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Corfu Bag Pattern

Corfu Bag Pattern
3.9★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
3.2K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

✨

Stylish Touch

An elegant detail to elevate any look, combining traditional techniques with contemporary design sensibilities.

About This Corfu Bag Pattern

This pattern creates a structured, textured tote bag with embossed front-post motifs and a contrasting background. It includes charted motifs, step-by-step instructions for the circular bottom, bag sides worked in the round, upper edge reinforcement and spiral cord handles. The finished bag is designed to be durable and practical while offering a decorative, sculptural surface.

Corfu Bag Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The Corfu Bag uses two colors: a background and an embossed element color for striking contrast. The pattern includes charts for rounds 26–86, photo tutorials for special stitches and clear finishing instructions for backing, handles and optional lining.

Why You'll Love This Corfu Bag Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because the embossed front- and back-post motifs create a beautiful sculptural texture that changes with light. I enjoy how the design balances structure and decorative detail — the reinforced upper edge and spiral cord handles give it a professional finish. Working the bag in the round with charted sections is satisfying and keeps each round engaging. I also love that the pattern includes optional lining and interfacing instructions, so you can tailor the finish to your needs.

Corfu Bag Pattern step 1 - construction progress Corfu Bag Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Corfu Bag Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Corfu Bag Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this bag by changing colors — try soft pastels for a spring look or bold contrasts for a modern statement.

If you want a smaller or larger bag, change the yarn weight and hook size and make a gauge swatch first; bulky yarn yields a chunky tote while fine yarn makes a delicate bag.

Consider adding an internal pocket to your lining for organization or a snap closure for security — both are simple sewing additions after you make the lining piece.

For more structure, use a slightly stiffer interfacing or add a narrow non-stretch tape inside the spiral cord during construction to keep handles from stretching over time.

I often stitch a fabric loop at the inside top of the bag to hang keys or a small pouch; it is an easy way to add functionality without altering the crochet work.

To make the bag more casual, substitute a cotton-blend DK yarn; for a dressier look, try a mercerized cotton in high contrast colors to emphasize the embossed motif.

Experiment with the number of spiral cord rows to change handle thickness — more rounds make a chunkier handle, fewer rounds make a sleeker strap.

If you prefer fewer sewing steps, consider lining only the bottom portion of the bag and leaving the top raw with a stitched upper edge backing for a different finish.

Play with the fish stripe detail by using a third accent color for that small area to make a unique pop of color across the motif repeats.

I also sometimes add small decorative tassels or a crocheted charm to the handle loop for a playful finishing touch that personalizes each bag.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Not checking the gauge before starting can lead to a bag that is too small or too large; make the gauge swatch as instructed (23 sts x 15 rows = 10cm x 10cm) and adjust hook or tension accordingly. ✗ Forgetting to mark the stitches for B3i and other complex groups will cause misplacement of embossed elements; place markers exactly as directed in Rnd 26 so you can find the special stitches later. ✗ Switching colors at the wrong time can create loose floats and messy joins; always use the next color to finish the previous stitch and make the last yarn over with the new color as instructed. ✗ Skipping the interfacing for the upper edge will make the top collapse over time; add buckram or stiff interfacing and baste it in place for a stable, durable edge. ✗ Overstuffing the bag lining or stretching the spiral cord while measuring can distort the finished shape; measure and tension the cord carefully and insert a non-stretch tape if needed to stabilize the handle.

Corfu Bag Pattern

Make a stylish Corfu Bag with embossed crochet motifs and sturdy spiral cord handles. This pattern guides you through the structured bottom, detailed embossed sides, reinforced upper edge and step-by-step handle construction so you can create a beautiful handcrafted tote. Ideal for crafters who enjoy textured crochet and polished finishing techniques.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Corfu Bag Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    DK weight yarn with a ratio of 120-130 meters (131-142 yards) per 50 grams (recommended: Scheepjes Catona 100% Mercerized Cotton, Fingering weight, 50g/125m/136.7yds)
  • 02
    Yarn1 (background): 4 skeins / 170g / 465 yds in Silver Blue (background color)
  • 03
    Yarn2 (embossed elements): 7 skeins / 305g / 834 yds in Moon Rock (accent color)
  • 04
    Optional lining fabric: piece measuring approximately 40cm / 15 3/4" x 80cm / 31 1/2" (measure finished bag before cutting)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook: 2.75mm
  • 02
    Tapestry needle
  • 03
    Hand-sewing needle
  • 04
    Sewing thread matching the background color
  • 05
    Interfacing for upper edge: piece of buckram or other stiff interfacing measuring approximately 7cm x 80cm / 2 3/4" x 31 1/2"
  • 06
    Scissors
  • 07
    Stitch markers
  • 08
    Pins for assembly
  • 09
    Measuring tape
  • 10
    Optional: narrow non-stretchable tape for spiral cord reinforcement

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Bag bottom :

Inc Rnd 1 :

with Yarn2 ch4, ss in 1st ch, ch2 (counts as dc), 8 dc (make them as short as possible) in ch4-ring, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2. (9dc)

Inc Rnd 2 :

ch2 (doesn't count as st throughout bag bottom), F2i (in beg ch-2 from pr), 8 F2i, sk ch-2 (throughout bag bottom), ss (in 1st F throughout bottom). (18F)

Inc Rnd 3 :

ch2, F2i (in 1st F from pr (ignore ch-2) throughout bottom), F, [F2i, F]x8, ss. (27sts)

Inc Rnd 4 :

ch2, [2F, F2i]x9, ss. (36sts)

Inc Rnd 5 :

ch2, [F2i, 3F]x9, ss. (45sts)

Inc Rnd 6 :

ch2, 2F, [F2i, 4F]x8, F2i, 2F, ss. (54 sts)

Inc Rnd 7 :

ch2, 4F, [F2i, 5F]x8, F2i, F, ss. (63sts)

Inc Rnd 8 :

ch2, [6F, F2i]x9, ss. (72sts)

Inc Rnd 9 :

ch2, [F2i, 7F]x9, ss. (81sts)

Inc Rnd 10 :

ch2, 2F, [F2i, 8F]x8, F2i, 6F, ss. (90sts)

Inc Rnd 11 :

ch2, 4F, [F2i, 14F]x5, F2i, 10F, ss. (96sts)

Inc Rnd 12 :

ch2, 6F, [F2i, 15F]x5, F2i, 9F, ss. (102sts)

Inc Rnd 13 :

ch2, 8F, [F2i, 16F]x5, F2i, 8F, ss. (108sts)

Inc Rnd 14 :

ch2, 10F, [F2i, 17F]x5, F2i, 7F, ss. (114sts)

Inc Rnd 15 :

ch2, 12F, [F2i, 18F]x5, F2i, 6F, ss. (120sts)

Inc Rnd 16 :

ch2, 14F, [F2i, 19F]x5, F2i, 5F, ss. (126sts)

Inc Rnd 17 :

ch2, 16F, [F2i, 20F]x5, F2i, 4F, ss. (132sts)

Inc Rnd 18 :

ch2, 18F, [F2i, 21F]x5, F2i, 3F, ss. (138sts)

Inc Rnd 19 :

ch2, 20F, [F2i, 22F]x5, F2i, 2F, ss. (144sts)

Inc Rnd 20 :

ch2, 22F, [F2i, 23F]x5, F2i, F, ss. (150sts)

Inc Rnd 21 :

ch2, [24F, F2i]x6, ss. (156sts)

Inc Rnd 22 :

ch2, [F2i, 38F]x4, ss. (160sts)

Inc Rnd 23 :

ch2, 2F, [F2i, 39F]x3, F2i, 37F, ss. (164sts)

Inc Rnd 24 :

ch2, 4F, [F2i, 40F]x3, F2i, 36F, ss. (168sts)

Inc Rnd 25 :

ch2, 6F, [F2i, 41F]x3, F2i, 35F, ss. (172sts)

Inc Rnd 26 :

ch2, 8F, [F2i, 42F]x3, F2i, 34F, with Yarn1 ss. (176sts)

Info :

Mark stitches for making B3i: pm in 1st F of Rnd 26, [sk 21F, pm in next F]x7 (21F rem to 1st F). (176sts)

— Bag sides :

Infos :

Chart 2 on next page. Video for embossed crochet stitches: https://youtu.be/0Pz8FJQPKvs. Written instructions do not remind you to switch yarn. Make highlighted stitches with Yarn2, all other stitches with Yarn1. See Special stitches and abbreviations on p. 4 and General rules for embossed crochet on p. 4.

Video Part 2. Rnd 27 :

Rnd 27 (RS): with Yarn1 ch2 (counts as 1st B of B3i), shallow B2i in 1st F from pr (counts as 2nd and 3rd B of B3i), [*F2t, 17F, F2t*, shallow B3i]x7, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 28 :

ch2 (counts as 1st B of B2i), B in same st (in ch-2 from pr; counts as 2nd B of B2i), [*B, B2i, F2t, 15F, F2t*, B2i]x7, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 29 :

ch2 (counts as 1st B of B2i), B in ch-2 from pr (counts as 2nd B of B2i), [*3B, B2i, F2t, 13F, F2t*, B2i]x7, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 30 :

ch2 (counts as 1st B of B2i), B in ch-2 from pr, [*2B, F, 2B, B2i, F2t, 11F, F2t, B2i, 5B, B2i, F2t, 11F, F2t*, B2i]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 31 :

ch2 (counts as 1st B of B2i), B in ch-2 from pr, [*3B, F, 3B, B2i, F2t, 9F, F2t, B2i, 7B, B2i, F2t, 9F, F2t*, B2i]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 32 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*4B, F3i, 5B, F2t, 7F, F2t, B2i, 9B, B2i, F2t, 7F, F2t*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 33 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*2B, B2t, F2i, hdc bet F's, F, hdc in bet F's, F2i, B2t, 3B, F2i, 3F, B3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts), 3F, F2i, 3B, B2i, F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts), B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 34 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*B, B2t (2nd leg in 2 posts), 2 F2i, B in hdc, F, B in hdc, 2 F2i, B2t (1st leg in 2 posts), 2B, F2t, 3F, F2t, B2i, B;]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 35 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*B2t (2nd leg in 2 posts), F2i, 3F, B2i, F, B2i, 3F, F2i, B2t (1st leg in 2 posts), B, F2t, F, F2t, B2i, 2B, 2 F2i, B2t (1st leg in 2 posts), B3t, B2t (2nd leg in 2 posts), 2 F2i, 2B, B2i, F2t, F, F2t*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 36 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*B (in 2 posts), 5F, B2i, B, F, B, B2i, 5F, B, 2 B (1st in 2 posts), F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts), B2i, 3B, F2i, 3F, B3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts; 2nd leg in 3 posts), 3F, F2i, 3B, B2i, F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts)]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 37 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*B, F2t, F, F2t, B2i, 2B, F3i, 2B, B2i, F2t, F, F2t, 2B (finish with Yarn1), with Yarn2 F (in 3 posts of F3t) and finish with Yarn1, 4B, B2i, 4F, F3t (2nd leg in 3 posts), 4F, B2i, 4B (finish last B with Yarn1), with Yarn2 F (in 3 posts); finish with Yarn1]*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Shift beg of rnd :

turn to WS, 7ss (in prev 7sts: F, 4B, B2i), turn to minimize visibility of ch-2 at beg of rounds.

Rnd 38 :

ch2 (counts as 1st B of B2i), B in same st (in 1st B after F from pr; counts as 2nd B of B2i), [*8B (6th in F; finish last B with Yarn1), with Yarn2 F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts; finish with Yarn1), 4B, F2i, hdc in bet F's, F, hdc in bet F's, F2i, 4B (finish last B with Yarn1), with Yarn2 F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts); finish with Yarn1], 8B (3rd in F), B2i, 3F, F3t (2nd leg in 3 posts), 3F, B2i, 3B, F3t, 3F, B2i, 8B], rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 39 :

ch2 (counts as 1st B of B2i), B in same st (in ch-2 from pr), [*B2i, 9B (last is shallow B in F3t), 2 B2t, 2 F2i, B in hdc, F, B in hdc, 2 F2i, 2 B2t, 4B (1st is shallow B in F3t), F2i, F, F2t (1st leg in next F, sk B2t, 2nd leg in nextF), F in same st as 2nd leg of prev F2t, 12F, F2t (1st leg in same st as last of 12F, sk B2t, 2nd leg in next F), F, F2i*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 40 :

ch2 (counts as 1st B of B2i), B in same st (in ch-2 from pr), [*10B, B2t, B2t (both legs in 2 posts), F2i, 3F, F2i, 3F, B2t, 10B, B2i, F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts), (both legs in 2 posts), B2t, 10B, B2i, F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts)], rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 41 :

ch2 (counts as 1st leg of B2t), B in 1st B after ch-2 from pr (counts as 2nd leg of B2t), [*10B, B2t (both legs in 2 posts), 5F, B2i, B, F, B, B2i, 5F, B2t (both legs in 2 posts), 10B, B2t, F3i (in 3 posts)*, B2t]x3, rep bet *'s, sk ch-2, ss in 1st B.

Rnd 42 :

ch2 (counts as 1st leg of B2t), B in 2nd B after ch-2 from pr (counts as 2nd leg of B2t), [*10B (last in 2 posts), F2t, F, F2t, B2i, 2B, F3i, 2B, B2i, F2t, F, F2t, 10B]*x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 1st B.

Rnd 43 :

ch2 (counts as 1st leg of B2t), B in 2nd B after ch-2 from pr (counts as 2nd leg of B2t), [*9B and finish last st with Yarn1, with Yarn2 F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts) and finish with Yarn1, 4B, F2i, hdc in bet F's, F, hdc in bet F's, F2i, 4B and finish last st with Yarn1, with Yarn2 F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts) and finish with Yarn1, 9B, B2t (2nd leg in 2 posts), F2i, 3F, F2i*, B2i]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 44 :

ch2 (counts as 1st leg of B2t), B in 2nd B after ch-2 from pr (counts as 2nd leg of B2t), [*9B (last is shallow B in F3t), 2 B2t, 2 F2i, B in hdc, F, B in hdc, 2 F2i, 2 B2t, 9B], rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 45 :

ch2 (counts as 1st leg of B2t), B in 2nd B after ch-2 from pr, [*6B, B2t, B2t (both legs in 2 posts), F2i, 3F, B2i, F, B2i, 3F, F2i, B2t, 6B, B2t]*x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 46 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*6B, B2t (both legs in 2 posts), 5F, B2i, B, F, B, B2i, 5F, B2t (both legs in 2 posts), 7B (last in 2 posts), F and finish with Yarn1, fish stripe: with Yarn1 9F and finish with Yarn2, F*, B (in 2 posts)]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Shift beg of round :

with RS facing, 5ss (in 5B), to shift beginning of round and adjust placement of stitches.

Rnd 47 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*2B (2nd in 2 posts), F2t, F, F2t, B2i, 2B, F3i, 2B, B2i, F2t, F, F2t, 3B (1st in 2 posts), F2i, 2 B2t, F2i, 9F, F2i, 2 B2t, F2i*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 48 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*2B and finish last B with Yarn1, with Yarn2 F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts) and finish st with Yarn1, 4B, F2i, hdc in bet F's, F, hdc in bet F's, F2i, 4B and finish last B with Yarn1, with Yarn2 F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts) and finish with Yarn1, 3B, F2i, F, B2t (both legs in 2 posts), F, F2i*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 49 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*3B (last is shallow B in F3t), 2 B2t, 2 F2i, B in hdc, F, B in hdc, 2 F2i, 2 B2t, 4B (1st is shallow B in F3t), F2i, F, F2t (1st leg in next F), sk B2t, 2nd leg in next F, F, F2i*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 50 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*B, B2t, B2t (both legs in 2 posts), F2i, 3F, B2i, F, B2i, 3F, F2i, B2t, 2B, F2i, F, F2t, B2i, F, F2i*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 51 :

ch2 (counts as 1st B of B2i), B in ch-2 from pr, [*B, B2t (both legs in 2 posts), 5F, B2i, B, F, B, B2i, 5F, B2t, B, 2F, F2t (2nd leg in 2 posts), 13F, F2t (1st leg in 2 posts), 2F*, B2i]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 52 :

ch2 (counts as 1st B of B2i), B in ch-2 from pr, [*B2i, 2B (2nd in 2 posts), F2t, F, F2t, B2i, 2B, F3i, 2B, B2i, F2t, F, F2t, 2B]*x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2. fish stripe: with Yarn1 13F and finish with Yarn2.

Rnd 53 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*5B and finish last st with Yarn1, with Yarn2 F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts) and finish st with Yarn1, 4B, F2i, hdc in bet F's, F, hdc in bet F's, F2i, 4B, with Yarn2 F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts) and finish with Yarn1, 6B, 15F (1st and last in 3 posts)*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 54 :

ch2 (counts as 1st B of B2i), B in ch-2 from pr, [*6B (last is shallow B in F3t), 2 B2t, 2 F2i, B in hdc, F, B in hdc, 2 F2i, 2 B2t, 6B (1st is shallow B in F3t), B2i, F and finish with Yarn1, fish stripe: with Yarn1 F2t, 9F, F2t and finish with Yarn2, F*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 55 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*5B, B2t, B2t (both legs in 2 posts), F2i, 3F, B2i, F, B2i, 3F, F2i, B2t (both legs in 2 posts), 2B]*x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 56 :

ch2 (counts as 1st B of B2i), B in ch-2 from pr (counts as 2nd B of B2i), [*5B, B2t (both legs in 2 posts), 5F, B2i, B, F, B, B2i, 5F, B2t, 2B]*x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 57 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*7B (last in 2 posts), F2t, F, F2t, B2i, 2B, F3i, 2B, B2i, F2t, F, F2t, 8B (1st in 2 posts), 11F (2nd and 10th in 2 posts)*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 58 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*4B, F3i, B2t and finish with Yarn1, with Yarn2 F3t and finish with Yarn1, 2 B2i, 2B, 3F, 2B, 2 B2i and finish last B with Yarn1, with Yarn2 F3t and finish with Yarn1, B2t, F3i, 5B, F2t, 7F, F2t*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 59 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*4B, F2i, F, F2i, B2t (1st leg in 2 posts; 2nd leg is shallow B in F3t), 4B, B2t, F2i, F, F2i, B2t, 4B, B2t (1st leg is shallow B in F3t; 2nd leg in 2 posts), F2i, F, F2i, 5B, F2t, 5F, F2t*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 60 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*4B, F2i, 3F, F2i, B2t (1st leg in 2 posts), 4 B (last in 2 posts), 5F, 4B (1st in 2 posts), B2t (2nd leg in 2 posts), F2i, 3F, F2i, 5B, F2t, 3F, F2t*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 61 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*4B, F2i, 5F, F2i, B2t (1st leg in 2 posts), 3B, 5F, 3B, B2t (2nd leg in 2 posts), F2i, 5F, F2i, 5B, F2t, F, F2t*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 62 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*4B, F2i, 7F, F2i, 4B (1st in 2 posts), F2t, F, F2t, 4B (last in 2 posts), F2i, 7F, F2i, 5B and finish with Yarn1, with Yarn2 F3t and finish with Yarn1*], B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Shift beg of round :

turn to WS, 6ss (in prev 6sts: F3t and 5B), turn.

Rnd 63 :

ch2 (counts as 1st leg of B2t), B in 2nd B after F2i from pr (counts as 2nd leg of B2t), [*7B (4th is shallow B in 3 posts of F3t), B2t, F2i, 9F, F2i, 4B and finish with Yarn1, with Yarn2 F3t and finish with Yarn1, 4B, F2i, 9F, F2i*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 64 :

ch2 (counts as 1st leg of B2t), B in 2nd B after ch-2 from pr (counts as 2nd leg of B2t), [*5B, B2t (2nd leg in 2 posts), F2i, 11F, F2i, B2t, 5B (3rd is shallow B in 3 posts of F3t), B2t, F2i, 11F, F2i*, B2t (1st leg in 2 posts)]x3, rep bet *'s, sk ch-2, ss in 1st B.

Rnd 65 :

ch2 (counts as 1st leg of B2t), B in 2nd B after ch-2 from pr, [*3B, B2t (2nd leg in 2 posts), F2i, 13F, F2i*, B2t (1st leg in 2 posts)]x7, rep bet *'s, sk ch-2, ss in 1st B.

Rnd 66 :

ch2 (counts as 1st leg of B2t), B in 2nd B after ch-2 from pr, [*B, B2t (2nd leg in 2 posts), F2i, 15F, F2i*, B2t (1st leg in 2 posts)]x7, rep bet *'s, sk ch-2, ss in 1st B.

Rnd 67 :

ch2 (counts as 1st leg of B3t), B2t (1st leg in 2nd B after ch-2 from pr, 2nd leg in 2 posts; counts as 2nd and 3rd legs of B3t), [*F2i, 17F, F2i*, B3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts)]x7, rep bet *'s, with Yarn1 ss in B2t. (176sts)

Dec Rnd 68 :

with Yarn2 ss in next F, ch2 (doesn't count as st), F in same st, 20F, [sk B3t, 21F]x7, sk B3t, sk ch-2, ss in 1st F. (168 sts)

Dec Rnd 69 :

ch2 (doesn't count as st), F in same st (in 1st F from pr), 8F, F2t, 10F, [9F, F2t, 10F]x7, sk ch-2, with Yarn1 ss in 1st F. (160sts)

— Upper edge backing :

Dec Rnd 70 :

ch1 (doesn't count as st), sc blo in same st, [*3sc blo, sc2tog blo, 8sc blo, sc2tog blo*, 5sc blo]x7, rep bet *'s, 4sc blo, ss blo in 1st sc. (144sts)

Rnds 71-86 :

ch1 (doesn't count as st), sc blo in same st, 143 sc blo, ss blo in 1st sc. Fasten off after Rnd 86. (144sts)

— Reinforcing upper edge backing with buckram :

Info :

To determine the size of the strip for the upper edge backing, unfold it and measure its width. Multiply the width by 2 and add 2cm to account for overlapping of the short edges. Approximate measurements: 7cm x 80cm (2 3/4" x 31 1/2"). Cut a piece of buckram or other stiff interfacing to measurements. Turn bag inside out and apply buckram interfacing to the wrong side of the upper edge backing. Overlap edges of the buckram. Basting and stitching recommended because interfacing doesn't fuse well to crocheted fabric.

— Spiral cord handles (x2) :

Info :

Video: https://youtu.be/Th1hfMbRoAQ. With Yarn2 leave 30cm/12" tail, make 78cm / 30 3/4" long 8-sts spiral cord, starting with one 4sc-row (video and pictures show 10 rows). Fasten off, leaving 30cm / 12" tail. Measure while cord is fully stretched. The spiral cord has stretchability; to prevent excessive stretching insert a narrow non-stretchable tape inside the cord after creating approx 1cm of the cord and sew ends of tape to beginning and end of cord.

— Flat part to attach strap to D-ring :

Row 1 :

leave 20cm/8" end for a seam, ch5, sc in 2nd ch from hook, 3sc, turn (4sc foundation results in 8sts-cord). Fasten off leaving 20cm tail for seam.

— Spiral part. Rnd 1 :

Rnd 1 :

ch1, sc blo in same st, 3sc blo; turn and continue working sc in right vertical loops in spiral fashion. Do not join the round; continue working in spiral by repeating Round 2 as shown in photo tutorial. After a few rounds the right vertical loops will appear stretched and easier to locate.

— Loop at the end of spiral cord handle (x4) :

Step :

Make loop by forming a small sewn loop at end of spiral cord, then make slip-stitch rib loop seam cover: With Yarn2, ch14 and work 9 rows of slip stitch rib, fasten off leaving 30cm/12" tail. Thread tapestry needle and position strip over loop seam, sew in place and finish as illustrated in Picture 3–5. Weave in tail.

— Handle attaching strip (x4) :

Row 1 (RS):

locate 8 middle sts of Round 69 positioned above any fish, join Yarn2 in front post of 8 middle stitches and work border row to the marked spot on the strip. Thread tapestry needle with 30cm/12" tail. Sew border row to the marked spot on the bag making stitches through 4sc-row and cord as pictured. Ensure short edges of the strip face the inner side of the bag. Begin sewing at top of strip using small invisible stitches to secure seam. Use overcast stitch to stitch short edges together. Secure seam and proceed to sew bottom of strip to handle using back stitch. Make small invisible stitches on the right side of the strip to prevent sliding off. Finally weave in the beginning tail of the strip.

— Attach handles to the bag (x4) :

Attach :

Insert handle attaching strip into the loop at the end of the handle, ensuring loop seam cover is facing inner side of the bag. Thread tapestry needle with 30cm/12" tail from the handle attaching strip. Fold strip to WS and sew each stitch at the edge of the strip securely to both loops of one of the 8 stitches from which the strip was started. Secure seam by tying off thread and weave in loose tail.

— Optional lining :

Instructions :

Length: measure finished bag from folded upper edge backing to bottom center. Add 5cm/2" for seam allowances. Width: measure bag width multiply by 2 and add 3cm/1 1/8" for seam allowance. Mark seam allowances and stitch sides together from upper edge to 5cm mark. Overcast upper edge. Press up a 3cm/1 1/8" hem and tuck under 1cm/3/8" raw edge. Insert drawstring into 2cm/3/4" slit at bottom, pull and tie ends. Tuck 2cm/3/4" of the lining under the bag's upper edge backing and baste and hand-stitch to bag's wrong side using small invisible stitches.

— Finishing and Care :

Finish :

Weave in all ends. Hand-wash in lukewarm water with mild detergent, rinse, use towel to squeeze out excess moisture and lay flat to dry.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the upper edge backing to the bag: fold the buckram-backed strip to the wrong side, overlap short edges by 2cm and baste before stitching the strip to the top of the bag to stabilize the upper edge.
  • Make spiral cord handles and secure their ends with loop seam covers, then insert the handle attaching strip into the loop at the handle end and sew the strip to the bag at the marked 8 middle sts of Round 69 using small invisible stitches.
  • Sew the handle attaching strip seam closed and secure by tying off the thread and weaving in the tails; make sure the upper edge backing stitches and handle attaching stitches use the same back loops as indicated.
  • If adding optional lining, stitch the lining sides together and overcast the upper edge, press a 3cm hem and tuck under 1cm raw edge; insert drawstring and baste the lining into the bag's upper edge backing with small invisible stitches.
  • Reinforce the upper edge by basting buckram to the wrong side of the upper edge backing and stitch the buckram edges; fold the backing in and hand-stitch the edge to the wrong side of the bag for a neat finish.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use Yarn1 (background color) for all back post stitches, hdc, last ss in each round, and fish stripes; use Yarn2 for all front post stitches, except for fish stripes.
  • 💡When switching colors, use the next color to finish the previous stitch and make the last yarn over with the new color to avoid floats and loose loops.
  • 💡Mark stitches for complex groups (such as B3i) as instructed in Rnd 26 so you can find and work them accurately during later rounds.
  • 💡Turn to the wrong side and shift the beginning of the round as directed to minimize visibility of ch-2 at the beginning of rounds when instructed.

This Corfu Bag pattern brings embossed texture and structured design together for a standout handmade tote. The pattern includes charts, photo tutorials and step-by-step finishing instructions to help you achieve a professional result. Whether you add a lining or keep it minimal, this bag will be a beautiful, practical accessory you can be proud of. 🧶✨👜

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

Approximate bag measurements: Length 41.5cm (16 3/8") from bottom center to upper edge, Width 38.8cm (15 1/4"), Loaded bag height 32cm (12 5/8"), Handles length 64cm (25 1/4").

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, but changing yarn weight will change final size and drape. Use a suitable hook for your chosen yarn and make a gauge swatch (23 sts x 15 rows = 10cm x 10cm) to match proportions.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate: familiarity with front and back post double crochet, increases and decreases, and working from charts is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters finish this project in 8-10 hours, depending on experience, whether you add lining, and finishing time for handles and backing.

Are video tutorials available for special techniques?

Yes — the pattern references multiple helpful videos for the bottom, rounds 27, 28, 30, 32, 33-34 and more. Links are provided in the pattern text for step-by-step visuals.