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Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern

Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern
4.3★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.3K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern makes Clarence, a playful peckish plant amigurumi complete with a cozy pot, vines, leaves and a chomping mouth. It uses DK weight cotton and a 3mm hook for a firm, neat finish. The project combines small parts and simple shaping to create lots of character.

Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Youll work several small pieces then join them together — petals form the neck and a wired lip and vines give poseable features. Full photos and tips are included to help with assembly.

Why You'll Love This Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it turns classic amigurumi techniques into something delightfully quirky and characterful. I enjoy the playful combination of shapes — the pot, the star-shaped petals and the big chomping mouth — it makes each Clarence unique. I love that the pattern encourages adding pipe cleaners and wires to give personality and poseability. Making multiple colorways is so satisfying; each one feels like a tiny character with a different mood.

Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to personalise Clarence — swap the main colours to create a friendlier or scarier plant, or mix bright neons for a whimsical look.

For a bigger statement piece use a bulkier yarn and a larger hook, and for a teeny keyring version use finer yarn and a 2.5mm hook.

I often change the number of petals or the shape of the leaves to create different head and neck shapes — more petals gives a fuller collar.

Add sequins, beads or small felt accessories to the pot for extra character or turn Clarence into a seasonal decoration with themed embroidery.

Try embroidering different facial expressions by varying eye placement and mouth shaping; the same pieces can look playful, grumpy or sleepy.

Use colored wire or wrap pipe cleaners with floral tape to make the vines look realistic and more durable for posing.

Stiffen the wispy hair with PVA for a permanent spiral, or leave it soft for a more natural, floppy look.

For children use yarn without small safety eyes sewn or embroidered instead, and avoid exposed wires for safety.

I sometimes stuff a small pebble bag or add weighted beads to the base of the pot if Clarence tips forward when fully posed.

Experiment with felt or fabric for the lip stabiliser to give a different mouth rigidity — thin foam feels softer while Pellon-style stabiliser is more structured.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers during rounds can cause you to lose track of the start of a round; place a marker at the start of every round to stay accurate. ✗ Stuffing too early or too much can distort shaping and make joining hard; stuff gradually and leave room where pieces will be joined. ✗ Ignoring the instructions for working in BLO/FLO can flatten or mis-shape petals and lips; follow BLO/FLO directions exactly for the intended texture. ✗ Forgetting to count stitches after increases and decreases causes uneven joins; count after each increase/decrease round to match stitch totals. ✗ Not securing pipe cleaners or wire ends can make vines unstable; double the pipe cleaners for strength and tuck or twist ends inside the pot for a tidy finish.

Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern

Make your own mischievous, pocket-sized carnivorous plant with this step-by-step amigurumi pattern. Youll crochet a pot, body, head, leaves and playful details—perfect for a unique handmade gift. The pattern includes full rounds, material lists and assembly photos so you can follow along easily.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (100% Cotton, 50g, 125m/137yds)
  • 02
    Lilac - Tea Rose (443) - 1 ball
  • 03
    Purple - Jam (473) - 1/2 ball
  • 04
    Pink - Blush Pink (454) - small amount for lips
  • 05
    Green - Spearmint Green (426) - 2 balls for body, leaves and vines
  • 06
    White - Paper White (401) - small amount for teeth
  • 07
    Light Brown - Soft Fudge (410) - 1 ball for the pot
  • 08
    Dark Brown - Coffee Bean (411) - small amount for soil

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3mm crochet hook
  • 02
    Pair of 10mm black safety eyes
  • 03
    16 long pipe cleaners or some strong wire
  • 04
    A piece of thick felt or foam fabric stabiliser (eg Pellon Flex-Foam Stabilizer)
  • 05
    Toy stuffing (polyester fibrefill)
  • 06
    Tapestry needle
  • 07
    Small amount of PVA glue or starch (optional)
  • 08
    Thick drinking straw or knitting needle (optional, for wispy hair)
  • 09
    Scissors
  • 10
    Stitch markers
  • 11
    Pins for assembly

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Tension / Gauge :

Info :

If you want to match the sample gauge make a small circle in your chosen yarn: Rnd 1: start 7sc in a magic ring [7]. Rnd 2: inc in all 7 st [14]. Rnd 3: (1sc, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [21]. Fasten off. When made in DK yarn with 3mm hook this circle is about 3cm/1in in diameter. Matching exact gauge isnt essential, but may produce a bigger or smaller plant. Remember to keep stitches close together amigurumi-style!

— Cozy Plant Pot :

Info :

Make 1 in light brown.

Round 1 :

start 7sc in a magic ring [7]

Round 2 :

inc in all 7 sts [14]

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [21]

Round 4 :

(2sc, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [28]

Round 5 :

(3sc, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [35]

Round 6 :

(4sc, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [42]

Round 7 :

(5sc, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [49]

Round 8 :

(6sc, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [56] {img 1}

Round 9 :

(7sc, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [63]

Round 10 :

(8sc, inc in next st) repeat 6 times, 9sc [69] {img 2}

Round 11 :

working in BLO, slst in all 69 sts [69] {img 3}

Round 12 :

working into the same back loops and over the slip stitches, sc in all 69 sts [69] {img 4} This creates a more defined, firmer round at the base of the pot!

Round 13 - 17 :

sc in all 69 sts - 5 rounds

Round 18 :

(22sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [72] {img 5}

Round 19 - 22 :

sc in all 72 sts - 4 rounds

Round 23 :

(23sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [75]

Round 24 - 27 :

sc in all 75 sts - 4 rounds

Round 28 :

(24sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [78]

Round 29 - 32 :

sc in all 78 sts - 4 rounds

Info :

Next round starts the lip of the pot.

Round 33 :

working in FLO, (12sc, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [84]

Round 34 - 45 :

sc in all 84 sts - 12 rounds {img 6-7}

Round 46 :

(12sc, inv dec) repeat 6 times [78]

Info :

To add more structure to the lip of the pot cut a strip of thick felt or foam fabric stabiliser and place into the lip of the pot. The strip should be half the height of the lip when measured from Rnd 33 to Rnd 46, and long enough to go all around the circumference of the top of the pot. Tip: If you dont have thick felt or stabiliser try using some corrugated card instead!

Round 47 :

working in both loops of current round and free back loops from left over from Rnd 33, slst in all 78 sts to close the lip [78] {img 12}

Info :

Fasten off, weave in the ends. {img 13 - 14}

— Inner Mouth :

Info :

Make 1 in purple. Ch13, start 2nd ch from hook, work in a round, along both sides of the chain. {img 15}

Round 1 :

3sc in next ch, 10sc, 3sc in last ch, carry on along the other side of the chain, 10sc, skip last ch [26] {img 16}

Round 2 :

(inc in next 3 st, 10sc) repeat 2 times [32] {img 17}

Round 3 :

(inc in next st, 1sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc, (inc in next st, 1sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc [38]

Round 4 :

(2sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, 10sc (2sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, 10sc [44] {img 18}

Round 5 :

(inc in next st, 3sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc, (inc in next st, 3sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc [50]

Round 6 :

(4sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, 10sc, (4sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, 10sc [56]

Round 7 :

(inc in next st, 5sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc, (inc in next st, 5sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc [62]

Round 8 :

(6sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, 10sc, (6sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, 10sc [68]

Round 9 :

(inc in next st, 7sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc, (inc in next st, 7sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc [74]

Round 10 :

(8sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, 10sc, (8sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, 10sc [80]

Round 11 :

(inc in next st, 9sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc, (inc in next st, 9sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc [86]

Round 12 - 13 :

sc in all 86 sts - 2 rounds {img 19}

Round 14 :

3slst, 33sc, 10slst, 33sc, 7slst [86]

Info :

Fasten off, weave in the end. {img 20} Note: the slip stitches will sit in the corners of the mouth when joining the pieces.

— Top of the Head :

Info :

Make 1 in lilac.

Round 1 :

start 6sc in a magic ring [6]

Round 2 :

inc in all 6 sts [12]

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]

Round 4 :

(2sc, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24]

Round 5 :

(3sc, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30]

Round 6 :

(4sc, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36]

Round 7 :

(5sc, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42]

Round 8 :

(6sc, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48]

Round 9 :

(7sc, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54]

Round 10 :

(8sc, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60]

Round 11 :

(9sc, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [66]

Round 12 :

(10sc, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [72]

— Bottom of the Head + Joining the pieces :

Info :

Make 1 in lilac.

Round 1 :

start 6sc in a magic ring [6]

Round 2 - 12 :

work the same way as Top of the Head.

Round 13 - 15 :

sc in all 72 sts - 3 rounds {img 23}

Info :

Next join in the inner mouth to the bottom of the head. Pick up the Inner mouth and place it under the bottom of the head, wrong sides together, lining up the middle of the slip stitched section with the start of next round. {img 24}

Info :

Start joining the 2 pieces in middle of the slip stitch section from Rnd 14 of the Inner Mouth, working through both layers. {img 25 - 26}

Round 16 :

work 5sc along the head + slip stitches of the mouth, 33sc along head + mouth, 5sc along the head + slip stitches, next pick up the top half of the head so it rests over the remaining half of the inner mouth, work 5sc along the head + slip stitches, 33sc along head + mouth, 5sc along the head + slip stitches [86] {img 27}

Info :

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Info :

Now the head is joined together add in some safety eyes to the top half. Use the corners of the mouth as guides and add the eyes - count 5 sts away from the corner and 5 rounds up and place the eye there, poke a hole in the fabric with a knitting needle or a pencil first to make this easier. {img 28 - 31}

— Lips :

Info :

Join pink yarn to the corner of the mouth. {img 32}

Round 1 :

work in FLO, sc in all 86 sts [86] {img 33}

Round 2 - 8 :

sc in all 86 sts - 7 rounds {img 34 -35}

Info :

Add a ring of wire or pipe cleaners, enclosing it in the tube with the next round. I like to double them up for strength. {img 36 - 38}

Round 9 :

working in FLO + remaining free back loop of the mouth - sc in all 86 sts [86]

Info :

Fasten off and weave in the ends. {img 39}

Info :

Add stuffing to the top and bottom half of the head, keeping the roof of the mouth flat. {img 39}

Info :

With the top of the head towards you, join lilac to the corner of the remaining free stitches of two halves of the head, and close the gap with a row of single crochet, working the stitches through both layers. {img 40} Tip: Alternatively sew up with a tail of yarn instead!

— Top Fangs :

Info :

Make 2 or more in white.

Round 1 :

start 6sc in a magic ring [6]

Round 2 :

sc in all 6 sts [6]

Round 3 :

(inc in next st, 2sc) repeat 2 times [8]

Round 4 :

sc in all 8 sts [8]

Round 5 :

(inc in next st, 3sc) repeat 2 times [10]

Info :

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing. {img 41}

— Bottom Fangs :

Info :

Make 2 or more in white.

Round 1 :

start 6sc in a magic ring [6]

Round 2 :

sc in all 6 sts [6]

Round 3 :

(inc in next st, 2sc) repeat 2 times [8]

Info :

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing. {img 42}

Info :

Sew the fangs to the inside seam of the lips in your preferred spot. On the sample the top fangs are sitting further apart than the bottom ones. {img 43 - 45}

Info :

Press the corners of the mouth up into a cheeky smile and move on to making the body! {img 46}

— Stem Petals :

Info :

Make 6 in green. {img 47}

Round 1 :

start 6sc in a magic ring [6]

Round 2 - 3 :

sc in all 6 sts - 2 rounds

Round 4 :

(1sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [9] {img 47}

Round 5 :

sc in all 9 sts [9]

Round 6 :

(2sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [12]

Round 7 :

sc in all 12 sts [12]

Round 8 :

(3sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [15]

Round 9 :

sc in all 15 sts [15]

Round 10 :

(4sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [18]

Round 11 :

sc in all 18 sts [18]

Round 12 :

(5sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [21]

Round 13 :

sc in all 21 sts [21]

Round 14 :

(6sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [24]

Round 15 :

sc in all 24 sts [24] {img 48}

Round 16 :

do not stuff, fold the piece flat and work next sts through both layers {img 49}, 12 sc [12]

Info :

Fasten off the first 5 petals. Do not fasten off the last petal, carry on to join them into the stem, trapping the leftover yarn tails as you work.

— Joining the Stem :

Info :

Carry on work from the 6th petal. Join all the petals together to make 1 round, make sure they are all facing right way up when joining, with the wrong side of Rnd 16 down. {img 50}

Round 1 :

(bring next petal to the work, 12sc along the top) repeat 5 times, then work 12sc along the original (6th) petal [72] {img 51 - 52}

Round 2 - 3 :

sc in all 72 sts - 2 rounds

Round 4 :

(5sc, inv dec, 5sc) repeat 6 times [66]

Round 5 - 6 :

sc in all 66 sts - 2 rounds

Round 7 :

(5sc, inv dec, 4sc) repeat 6 times [60]

Info :

Next group of rounds create a small bend in the stem. If you want the stem to point straight up instead of forward you can work Rnds 8 - 26 as single crochet rounds instead.

Round 8 :

30slst in back loops only (BLO), 30sc in both loops [60] {img 53}

Round 9 :

30slst in BLO of the slip stitches, 30sc in both loops [60] {img 54}

Round 10 :

30sc in free front loops (FLO) from both last 2 rounds 30sc, in both loops 30sc [60] {img 55} You will be putting the hook under 2 loops like you would when working a regular single crochet stitch, this will minimise the jog when creating the bend.

Round 11 :

30slst in BLO from Rnd 9 (behind the current round), 30sc in both loops [60] {img 56} These slip stitches will be hidden on the inside

Round 12 :

30slst in BLO of the slsts, 30sc in both loops [60]

Round 13 :

30sc in free stitches from Rnd 10, 30sc [60] {img 57}

Info :

Notice how the stem now tilts forward a little!

Round 14 - 17 :

sc in all 60 sts - 4 rounds

Info :

Now lets add another bend. {img 58 - 59}

Round 18 :

2sc, 26slst in BLO, 32sc in both loops [60]

Round 19 :

2sc, 26slst in BLO of the slsts, 32sc in both loops [60]

Round 20 :

2sc, 26sc in free FLO from last 2 rounds, then work in both loops: 2sc, inv dec, 12sc, inv dec, 12sc, inv dec [57]

Round 21 :

29sc, inv dec, 11sc, inv dec, 11sc, inv dec [54]

Round 22 - 26 :

sc in all 54 sts - 5 rounds

Round 27 :

slst in all 54 sts [54]

Info :

Fasten off and weave in the ends. {img 60 - 61}

— Soil :

Info :

Join dark brown to any slip stitch from Rnd 27 of the stem. {img 62}

Round 1 :

sc in all 54 sts [54]

Round 2 :

(8sc, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60]

Round 3 :

(9sc, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [66]

Round 4 :

(5sc, inc in next st, 5sc) repeat 6 times [72]

Round 5 :

(inc in next st, 1sc) repeat 6 times [78] {img 63}

Info :

Next round joins the soil to the pot. Fold back the brim of the pot so that the slip stitch round is easy to get to. Work the next round through both loops of the soil and Rnd 47 (the slip stitch round) of the pot, pulling the yarn from below the pots slip stitches. {img 64 - 65}

Round 6 :

slst in all 78 sts [78]

Info :

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

— Twirly Vines :

Info :

Make 3 in green. {img 66 - 67, img 75}

Round 1 :

start 5sc in a magic ring [5]

Round 2 - 6 :

sc in all 5 sts - 5 rounds

Round 7 :

inc in next st, 4sc [6]

Round 8 - 12 :

sc in all 6 sts - 5 rounds

Round 13 :

inc in next st, 5sc [7]

Round 14 - 18 :

sc in all 7 sts - 5 rounds

Round 19 :

inc in next st, 6sc [8]

Round 20 - 24 :

sc in all 8 sts - 5 rounds

Round 25 :

inc in next st, 7sc [9]

Round 26 - 30 :

sc in all 9 sts - 5 rounds

Round 31 :

inc in next st, 8sc [10]

Round 32 - 36 :

sc in all 10 sts - 5 rounds

Round 37 :

inc in next st, 9sc [11]

Round 38 - 42 :

sc in all 11 sts - 5 rounds

Round 43 :

inc in next st, 10sc [12]

Round 44 - 55 :

sc in all 12 sts - 12 rounds

Info :

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing.

— Grippy Leaves :

Info :

Make 2 in green.

Round 1 :

start 6sc in a magic ring [6]

Round 2 :

sc in all 6 sts [6]

Round 3 :

(1sc, 3sc in next st, 1sc) repeat 2 times [10]

Round 4 :

sc in all 10 sts [10]

Round 5 :

(2sc, 3sc in next st, 2sc) repeat 2 times [14]

Round 6 :

sc in all 14 sts [14]

Round 7 :

(3sc, 3sc in next st, 3sc) repeat 2 times [18] {img 68}

Round 8 :

sc in all 18 sts [18]

Round 9 :

(4sc, 3sc in next st, 4sc) repeat 2 times [22]

Round 10 :

sc in all 22 sts [22]

Round 11 :

(5sc, 3sc in next st, 5sc) repeat 2 times [26]

Round 12 :

sc in all 26 sts [26]

Round 13 :

(6sc, 3sc in next st, 6sc) repeat 2 times [30]

Round 14 :

sc in all 30 sts [30]

Round 15 :

(7sc, 3sc in next st, 7sc) repeat 2 times [34]

Round 16 :

sc in all 34 sts [34] {img 69}

Round 17 :

(8sc, inc in next st, 8sc) repeat 2 times [36]

Round 18 - 20 :

sc in all 36 sts - 3 rounds

Round 21 :

(inv dec, 4sc) repeat 6 times [30]

Round 22 :

(3sc, inv dec) repeat 6 times [24]

Round 23 :

(inv dec, 2sc) repeat 6 times [18]

Round 24 :

(1sc, inv dec) repeat 6 times [12] {img 70}

Round 25 :

sc in all 12 sts [12]

Round 26 :

inv dec, 10sc [11]

Round 27 :

inv dec, 9sc [10]

Round 28 - 32 :

sc in all 10 sts - 5 rounds

Round 33 :

inc in next st, 9sc [11]

Round 34 - 38 :

sc in all 11 sts - 5 rounds

Round 39 :

inc in next st, 10sc [12]

Round 40 :

sc in all 12 sts [12] {img 71}

Info :

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing. Press leaves flat. {img 72}

Info :

Add wire or pipe cleaners to the leaves and vines, doubling them up for strength. {img 73 - 75}

— Protective Spikes :

Info :

Make as many as you fancy in purple yarn.

Info :

Ch4, start 2nd ch from hook.

Row 1 :

1slst, 1sc, 1hdc [3]

Info :

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing. {img 76}

— Wispy Hair :

Info :

Make as many as you fancy in purple yarn.

Row 1 :

Ch25 [25]

Info :

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing. Wrap the wispy hair around a thick straw or a knitting needle, cover in PVA glue or starch and leave to dry overnight. When completely dry take the hair off the straw and trim one of the tail ends. {img 77 - 80}

— Stingy Tongue :

Info :

Make 1 in purple yarn.

Info :

Ch26, start 2nd ch from hook, for neater edges work in third loop/back hump of the chains.

Row 1 :

1slst in next ch, 2sc, 2hdc, ch6, start 2nd ch from hook, slst in next ch, 2sc, 2hdc, now carry on along the main chain, 21dc [21+forked tip] {img 81 - 85}

Info :

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing.

— Assembly :

Info :

First we will add stuffing to the plant pot. To keep the base flat it helps to add in a circle of felt or thick card into the base before adding the stuffing.

Info :

Clarence is quite top-heavy, but I found that sewing the vines to the back of the pot is enough to counter-balance the head when making the sample. However you could add in a balloon weight or weighted beads for extra stability.

Item Name (P1) :

Cut a circle of felt, foam or card to fit the base of the pot. {img 86}

Item Name (P1) :

Place into the pot and then add in plenty of toy stuffing. {img 87}

Item Name (P1) :

Sew the Grippy Leaves to the sides of the body, either side of the bend - push the ends of the pipe cleaners into the body before sewing. {img 88}

Item Name (P1) :

Next secure the Twirly Vines to the soil behind the body, pushing the ends of the pipe cleaners into the soil. {img 89}

Item Name (P1) :

Spread the vines evenly around the back of the plant, you can twist together the leftover parts of the pipe cleaners inside the pot. {img 90}

Item Name (P1) :

Sew down each vine, then curl up the ends. {img 91}

Item Name (P1) :

Add stuffing to the body, leaving some space on the top for the head. {img 92}

Item Name (P1) :

Place the head into the neck opening, choosing the direction you would like it to look in. {img 93}

Item Name (P1) :

With a tail of lilac yarn sew the head into the neck, first going through each stitch of the back seam and the 3 back petals. {img 94}

Item Name (P1) :

Then go around the lower half of the head, stitching where the chin sits on the petals. {img 95}

Item Name (P1) :

Turn up the corners of the mouth into a cheeky smile. {img 96 - 97}

Item Name (P1) :

Sew the Protective Spikes randomly over the body - add as many as you like! {img 98 - 105}

Item Name (P1) :

Embroider some spots in purple yarn on the top of the head. Using purple yarn embroider some veins onto the leaves, going through both layers of the fabric, then doubling. First the central line, then work back to the start adding smaller side veins as you go so the leaf will look the same on both sides. {img 98 - 101}

Item Name (P1) :

Open the mouth again and sew the tongue to the inside of the mouth, letting it flop to the side. {img 102}

Item Name (P1) :

Next sew the Wispy Hair to the top of the head, in-between the spots. Arrange them as you like best! On the sample they are sewn evenly across the top. {img 103 - 104}

Item Name (P1) :

To help the back petals stand up catch each one with a tail of green yarn, securing it to the head. And thats it - your very own Clarence The Peckish Plant is good to go! {img 105}

Assembly Instructions

  • Cut a circle of felt, foam or thick card to fit the base of the pot and insert it before adding stuffing to keep the base flat.
  • Place the grippy leaves onto the sides of the body and sew them in place, tucking or pushing pipe cleaner ends into the body for stability.
  • Secure the twirly vines into the soil and sew each vine to the back of the plant, twisting leftover pipe cleaner ends inside the pot for strength.
  • Sew the head into the neck opening by first attaching the back seam to the three back petals, then stitch around the lower half so the chin sits on the petals securely.
  • Add the fangs, tongue and wispy hair last: sew fangs to the inside seam, sew the tongue to the inner mouth, and attach wispy hair to the top of the head.
  • Embroider spots on the head and veins on the leaves, then press leaves flat and add any final wire supports to leaves and vines for poseability.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to mark the beginning of each round so you do not lose track while working in continuous rounds.
  • 💡Stuff pieces gradually and evenly to avoid lumps and to achieve the intended shape — leave space for sewing where parts will be joined.
  • 💡When working BLO or FLO follow the instructions exactly to create the intended texture and bends in petals and lips.
  • 💡Double pipe cleaners or use strong wire inside leaves and vines for extra strength and poseability, tucking ends into the pot for a neat finish.

This playful Clarence pattern mixes classic amigurumi shaping with fun, poseable details to create a character youll love. Whether youre gifting Clarence or keeping him on your shelf, hes sure to get noticed. Grab your DK cotton and lets make some deliciously cheeky plants! 🧶🌿

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished Clarence measures approximately 27cm / 10½in tall when made in DK weight cotton with a 3mm hook.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will affect the final size and may require a larger or smaller hook; adjust stuffing and wire supports accordingly.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of crochet stitches (sc, inc, dec, BLO/FLO) and experience with joining pieces is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though time may vary based on experience level, how many extra details you add, and assembly time.