, turn work (12 sts)

Row 5 :

1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 4 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc, 1 inc, 1 ch, turn work (12 sts)

Row 6 :

12 sc, 1 ch, turn work (12 sts)

Info :

Now work 2 rounds around the whole shoe. Work in spiral rounds. Final shaping rounds as printed make the final stitches count 47 then 49 sts in final rd. Final Rd 1 and Final Rd 2 produce 47 and 49 sts as printed. Weave in all loose ends. Use hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm and yarn color L. Work approx. 75 chains and thread the shoelace. Tie the ends and make a loop. Photo 20 shows the finished shoes.

— Coat (MAKE 1) :

Info :

The coat consists of the body part and the two sleeves. For the coat you have to work 20 granny squares - three for each sleeve and 14 for the body part. You need also 6 triangles for the body part of the coat. After finishing the granny squares and the triangles you have to join them and work additional rows to complete the coat. For all parts of the coat use the hook US 1½ (2.5 mm).

Granny Square (make 20) :

Start with 1st yarn color of your choice. Magic ring: 1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc, 1 ch (sc and ch count together as 1st dc), 11 dc in magic ring, FO, 1 NJ in 1st dc. Switch to 2nd yarn color of your choice. Fasten on between any 2 dc. Work as indicated on crochet chart 3 (see page 37) and pattern instructions.

Assembly Instructions

Set safety eyes into the head between rounds 12 and 13, 8 stitches apart, push shafts through the inside and secure with washers before stuffing the head.
Sew the head onto the body using the long tail left from finishing the head; position the head centrally on the neck opening and sew with a whipstitch or ladder stitch to secure.
Attach arms to the sides of the body around the marked arm positions (use photo references), sewing firmly through the top rounds and reinforcing with extra thread where needed.
Position legs at the bottom of the body and sew securely; insert cardboard/plastic into shoe soles before final assembly to help the doll stand, then attach shoes over the feet and sew in place.
Join granny squares and triangles to form the coat body and sleeves, block and press seams flat, then sew buttons to the coat front and attach any decorative flower or beanie pieces.

Important Notes

💡When making the doll use cotton yarn for the body parts to ensure a stiff, stable fabric that holds stuffing and shape well.
💡Work with consistent tension and use stitch markers to mark the beginning of rounds and important placement points for eyes and limbs.
💡Stuff gradually and firmly in small amounts, using a stuffing tool or chopstick to fill corners and narrow openings for a smooth shape.
💡Use different hook sizes for clothing versus body: smaller hooks for body pieces, slightly larger hooks for garments that layer over each other.

This Doll Zoey pattern brings boho charm and playfulness into a gorgeous crochet project that youll treasure. Create the layered dress, detailed coat and tiny shoes that give Zoey her personality. Add colors and textures to make a truly unique gift or keepsake. 🧶🧵

DOLL ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern

Intermediate Level

Multi-Day Project

Cute Companion

About This DOLL ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern

Why You'll Love This DOLL ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern

Switch Things Up

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them