🧶 Beautiful ✨ Detailed 💝 Adorable

Doll Eliza Amigurumi Pattern

Doll Eliza Amigurumi Pattern
4.4★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
2.5K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Doll Eliza Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern teaches you how to crochet a full Doll Eliza amigurumi with clothes and accessories. You will work legs, shoes, body, head, arms, wig and decorative flowers with clear rounds and photos. The finished doll stands about 32 cm tall and uses sport weight cotton yarn.

Doll Eliza Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Step-by-step rounds and helpful notes make assembly easier and more accurate. Suitable for crocheters comfortable with increases, decreases and sewing parts together.

Why You'll Love This Doll Eliza Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it guides you through creating a full character with personality and charm. I enjoy the way the curly wig and tiny shoes bring the doll to life and add delightful finishing touches. The construction is thoughtful, letting you stuff and shape gradually so the proportions come out just right. Sharing handmade dolls like this always brings joy, and this pattern makes the process rewarding and fun.

Doll Eliza Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Doll Eliza Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Doll Eliza Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Doll Eliza Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this pattern to create different characters—swap the hair color, change the dress shades, or make tiny accessories to match your style.

If you want a smaller doll, use lighter weight yarn and a smaller hook; for a larger, cuddlier version choose thicker yarn and increase your hook size.

I often change the wig style: try braids, buns or loose curls by altering the length and placement of the curls or by using different curling techniques.

For safety-friendly toys, skip any wire and use extra stuffing to give structure; alternatively add posable wire wrapped and taped inside the limbs for display dolls.

Try embroidering different facial expressions by adjusting eye placement and mouth shape—small changes can make completely new personalities.

I like adding felt or crocheted props like a little bag, hat or tiny stuffed pet to make each doll unique and gift-ready.

Want a themed doll? Use color palettes and small embroidered details to match holidays, hobbies, or favorite characters while keeping the overall construction the same.

To make clothes interchangeable, crochet the dress as a separate piece with a small closure in the back so it can be removed and a wardrobe created.

I sometimes replace safety eyes with embroidered eyes for dolls meant for very young children—this keeps everything securely stitched and soft.

Play with textures by combining different yarn blends; a slightly fuzzy yarn for the hair gives a different look than smooth cotton, and it’s fun to experiment.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers during rounds causes you to lose track of the beginning of the round; place a marker at the first stitch of every round and move it as you go. ✗ Not counting stitches after increases and decreases results in uneven shaping; count your stitches at the end of each round and correct mistakes immediately. ✗ Overstuffing or stuffing too late will distort shape and create lumps; stuff gradually while crocheting the piece to achieve smooth shaping. ✗ Pulling your tension too tight on small parts like shoes and wig makes assembly difficult; keep a consistent, slightly firm tension for best fit and sewing. ✗ Forgetting to secure color changes and tails can cause unraveling later; weave in and fix yarn ends as instructed and leave long tails for sewing where required.

Doll Eliza Amigurumi Pattern

Create a charming handmade Doll Eliza with this detailed amigurumi pattern. You will crochet shoes, legs, body, head, arms, and a curly wig with step-by-step instructions and photos. The pattern uses sport-weight cotton yarn and includes tips for assembly and finishing. Perfect for making a gift or a treasured keepsake.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Doll Eliza Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Alize Cotton Gold - cotton (55%), acrylic (45%), 330 m -100 g, sport weight yarn - 5 ply.
  • 02
    Color (62) white - used for socks and dress - approx quantities as needed.
  • 03
    Color (458) skin - used for head, legs and arms - approx quantities as needed.
  • 04
    Color (393) light pink - used for the body - approx quantities as needed.
  • 05
    Color (02) mustard - used for hair/wig - approx quantities as needed.
  • 06
    Color (56) red - used for the flower - small amount.
  • 07
    Color (485) green - used for the flower leaves - small amount.
  • 08
    YarnArt Jeans - cotton (55%), acrylic (45%), 160m - 50g, sport weight yarn - 5 ply.
  • 09
    Color (87) beige - used for shoes - small amount.
  • 10
    Color (16) blue - used for shoes and dress details - small amount.
  • 11
    Color (88) yellow - used for shoe edging - small amount.
  • 12
    Color (26) coral - used for the dress - small amount.
  • 13
    Color (15) light blue - used for the dress - small amount.
  • 14
    Color (69) green - used for flower - small amount. (note: some colors repeat between yarn lines)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2.0 mm (recommended for legs, body, head, arms)
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 2.5 mm (recommended for dress, wig and details)
  • 03
    Crochet hook size 2 mm (for fine details and shoes)
  • 04
    Fiberfill polyester stuffing
  • 05
    2 black safety eyes Ø 7 mm
  • 06
    Two small beads for flower centers
  • 07
    Cardboard or plastic for the soles
  • 08
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 09
    Stitch markers
  • 10
    Scissors
  • 11
    Wooden chopstick for stuffing narrow parts
  • 12
    Optional: thin wire for posable limbs (wrap ends with tape for safety)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— ARMS (2) :

Info :

Use your 2.0 mm crochet hook and skin yarn.

R 1 :

6 sc in the magic ring (6)

R 2 :

6 inc (12)

R 3 :

1 sc in each st around (12)

R 4 :

(3 sc, inc)*3 times (15)

R 5 :

1 sc in each st around (15)

R 6 :

2 inc, 13 sc (17)

R 7 :

1 sc in each st around (17)

R 8 :

2 dec, 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 3 sc (13)

R 9 :

dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc (11)

R 10 :

6 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc (12)

Info :

Stuff the ready part of the arm tightly.

R 11-32 :

12 sc (22 rnd) (12)

Left arm (R 33) :

5 sc, slst. Cut off and fix the yarn.

Right arm (R 33) :

1 sc, slst. Cut off and fix the yarn.

— SHOES :

Info :

Starting at sole, with hook 2.0 mm. Work the sole in spiral rounds. Make 2 soles for each shoe in beige colored yarn (87) color.

Ch :

Ch 8 and work starting from the 2 nd ch from the hook.

R 1 :

1 inc , 5 sc, 3 sc in one st, 6 sc (16)

R 2 :

2 inc, 5 sc, 3 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc (22)

R 3 :

2 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc , 5 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc (30)

R 4 :

1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc , 1 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc (38)

R 5 :

38 sc (38)

Info :

Now move the beginning of the row to the middle of the sole, crochet 3 sc to do it. Try using cardboard or plastic in the bottom of the sole, so that the doll will stand upright more easily. Cut two pieces of cardboard or plastic in size of the sole (rd 1-5). Put aside for later.

Info :

Fasten off in the invisible way. To do so pull the yarn end through the last stitch, thread the yarn end into the needle, skip one stitch and guide the yarn into the next stitch. Insert the needle back in the same hole where the yarn comes from (foto). Fasten the obtained stitch. Mark this stitch, we will need it later on. Fasten off and weave in the yarn end.

Info :

Put the two soles on top of each other, wrong side against wrong side, so that the heel (where the closing stitches are situated) is facing you.

Info :

Now we need to connect the soles together with a round slst. To do so, take yellow yarn and pull up a loop, insert the hook into the second pair of stitches, yarn over and pull the yarn through this pair of stitches. The first slst is ready. Note: Try to crochet slst loosely, not pulling the stitches too tightly.

Info :

We should get 38 slst in this round in total. Repeat with the second pair of soles.

Info :

Now, we start to crochet the shoes. We are going to be working in joined rounds. Note: slst, ch 1 at the beginning of the row, does not count as a stitch now and throughout. Crochet the first sc of each round into the base of the ch.

Info :

Crochet the first sc of the first round in this stitch. To do so, take blue yarn, pull up a loop and crochet 1ch. Crochet 1sc into the same stitch in which we inserted the hook. The first sc of the first round is ready.

R 1-4 :

1 ch (not count as st) , 1 sc into the base of the ch, 37 sc, slst to the 1st st of the round to join (38)

R 5 :

1 ch, 1 sc into the base of the ch, 13sc, (sc2tog, 1 sc)*3 times, sc2tog, 13 sc, slst to the 1st st of the round to join (34)

Info :

When you are finished with rnd 5, do not break the blue yarn. To shift blue yarn to front side!

Attach :

Attach the yarn color white. 6 th row is crocheted into the back loop of the stitch.

R 6 :

1 ch, 1 sc into the base of the ch, 8sc, (sc2tog, 1 sc)*5, sc2tog, 8 sc, slst to the 1st st of the round to join (28)

Info :

Then go on crocheting spiralwise.

R 7 :

7 sc, 7 sc2tog, 7 sc (21)

R 8 :

8 sc, 2 hdc, 1dc2tog, 1hdc, 8 sc (20)

R 9 :

(1 dec, 3 sc) * 4 times (16)

R 10 :

7 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc (15)

R 11-12 :

15 sc (15)

R 13 :

inc, 14 sc (16)

R 14 :

1 sc, inc, 14 sc (17)

Info :

When you are finished with rnd 14, do not break the white yarn. To shift white yarn to front side!

Attach :

Attach the yarn color skin. 15 th row is crocheted into the back loop of the stitch.

R 15 :

17 sc (17)

R 16 :

2 sc, inc, 14 sc (18)

R 17 :

18 sc (18)

R 18 :

3 sc, inc, 14 sc (19)

R 19 :

19 sc (19)

R 20 :

4 sc, inc, 14 sc (20)

R 21 :

20 sc (20)

R 22 :

5 sc, inc, 14 sc (21)

R 23 :

21 sc (21)

R 24 :

21 sc (21)

Info :

When you finished the rnd 24, postpone crochet of the leg and pass to crochet of the lace of the sock and of the shoe-laces.

Attach :

Attach the blue yarn to the 5th row in the center of the back of the shoe. Crochet into the front loops of each stitch around.

Right shoe :

8 slst, 25 ch, 26 slst (34). Finish the row with slst, cut and fix the yarn.

Left shoe :

26 slst, 25 ch, 8 slst (34). Finish the row with slst, cut and fix the yarn.

Attach :

Attach the white yarn to the 14th row in the center of the back of the leg. Crochet into the front loops of each stitch around (1 slst, 2 ch). Finish the row with slst, cut and fix the yarn. Continue crocheting the legs of the yarn color skin. Stuff the leg in the process of crocheting.

— LEGS :

R 25 :

1 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 10 sc (19)

R 26 :

3 sc, 2 dec, 5 sc, 5 inc, 2 sc (22)

R 27 :

22 sc (22)

R 28 :

3 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc, 5 dec, 2 sc (19)

R 29 :

19 sc (19)

R 30 :

1 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 8 sc (21)

R 31 :

21 sc (21)

R 32 :

6 sc, inc, 14 sc (22)

R 33 :

22 sc (22)

R 34 :

7 sc, inc, 14 sc (23)

R 35 :

23 sc (23)

R 36 :

8 sc, inc, 14 sc (24)

R 37 :

24 sc (24)

R 38 :

9 sc, inc, 14 sc (25)

R 39 :

25 sc (25)

R 40 :

10 sc (10)

Info :

Put a stitch marker here to mark the new beginning of the round.

Attach :

Attach the light pink yarn. Crochet 1 round 25 slst - this round is not counted in the pattern.

R 41 :

25 sc (insert the hook through the center of slip stitches and into the body color stitches of 39th round (foto) (25)

R 42 :

25 sc (25)

Left leg :

R 43: Crochet 19-20 sc after R 42 (the end of a row has to be in an internal part of the leg), slst and cut off and fix the yarn.

Repeat :

Repeat rows 1-42 for the second (right) leg.

R 43 (note) :

Crochet 32-33 sc (In the present row we add 7-8 sc more or less so that the row is finished in the middle of the inner part of the leg. I made 8 sc. You might need more or fewer sc depending on the thickness of the yarn or tightness of your crocheting). Do not cut off the yarn.

— BODY :

Info :

We join the legs and begin crocheting the body. Turn the legs with the heels facing you. On the right leg make 2 ch and attach it to the left leg.

R 44 :

25 sc on the left leg detail, then 2 sc on chain, 25 sc on the right leg, 1 sc on the other side of the on chain.

Info :

!!! Place the marker. Further on you can stop both controlling the place of the marker and crochet floating stitches.

R 45 :

1 sc on chain, (inc, 2 sc)*4 times, 28 sc, (2 sc, inc)*4 times, 1 sc (62)

R 46 :

62 sc (62)

R 47 :

19 sc, dec, 20 sc, dec, 19 sc (60)

R 48-R 49 :

60 sc (60)

R 50 :

19 sc, dec, 18 sc, dec, 19 sc (58)

R 51 :

58 sc (58)

R 52 :

8 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec)*2 times, 7 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec (52)

R 53 :

52 sc (52)

R 54 :

2 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc (46)

R 55 :

46 sl st into the back loop of the stitch (46)

Info :

Cut off the light pink yarn and attach the skin yarn.

R 56 :

46 sc into the back loop of the stitch (46)

R 57 :

(dec, 7 sc)*5 times, 1 sc (41)

R 58-R 60 :

41 sc (41)

R 61 :

4 sc, (dec, 6 sc)*4 times, dec, 3 sc (36)

R 62 :

36 sc (36)

R 63 :

8 sc, inc, 18 sc, inc, 8 sc (38)

R 64-68 :

38 sc (38)

R 69 :

9 sc, inc, 18 sc, inc, 9 sc (40)

R 70-71 :

40 sc (40)

Info :

In the next round we will add the arms and continue from the body rounds as directed.

— HEAD :

Note :

On while crocheting you should make sure that the marker stays in the center of the back of the head. For that you can crochet an extra sc if needed and move the marker.

R 1 :

6 sc in MR (6)

R 2 :

6 inc (12)

R 3 :

(1 sc, inc)* 6 times (18)

R 4 :

1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5 times, 1 sc (24)

R 5 :

(3 sc, inc)*6 times (30)

R 6 :

2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5 times, 2 sc (36)

R 7 :

(5 sc, inc)* 6 times (42)

R 8 :

3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc)*5 times, 3 sc (48)

R 9 :

(7 sc, inc)*6 times (54)

R 10 :

4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc)*5 times, 4 sc (60)

R 11-R 21 :

(11 rnd) 60 sc (60)

R 22 :

17 sc, (inc, 1 sc)*5 times, 7 sc, (1 sc, inc)*5 times, 16 sc (70)

R 23-R 26 :

(4 rnd) 70 sc (70)

R 27 :

(4 sc, dec)*3 times, 34 sc, (dec, 4 sc)*3 times (64)

R 28 :

64 sc (64)

R 29 :

(2 sc, dec)*16 times (48)

R 30 :

3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec)*5 times, 3 sc (42)

R 31 :

(5 sc, dec)*6 times (36)

R 32 :

2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec)*5 times, 2 sc (30)

R 33 :

(3 sc, dec)*6 times (24)

R 34 :

1 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec)*5 times, 1 sc (18)

R 35 :

(4 sc, dec)*3 times, slst (15) Stuff the ball firmly and shape. Cut off the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.

Info :

You can place the eyes between the 21th and 22th rounds. The distance between the eyes should be 12 stitches. Use safety eyes 7 mm.

Info :

Mark the place for the nose 2 rows down from the eyes. After finishing the nose have the needle exit at the top of the head, fix the thread well and hide its ends inside the head. Put some blusher on the toy’s cheeks.

Info :

Place the head onto the body so that the eyes of the doll look forward. Sew the head to the neck with the end of yarn. You can also add some stuffing material in the neck to strengthen it before you finish sewing.

— WIG :

Info :

Use a 2mm crochet hook and mustard colored yarn. Crochet the wig in spiral rounds.

R 1 :

6 sc in MR (6)

R 2 :

6 inc (12)

R 3 :

(1 sc, inc)*6 times (18)

R 4 :

1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5 times, 1 sc (24)

R 5 :

(3 sc, inc)*6 times (30)

R 6 :

2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5 times, 2 sc (36)

R 7 :

(5 sc, inc)*6 times (42)

R 8 :

3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc)*5 times, 3 sc (48)

R 9 :

(7 sc, inc)*6 times (54)

R 10 :

4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc)*5 times, 4 sc (60)

R 11-12 :

60 sc (60)

R 13 :

(9 sc, inc)*6 times (66)

R 14-16 :

66 sc (66)

R 17 :

16 sc, inc, 32 sc, inc, 16 sc (68)

R 18-R 20 :

68 sc (68)

Info :

Next, we need to crochet turning rows instead of rounds.

R 21 :

33 sc, ch 1, turn (33) leave the remaining stitches unworked

R 22 :

start in the third stitch from the hook skip (ch1 + 1 st), 66 sc ignore the marker at the beginning of the row, ch 1, turn (66)

R 23 :

skip (ch1 + 1 st), 63sc, ch 1, turn (63)

R 24 :

skip (ch1 + 1 st), 60 sc, ch 1, turn (60)

R 25 :

skip (ch1 + 1 st), 49 sc, 37ch, start in third ch from hook, hdc in next 35 ch, sc in next 10 st, now we need to crochet along the edge of the turning rows “ladder”: 3 sc, 1 slst, 37 ch, start in third ch from hook, hdc in next 35 ch, slst in the same st, 37 ch, start in third ch from hook, hdc in next 35 ch, slst in the next (tip) st, slst, 37 ch, start in third ch from hook, hdc in next 35 ch, slst in the same st, 37 ch, start in third ch from hook, hdc in next 35 ch, 3 sc, 10 sc, 37 ch, start in third ch from hook, hdc in next 35 ch, slst. Cut off and fix the yarn.

— CURL UP THE CURLS (KNOTS/BALLS) :

Info :

Make curl up elements by crocheting a chain and then working multiple stitches into each chain to form spirals.

knot R 1 :

6 sc in MR (6)

R 2 :

6 inc (12)

R 3 :

(1 sc, inc)*6 times (18)

R 4 :

1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5 times, 1 sc (24)

R 5 :

(3 sc, inc) *6 times (30)

R 6 :

2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5 times, 2 sc (36)

R 7 :

(5 sc, inc)*6 times (42)

R 8-12 :

42 sc (42)

R 13 :

(5 sc, dec)*6 times (36)

R 14 :

FLO: ((1 sc, 1 dc, 1 sc) in one stitch), skip 1 stitch )*18 times till the end of the row. In the end: sl st. Cut off the yarn, leaving the long end for sewing. Stuff balls.

— FLOWER :

Info :

Crochet 2 leaves using 2.5 mm crochet hook and green colored yarn.

Leaf R 1 :

5 ch and work starting from 2th st from the hook – 1 sc, 2 hdc, 1 sc, 5 ch, starting from 2th st from the hook - 1 sc, 2 hdc, 1 sc, sl st into the last loop of the first leaf, 5 ch, starting from 2th st from the hook - 1 sc, 2 hdc, 1 sc, sl st into the last loop of the first leaf. We leave the thread in order to tie it to the bunch. Sew on the leaves.

Info :

Crochet 2 roses using 2.5 mm crochet hook and red colored yarn. R 1: 6 sc in MR. Sew on the leaves.

— DRESS :

Info :

Use the 2,5 mm crochet hook and light blue colored yarn. The dress is crocheted by turning the rows starting from the neck.

Ch :

Ch 33 and work starting from 2th st from the hook.

Note :

ch 1 and ch 2 at the beginning of the row, does not count as a stitch now and throughout. Crochet the first sc (or dc, hdc) of each round into the base of the ch.

R 1 :

32 sc, turn the work (32)

R 2 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 2 sc, inc, (3 sc, inc)*3 times, 2 sc, (inc, 3 sc)*3 times, inc, 2 sc, turn the work (40)

R 3 :

1 ch, 3 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*3 times, 2 sc, (inc, 4 sc)*3 times, inc, 3 sc, turn the work (48)

R 4 :

1 ch, 4 sc, inc, (5 sc, inc)*3 times, 2 sc, (inc, 5 sc)*3 times, inc, 4 sc, turn the work (56)

R 5 :

1 ch, 8 sc, 4 ch, (skip 12 sc), 16 sc, 4 ch, (skip 12 sc), 8 sc, turn the work (40)

Info :

R 6-R 8: 40 sc, turn (40). Cut off the light blue. Attach the coral yarn.

Assembly Instructions

  • Place the head onto the body so that the eyes look forward; sew the head to the neck with the end of yarn and add stuffing in the neck for strength before finishing sewing.
  • Attach arms so that the top of the arm is level with row 71 of the body when the arms are down by the doll’s sides; ensure thumbs point in the correct direction and sew securely.
  • Position and sew legs to the bottom of the body ensuring even spacing; attach cardboard soles inside shoes for stability before final sewing.
  • Sew wig pieces and curled locks to the crown of the head; pin curls in place and sew securely, hiding ends beneath the wig cap.
  • Attach small flowers and beads to the dress or hair using sewing thread and yarn needle; fix beads with a knot and hide ends inside the work.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of the start of rounds and any turning rows for accurate shaping.
  • 💡Stuff limbs gradually while crocheting to keep consistent shape—do not overstuff to avoid distortion.
  • 💡Weave in ends and secure color changes to prevent unraveling during assembly and play.
  • 💡Mark and check placement of eyes and other facial features before permanently attaching to ensure correct spacing and expression.

This sweet Doll Eliza pattern is a delightful project that combines shaping, clothing and adorable curly hair to create a memorable keepsake. Whether you make one for a friend or keep her as a special toy, Eliza brings charm and personality with every stitch. Enjoy creating and customizing this little companion — happy crocheting! 🧶🧵

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished doll is about 32 cm tall (12.6 inches) using the recommended yarn and crochet hook sizes.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, but changing yarn weight will alter the final size. Adjust hook sizes accordingly and check gauge by making a small sample before starting.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and assumes familiarity with single crochet, increases, decreases, working in the round, and basic assembly techniques.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters will take roughly 12-15 hours total to complete the doll including sewing, stuffing, and finishing touches, although time may vary by skill level.