Make your own cute Tyrannosaurus named Oliver with this detailed amigurumi pattern. Youll crochet a sweet, poseable dino with a removable retro TV bonus — perfect for gifting or display. The pattern includes step-by-step rounds, photo-guided finishing techniques, and tips for embroidery and assembly. Ideal for makers who love characterful toys and small-finish details.
Progress Tracker
0% Complete
— Head :
Round 1 :
7 loops, turning, 6sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 6sc (from the back of the chain) (12l)
Round 2 :
[sc, inc]x6 (18l)
Round 5 :
[2sc, inc]x6 (24l)
Round 8 :
3sc, [inc]x18, 3sc (42l)
Round 9 :
18sc, 4dc in the next loop, [dec]x4, 4dc in the next loop, 14sc (44l)
Round 10 :
19sc, [2dc in the next loop]x2, sc, 4 sl st, sc, [2dc in the next loop]x2, 15sc (48l)
Round 11-13 :
24sc, 4 sl st, 20sc (48l)
Round 14 :
18sc, [dec]x3, 4sc, [dec]x3, 14sc (42l)
Round 16 :
[5sc, dec]x6 (36l)
Round 17 :
[4sc, dec]x6 (30l)
Round 18 :
[3sc, dec]x6 (24l)
Info :
Insert safety eyes between the rounds 7 and 8, the distance between them is approximately 10 stitches, don’t fix yet (see photo 1).
Info :
Using the yarn needle to do from above of the eye «loose stitch» of black thread floss (see photos 2, 3). Separate one thread and fasten with a needle «loose stitch» in the middle of the eye (see photos 4, 5). In the same way, embroider one more «loose stitch» 1 mm higher than the previous one, in order to get an oval shape (see photos 6-9).
Info :
Using yarn needle to do from below the eye «loose stitch» of white thread floss (see photos 10, 11). Separate one thread and fasten with a needle «loose stitch» (see photo 12). Press the eye to the embroidered line and fasten it.
Info :
Divide the black threads floss in half, embroider the nostrils and mouth (see photos 13-21). Embroider 6 teeth (3pcs on each side) with white threads floss (divide in half) in the form of triangles (see photos 22-24).
Info :
“Squeeze” the eyebrows to the head with a few stitches using extra thread (see photos 25-27). Cut 2 pieces of the black threads floss about 0.5 cm (0.2 inches) long. Attach to the forehead and arrange symmetrically, mark with the pins the beginning and end of the segment. Embroider eyebrows (see photo 28-31).
— CHEEKS, 2 pcs (Pink threads mouline) :
Round 1 :
2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring), sl st in 1st sc (6l)
Info :
Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Sew the cheeks to the head with the wrong side outward (see photos 32, 33).
Info :
Start stuffing the head with synthepus and continue crocheting.
Info :
Insert cotter pin into shim (see photo 34). Place cotter pin between 14 and 15 round of the bottom of the head as shown on photos 35, 36.
Round 21 :
[2sc, dec]x6 (18l)
Round 22 :
[sc, dec]x6 (12l)
Info :
Completely fill the head.
Info :
Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure.
— CREST on the head :
Round 1 :
27 loops, turning, sl st (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), [sl st; crochet in one loop- {sl st, dc, sl st}; sl st]x8, sl st
Info :
Cut and fix the thread, leaving a very long end for sewing. Sew the crest to the head, pre-fixing it with needles for cutting, in order to achieve perfect symmetry (see photos 37-39).
— NECK and BODY :
Neck Round 1 :
Yarn A: 2 loops, 8sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (8l)
Neck Round 2 :
[inc]x8 (16l)
Info :
Next, you need to crochet the body of yarn A and yarn B at once, alternately change the thread, but not cutting it to get a white breast. This technique is called jacquard. Color changing technique: when crocheting the last green sc, insert the hook into the loop, pull out the thread, crochet this sc to the end with a white thread. Then the green thread is thrown forward, and the white working thread goes backwards. To change the color back repeat the same sequence with green.
Round 3 :
[3sc, inc]x2 (Yarn B); [3sc, inc]x2 (Yarn A) (20l)
Round 4 :
only through back loops 10sc (Yarn B); 10sc (Yarn A) (20l)
Round 5 :
[4sc, inc]x2 (Yarn B); [4sc, inc]x2 (Yarn A) (24l)
Info :
Insert cotter pin in the middle of the neck (see photo 56). Put the disk on cotter pin and wrap the ends in the "rings" with the help of round-nosed pliers (see photos 57-60).
Round 6 :
12sc (Yarn B); 6sc, 4 loops, turning, 3sc starting from the 2nd loop from the hook, sl st in the same loop (in which the last sc was crocheted before the chain), 6sc (Yarn A) (30l)
Round 7 :
12sc (Yarn B); 9sc, 4 loops, turning, 3sc starting from the 2nd loop from the hook, sl st in the same loop, 9sc (Yarn A) (36l)
Round 8 :
[5sc, inc]x2 (Yarn B); [5sc, inc]x4 (Yarn A) (42l)
Round 9 :
14sc (Yarn B); [6sc, inc]x2, 4 loops, turning, 3sc starting from the 2nd loop from the hook, sl st in the same loop, [6sc, inc]x2 (Yarn A) (52l)
Round 10 :
14sc (Yarn B); [7sc, inc]x2, 6sc, [7sc, inc]x2 (Yarn A) (56l)
Round 11 :
14sc (Yarn B); 21sc, 4 loops, turning, 3sc starting from the 2nd loop from the hook, sl st in the same loop, 21sc (Yarn A) (62l)
Round 12 :
14sc (Yarn B); 24sc, 4 loops, turning, 3sc starting from the 2nd loop from the hook, sl st in the same loop, 24sc (Yarn A) (68l)
Info :
Don't cut the thread. Take another end of the yarn ball and crochet the tail.
— TAIL (Yarn A) :
Round 1 :
2 loops, 4sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (4l)
Round 2 :
[inc]x2, dec (5l)
Round 3 :
sc, [inc]x2, dec (6l)
Round 4 :
sc, [inc]x2, sc, dec (7l)
Round 5 :
sc, [inc]x3, sc, dec (9l)
Round 6 :
2sc, inc, sc, inc, 2sc, dec (10l)
Round 8 :
3sc, [inc]x3, 2sc, dec (12l)
Round 10 :
3sc, [inc]x5, 2sc, dec (16l)
Round 12 :
dec, 4sc, [inc]x4, 4sc, dec (18l)
Round 14 :
dec, 5sc, [inc]x4, 5sc, dec (20l)
Info :
Cut and fix the thread. Stuff the tail with synthepus. Mark with a pin the place where the tail connects to the back - move the pin to the 12th loop from the beginning of the round count clockwise (see photo 69).
Info :
Connect the body with the tail in the next round. To connect the details insert the hook initially into the tail (from the inside to the outside), and then into the body (from the outside to the inside) (see photos 70-73).
Round 13 (incomplete round) :
14sc (Yarn B); crochet 26sc along the body, crochet 2sc of the body together with 2sc of the tail, then crochet 26sc along the body (Yarn A)
Round 14 :
15sc (Yarn B); crochet 25sc on the body, crochet 18sc on the tail, crochet 26sc on the body (Yarn A) (84l)
Round 15 :
15sc (Yarn B); 19sc, [dec]x3, 18sc, [dec]x3, 20sc (Yarn A) (78l)
Round 16 :
16sc (Yarn B); 15sc, [dec]x3, 18sc, [dec]x3, 17sc (Yarn A) (72l)
Round 17 :
16sc (Yarn B); 12sc, [dec]x3, 18sc, [dec]x3, 14sc (Yarn A) (66l)
Round 18 :
17sc (Yarn B); 14sc, [sc, dec]x6, 17sc (Yarn A) (60l)
Round 19 :
17sc (Yarn B); 14sc, [dec]x6, 17sc (Yarn A) (54l)
Info :
Next cut yarn A and continue crocheting with yarn B only.
Round 20 :
[7sc, dec]x6 (48l)
Round 21 :
[6sc, dec]x6 (42l)
Round 22 :
[5sc, dec]x6 (36l)
Round 23 :
[4sc, dec]x6 (30l)
Round 24 :
[3sc, dec]x6 (24l)
Round 25 :
[2sc, dec]x6 (18l)
Round 26 :
[sc, dec]x6 (12l)
Info :
Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure. Tip: Cut out a circle of white felt slightly larger than the resulting hole and insert it into the hole to prevent stuffing from clinging to the hook during closing.
— LEGS, 2 pcs (Yarn A) :
Round 1 :
9 loops, turning, 8 sl st (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 8 sl st (from the back of the chain) (16l)
Round 2 :
[7sc, inc]x2 (18l)
Round 7 :
3sc, dec, 8sc, dec, 3sc (16l)
Round 8 :
3sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 3sc (14l)
Round 9 :
2sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 2sc (12l)
Info :
Start stuffing the leg with synthepus.
Round 12 :
sc, [dec]x2, 2sc, [dec]x2, sc (8l)
Round 13 :
sc, dec, 2sc, dec, sc (6l)
Info :
Completely fill the leg, don’t stuff further.
Round 14 :
6sc only through back loops (6l)
Round 15 :
4sc, [inc]x2 (8l)
Round 16 :
4sc, [inc]x4 (12l)
Round 18 :
7sc, [inc]x4, sc (16l)
Info :
Change the thread to Yarn B (leave the long end of Yarn A). Remove the pin that marks the beginning of the round. Fold the resulting 16 loops in half and in the next round, crochet both halves together.
Round 20 :
1 loop, turning, 8 sl st (8l) (see photos 79-84)
— HANDS, 2 pcs (Yarn A) :
Round 1 :
2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)
Round 2 :
[inc, sc]x3 (9l)
Round 4 :
[inc]x3, [dec]x3 (9l)
Round 6 :
[dec]x3, [inc]x3 (9l)
Info :
Stuff the hand with synthepus.
Round 7 :
[sc, dec]x3 (6l)
Info :
Change the thread to Yarn B, cut the Yarn A thread. Remove the pin that marks the beginning of the round. Fold the resulting 6 loops in half and in the next round, crochet both halves together.
Round 8 :
1 loop, turning, 3 sl st (3l) (see photos 97, 98)
Round 9 :
1 loop, turning, crochet in 1 loop - {sc, 2 loops, sl st}; sl st; crochet in 1 loop - {sc, 2 loops, sl st} (see photo 99)
— CREST on the body :
Round 1 :
45 loops, turning, sl st (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), [sl st; crochet in one loop- {sl st, dc, sl st}; sl st]x14, sl st
Info :
Cut and fix the thread, leaving a very long end for sewing. Sew the crest to the body, pre-fixing it with needles for cutting, in order to achieve perfect symmetry (see photos 100-102).
— SPOTS :
SPOTS SMALL, 8 pcs :
1: 3 loops, turning, 2sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 2sc (from the back of the chain) sl st in 1st sc (4l). Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.
SPOTS MIDDLE, 6 pcs :
1: 4 loops, turning, 3sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 3sc (from the back of the chain) sl st in 1st sc (6l). Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.
SPOTS BIG, 4 pcs :
1: 5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 4sc (from the back of the chain) sl st in 1st sc (8l). Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.
— Assemblage :
Info :
Sew on the spots on the hands, legs, back and tail (see photos 103-105).
Info :
Sew your crocheted hands and legs to the body with a threaded bracing (use round-nosed pliers to make it easier to pull the needle). For this: Attach the hands and legs using needles for cutting (hands between 9 and 10 rounds of body, distance between hands approx 16 stitches, legs between 17 and 18 rounds of body, distance between legs approx 26 stitches - view from above, see photos 106-108). Check that the dinosaur stands steadily. Detach the hands and legs without removing the needles from them, and insert other needles for cutting in their place (see photos 109, 110).
Info :
Insert the needle through the back into the hand attachment point (leaving the loose end of the thread outside) (see photos 111, 112). Thread the needle through two loops on the inner surface of the hand (the needle for cutting must be in the middle) (see photo 113). Insert the needle into the body at the hand attachment point and pull out it at the point of attachment of the second hand (see photo 114). Pass the needle through the second hand in the same way (see photo 115). Sew the body and the hands two more times in the same way for strength (see photo 116). Insert the needle at the hand attachment point and pull out it at the point of attachment of the opposite leg (see photo 117). Thread the needle through the leg (see photo 118). Insert the needle into the body at the leg attachment point and pull out it at the point of attachment of the second leg (see photo 119). Pass the needle through the second leg (see photo 120). Sew the body and the legs two more times in the same way for strength (see photo 121). Insert the needle into the body at the leg attachment point and pull out it the back in the place, where it was introduced at the very beginning (see photo 122). Tie a few knots and hide the thread (see photo 123).
This Tyrannosaurus Oliver pattern brings a playful, handcrafted dinosaur to life with charming details and a tiny retro TV bonus. Make Oliver as a thoughtful gift, desk companion, or part of a handmade toy collection. Enjoy the detailed photo guidance, embroidery tips, and sturdy assembly instructions for a satisfying finish. 🧶🧵
