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Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern
4.3★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.4K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates Bruno, an adorable ankylosaurus amigurumi with a chunky body, spikes and a club tail. The design features color changes, sewn-on plates and embroidered facial details for personality. Clear round-by-round instructions and photo guidance help you assemble a stable, poseable toy.

Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Includes head, body, tail, legs, plates and spike instructions plus assembly notes. Perfect as a gift or a cute shelf companion.

Why You'll Love This Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines playful texture with realistic dinosaur details, making Bruno both cute and characterful. I enjoyed designing the plate placement and the movable tail — small features that add big personality. The pattern balances clear rounds with creative assembly steps so you can produce a polished toy. I take pride in the photo-supported instructions that make shaping and finishing much easier. Seeing Bruno come together is always rewarding and brings a smile every time.

Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize Bruno by changing yarn colors — try pastel shades for a softer look or bright colors for a playful, toy-like style.

To make Bruno larger or smaller, change yarn weight and adjust your hook accordingly; bulky yarn with a larger hook gives a chunky cuddly dinosaur, while thin yarn creates a tiny keychain version.

I often add embroidered patterns to the plates or a tiny crocheted scarf for seasonal looks — these small props add personality and storytelling potential.

Try different eye sizes to change Bruno's expression: larger safety eyes give a cuter appeal, while smaller eyes look more realistic.

If you want a posable tail, insert a decorative wire and wrap carefully with electrical tape; otherwise leave it soft and sculptable with stuffing.

I like to experiment with faux-fur yarn for a whimsical fuzzy version — use it only on the shell to keep details visible.

Embroider different mouth shapes or eyebrows to create a range of expressions from grumpy to joyful — tiny shifts can change his personality a lot.

Make sets of mini dinosaurs using contrast color palettes for plates and spikes so each one looks unique and collectible.

For a safer toy for small children, omit wire, use embroidered eyes instead of safety eyes and secure all small parts with extra stitching and glue.

Turn Bruno into a character by adding a tiny crocheted popcorn bucket or accessories from the bonus section to tell a story in your gift or display.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the stitch marker at the beginning of each round can lead to losing track of the start; put a marker and move it each round for accurate stitch counts. ✗ Not stuffing gradually causes lumps or flat areas in the head and body; stuff bit by bit and shape as you go to maintain smooth curves. ✗ Pulling single crochet stitches too tightly during color changes will distort the seams; keep moderate tension and crochet half of the stitch with each color when instructed. ✗ Forgetting to insert the cotter pin or shim correctly makes the head unstable; follow the insertion and disk wrapping instructions carefully to allow controlled movement. ✗ Sewing plates and spikes without pinning first can give uneven spacing; pin all parts in place and check symmetry before permanently stitching.

Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

Create Bruno the ankylosaurus — a chubby, movie-loving little tank with spikes, a movable tail and a sweet face. This detailed pattern guides you through crocheting every piece, attaching plates and adding embroidered features so your finished toy looks professional. Enjoy step-by-step rounds and assembly tips to make a durable, poseable amigurumi you will be proud of.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Yarn A: Yarnart Jeans color 70 — 160 m / 50 g (Sport weight) approximately as used for dark brown parts
  • 02
    Yarn B: Alize Cotton Gold Batik color 3300 — 330 m / 100 g (Sport weight) for light-brown stripes and body transitions
  • 03
    Yarn C: Alize Cotton Gold Tweed color 62 — 330 m / 100 g (Sport weight) used for plates, muzzle and details
  • 04
    Bonus popcorn bucket: White, red and yellow yarn (e.g., Alize Cotton Gold Hobby color 56 and Gazzal Jeans color 1125) and white cardboard for the bucket

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 1.75 mm (for crocheting dinosaur)
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 1.5 mm (for crocheting cheeks, spikes and plates)
  • 03
    10 mm safety eyes (2 pieces)
  • 04
    Black, white and pink threads moulinе for embroidering details
  • 05
    2 pins or 2 markers
  • 06
    Needles for cutting - with a bead on the end (for fixing parts before sewing)
  • 07
    Synthepus (polyester stuffing) for filling
  • 08
    Scissors
  • 09
    Yarn needle (thick needle with blunt end)
  • 10
    Needle
  • 11
    Round-nose pliers
  • 12
    Cotter pin T-shaped 25 x 2.0 mm
  • 13
    Shim 3x20 mm
  • 14
    Disk, diameter 20 mm
  • 15
    Steel wire, diameter 1.6 mm
  • 16
    Electrical tape
  • 17
    White felt, black threads and super glue (for popcorn bucket bonus)
  • 18
    Coin (for popcorn bucket bonus)
  • 19
    Pins for assembly

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Round 1 :

11 loops, turning, 10sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook) (10l)

Round 2 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 8sc, inc (12l)

Round 3 :

1 loop, turning, 12sc (12l)

Round 4 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 10sc, inc (14l)

Round 5 :

1 loop, turning, 14sc only through front loops (14l)

Round 6-7 :

1 loop, turning, 14sc (14l)

Round 8 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 10sc, dec (12l)

Round 9 :

1 loop, turning, 12sc only through front loops (12l)

Round 10-11 :

1 loop, turning, 12sc (12l)

Round 12 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 10sc, inc (14l)

Round 13 :

1 loop, turning, 14sc only through front loops (14l)

Round 14-15 :

1 loop, turning 14sc (14l)

Round 16 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 10sc, dec (12l)

Round 17 :

1 loop, turning, 12sc only through front loops (12l)

Round 18 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 8sc, dec (10l)

Round 19 :

1 loop, turning, [dec]x2, 2sc, [dec]x2 (6l)

Round 20 :

1 loop, turning, 6sc (6l)

Round 21 :

1 loop, turning, 6sc only through front loops (6l)

Round 22 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 2sc, dec (4l)

Info :

Next change the color to yarn B. To get a beautiful line when changing color in the next row crochet part of the sc in this way - half of the sc with dark-brown (yarn A), and the other half with light-brown (yarn B).

Round 23 :

22sc up; 10sc straight; 22sc down; 4sc straight (58l) (see photos 1-3)

Info :

Next cut the yarn A and continue crocheting with yarn B only!

Round 24 :

4sc, dec, 10sc, dec, 18sc, dec, 10sc, dec, 8sc (54l)

Round 25-27 :

54sc (54l)

Round 28 :

[7sc, dec]x6 (48l)

Round 29 :

[6sc, dec]x6 (42l)

Round 30 :

[5sc, dec]x6 (36l)

Round 31 :

[sc, dec]x12 (24l)

Next :

Start instructions for MUZZLE (Yarn C) below

— Muzzle :

Round 1 :

5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 4sc (from the back of the chain) (8l)

Round 2 :

[sc, inc]x4 (12l)

Round 3 :

12sc, sl st in the 1st sc (12l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing (see photo 4). Sew the muzzle to the head as shown on photo 5.

Info :

Insert safety eyes between the rounds 26 and 27, the distance between them is approximately 12 stitches, don't fix yet (see photo 6).

Info :

Using the yarn needle to do from above of the eye "loose stitch" of black thread floss (see photos 7, 8). Separate one thread and fasten with a needle "loose stitch" in the middle of the eye (see photos 9, 10). Embroider one more "loose stitch" 1 mm higher than the previous one, in order to get an oval shape (see photos 11-14).

Info :

Using yarn needle to do from below the eye "loose stitch" of white thread floss (see photos 15, 16). Separate one thread and fasten with a needle "loose stitch" (see photo 17). Press the eye to the embroidered line and fasten it.

Info :

Divide the black threads floss in half, embroider the nostrils and mouth (see photos 18-24).

Info :

Cut 2 pieces of the black threads floss about 0.5 cm (0.2 inches) long. Attach to the forehead and arrange symmetrically, mark with the pins the beginning and end of the segment. Embroider eyebrows (see photo 25-28).

Section :

CHEEKS, 2 pcs (Pink threads mouline) Crochet cheeks with a hook 1,5 mm.

Cheeks Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring), sl st in 1st sc (6l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Sew the cheeks to the head with the wrong side outward (see photos 29, 30).

— Spikes (Yarn C) :

Note :

Crochet spikes with a hook 1,5 mm, split Yarn C in half!

SMALL, 2 pcs Round 1 :

2 loops, 4sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (4l)

Round 2 :

4sc (4l)

Round 3 :

[inc]x4 (8l)

Round 4 :

[3sc, inc]x2 (10l)

Round 5 :

10sc (10l)

Round 6 :

[4sc, inc]x2 (12l)

Round 7-8 :

12sc (12l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Slightly stuff the spikes with synthepus and sew it to the head.

BIG, 2 pcs Round 1 :

2 loops, 3sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (3l)

Round 2 :

sc, inc, sc (4l)

Round 3 :

[sc, inc]x2 (6l)

Round 4 :

[inc]x6 (12l)

Round 5 :

[2sc, inc]x4 (16l)

Round 6 :

16sc (16l)

Round 7 :

[7sc, inc]x2 (18l)

Round 8-9 :

18sc (18l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Slightly stuff the spikes with synthepus and sew it to the head (see photos 34-36).

— Tail :

Tail club :

Tail club is crocheted in two identical details. Crochet the first detail as follows below:

Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)

Round 2 :

[sc, inc]x3 (9l)

Round 3 :

9sc (9l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread. Crochet the second detail according to the same scheme, do not cut the thread. To connect the details insert the hook initially into the first detail (from the inside to the outside), and then into the second detail (from the outside to the inside) (see photos 37, 38).

Round 6 (incomplete) :

crochet 3sc of the first detail together with 3sc of the second detail, then crochet 6sc along the second detail (see photo 39)

Round 7 :

crochet 6sc on the first part, crochet 6sc on the second part (12l) (see photo 40-42)

Round 6 continued :

[4sc, dec]x2 (10l)

Round 7 :

[3sc, dec]x2 (8l)

Round 8 :

[2sc, dec]x2 (6l)

Round 9-10 :

6sc (6l)

Round 11 :

sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (8l)

Round 12 :

8sc (8l)

Round 13 :

2sc, [inc]x2, 4sc (10l)

Round 14 :

10sc (10l)

Round 15 :

3sc, [inc]x2, 5sc (12l)

Round 16 :

5sc, [inc]x2, 5sc (14l)

Round 17 :

7sc, [inc]x2, 5sc (16l)

Round 18 :

8sc, [inc]x2, 6sc (18l)

Info :

Cut a piece of decorative wire approximately 12 cm (4.7 inches). Twist one end of the wire into a loop, and twist the other end into the ring (of diameter equal to the tail opening) with the help of round nose pliers (see photo 43-45). Wrap the place of twisting with electrical tape (see photo 46). Insert crochet tail to the wire.

Round 19 :

18sc (18l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread. Mark with a pin the place where the tail connect to the back - move the pin to the 12th loop right from the beginning of the round (see photo 51).

— Body (Back then Body) :

BACK (Yarn A) Round 1 :

14 loops, turning, 13sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook) (13l)

Round 2 :

1 loop, turning, 13sc (13l)

Round 3 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 11sc, inc (15l)

Round 4 :

1 loop, turning, 15sc only through front loops (15l)

Round 5 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 13sc, inc (17l)

Round 6 :

1 loop, turning, 17sc (17l)

Round 7 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 15sc, inc (19l)

Round 8 :

1 loop, turning, 19sc only through front loops (19l)

Round 9-11 :

1 loop, turning, 19sc (19l)

Round 12 :

1 loop, turning, 19sc only through front loops (19l)

Round 13 :

1 loop, turning, 19sc (19l)

Round 14 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 15sc, dec (17l)

Round 15 :

1 loop, turning, 17sc (17l)

Round 16 :

1 loop, turning, 17sc only through front loops (17l)

Round 17 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 13sc, dec (15l)

Round 18 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 11sc, dec (13l)

Round 19 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 9sc, dec (11l)

Round 20 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 7sc, dec only through front loops (9l)

Round 21 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 5sc, dec (7l)

Round 22 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 3sc, dec (5l)

Info :

Connect the back with the tail in the next round. To connect the details insert the hook initially into the tail (from the inside to the outside), and then into the back (from the outside to the inside) (see photos 52-55).

Round 23 :

1 loop, turning, crochet 5sc of the back together with 5sc of the tail (see photo 56)

Info :

Next change the color to yarn B. To get a beautiful line when changing color in the next row (the same way as for the head) crochet part of the sc in this way - half of the sc with dark-brown (yarn A), and the other half with light-brown (yarn B).

Info :

Crochet the body around the perimeter in a counter-clockwise direction from the point "Start" (see photo 57).

Round 24 :

crochet 22sc, 13sc, 22sc on the back; crochet 13sc on the tail (70l) (see photos 58, 59)

Info :

Sew the holes between the tail and the back using extra thread (see photo 60).

Round 25-27 :

70sc (70l)

Round 28 :

[5sc, dec]x10 (60l)

Round 29 :

[8sc, dec]x6 (54l)

NECK (Yarn C) Round 1 :

5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook) (4l)

Round 2 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 2sc, inc (6l)

Round 3 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 4sc, inc (8l)

Info :

Crochet the neck around the perimeter in a counter-clockwise direction from the point "Start" (see photo 61).

Round 10 :

8sc down; 4sc straight; 8sc up, 10sc straight (30l)

Info :

Mark with a pin the place where the neck connect to the body - move the pin for 1 loop right from the beginning of the round (see photo 62). Cut and fix the thread.

Info :

Continue crochet the body, change the thread to yarn C. Connect the body with the neck in the next round. To connect the details insert the hook initially into the neck (from the inside to the outside), and then into the body (from the outside to the inside) (see photos 63-67).

Round 30 :

crochet 9sc, dec, 7sc along the body; crochet 10sc of the body together with 10sc of the neck; then crochet 2sc, dec, [9sc, dec]x2 along the body (see photo 68) (60l)

Round 31-33 :

60sc (60l) (see photo 69)

Info :

Insert cotter pin between 6 and 7 row of the neck (in the middle, see photos 70, 71). Put the disk on cotter pin and wrap the ends in the "rings" with the help of round-nosed pliers (see photos 72-75).

Info :

Start stuffing the body with synthepus. 34: [3sc, dec]x12 (48l)

Round 35 :

[2sc, dec.]x12 (36l)

Round 36 :

[sc, dec.]x12 (24l)

Round 37 :

[2sc, dec.]x6 (18l)

Round 38 :

[sc, dec.]x6 (12l)

Info :

Completely fill the body.

— Plates (Yarn C) :

Note :

Crochet plates with a hook 1,5 mm, split Yarn C in half!

SMALL, 8 pcs Round 1 :

2 loops, 4sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (4l)

Round 2 :

[sc, inc]x2 (6l)

Round 3 :

6sc (6l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

MIDDLE, 10 pcs Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)

Round 2 :

[2sc, inc]x2 (8l)

Round 3 :

8sc (8l)

Round 4 :

[3sc, inc]x2 (10l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

BIG, 4 pcs Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)

Round 2 :

[sc, inc]x3 (9l)

Round 3 :

[2sc, inc]x3 (12l)

Round 4-5 :

12sc (12l)

Info :

Slightly stuff the plates with synthepus. Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing (see photo 79). Sew the plates to the back, placing them on the lines of the remaining back loops in a checkerboard pattern as shown on photos 80, 81.

— Legs (Yarn B) :

FRONT, 2 pcs Round 1 :

5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 4sc (from the back of the chain) (8l)

Round 2 :

3sc in the next loop, 6sc, 3sc in the next loop (12l)

Round 3 :

only through back loops 12sc (12l)

Round 4-5 :

[inc]x2, 3sc, {sc3tog}*, 4sc (12l) *{sc3tog} – sc next 3 stitches together (single crochet decrease)

Round 6 :

[dec]x2, 3sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (12l)

Round 7 :

12sc (12l)

Info :

Start stuffing the leg with synthepus.

Round 8 :

[dec]x2, 3sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (12l)

Round 9-14 :

12sc (12l)

Round 15 :

[sc, dec]x4 (8l)

Info :

Completely fill the leg.

Round 16 :

[2sc, dec]x2 (6l)

Info :

Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure.

BACK, 2 pcs Round 1 :

5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 4sc (from the back of the chain) (8l)

Round 2 :

3sc in the next loop, 6sc, 3sc in the next loop (12l)

Round 3 :

only through back loops 12sc (12l)

Round 4-5 :

[inc]x2, 3sc, {sc3tog}*, 4sc (12l)

Round 6 :

[dec]x2, 3sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (12l)

Round 7 :

12sc (12l)

Info :

Start stuffing the leg with synthepus.

Round 8 :

[dec]x2, 3sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (12l)

Round 9-12 :

12sc (12l)

Round 13 :

[sc, dec]x4 (8l)

Info :

Completely fill the leg.

Round 14 :

[2sc, dec]x2 (6l)

Info :

Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure.

THOES, 3 pcs on each leg (Yarn C, in two folds) :

Embroider 3 toes on each leg with French knot (see photos 85-90).

— Assemblage :

Assemblage Step 1 :

Sew your crocheted legs to the body with a threaded bracing (use round-nosed pliers to make it easier to pull the needle). For this, it is necessary:

Assemblage Step 2 :

1. Attach the legs using needles for cutting (front legs between 29 and 30 rounds of body, distance between legs approx 24 stitches, back legs between 25 and 26 rounds of body, distance between legs approx 16 stitches - view from above, see photos 91-93). Check that the dinosaur stand steadily. Detach the arms and legs without removing the needles from them, and insert other needles for cutting in their place (see photo 94, 95).

Assemblage Step 3 :

2. Insert the needle through the back into the front leg attachment point (leaving the loose end of the thread outside) (see photo 96, 97).

Assemblage Step 4 :

3. Thread the needle through two loops on the inner surface of the leg (the needle for cutting must be in the middle) (see photo 98).

Assemblage Step 5 :

4. Insert the needle into the body at the leg attachment point and pull out it at the point of attachment of the second leg (see photo 99).

Info :

Sew head to body using the cotter pin and shim system described earlier to allow head rotation. Weave in ends and check stability.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach legs using cutting needles in the positions indicated: front legs between rounds 29-30 of the body (approx 24 stitches apart), back legs between rounds 25-26 (approx 16 stitches apart), then sew securely with a threaded bracing.
  • Insert cotter pin and shim between rounds 31 and 32 of the head, place the disk on the pin and secure by wrapping the rings with round-nose pliers, then close and attach the head to the body so the head can turn.
  • Sew plates in a checkerboard pattern on the back using the long ends left on plates; pin all plates first to ensure symmetry before stitching.
  • Sew spikes and tail club to the head and back respectively using the long ends left for sewing and slightly stuffing spikes and plates before attaching for a defined shape.
  • Stitch cheeks and muzzle to the head with wrong side out as instructed, embroider nostrils, mouth and eyebrows using black thread floss and add white thread highlights to eyes; fix safety eyes between rounds 26 and 27 before final embroidery.
  • If using wire in the tail: insert decorative wire, create loop and ring on the ends, wrap with electrical tape, insert crochet tail over the wire and crochet the tail around the wire at three points (every 6th sc) to secure; otherwise stuff tail firmly.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of the start of each round and to help with color changes and shape transitions.
  • 💡Stuff firmly but incrementally to keep smooth shapes — overstuffing can distort details like the head and plates.
  • 💡Pin parts in place before sewing to ensure correct alignment and symmetry, especially plates and legs.
  • 💡When changing colors, crochet half of the single crochet with the old color and complete the other half with the new color for a neat seam.
  • 💡If you plan to include wire, be cautious: wire makes the tail movable but may not be safe for babies or very young children.

This chubby Ankylosaurus Bruno pattern brings prehistoric charm and modern cuteness into one small amigurumi companion. Follow the detailed rounds and photo guidance to create a durable, poseable toy full of character. Make one for yourself, a friend, or a movie night buddy — Bruno loves popcorn! 🧶🧵

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished toy measures approximately 7 cm (2.8 inches) high and 12 cm (4.7 inches) in length without the tail when using the recommended yarn and hook sizes.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but the final size and stitch counts will change. Adjust hook sizes accordingly and be prepared that plates and spikes proportions will vary.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is intermediate: basic amigurumi skills, increasing, decreasing and sewing are required. Photo steps and clear round lists help but some experience is helpful.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though time varies by experience, customization and how carefully you pin and sew parts.