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Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern
4.5★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.6K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a small ankylosaurus toy named Bruno with a textured shell, spikes and a movable tail. It uses sport-weight yarns and very small hooks for tight amigurumi stitches. The design includes detailed shaping, sewn-on plates and optional wire in the tail for posability. Photographs and step-by-step rounds are included to help with finishing and assembly.

Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

You will learn how to crochet separate parts (head, body, legs, tail, plates and spikes) and join them securely. The pattern includes tips for inserting a cotter pin to make the head turn and placing plates in a checkerboard pattern.

Why You'll Love This Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because Bruno has so much personality packed into a small size. I enjoy designing textured shells and tiny details like plates and spikes that really bring the character to life. The construction teaches useful amigurumi techniques like joining parts, using a cotter pin for movement and working in very small stitches. Making Bruno is satisfying because every little piece contributes to a characterful finished toy I am proud to display.

Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how you can customize Bruno by changing the yarn colors; try softer pastels for a nursery-friendly pal or high-contrast browns for a realistic look.

To make Bruno larger, choose a bulkier yarn and increase your hook size; for a tiny keychain version, pick a finer yarn and tiny hook to scale him down.

I often add embroidery details like freckles or a stitched smile to change his expression and make each amigurumi unique.

Swap the placements and sizes of the plates for a different shell pattern — arranging more big plates or more small plates creates a very different texture.

For extra play value, add a wire into the tail for posability, or omit the wire and overstuff the tail for a sturdier, baby-safe toy.

I sometimes replace the safety eyes with embroidered eyes for a fully handmade and child-safe finish; this also changes the toy's personality.

Try different yarn fibers — cotton gives a neat finish while acrylic is more durable and washes easily; always match hook size to your yarn choice.

Make a set of dinosaurs by varying colors and minor details like cheek color, plate arrangement, or spike sizes; they look great displayed together.

If you want a weighted bottom, add a small disk or coins inside a secured pouch before closing the body to help Bruno sit upright.

I recommend practicing the small spikes and plates on scrap yarn first; once you're comfortable, you can speed through the production and assembly much faster.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers when working perimeter rounds makes it easy to lose the start of the round; place a marker at the first stitch of each round to maintain accurate counting. ✗ Not stuffing gradually leads to lumps and poor shaping; stuff small amounts at a time and shape as you go to keep a smooth silhouette. ✗ Using the wrong hook size changes the finished size and stitch tension; use the recommended small hooks for dense stitches and choose a smaller hook when stuffing shows through. ✗ Forgetting to leave long tails for sewing makes final assembly difficult; always cut and leave a long end when instructed so you can sew pieces securely in place.

Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

Make your own chubby Ankylosaurus Bruno with this detailed amigurumi pattern. You'll crochet a cute tank-like dinosaur with spikes, plates and a movable tail using small hooks and assembly hardware. Clear step-by-step rounds, photos and finishing instructions guide you through every part. Perfect for gifting or adding to your handmade collection.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Yarn A - Yarnart Jeans 160 m/50 gr (Sport weight, color sample 70) - main dark-brown and base tones for back
  • 02
    Yarn B - Alize Cotton Gold Batik 330 m/100 gr (Sport weight, color sample 3300) - light-brown for shell transitions and body
  • 03
    Yarn C - Alize Cotton Gold Tweed 330 m/100 gr (Sport weight, color sample 62) - white/cream for muzzle, plates, spikes and details
  • 04
    Additional small amounts: white, red and yellow yarn for bonus popcorn bucket (Yarn C, Alize Cotton Gold Hobby color 56 or Gazzal Jeans color 1125 referenced)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook 1.75 mm (for crocheting dinosaur)
  • 02
    Crochet hook 1.5 mm (for crocheting cheeks, spikes and plates)
  • 03
    10 mm safety eyes (2 pieces)
  • 04
    Black, white and pink threads mouliné for embroidery
  • 05
    2 pins or stitch markers
  • 06
    Needles for cutting - with a bead on the end (for fixing parts before sewing)
  • 07
    Synthepus (polyester stuffing) for filling
  • 08
    Scissors
  • 09
    Yarn needle (thick needle with blunt end)
  • 10
    Sewing needle
  • 11
    Round-nose pliers
  • 12
    Cotter pin T-shaped 25 x 2.0 mm
  • 13
    Shim 3 x 20 mm
  • 14
    Disk, diameter 20 mm
  • 15
    Steel wire, diameter 1.6 mm (optional for tail)
  • 16
    Electrical tape
  • 17
    White felt, black threads, super glue and a coin for the popcorn bucket bonus
  • 18
    White cardboard for popcorn bucket bonus

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Round 1 :

Yarn A: 11 loops, turning, 10sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook) (10l)

Round 2 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 8sc, inc (12l)

Round 3 :

1 loop, turning, 12sc (12l)

Round 4 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 10sc, inc (14l)

Round 5 :

1 loop, turning, 14sc only through front loops (14l)

Round 6-7 :

1 loop, turning, 14sc (14l)

Round 8 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 10sc, dec (12l)

Round 9 :

1 loop, turning, 12sc only through front loops (12l)

Round 10-11 :

1 loop, turning, 12sc (12l)

Round 12 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 10sc, inc (14l)

Round 13 :

1 loop, turning, 14sc only through front loops (14l)

Round 14-15 :

1 loop, turning, 14sc (14l)

Round 16 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 10sc, dec (12l)

Round 17 :

1 loop, turning, 12sc only through front loops (12l)

Round 18 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 8sc, dec (10l)

Round 19 :

1 loop, turning, [dec]x2, 2sc, [dec]x2 (6l)

Round 20 :

1 loop, turning, 6sc (6l)

Round 21 :

1 loop, turning, 6sc only through front loops (6l)

Round 22 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 2sc, dec (4l)

Info :

Next change the color to yarn B. To get a beautiful line when changing color in the next row crochet part of the sc in this way - half of the sc with dark-brown (yarn A), and the other half with light-brown (yarn B).

Round 23 :

22sc up; 10sc straight; 22sc down; 4sc straight (58l)

Info :

Next cut the yarn A and continue crocheting with yarn B only!

Round 24 :

4sc, dec, 10sc, dec, 18sc, dec, 10sc, dec, 8sc (54l)

Round 25-27 :

54sc (54l)

Round 28 :

[7sc, dec]x6 (48l)

Round 29 :

[6sc, dec]x6 (42l)

Round 30 :

[5sc, dec]x6 (36l)

Round 31 :

[sc, dec]x12 (24l)

Muzzle (Yarn C) :

1: 5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 4sc (from the back of the chain) (8l)

Round 2 :

[sc, inc]x4 (12l)

Round 3 :

12sc, sl st in the 1st sc (12l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Sew the muzzle to the head as shown in photos. Insert safety eyes between the rounds 26 and 27, the distance between them is approximately 12 stitches, don’t fix yet.

Round 32 :

[dec]x12 (12l)

Info :

Completely fill the head. Insert cotter pin into shim. Place cotter pin between 31 and 32 round of the head as shown in photos and secure the disk.

Round 33 :

[dec]x6 (6l)

Info :

Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure.

— Spikes (Yarn C) :

Info :

Crochet spikes with a hook 1,5 mm, split Yarn C in half!

SMALL, 2 pcs - Round 1 :

2 loops, 4sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (4l)

Round 2 :

4sc (4l)

Round 3 :

[inc]x4 (8l)

Round 4 :

[3sc, inc]x2 (10l)

Round 5 :

10sc (10l)

Round 6 :

[4sc, inc]x2 (12l)

Round 7-8 :

12sc (12l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Slightly stuff the spikes with synthepus and sew it to the head.

BIG, 2 pcs - Round 1 :

2 loops, 3sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (3l)

Round 2 :

sc, inc, sc (4l)

Round 3 :

[sc, inc]x2 (6l)

Round 4 :

[inc]x6 (12l)

Round 5 :

[2sc, inc]x4 (16l)

Round 6 :

16sc (16l)

Round 7 :

[7sc, inc]x2 (18l)

Round 8-9 :

18sc (18l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Slightly stuff the spikes with synthepus and sew it to the head.

— Tail (Yarn A) :

Info :

Tail club is crocheted in two identical details. Crochet the first detail as follows below:

Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)

Round 2 :

[sc, inc]x3 (9l)

Round 3 :

9sc (9l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread. Crochet the second detail according to the same scheme, do not cut the thread. To connect the details insert the hook initially into the first detail (from the inside to the outside), and then into the second detail (from the outside to the inside).

Round 6 (incomplete round) :

crochet 3sc of the first detail together with 3sc of the second detail, then crochet 6sc along the second detail

Round 7 :

crochet 6sc on the first part, crochet 6sc on the second part (12l)

Round 6 :

[4sc, dec]x2 (10l)

Round 7 :

[3sc, dec]x2 (8l)

Round 8 :

[2sc, dec]x2 (6l)

Round 9-10 :

6sc (6l)

Round 11 :

sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (8l)

Round 12 :

8sc (8l)

Round 13 :

2sc, [inc]x2, 4sc (10l)

Round 14 :

10sc (10l)

Round 15 :

3sc, [inc]x2, 5sc (12l)

Round 16 :

5sc, [inc]x2, 5sc (14l)

Round 17 :

7sc, [inc]x2, 5sc (16l)

Round 18 :

8sc, [inc]x2, 6sc (18l)

Info :

Cut a piece of decorative wire approximately 12 cm (4.7 inches). Twist one end of the wire into a loop, and twist the other end into the ring (of diameter equal to the tail opening) with the help of round nose pliers. Wrap the place of twisting with electrical tape. Insert crochet tail to the wire or stuff with synthepus if not using wire.

Round 19 :

18sc (18l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread. Mark with a pin the place where the tail connect to the back - move the pin to the 12th loop right from the beginning of the round.

— Body (Back, Yarn A) :

Round 1 :

14 loops, turning, 13sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook) (13l)

Round 2 :

1 loop, turning, 13sc (13l)

Round 3 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 11sc, inc (15l)

Round 4 :

1 loop, turning, 15sc only through front loops (15l)

Round 5 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 13sc, inc (17l)

Round 6 :

1 loop, turning, 17sc (17l)

Round 7 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 15sc, inc (19l)

Round 8 :

1 loop, turning, 19sc only through front loops (19l)

Round 9-11 :

1 loop, turning, 19sc (19l)

Round 12 :

1 loop, turning, 19sc only through front loops (19l)

Round 13 :

1 loop, turning, 19sc (19l)

Round 14 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 15sc, dec (17l)

Round 15 :

1 loop, turning, 17sc (17l)

Round 16 :

1 loop, turning, 17sc only through front loops (17l)

Round 17 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 13sc, dec (15l)

Round 18 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 11sc, dec (13l)

Round 19 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 9sc, dec (11l)

Round 20 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 7sc, dec only through front loops (9l)

Round 21 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 5sc, dec (7l)

Round 22 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 3sc, dec (5l)

Round 23 :

1 loop, turning, crochet 5sc of the back together with 5sc of the tail (to join tail to back)

Info :

Next change the color to yarn B. To get a beautiful line when changing color in the next row (the same way as for the head) crochet part of the sc in this way - half of the sc with dark-brown (yarn A), and the other half with light-brown (yarn B). Crochet the body around the perimeter in a counter-clockwise direction from the point 'Start'.

Round 24 :

crochet 22sc, 13sc, 22sc on the back; crochet 13sc on the tail (70l)

Info :

Sew the holes between the tail and the back using extra thread.

Round 25-27 :

70sc (70l)

Round 28 :

[5sc, dec]x10 (60l)

Round 29 :

[8sc, dec]x6 (54l)

— Neck (Yarn C) :

Round 1 :

5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook) (4l)

Round 2 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 2sc, inc (6l)

Round 3 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 4sc, inc (8l)

Round 4 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 6sc, inc (10l)

Round 5-9 :

10sc (10l)

Round 10 :

8sc down; 4sc straight; 8sc up, 10sc straight (30l)

Info :

Mark with a pin the place where the neck connect to the body - move the pin for 1 loop right from the beginning of the round. Cut and fix the thread. Continue crochet the body, change the thread to yarn C. Connect the body with the neck in the next round by crocheting the parts together.

Round 30 :

crochet 9sc, dec, 7sc along the body; crochet 10sc of the body together with 10sc of the neck; then crochet 2sc, dec, [9sc, dec]x2 along the body (60l)

Round 31-33 :

60sc (60l)

Info :

Insert cotter pin between 6 and 7 row of the neck (in the middle). Put the disk on cotter pin and wrap the ends in the 'rings' with the help of round-nosed pliers.

Round 34 :

[3sc, dec]x12 (48l)

Round 35 :

[2sc, dec]x12 (36l)

Info :

Start stuffing the body with synthepus.

Round 36 :

[sc, dec]x12 (24l)

Round 37 :

[2sc, dec]x6 (18l)

Round 38 :

[sc, dec]x6 (12l)

Info :

Completely fill the body.

— Plates (Yarn C) :

Info :

Crochet plates with a hook 1,5 mm, split Yarn C in half!

SMALL, 8 pcs - Round 1 :

2 loops, 4sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (4l)

Round 2 :

[sc, inc]x2 (6l)

Round 3 :

6sc (6l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

MIDDLE, 10 pcs - Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)

Round 2 :

[2sc, inc]x2 (8l)

Round 3 :

8sc (8l)

Round 4 :

[3sc, inc]x2 (10l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

BIG, 4 pcs - Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)

Round 2 :

[sc, inc]x3 (9l)

Round 3 :

[2sc, inc]x3 (12l)

Round 4-5 :

12sc (12l)

Info :

Slightly stuff the plates with synthepus. Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Sew the plates to the back, placing them on the lines of the remaining back loops in a checkerboard pattern.

— Legs (Yarn B) :

FRONT, 2 pcs - Round 1 :

5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 4sc (from the back of the chain) (8l)

Round 2 :

3sc in the next loop, 6sc, 3sc in the next loop (12l)

Round 3 :

only through back loops 12sc (12l)

Round 4-5 :

[inc]x2, 3sc, {sc3tog}*, 4sc (12l) *{sc3tog} – sc next 3 stitches together (single crochet decrease)

Round 6 :

[dec]x2, 3sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (12l)

Round 7 :

12sc (12l)

Info :

Start stuffing the leg with synthepus.

Round 8 :

[dec]x2, 3sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (12l)

Round 9-14 :

12sc (12l)

Round 15 :

[sc, dec]x4 (8l)

Round 16 :

[2sc, dec]x2 (6l)

Info :

Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure.

BACK, 2 pcs - Round 1 :

5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 4sc (from the back of the chain) (8l)

Round 2 :

3sc in the next loop, 6sc, 3sc in the next loop (12l)

Round 3 :

only through back loops 12sc (12l)

Round 4-5 :

[inc]x2, 3sc, {sc3tog}*, 4sc (12l)

Round 6 :

[dec]x2, 3sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (12l)

Round 7 :

12sc (12l)

Round 8 :

[dec]x2, 3sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (12l)

Round 9-12 :

12sc (12l)

Round 13 :

[sc, dec]x4 (8l)

Round 14 :

[2sc, dec]x2 (6l)

Info :

Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure. THOES, 3 pcs on each leg (Yarn C, in two folds). Embroider 3 toes on each leg with French knot.

— Assemblage :

Info :

Sew your crocheted legs to the body with a threaded bracing (use round-nosed pliers to make it easier to pull the needle). For this, it is necessary: 1. Attach the legs using needles for cutting (front legs between 29 and 30 rounds of body, distance between legs approx 24 stitches, back legs between 25 and 26 rounds of body, distance between legs approx 16 stitches - view from above).

Info :

2. Insert the needle through the back into the front leg attachment point (leaving the loose end of the thread outside). 3. Thread the needle through two loops on the inner surface of the leg (the needle for cutting must be in the middle). 4. Insert the needle into the body at the leg attachment point and pull out it at the point of attachment of the second leg. Repeat and secure so the dinosaur stands steadily.

Info :

Sew the head to the body using the cotter pin assembly: insert cotter pin through shim and disk to allow the head to turn. Sew plates and spikes as shown, placing plates in checkerboard pattern. Embroider nostrils and mouth with black threads, stitch white highlights and attach cheeks (crochet cheeks with hook 1.5 mm: 2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook, sl st in 1st sc (6l)).

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the head to the body using the cotter pin assembly: insert the cotter pin through the neck shim and disk, place between specified neck rounds, secure the disk with round-nosed pliers and wrap with electrical tape before closing.
  • Sew the legs using threaded bracing: place front legs between rounds 29-30 of the body spaced approx 24 stitches apart, back legs between rounds 25-26 spaced approx 16 stitches apart; stitch through leg and body loops, pull tight and secure.
  • Sew the tail to the back by aligning the tail opening to the back and joining 5sc of the back together with 5sc of the tail (see photo reference). Close any holes with extra thread.
  • Arrange plates and spikes on the back in a checkerboard pattern and sew them in place using the long tails left from each plate; slightly stuff plates and spikes before sewing for a rounded look.
  • Insert safety eyes between rounds 26 and 27 of the head (about 12 stitches apart) but do not fully fasten until embroidery is complete; embroider eye highlights and mouth with black and white threads as instructed.
  • If using decorative wire in the tail, insert wire and crochet the tail over it, folding ends into a loop and wrapping with electrical tape; if not using wire, stuff the tail firmly with synthepus and sew closed.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of the start of each round, especially when changing color and working around the perimeter.
  • 💡Stuff tightly where instructed (neck and body) so the toy holds its shape, but add stuffing gradually for even shaping.
  • 💡When changing colors across a single stitch, work half the single crochet with the previous color and finish the other half with the new color for a clean color join.
  • 💡Leave long thread ends on small decorative pieces (plates, spikes, muzzle) so you can position and sew them securely in place.

This little Ankylosaurus Bruno is full of character and handmade charm — perfect for collectors and gift givers. Follow the detailed rounds, photos and finishing tips to create a sturdy, poseable toy with a movable head and textured shell. Enjoy stitching tiny plates and spikes that make this dino extra lovable. 🧶🐾

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 7 cm (2.8 inches) high and 12 cm (4.7 inches) in length without a tail, using the recommended yarn and hooks.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will affect the final size and density. If using thicker yarn, choose a correspondingly larger hook; if thinner yarn, use a smaller hook and expect a smaller finished toy.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of crochet stitches (sc, inc, dec), working in rows and rounds, and sewing parts together is recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though time may vary based on experience level, detail work and finishing time.