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Badger Puffy Amigurumi Pattern

Badger Puffy Amigurumi Pattern
4.8β˜… Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
2.4K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Badger Puffy Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a cuddly Badger Puffy amigurumi with a striped scarf, house crest and a tiny trophy cup. It uses jacquard color-changing and fluffy yarn techniques to achieve the badger's signature cheeks and tummy. The instructions include detailed rounds, photo references and finishing tips for a polished, poseable toy.

Badger Puffy Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Intermediate-level techniques such as jacquard color changes and attachment with cotter pin are included. Bonus mini accessories (cup and house crest) are covered as separate details.

Why You'll Love This Badger Puffy Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines playful details with thoughtful construction techniques that bring the badger to life. I enjoyed designing the jacquard color changes to make the stripes and fluffy cheeks pop while keeping the instructions approachable. The assembly method using a cotter pin for a movable head was a highlight for me β€” it adds personality and durability. Making the tiny cup and house crest felt like adding the final magic touches that make this amigurumi special.

Badger Puffy Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Badger Puffy Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Badger Puffy Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Badger Puffy Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easily you can customize this badger by changing color choices β€” try soft pastels for a nursery-friendly pal or bold house colors for a themed mascot.

To make a larger version, use a thicker yarn and a larger hook; for a tiny keychain, choose finer yarn and a smaller hook while keeping the same stitch counts.

I often replace the fluffy Yarn B with a non-furry substitute for a sleeker finish that is easier to sew and embroider.

Add wire armature inside the limbs if you want poseable arms and legs β€” thin floral wire works well and can be covered with yarn wrapping.

Customize facial expression by adjusting the position of the safety eyes and the curve of the embroidered mouth or eyebrow lines to create different personalities.

For different textures, try combining yarns in the jacquard sections like a cotton with a sport-weight acrylic to change drape and stitch definition.

I also like adding tiny accessories β€” a miniature scarf, a stitched crest, or small felt accents make each badger unique and gift-ready.

Try embroidering initials or small motifs on the house crest using the water-soluble canvas technique for precise designs.

If you want a sturdier base, add a small flat weight (like a coin or washer) under the disk in the body before final stitching to help the badger sit upright.

Experiment with eye sizes and nose shapes: slightly larger safety eyes give a cuter, more stylized look while a more realistic nose changes the character instantly.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers during color changes causes misaligned jacquard panels; place a marker at the start of every round and mark color-change points carefully. βœ— Not stuffing gradually results in lumps or a collapsed shape; stuff in small amounts as you go and shape the piece evenly before closing. βœ— Using too large a hook with fluffy yarn makes holes and visible stuffing; if using YarnArt Mink switch to a smaller hook or replace with yarn A for beginners. βœ— Cutting threads too early when working jacquard will tangle ends and complicate finishing; leave both yarns attached and carry or secure ends until the section is completed. βœ— Forgetting to attach the cotter pin and shim correctly can make the head unstable; insert the shim and cotter pin between the recommended rounds and secure with the disk and pliers as shown. βœ— Not combing and trimming fluffy yarn properly leads to uneven fur; comb gently with a rug brush and trim carefully in small amounts to preserve texture.

Badger Puffy Amigurumi Pattern

Make a charming Badger Puffy amigurumi complete with a striped scarf, house crest and tiny cup. This pattern walks you through shaping, jacquard color changes and fluffy yarn techniques so your badger looks plush and full of character. Clear step-by-step rounds, photo references and assembly instructions help you bring this little mascot to life. Perfect for gifting or displaying in a magical-themed collection.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Badger Puffy Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Yarn A: YarnArt Jeans 160 m/50 gr, Color 62, Sport (12 wpi) - quantity as needed for head and white details
  • 02
    Yarn B: YarnArt Mink 75 m/50 gr, Color 345, Bulky (7 wpi) - for fluffy cheeks and tummy
  • 03
    Yarn C: YarnArt Jeans 160 m/50 gr, Color 53 (black), Sport (12 wpi) - for black markings and spots
  • 04
    Yarn D: YarnArt Jeans 160 m/50 gr, Color 46 (grey), Sport (12 wpi) - main body and limbs
  • 05
    Yarn E: YarnArt Jeans 160 m/50 gr, Color 84 (yellow), Sport (12 wpi) - house crest and scarf accents
  • 06
    Golden metalized threads mouline - small amount for cup detail
  • 07
    White mouline threads - for eye embroidery and claw details

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 1.75 mm (for crocheting badger)
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 1.5 mm (for crocheting cup and spots on the legs)
  • 03
    10 mm safety eyes (2 pieces)
  • 04
    Black plastic nose 10.5 mm diameter
  • 05
    Rug brush (for combing)
  • 06
    Pin or stitch marker
  • 07
    Synthepus for filling (polyester stuffing)
  • 08
    Yarn needle (thick needle with blunt end)
  • 09
    Scissors
  • 10
    Needles for cutting - with a bead on the end (for fixing parts before sewing)
  • 11
    Needle (sewing needle)
  • 12
    Round-nosed pliers
  • 13
    Cotter pin T-shaped 25 x 2.0 mm
  • 14
    Shim 3 x 20 mm
  • 15
    Disk, diameter 20 mm
  • 16
    Super Glue 'Moment' (for cup assembly)
  • 17
    Floral wire diameter 0.95 mm (approx. 10 cm) for cup handle

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” Head :

Round 1 :

Yarn A 1: 6 loops, turning, 5sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 5sc (from the back of the chain) (10l)

Round 2 :

2: [4sc, inc]x2 (12l)

Round 3-5 :

3-5: 12sc (12l)

Info :

Next, you need to crochet the head of yarn A and yarn B at once alternately change the thread, but not cutting it to get fluffy cheeks. This technique is called jacquard.

Info :

Color changing technique: when crocheting the last Yarn A sc, insert the hook into the loop, pull out the thread, crochet this sc to the end with Yarn B thread (see photo 1). Then the Yarn A thread is thrown forward, and the Yarn B working thread goes backwards (see photos 2, 3). To change the thread back: when crocheting the last Yarn B sc, insert the hook into the loop, pull out the thread, crochet this sc to the end with the Yarn A thread (see photo 4). It's more convenience to move on only Yarn A, leave Yarn B where it ends and grab again when it necessary (see photo 5, 6).

Round 6 :

6: inc (Yarn A); inc (Yarn B); [inc]x3 (Yarn A); inc (Yarn B), 6sc (Yarn A) (18l)

Round 7 :

7: 2sc (Yarn A); 2sc (Yarn B); 6sc (Yarn A); 2sc (Yarn B), 6sc (Yarn A) (18l)

Round 8 :

8: sc, inc (Yarn A); sc, inc (Yarn B); [sc, inc]x3 (Yarn A); sc, inc (Yarn B), 6sc (Yarn A) (24l)

Round 9 :

9: 3sc (Yarn A); 3sc (Yarn B); 9sc (Yarn A); 3sc (Yarn B), 6sc (Yarn A) (24l)

Round 10 :

10: 2sc, inc (Yarn A); 2sc, inc (Yarn B); [2sc, inc]x3 (Yarn A); 2sc, inc (Yarn B), 6sc (Yarn A) (30l)

Round 11 :

11: 4sc (Yarn A); 4sc (Yarn B); 12sc (Yarn A); 4sc (Yarn B), 6sc (Yarn A) (30l)

Round 12 :

12: 3sc, inc (Yarn A); 3sc, inc (Yarn B); [3sc, inc]x3 (Yarn A); 3sc, inc (Yarn B), 6sc (Yarn A) (36l)

Round 13 :

13: 5sc (Yarn A); 5sc (Yarn B); 15sc (Yarn A); 5sc (Yarn B), 6sc (Yarn A) (36l)

Round 14 :

14: 4sc, inc (Yarn A); 4sc, inc (Yarn B); [4sc, inc]x3 (Yarn A); 4sc, inc (Yarn B), 6sc (Yarn A) (42l)

Round 15 :

15: 5sc, inc (Yarn A); 5sc, inc (Yarn B); [5sc, inc]x3 (Yarn A); 5sc, inc (Yarn B), 6sc (Yarn A) (48l)

Round 16 :

16: 6sc, inc (Yarn A); 6sc, inc (Yarn B); [6sc, inc]x3 (Yarn A); 6sc, inc (Yarn B), 6sc (Yarn A) (54l)

Round 17-19 :

17-19: 8sc (Yarn A); 8sc (Yarn B); 24sc (Yarn A); 8sc (Yarn B), 6sc (Yarn A) (54l)

Round 20 :

20: 6sc, dec (Yarn A); 6sc, dec (Yarn B); [6sc, dec]x3 (Yarn A); 6sc, dec (Yarn B), 6sc (Yarn A) (48l)

Info :

Comb the cheeks with the rug brush (see photos 7-9).

Info :

Make x-shaped incisions and insert eyes there. Place safety eyes between the rounds 9 and 10 of the head (the distance between them is approx. 10 stitches). Sew black felt to the face with black threads.

Info :

Using yarn needle do around the eye 'loose stitch' of white mouline threads. Separate one thread and fasten with a needle 'loose stitch'. Press the eye to the embroidered line and fasten it.

Info :

Next cut the yarn B and continue crocheting with yarn A only!

Round 21 :

21: [6sc, dec]x6 (42l)

Round 22 :

22: [5sc, dec]x6 (36l)

Info :

Start stuffing the head with synthepus and continue crocheting.

Round 23 :

23: [4sc, dec]x6 (30l)

Info :

Insert cotter pin into shim. Place cotter pin with shim between the rounds 20 and 21 at the bottom of the head.

Round 24 :

24: [3sc, dec]x6 (24l)

Round 25 :

25: [2sc, dec]x6 (18l)

Round 26 :

26: [sc, dec]x6 (12l)

Info :

Completely fill the head. Tip: Cut out a circle of white felt, a little larger than the resulting hole. Insert it into the hole so the synthepus does not cling to the hook during closing the detail.

Round 27 :

27: [dec]x6 (6l)

Info :

Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure.

β€” Ears :

Round 1 :

Yarn C 1: 2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)

Round 2 :

2: [inc]x6 (12l)

Round 3 :

3: [sc, inc]x6 (18l)

Info :

Change the thread to Yarn A. To get a beautiful line when changing color in the next round crochet the sc in this way - half of the sc with black thread, and the other half with white (Yarn C + Yarn A).

Round 4 :

4: 18sc (Yarn C + Yarn A) (18l)

Info :

Next crochet with Yarn A only, cut the Yarn C leaving a long end for sewing! Remove the pin marking the beginning of the round. Fold the resulting 18 loops in half and in the next round, crochet both halves together.

Round 5 :

5: 1 loop, turning, 9 sl st (9l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread. Sew the ears to the head, pre-fixing them with needles for cutting to achieve perfect symmetry.

β€” Body :

Round 1 :

Yarn D 1: 2 loops, 8sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (8l)

Round 2 :

2: [inc]x8 (16l)

Round 3 :

3: [3sc, inc]x4 (20l) Change the thread to Yarn C.

Info :

To get a beautiful line when changing color in the next round crochet part of the sc in this way - half of the sc with grey thread, and the other half with black (Yarn D + Yarn C).

Round 4 :

4: 4sc, inc, 2sc (Yarn D + Yarn C), 2sc, inc, [4sc, inc]x2 (Yarn D) (24l)

Info :

Next, you need to crochet the body of yarn D and yarn C at once, alternately change the thread, but not cutting it (jacquard technique). Color changing technique is the same as for the head. It is more convenient to crochet with the jacquard only the front of the body, and the back should only be crocheted from yarn D.

Info :

At the end of the row, when crocheting the last grey sc, insert the hook into the loop, pull out the thread, crochet this sc to the end with a black thread grabbing it in the place where it remained. A 'loose stitch' is formed on the wrong side. You need to move it forward along with the grey thread so when crocheting jacquard it will be inside and the wrong side will become neat.

Round 5 :

5: only through back loops 8sc (Yarn C), 16sc (Yarn D) (24l)

Round 6 :

6: [3sc, inc]x2 (Yarn C); [3sc, inc]x4 (Yarn D) (30l)

Info :

Insert cotter pin in middle of body. Put the disk on cotter pin and wrap the ends in the 'rings' with the help of round-nosed pliers.

Round 7 :

7: [4sc, inc]x2 (Yarn C); [4sc, inc]x4 (Yarn D) (36l)

Round 8 :

8: 12sc (Yarn C), 24sc (Yarn D) (36l)

Round 9 :

9: [5sc, inc]x2 (Yarn C); [5sc, inc]x4 (Yarn D) (42l)

Round 10 :

10: 14sc (Yarn C), 28sc (Yarn D) (42l)

Round 11 :

11: [6sc, inc]x2 (Yarn C); [6sc, inc]x4 (Yarn D) (48l)

Round 12-15 :

12-15: 16sc (Yarn C), 32sc (Yarn D) (48l)

Info :

Change the thread to Yarn B to get fluffy tummy. Cut the Yarn C.

Round 16 :

16: 16sc (Yarn B), 32sc (Yarn D) (48l)

Round 17 :

17: 6sc, [dec]x2, 6sc (Yarn B); [6sc, dec]x4 (Yarn D) (42l)

Round 18 :

18: 5sc, [dec]x2, 5sc (Yarn B); [5sc, dec]x4 (Yarn D) (36l)

Round 19 :

19: 4sc, [dec]x2, 4sc (Yarn B); [4sc, dec]x4 (Yarn D) (30l)

Info :

Start stuffing the body with synthepus.

Round 20 :

20: 3sc, [dec]x2, 3sc (Yarn B); [3sc, dec]x4 (Yarn D) (24l)

Info :

Next cut the yarn B and continue crocheting with yarn D only!

Round 21 :

21: [2sc, dec]x6 (18l)

Round 22 :

22: [sc, dec]x6 (12l)

Info :

Completely fill the body. Tip: Cut out a circle of white felt a little larger than the hole and insert it into the hole so the synthepus does not cling while closing.

Round 23 :

23: [dec]x6 (6l)

Info :

Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure. Embroider the line with Yarn B and fix it with white thread to hide the 'stage'. Comb the tummy with the rug brush.

β€” Hands, 2 pcs :

Round 1 :

Yarn D 1: 2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)

Round 2 :

2: [2sc, inc]x2 (8l)

Round 3 :

3: [3sc, inc]x2 (10l)

Round 4-5 :

4-5: 10sc (10l)

Info :

Change the thread to Yarn C. To get a beautiful line when changing color crochet half of the sc with grey thread and the other half with black (Yarn D + Yarn C).

Round 6 :

6: 10sc (Yarn D + Yarn C) (10l)

Info :

Next crochet with Yarn C only, cut the Yarn D. Start stuffing the hand with synthepus.

Round 7-8 :

7-8: 3sc, 5 sl st, 2sc (10l)

Round 9 :

9: sc, dec, sc, [inc]x3, sc, dec (11l)

Round 10 :

10: dec, 9sc (10l)

Round 11 :

11: dec, 8sc (9l)

Round 12 :

12: 2 sl st, 2sc, dec, 2sc, sl st (8l)

Round 13 :

13: 2 sl st, 5sc, sl st (8l)

Round 14 :

14: [inc]x2, sc, [dec]x2, sc (8l)

Info :

Completely fill the hand.

Round 15 :

15: 4sc, [dec]x2 (6l)

Info :

Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure. Divide white thread floss in half and embroider the claws.

β€” Legs, 2 pcs :

Round 1 :

Yarn D 1: 2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)

Round 2 :

2: [2sc, inc]x2 (8l)

Round 3 :

3: [sc, inc]x4 (12l)

Round 4 :

4: [5sc, inc]x2 (14l)

Round 5-6 :

5-6: 14sc (14l)

Round 7 :

7: [dec]x2, 10sc (12l)

Info :

Change the thread to Yarn C to get a line between colors; crochet half of sc with grey thread and the other half with black.

Round 8 :

8: 12sc (Yarn D + Yarn C) (12l)

Info :

Next crochet with Yarn C only, cut the Yarn D. Start stuffing the leg with synthepus.

Round 9 :

9: dec, 8sc, dec (10l)

Round 10-11 :

10-11: 10sc (10l)

Round 12 :

12: 3sc, 5 sl st, 2sc (10l)

Round 13 :

13: sc, dec, sc, [inc]x3, sc, dec (11l)

Round 14 :

14: 4sc, [inc]x3, 4sc (14l)

Round 15 :

15: 6sc, [inc]x2, 6sc (16l)

Round 16 :

16: 16sc (16l)

Round 17 :

17: [dec]x8 (8l)

Info :

Completely fill the leg.

Round 18 :

18: [2sc, dec]x2 (6l)

Info :

Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure (see photo 58).

β€” Spot (White threads floss) :

Info :

Crochet spot with 1,5 mm hook.

Round 1 :

1: 4 loops, turning, 3sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 3sc (from the back of the chain) (6l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a very long end for sewing. Sew the spot to the foot. Don't cut the thread but move upward diagonally. Make 4 French knots. Divide the floss in half and embroider the claws.

β€” Tail :

Round 1 :

Yarn D 1: 2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)

Info :

Next, you need to crochet the tail of yarn D and yarn B at once, alternately change the thread, but not cutting it (jacquard technique). Color changing technique is the same as for the head.

Round 2 :

2: 3sc (Yarn B), 3sc (Yarn D) (6l)

Round 3 :

3: 2sc, inc (Yarn B), 2sc, inc (Yarn D) (8l)

Round 4 :

4: [sc, inc]x2 (Yarn B), [sc, inc]x2 (Yarn D) (12l)

Round 5-8 :

5-8: 6sc (Yarn B), 6sc (Yarn D) (12l)

Info :

Start stuffing the tail with synthepus.

Round 9 :

9: [sc, dec]x2 (Yarn B), [sc, dec]x2 (Yarn D) (8l)

Info :

Completely fill the tail.

Round 10 :

10: 2sc, dec (Yarn B), 2sc, dec (Yarn D) (6l)

Info :

Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure. Comb the tail with the rug brush.

β€” Assemblage :

Info :

Sew your crocheted hands and legs to the body with a threaded bracing (use round-nosed pliers to make it easier to pull the needle).

Step 1 :

Attach the limbs using needles for cutting (hands between 7 and 8 rounds of body, distance between legs approx. 18 stitches, legs between 15 and 16 rounds of body, distance between legs approx. 22 stitches). Check that the badger sits steadily. Detach the hands and legs without removing the needles from them, and insert other needles for cutting in their place.

Step 2 :

Insert the needle through the back into the hand attachment point (leaving the loose end of the thread outside).

Step 3 :

Thread the needle through two loops on the inner surface of the hand (the needle for cutting must be in the middle).

Step 4 :

Insert the needle into the body at the hand attachment point and pull out it at the point of attachment of the second hand.

Step 5 :

Pass the needle through the second hand in the same way. Sew the body and the hands two more times in the same way for strength.

Step 6 :

Insert the needle at the hand attachment point and pull out it at the point of attachment of the opposite leg. Thread the needle through the leg. Insert the needle into the body at the leg attachment point and pull out it at the point of attachment of the second leg. Pass the needle through the second leg. Sew the body and the legs two more times in the same way for strength.

Step 7 :

Insert the needle into the body at the leg attachment point and pull out it the back in the place where it was introduced at the very beginning. Tie a few knots. Sew the tail to the body.

β€” Bonus Cup :

Info :

Crochet the cup with 1,5 mm hook using golden metalized threads mouline. The cup is crocheted from two details.

Detail 1 - Round 1 :

1: 2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)

Detail 1 - Round 2 :

2: [2sc, inc]x2 (8l)

Detail 1 - Round 3 :

3: [3sc, inc]x2 (10l)

Detail 1 - Round 4 :

4: only through back loops [4sc, inc]x2 (12l)

Detail 1 - Round 5 :

5: [2sc, inc]x4 (16l)

Detail 1 - Round 6 :

6: [3sc, inc]x4 (20l)

Detail 1 - Round 7-10 :

7-10: 20sc (20l)

Detail 1 - Round 11 :

11: 10 sl st, 8 loops, sl st in the stitch 4 rounds down, 1 loop, turning, 7 sl st, sl st in the same loop (in which the last sl st was crocheted before the chain); 10 sl st 8 loops, sl st in the stitch 4 rounds down, 1 loop, turning, 7 sl st, sl st in the same loop (in which the last sl st was crocheted before the chain). Cut and fix the thread leaving a long end.

Detail 2 - Round 1 :

Detail 2 1: 2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)

Detail 2 - Round 2 :

2: [inc]x6 (12l)

Info :

Cut off a piece of wire approx. 10 cm long and fold it in half. Insert the wire into the cup. Cut and fix the thread leaving a long end. Insert the wire into detail 2, bend the ends and cut off excess wire. Wrap the wire with thread using glue and spiral wrapping until all wire is wrapped to the end.

β€” House Crest :

Info :

Crochet the house crest with 1,75 mm hook along rows. Use video help to crochet rows 10, 21, 22 and 37 if necessary.

Yarn E - Round 1 :

Yarn E 1: 10 loops, turning, 9sc (9l)

Round 2 :

2: 1 loop, turning, 9sc (9l)

Round 3 :

3: 1 loop, turning, 8sc, inc (10l)

Round 4 :

4: 1 loop, turning, 10sc (10l)

Round 5 :

5: 1 loop, turning, 9sc, inc (11l)

Round 6 :

6: 1 loop, turning, 11sc (11l)

Round 7 :

7: 1 loop, turning, 10sc, inc (12l)

Round 8-9 :

8-9: 1 loop, turning, 12sc (12l) Change the thread to Yarn C.

Round 10 :

10: 1 loop, turning, 12sc (Yarn E + Yarn C) (12l)

Info :

Next crochet with Yarn C only, but don't cut Yarn E. Yarn C 11-14: 1 loop, turning, 12sc (12l)

Round 15 :

15: 1 loop, turning, 10sc, dec (11l)

Round 16 :

16: 1 loop, turning, 11sc (11l)

Round 17 :

17: 1 loop, turning, 9sc, dec (10l)

Round 18 :

18: 1 loop, turning, 10sc (10l)

Round 19 :

19: 1 loop, turning, 8sc, dec (9l)

Round 20 :

20: 1 loop, turning, 9 sl st (9l)

Info :

Take another end of the yarn E ball and change the thread direction. Crochet part of the sc as half with black thread and half with yellow (Yarn C + Yarn E) and then vice versa to create color transitions.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the limbs using needles for cutting: position hands between rounds 7 and 8 of the body and legs between rounds 15 and 16; space legs approx. 22 stitches and hands distance between legs approx. 18 stitches, check the badger sits steadily before sewing.
  • Insert the cotter pin and shim between rounds 20 and 21 at the bottom of the head, then place the disk on the cotter pin and wrap the ends into rings using round-nosed pliers to secure the head for rotation.
  • Sew hands by inserting the needle through the back into the hand attachment point, thread through two loops on the inner surface of the hand, insert the needle into the body at the corresponding point and pass through the second hand; repeat sewing two more times for strength.
  • Sew legs in the same threaded way: insert the needle at the hand attachment point and pull it out at the opposite leg, thread through the leg, insert into body at the second leg attachment point and pass through the second leg, repeating sewing two more times for strength.
  • Use needles for cutting to pre-fix limbs while checking placement and symmetry; detach limbs without removing the needles then switch to bracing needles for final sewing to ensure secure attachment.
  • Sew the tail to the body after finishing stuffing and closing its opening, checking position and aligning with the body seam for a natural look.
  • After all limbs are sewn, tie a few secure knots inside the body, trim ends and hide threads; final combing and trimming of the fluffy yarn will finish the model.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Mark the first single crochet of each round with a pin or marker to keep track of your rounds and count loops after each round.
  • πŸ’‘Work with consistent tension and use a smaller hook if stuffing shows through the stitches or to achieve a neater fabric.
  • πŸ’‘Comb and trim parts made with fluffy yarn gently using a rug brush and scissors; you can comb and trim parts several times but be careful not to damage crocheted fabric.
  • πŸ’‘Use the felt circle inside closures to prevent synthepus from clinging to the hook when closing the pieces.

This Badger Puffy pattern brings a touch of whimsy and a lot of heart to your crochet projects. Make a delightful mascot complete with a scarf, crest and tiny trophy to celebrate your handiwork. Perfect as a thoughtful gift or a magical display piece β€” happy crocheting and enjoy every fluffy moment! 🧢✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished toy measures approximately 11 cm high in sitting position and 13 cm in standing position using the recommended yarns and hooks.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, but changing yarn weight will affect the final size and texture; adjust your hook accordingly and consider using smaller hooks to keep stuffing from showing.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and uses jacquard color changes and fluffy yarn handling, so familiarity with single crochet, increases and decreases is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in about 8-10 hours, though time may vary depending on experience and detail work for the accessories.

How do I make the head movable?

Insert a cotter pin with a shim between rounds 20 and 21 of the head, place the disk on the cotter pin and wrap the ends into rings with round-nosed pliers to secure a rotatable head.