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Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern

Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern
4.6★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
1.5K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a detailed Death's Head Hawk Moth amigurumi with a removable skull mask and wing suit. It includes fully written rounds, photo tutorials and color-change tips to help you achieve crisp stripes and wing details. The design uses sport/baby weight cotton yarn for a neat, collectible finish.

Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

You will make a stuffed head and segmented caterpillar body, plus layered wings and a small skull to hide join points. Techniques covered include invisible decreases, standing stitches, working in the front or back loops and assembling layered pieces.

Why You'll Love This Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines cute amigurumi shaping with surprising natural details like the skull mask and realistic wing markings. I enjoy the clever color-carrying technique used for the striped body, which keeps ends tidy and reduces sewing. The layered wing construction lets you create a sculpted, three-dimensional look that really pops. Sewing the small skull onto the wings is a satisfying finishing touch that hides joins while adding personality.

Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easily you can customise this pattern to create a whole family of moths by changing colours and scale.

Try pastel shades for a softer, nursery-friendly version — substituting mustard and blue for blush and mint will give a very different mood.

Make a mini keychain by using fingering yarn and a 1.75 mm hook; this reduces the size and creates a cute portable charm.

For a chunky, cuddle-friendly version use a bulky yarn and a larger hook — the wings will hold more textured stitches and look very sculptural.

I often add embroidered veins to the wings or tiny crocheted flowers to the belt for extra personality and detail.

Swap the glass eyes for embroidered circles if the toy is for a young child to keep it fully soft and safe.

You can vary the stripe pattern on the body to create different species or fantasy insects — more blue, less yellow, or even added thin white stripes work well.

Try using variegated yarn for the wings' inner layer to give an iridescent, painterly effect without extra sewing or color changes.

Make the wing belt elastic by using a stretchier stitch or adding a strip of elastic inside — this makes the wing suit easier to put on and take off from the caterpillar body.

I like to add a tiny loop at the back of the belt if I want to hang the finished moth as an ornament or wall decor piece.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers when joining a contrasting color can leave your starting point ambiguous; place a stitch marker at the beginning of each round after color joins to keep track of the start and maintain pattern alignment. ✗ Not stuffing firmly enough in the head and body causes the final toy to look floppy and lose shape; stuff gradually and tightly using small amounts of fiberfill and a poking tool to push stuffing into corners before closing. ✗ Pulling color-carry strands too tight while carrying yarn creates puckering and distorts rounds; carry the yarn loosely across the back and secure occasionally with a small stitch to keep tension consistent. ✗ Forgetting to close rounds invisibly when instructed will leave a visible seam on the top of the head or body; use the invisible fasten off technique (Tutorial F) and weave in ends neatly to maintain a clean finish.

Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern

Make a charming Death's Head Hawk Moth amigurumi with clear step-by-step instructions, color charts and photo tutorials. This pattern guides you through the skull mask, caterpillar body, wings and the removable wing suit so you can transform the caterpillar into a butterfly. Ideal for crafters who enjoy color changes, shaping and assembly to create a detailed, collectible toy.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Sport/Baby weight yarn (size 2 - fine), 100% mercerized cotton 50g / 125m (2oz / 137yd) - use small quantities of colors listed below
  • 02
    Yarn And Colors Must Have: A white 002 Cream - 10g
  • 03
    Yarn And Colors Must Have: B sand 003 Ecru - 10g
  • 04
    Yarn And Colors Must Have: C beige 007 Cigar - 10g
  • 05
    Yarn And Colors Must Have: D black 099 Antracite - 10g
  • 06
    Yarn And Colors Must Have: E yellow 015 Mustard - 10g
  • 07
    Yarn And Colors Must Have: F blue 061 Denim - 5g
  • 08
    Scheepjes Catona equivalents (optional): A white 130 Cream - 10g, B sand 505 Linen - 10g, C beige 254 Moon Rock - 10g, D black 110 Jet Black - 10g, E yellow 208 Yellow Gold - 10g, F blue 247 Bluebird - 5g

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2.25 mm (UK: 13) or 2.5 mm (US: C/2, UK: 12)
  • 02
    2 black eyes (glass or safety eyes), Ø 7 mm / 0.28 inch
  • 03
    Soft stuffing (e.g., Polyfiber Fill)
  • 04
    Darning needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 05
    Pins for assembly
  • 06
    Stitch markers
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Optional: small broken chopstick or stuffing tool to push stuffing into corners

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Info :

Make a magic loop from sand and work in a continuous spiral.

Round 01 :

sc 7 into magic loop (7)

Round 02 :

[inc] 7x (14)

Round 03 :

[sc 1, inc] 7x (21)

Round 04 :

sc 1, inc, [sc 2, inc] 6x, sc 1 (28)

Round 05 :

[sc 3, inc] 7x (35)

Round 06 :

sc 35

Round 07 :

sc 2, inc, [sc 4, inc] 6x, sc 2 (42)

Round 08-13 :

(6 rnds) sc 42

Info :

Place the eyes between rounds 12 and 13 with a distance of 8 sts between the eyes.

Round 14 :

sc 2, dec, [sc 4, dec] 6x, sc 2 (35)

Round 15 :

[dec, sc 3] 7x (28)

Round 16 :

sc 1, dec, [sc 2, dec] 6x, sc 1 (21)

Round 17 :

[dec, sc 1] 7x (14)

Info :

Slst 1 into the next stitch, cut the yarn and fasten off invisibly (→ Tutorial F). Stuff the head well.

— Body :

Info :

At the open end of the head find the stitch that is standing in the middle between the eyes (→ photo 01). Starting in this stitch count 8 sts (any direction) along the open end to find the stitch that is standing in the middle of the back side of the neck (→ photo 01).

Round 18 :

Join black with a standing slst (→ Tutorial E) into the indicated 8th stitch, slst 13 (14)

Round 19 :

[sc-blo 1, inc-blo] 7x (21)

Round 20 :

change to yellow (→ Tutorial B), cut black: [sc 2, inc] 3x, sc 1, change to blue, sc 1, inc, change to yellow, [sc 2, inc] 3x (28)

Info :

TIP: Carry yellow here and throughout when changing to blue (→ photo 02). Don’t cut blue when changing back to yellow but leave it and pull the blue thread diagonally upwards when you reach the point to change to blue again one row above (→ photo 03+04).

Round 21 :

sc 13, change to blue, sc 3, change to yellow, sc 12

Round 22 :

sc 13, change to blue, sc 3, change to yellow, sc 12

Round 23 :

change to black, sc 28

Round 24 :

change to yellow (cut black), sc 13, change to blue, sc 3, change to yellow, sc 12

Round 25 :

dec, sc 2, dec, sc 1, dec, sc 2, dec, change to blue, sc 3, change to yellow, [dec, sc 2] 3x (21)

Round 26 :

[sc 1, dec] 3x, change to blue, sc 1, dec, change to yellow, [sc 1, dec] 3x (14)

Round 27 :

change to black (cut blue and yellow), slst 14

Round 28 :

[sc-flo 1, inc-flo] 7x (21)

Info :

Slst 1, cut black and close rnd invisibly (= closing stitch → Tutorial F). Stuff the upper part of the body now.

Round 29 :

Join yellow with a standing sc into the closing st (→ Tutorial E). Place marker (= new beginning of following rnds), sc 1, inc, [sc 2, inc] 2x, change to blue (carry yellow here and throughout), sc 3, change to yellow, [inc, sc 2] 3x (27)

Round 30 :

sc 12, change to blue, sc 3, change to yellow, sc 12

Round 31 :

change to black, sc 27

Round 32 :

change to yellow (cut black), sc 12, change to blue, sc 3, change to yellow, sc 12

Round 33 :

[sc 2, dec] 3x, change to blue, sc 3, change to yellow, [dec, sc 2] 3x (21)

Round 34 :

change to black, [dec, sc 1] 7x (14)

Round 35 :

slst 14

Info :

Stuff the middle part of the body.

Round 36 :

change to yellow (cut black), [sc-flo 1, inc-flo] 3x, change to blue, sc-flo 3, change to yellow, [inc-flo, sc-flo 1] 2x, inc-flo (20)

Round 37 :

sc 9, change to blue, sc 3, change to yellow, sc 8

Round 38 :

[sc 1, dec] 3x, change to blue, sc 3, change to yellow, [dec, sc 1] 2x, dec (14)

Round 39 :

[dec] 3x, change to blue, sc3tog, change to yellow, [dec] 2x, sc 1 (7)

Info :

Stuff the lower body part, then cut the yarn. Close the remaining 7 stitches through the front loops (→ Tutorial G) and weave in the ends.

— Caterpillar :

Info :

The caterpillar of the Death’s Head Hawk Moth is approx. 13 cm (5 inch) long. It is made by the upper and lower rounds of the body with the striping pattern and shaping as described in the body section.

— Skull Mask :

Info :

Make a magic loop from white. After rnd 13, pull the hat straight onto the head.

Round 01 :

sc 7 into magic loop (7)

Round 02 :

[inc] 7x (14)

Round 03 :

[sc 1, inc] 7x (21)

Round 04 :

sc 1, inc, [sc 2, inc] 6x, sc 1 (28)

Round 05 :

[sc 3, inc] 7x (35)

Round 06 :

sc 35

Round 07 :

sc 2, inc, [sc 4, inc] 6x, sc 2 (42)

Round 08-13 :

(5 rnds) sc 45

Info :

After rnd 13, pull the hat straight onto the head. The rim should be 2 rnds above the eyes (→ photo 06). If the hat is too short, work an additional round with 45 sc.

Round 14 :

sc 15, slst 6, sc 3, slst 6, sc 15 (51)

Round 15 :

sc 15, ch 7, sk 6, dc 1, into the next stitch: °dc 1 + ch 2 + dc 1°, dc 1, ch 7, sk 6, sc 15 (51)

Round 16 :

sc 14, sk 1 (→ photo 08), sc 8 into ch7sp, sk 2, °sc 3° into ch2sp (→ photo 09), sk 2, sc 8 into ch7sp, sk 1, sc 14 (47)

Round 17 :

sc 14, sk 1, slst 7, into next st: °slst 1 + ch 1 + sc 1°, sc 1 into next st: °sc 1 + ch 1 + slst 1°, slst 7, sk 1, sc 14 (47)

Info :

Slst 1 into the next stitch, cut the yarn and fasten off invisibly (→ Tutorial F).

— Antennae (MAKE 2) :

Info :

Make a foundation chain of 4 ch from beige.

Item Name (P1) :

Work into the bumps on the back of the chain, starting in the 2nd back bump (→ Tutorial C): sc 2, slst 1.

Info :

Cut the yarn and fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew the antenna onto the skull hat. Sew the antennae onto the hat, between rnds 08 and 09, with a distance of 2 sts between the antennae (→ photo 11).

— Details :

Info :

With pink yarn, embroider CHEEKS onto the skull hat (→ photo 11). Embroider a bright spot onto each large wing using sand colored yarn. Add a black line right next to the bright spot. On the small wings embroider three black spots (→ photo 41).

— Wing Suit — Large Wings (MAKE 2) :

Info :

Each wing is made from 2 layers – PIECE 1 and PIECE 2 – assembled to become a left or a right wing. Note: The first stitch to work into at the beginning of a new row is the stitch at the base of the turning ch-4. Ch 4 at the beginning of a row count as one stitch. Ch 1 at the beginning of a row does not count as a stitch.

PIECE 1 - Row 01 :

With beige make a foundation chain of 15 ch. Starting in the 5th ch from hook, work along the chain: °dc 2° into the 5th ch, dc 1, hdc 3, sc 3, slst 3, turn (13)

PIECE 1 - Row 02 :

ch 1, slst 3, sc 3, hdc 3, dc 2, °dc 2° into the next st, °dc 1 + tr 1° into the last st (= into top of the beginning ch-4 → photo 13+14), turn (15)

PIECE 1 - Row 03 :

ch 4, dc 1 into the st at the base of the turning ch-4 (→ photo 12), °dc 2° into the next st, dc 1, hdc 3, sc 3, slst 2, leave remaining sts unworked (→ photo 15), turn (14)

PIECE 1 - Row 04 :

ch 1, slst 3, sc 3, hdc 3, dc 2, °dc 2° into the next st, °dc 1 + tr 1° into last st, turn (15)

PIECE 1 - Row 05 :

ch 3, dc 1 into the st at the base of the turning ch-3, °dc 2° into the next st, dc 3, hdc 4, sc 6, along the remaining sts of row 02 (→ photo 16): hdc 1, sc 2, slst 1 (21)

Info :

Cut the yarn and fasten off. Rotate, so that long side of the wing is up and the top side of the wing is on the left. Work into the ends of the rows along the long side (→ photo 18).

PIECE 1 - Edge Join :

Join black with a standing sc (→ Tutorial E) into the end of the first row (→ photo 18), °sc 2° into the same space, °sc 3° into the end of each of the next 4 rows. Cut the yarn, fasten off and weave in all ends. Make another piece the same way.

PIECE 2 :

Follow the instructions as given for PIECE 1 until the end of row 05. Cut the yarn and fasten off. Turn the piece with the backside facing you. Rotate 90°, so that long side of the wing is up and the top side of the wing is on the right (→ photo 20). Work into the ends of the rows along the long side. Join black with a standing sc (→ Tutorial E) into the end of the first row (→ photo 20), °sc 2° into the same space, °sc 3° into the end of each of the next 4 rows. Cut the yarn, fasten off and weave in all ends. Make another piece the same way.

ASSEMBLING PIECE 1 AND 2 (LEFT WING) :

Hold PIECE 1 and PIECE 2 together, so that they lay flat on top of each other - PIECE 1 on top of PIECE 2. Make sure the right sides of both black rows are visible outside. Rotate 180°, so that the bottom side of the wing is up and the large top side is down, short side of the wing to the right (→ photo 22). Crochet the sts of the following rnd into the corresponding sts or spaces on both layers to connect them.

LEFT WING - Bottom side :

Join beige with a standing sc (→ Tutorial E) into the first remaining loop of the foundation chain (→ photo 23). Along the bottom side of the wing: sc 10 along the remaining loops of the foundation chains.

LEFT WING - Long side :

Rotate 90°, along the long side into the black sts: sc 1, °sc 2°, sc 12, °sc 2 + ch 1°.

LEFT WING - Top side :

Rotate 90°, along the top side of the wing: hdc 1 into the same space as the black sts (→ photo 24), sc 19, into the last st: °sc 1 + ch 1 + sc 1°.

LEFT WING - Short side :

Rotate 90°, along the short side of the wing: sc 1 into the end of the row in the center (→ photo 25), sc 1 into the same spot as 1st stitch of the rnd (→ photo 25). Cut the yarn with a long rest and close invisibly into first st (= standing sc) → Tutorial F.

RIGHT WING :

Hold PIECE 1 and PIECE 2 together, so that they lay flat on top of each other - PIECE 2 on top of PIECE 1. Make sure the right sides of both black rows are visible outside - the top side of the wing is up, bottom side is down, short side points to the right (→ photo 26). Crochet the sts of the following rnd into the corresponding stitches or spaces on both layers to connect them.

RIGHT WING - Top side :

On the top side of the wing, join beige with a standing sc into the first st into the first st in the right corner (→ photo 27), sc 19 along the top side, hdc 1 into the same space as the black sts (→ photo 28), ch 1.

RIGHT WING - Long side :

Rotate 90°, along the long side, into the black sts: °sc 2°, sc 12, °sc 2°, sc 1.

RIGHT WING - Bottom side :

Rotate 90°, along the bottom side of the wing: sc 10 along the remaining loops of the foundation chains, °sc 1 + ch 1 + sc 1° into the last st. Cut the yarn with a long rest and close invisibly into first st (= standing sc) → Tutorial F.

— Small Wings (MAKE 2) :

Info :

Each wing is made from 2 layers of PIECE 3 – assembled to become a left or a right wing. Note: The first stitch to work into at the beginning of a new row is the stitch at the base of the turning ch-3. Ch 3 at the beginning of a row count as one stitch. Ch 1 at the beginning of a row does not count as a stitch.

PIECE 3 - Row 01 :

With yellow make a foundation chain of 10 ch. Starting in the 4th ch from hook, work along the chain: hdc 2, sc 3, slst 2, turn (8)

PIECE 3 - Row 02 :

ch 1, slst 2, sc 2, hdc 3, °hdc 1 + dc 1° into the last st (→ photo 30), turn (9)

PIECE 3 - Row 03 :

ch 3, hdc 1 into the st at the base of the turning ch-3 (→ photo 31), hdc 1, sc 2, slst 2, leave remaining sts unworked, turn (7)

PIECE 3 - Row 04 :

ch 1, slst 2, sc 2, hdc 2, °hdc 1 + dc 1° into the last st (→ photo 32). Cut the yarn, fasten off and weave in the ends. Make 3 more C-pieces.

ASSEMBLING TWO PIECES TO MAKE ONE SMALL WING (LEFT) :

Hold two wing pieces (PIECE 3) together, so that they lay flat on top of each other - rotate 180° so that the top side is down and the short side of the wing is on the right (→ photo 33). Crochet the sts of the following rnd into the corresponding sts or spaces on both layers to connect them.

LEFT SMALL WING - Bottom side :

On the bottom side of the wing work into the remaining loops of the foundation chain. Join yellow with a standing sc into the first stitch (→ photo 34), sc 6 along the bottom side, change to black (→ Tutorial B, photo 35).

LEFT SMALL WING - Long side :

Rotate 90°. Along the long side of the wing, into the ends of the rows: °sc 1 + hdc 4° into the first row, skip the end of the second row, °hdc 2 + dc 2° into the end of the third row, °dc 3 + hdc 1 + sc 1° into the end of the last row, change to yellow (→ photo 36).

LEFT SMALL WING - Top side :

Rotate 90°, along the top side of the wing: sc 7, then into the remaining sts of row 03: dc 1, hdc 1, °sc 1 + ch 1 + sc 1° into the last st (→ photo 37), ch 1.

Left small wing - Finish :

Rotate 90°, slst 1 into first st to close the rnd. Cut the yarn with a long rest and fasten off. Make the right wing the same way, mirrored.

— Mini Skull :

Info :

The mini skull hides the point where the wings are joined to the belt on the back of the wing suit.

Mini Skull - Round 01 :

Make a magic loop from sand. ch 3, into the loop: dc 4, ch 4, hdc 1, ch 1, hdc 1, ch 4, close rnd with a slst into 3rd beginning-ch

Mini Skull - Round 02 :

sc 4, sc 5 into the ch4sp, into the ch1sp: °slst 1 + ch 2 + hdc 2 + ch 2 + slst 1°, sc 5 into the ch4sp (→ photo 42). Cut the yarn with a long rest and close the rnd invisibly (→ Tutorial F).

— Wing Belt :

Info :

The wing belt – a crochet rectangle finished into a ring – is the part that the insect’s wings will be attached to, to create a wing suit that can be pulled on and off.

Wing Belt - Rows :

With black make a foundation chain of 12 ch. Crochet along the chain, starting in 2nd ch from hook. 01: slst-blo 11, turn (11). 02–35: (34 rows) ch 1, slst-blo 11, turn. Do not fasten off! (→ photo 43)

Wing Belt - Join :

Ch 1, turn the rectangle into a ring by holding the first and last rows next to each other. Crochet together the remaining loops of the foundation chain at the bottom of the first row with the corresponding back loops of the stitches on the last row (→ photo 44 = seam). Slst the ends together stitch by stitch. Break yarn and fasten off. Weave in the ends on the inside of the belt.

— Assembling the Wing Suit :

Step 01 :

MAKING TWO PAIRS OF WINGS: Sew the top side of the small wing in front of the large wing. Their edges lay one above the other (→ photo 45+46). Weave in the ends and work the same way to make a second pair of wings.

Step 02 :

SEWING THE WINGS ONTO THE BELT: With the backside of the wings facing, sew one wing pair next to the seam of the belt (→ photo 47). Then, sew the second pair of wings onto the other side of the seam (→ photo 48).

Step 03 :

ATTACH THE SKULL: Cover the point where the wings join with the mini skull. Sew the skull onto the wings, inserting the needle around the posts of the stitches of the skull (→ photo 50).

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew the top side of each small wing in front of its large wing so their edges align and lay one above the other (photo reference 45+46).
  • Sew the wing pairs onto the wing belt with the backside of the wings facing the belt seam: attach one pair next to the seam and the other pair to the opposite side (photo reference 47+48).
  • Cover the point where the wings join by sewing the mini skull over the seam and secure it around the posts of the skull stitches for a neat finish (photo reference 50).
  • Attach the skull hat to the head and sew antennae between rounds 08 and 09, spacing them two stitches apart for symmetry.
  • Place the completed head onto the stuffed body opening and secure by sewing through the neck opening into the body, making sure the striped body aligns with the head markings.
  • Weave in all color-carrying ends and secure any long color floats by tacking them across the inside of the piece with small stitches to prevent unraveling.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to mark the first stitch of each round to keep track of your rounds and decreases.
  • 💡Stuff the head and body very firmly but incrementally to achieve the correct shape — add stuffing a little at a time and use a tool to push it into small corners.
  • 💡When carrying colors do not pull the carried yarn too tight; carry loosely and secure where necessary to avoid puckering.
  • 💡If making for a child under age three, replace glass safety eyes with embroidered eyes and ensure all parts are tightly sewn on to prevent detachment.

This Death's Head Hawk Moth amigurumi is full of tiny details and personality, from the removable skull mask to the striped caterpillar body and layered wings. Create a unique collectible or a thoughtful handmade gift with this pattern. Enjoy the process, experiment with colours, and display your finished moth with pride. 🧶✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 11-13 cm tall for the caterpillar/bug depending on yarn tension and positioning of the wings.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but this will change the final size significantly; if using a thicker yarn choose a larger hook and expect a chunkier result.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and assumes familiarity with basic amigurumi techniques, invisible decreases, front/back loop stitches, and reading short crochet abbreviations.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though the time will vary depending on experience level, the number of color changes and the amount of assembly work.