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The Twelve Days of Christmas: Holiday Crochet Part 2 Pattern

The Twelve Days of Christmas: Holiday Crochet Part 2 Pattern
4.9β˜… Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.2K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

πŸŽ„

Holiday Cheer

Festive fun for the season, bringing handmade magic to celebrations and creating new family traditions.

About This The Twelve Days of Christmas: Holiday Crochet Part 2 Pattern

This pattern pack contains multiple holiday projects: crochet-covered foam ornaments, layered ombre trees made from stacked discs, playful garlands, and a reusable gift bag formula. Each project is written for 4-ply worsted yarn (two strands held together when noted) with hook recommendations and helpful finishing tips. The focus is on stash-busting, simple shaping techniques, and steaming/blocking to create professional-looking results.

The Twelve Days of Christmas: Holiday Crochet Part 2 Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Projects use basic crochet stitches with clear round-by-round instructions and helpful assembly photos and notes. Perfect for creating coordinated holiday dΓ©cor or quick handmade gifts from your yarn scraps.

Why You'll Love This The Twelve Days of Christmas: Holiday Crochet Part 2 Pattern

I absolutely love this collection because it turns leftover yarn into beautiful holiday decor that looks polished and intentional. I enjoy the simple shaping and the way steaming and stacking discs makes the trees so sculptural and soft. Working in two strands gives great texture and a quick fabric for ornaments and bags so you finish fast and feel accomplished. These designs let me experiment with color, beads, and textures while still being straightforward enough to enjoy while watching a movie.

The Twelve Days of Christmas: Holiday Crochet Part 2 Pattern step 1 - construction progress The Twelve Days of Christmas: Holiday Crochet Part 2 Pattern step 2 - assembly progress The Twelve Days of Christmas: Holiday Crochet Part 2 Pattern step 3 - details and accessories The Twelve Days of Christmas: Holiday Crochet Part 2 Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how many customization options this collection gives you. You can change yarn colors to match your decor, or use one solid color for a modern look and hold a metallic strand for a tinsel effect.

Want a smaller or bigger version? Change your yarn weight and hook size: bulky yarn with a larger hook makes chunky ornaments and chunky tree discs, while thinner yarn and a smaller hook make delicate minis perfect for a garland.

I often mix in novelty yarns or a strand of sparkle to make an eye-catching ornament; try alternating two different colors every other round for a marled effect.

For trees, try different numbers of discs and vary the increase rounds to make dramatic ruffles or very flat layers; stacking fewer large discs makes a more architectural tree while many small discs give a fluffy look.

Garlands can be long and continuous or made in short segments and tied together; add tassels, pompoms, or felt shapes between beaded sections for playful detail.

For the gift bag, I sometimes add a fabric lining for a cleaner interior and to hide the plastic canvas edge; you can also add pockets inside or a zipper if you want a more finished purse-like item.

I encourage experimenting with textures: try alternating BLO rounds for ribbing or use raised stitches for scalloped edges on discs to create new silhouettes.

If youre gifting, try customizing a set (one ornament, one garland, and a bag) in matching colors for a cohesive, handmade present that looks intentional and curated.

I also recommend trying different closure methods for the ornaments: small metal toppers, decorative tassels, or a loop of yarn for hanging to suit your tree or display.

Finally, dont be afraid to remix techniques from different projects here: a tree disc pattern can become a large ornament top, or a garland technique can become a playful trim for a bag β€” have fun and make it yours!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Not checking fit of your crochet work over the foam ball before inserting it; fold the piece around the top of the ball and check fit, adjusting increases before inserting the ball. βœ— Forgetting to move your stitch marker each round leads to losing your place; always move the marker to the last stitch made in each round to keep track. βœ— Overstuffing or forcing the foam ball into a too-tight crocheted shell will distort the stitches; if it feels too tight, pull back a round or add an extra increase round so the shell slides over the ball comfortably. βœ— Skipping the steaming/blocking step for tree discs will result in flat, limp layers; use a steam iron or garment steamer to soften and shape discs for the desired drape and wave.

The Twelve Days of Christmas: Holiday Crochet Part 2 Pattern

This seasonal collection brings together easy-to-make crochet ornaments, wavy layered trees, festive garlands, and a reusable gift bag formula. Youll use leftover yarn, beads, and simple stitches to create home decor and gift-ready pieces that are cozy and cheerful. Clear step-by-step rounds and helpful assembly notes guide you through every project so you can make gorgeous holiday accents quickly. Perfect for stash-busting and giving handmade gifts.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for The Twelve Days of Christmas: Holiday Crochet Part 2 Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    4-ply worsted weight yarn (also called medium/worsted, #4) - assorted colors for ornaments and trees, small scraps of 7 different greens recommended for ombre tree effects
  • 02
    Two strands of 4-ply worsted held together for ornaments and gift bag fabric (use same or contrasting colors)
  • 03
    Metallic or novelty yarn for tinsel or garland accents - small amounts
  • 04
    Foam balls 6" diameter (or other sizes; adjust increases to fit your balls) - quantity as desired
  • 05
    Tree cones: cardboard cones (one per finished tree)
  • 06
    Plastic canvas or thick cardboard piece to insert in bag bottom (cut to size)
  • 07
    Assorted beads/pony beads for garlands (hundreds if threading many beads)
  • 08
    Optional: craft paint for painting cones

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size K/6.5mm (for ornament shells)
  • 02
    Crochet hook size I/5.5mm (for tree discs)
  • 03
    Crochet hook size H/5.0mm (for tree top)
  • 04
    Crochet hook size J/6mm (for bag and some garlands)
  • 05
    Crochet hook size L/8mm (for bead garland working thicker yarn)
  • 06
    Scissors
  • 07
    Yarn needle for sewing/securing ends
  • 08
    Stitch markers
  • 09
    Steam iron or garment steamer for blocking discs
  • 10
    Plastic canvas or stiff cardboard for bag bottom insert
  • 11
    Pony beads and bead bucket
  • 12
    Yarn needle (blunt) for threading beads and sewing
  • 13
    Glue gun or hot glue (optional for securing plastic canvas)
  • 14
    Pins for assembly

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” Crochet Ornaments: Foam Ball Covers :

Info :

Working in the CONTINUOUS Round. I do not join and chain, but continue to work in the next stitch. Use a stitch marker so you don’t lose your place. I held two strands together for these and used my K/6.5mm hook. Foam balls are labeled 6" in my example.

Starting/Increase :

Chain 2. Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.

Round 1 :

Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail.

Info :

After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work. Move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.

Round 2 :

(Make 1 sc in next stitch, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)

Round 3 :

(Make 1 sc in next stitch, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)

Round 4 :

(Make 1 sc in next 2 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)

Round 5 :

(Make 1 sc in next 3 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)

Round 6 :

(Make 1 sc in next 4 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36)

Round 7 :

(Make 1 sc in next 5 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (42)

Round 8 :

(Make 1 sc in next 6 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (48)

Round 9 :

(Make 1 sc in next 7 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (54)

Info :

When you get to this part you want your crochet work just a little larger than your ball so it will sit snug but not stretch tightly. Fold it around the top of your ball and see how it fits. It should look loose around the edges.

Round 10-17 :

sc in each stitch around (54)

Info :

After doing a few rounds you might want to check for size again. You can continue in the increase pattern above and make more increases or if you think it’s just way too large pull back a row.

Round 18 :

To go from 54 to 48: (Make 1 sc in next 7 stitches, make an inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around

Round 19 :

To go from 48 to 42: (Make 1 sc in next 6 stitches, make an inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around

Round 20 :

To go from 42 to 36: (Make 1 sc in next 5 stitches, make an inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around

Round 21 :

To go from 36 to 30: (Make 1 sc in next 4 stitches, make an inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around

Info :

Once I got here to 30 stitches around, I inserted my foam ball. If you are using balls like mine and they have a hole make sure you put the hole facing you. It might be a little tight – just stretch it and pop it in. You will have to do the rest of the decreases with the foam inserted. Pull out the stitches a little as you work into them.

Round 22 :

To go from 30 to 24: (Make 1 sc in next 3 stitches, make an inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around

Round 23 :

To go from 24 to 18: (Make 1 sc in next 2 stitches, make an inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around

Round 24 :

To go from 18 to 12: (Make 1 sc in next stitch, make an inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around

Round 25 :

make one sc in each stitch around (12) and leave a tail to weave opening shut. I use only one of my two tails to weave shut and then when you come back around tie the two together and hide tails with your needle under a few stitches.

Info :

This blue and teal ball is worked with the exact same pattern as above, but worked in the Back Loop Only (BLO) all the way around for a ridged texture.

β€” Trees: Discs and Layering :

Info :

Materials: For these trees I used 4-ply worsted weight yarn from my stash in multiple greens. I used my I/5.5mm hook for the discs except the topper of the tree where I used my H/5.0mm hook. I used cardboard cones for the core and steamed the discs to relax and shape them.

Start - Discs :

Decide chain number for how wide you want the disc to sit on your cone; I tried to stick with multiples of 5 for my discs. Chain the decided number and join to form a circle. Chain up 3 (counts as first dc) and double crochet around in each chain, join to top of chain 3 to complete the first round.

Round 1 :

Chain up 3 and double crochet around in each chain join to the top of the chain 3 and chain up 3 again (do this for each round).

Round 2 :

Chain up 3 and make 2 dc in each double crochet around. Join to the top of the chain 3 and chain up 3 again (do this for each round).

Round 3 :

Double crochet one double crochet in double crochet around (work straight without increases this round).

Round 4 :

Repeat Round 2 (increase round).

Round 5 :

Repeat Round 3 (work straight in double crochet).

Info :

You can decide now if you want to continue to do an increase round (like Round 2) or work straight a few rounds until you reach the length you want. Most of my discs had 5 rounds and then I did a final round of half double crochet. The increase rounds are what makes the discs wavy at the end and helps them drop down.

Alternate Disc Finish :

For the small tree I finished discs in a simple half double crochet; for the larger tree I did chain 3 between every 5 hdc (so it would be: (hdc in next 5, chain 5, hdc in next 5) repeat) for a different edge effect.

Assemble :

Steam your discs to make them soft and droopy; paint your cone if desired and then stack discs from largest to smallest on the cone. Use glue or seaming to secure each disc to the cone if you want them permanent. Steaming while the paint dried helped discs relax and lay better.

β€” Tree Top (cone tip) :

Start :

The top of the tree is made a little different. Starting with your smaller hook, chain 2. In the 2nd chain from the hook make 4 sc.

Round 1 :

In the 2nd chain from the hook make 4 sc (this is the same as the start above).

Round 2 :

Join and chain up 1 and make 1 sc in each stitch around. (4 sc)

Round 3 :

Join and chain up 1 and make 2 sc in the 1st sc and then sc in each of the rest of the stitches around. (5 sc)

Round 4 :

Join and chain up 1 and make a sc in each stitch around. (5)

Round 5 :

Join and chain up 1 and make 2 sc in the 1st sc and then sc in each of the rest of the stitches around. (6 sc)

Round 6 :

Join and chain up 1 and make a sc in each stitch around. (6 sc)

Round 7 :

Join and chain up 1 and make 2 sc in the 1st sc and then sc in each of the rest of the stitches around. (7 sc)

Round 8 :

Join and chain up 1 and make 2 sc in the 1st sc and then sc in each of the rest of the stitches around. (8 sc)

Round 9 :

Join and chain up 1 and make 2 sc in the 1st sc and then sc in each of the rest of the stitches around. (9 sc)

Round 10 :

Join and chain up 1 and make 2 sc in the 1st sc and then sc in each of the rest of the stitches around. (10 sc)

Round 11 :

Join and chain up 1 and make 2 sc in the 1st sc and then sc in each of the rest of the stitches around. (11 sc)

Round 12 :

Join and chain up 1 and make 2 sc in the 1st sc and then sc in each of the rest of the stitches around. (12 sc)

Round 13 :

Join. Chain up 3 and make 2 dc in each double crochet around. Join to the top of the chain 3 and chain up 3 again (do this for each round) (24 dc)

Round 14 :

Double crochet one double crochet in double crochet around. (24)

Round 15 :

Repeat Round 13 *you may decide you don’t want to increase again and just work straight up.

Round 16 :

Repeat Round 14 *repeat this row for the length you want.

Assemble :

Secure the top to the cone tip. You may add a small disc under the top to help it sit. Steam the top slightly if needed and sew or glue in place.

β€” Garlands :

Ideas :

String on some beads before you start and pull one up on the last round for ornaments. Add white fluffy yarn on the last round for "snow." Use some metallic yarn for "tinsel."

Garland #1 - Beaded Chain :

I grabbed green and red metallic yarn, a big bucket of pony beads, and my yarn needle; I held two strands together and threaded 250 pony beads onto both strands. I used my L/8mm hook. I chained 10 and pulled up a bead, chained 10, pulled up a bead and repeated all the way down for all beads.

Garland #2 - Stranded Strip :

I held two skeins together and used my L/8mm hook and worked simple back and forth rows. I started with a chain 5 and did 4 hdc in each row and worked until I ran out of yarn. After steaming and stretching the strip it became long and skinny and made a nice garland.

Garland #3 - Bead and Loop Danglies :

I grabbed leftover strands, used my J/6mm hook, started with a chain 10 and did a half double crochet back down/up the chain. Then I repeated: (chain 25, slip on 3 beads, hdc in the 3rd chain from the hook and in the next 13-15 chains)* to create dangly curls with beads threaded in.

Garland #4 - Simple Bead Chain Repeat :

I chained 20, slipped up a bead, and repeated until I had used most of my stash. I folded long pieces and knotted or twisted to keep it neat. This was an easy stash-buster.

β€” Gift Bag #2 (Formula) :

Info :

Gift Bag #2 is more of a "formula" than an exact pattern. It is a photo-heavy tutorial on how to make a custom-sized reusable gift bag in ANY size. I used two strands of 4-ply worsted held together and my J/6mm hook for a sturdy fabric. You will also need a bottom support piece (plastic canvas or thick cardboard).

Materials :

Any yarn you want (two strands of 4-ply worsted recommended). Plastic canvas or cardboard for bottom support. J/6mm hook to keep fabric stiff. Scissors and yarn needle for sewing.

Step 1 - Decide Measurements :

Decide the width (left to right with bag facing you), the depth (front to back), and the height. Your first piece of fabric will form the front, back and bottom of the bag.

Step 2 - Chain the Desired Width :

Chain the desired width. Note: your chain will grow by as much as Β½ an inch after you start crocheting into it. For example if you want your bag 10" wide start with a chain that measures about 9.5" then check after a few rows. I worked in half double crochet, two strands held together, did a chain 1 and turned after each row. Single crochet would also work.

Step 3 - Work the Main Piece :

You will crochet in rows back and forth to make a long piece of fabric that equals (bag height x 2) + depth of bottom + seam allowances. Example in pattern: to make a 12" high bag with 6" depth the example requires a first piece approx 30" high (adjust per your measurements and seams).

Step 4 - Make Side Piece :

The second piece of fabric will be worked in rows where the width equals the depth of the bag (e.g. 6" deep so work in 6" rows). Your starting chain should be about 5.5" if you want 6" finished width. The length of this piece equals the width of your bag plus depth margins to overlap to the bottom piece for sewing.

Step 5 - Insert Plastic Canvas :

Measure and cut plastic canvas or cardboard slightly smaller than your side/gusset piece so it will be hidden between the overlapping bottom layers. Smooth jagged edges and position it between layers (see photos). You can glue or tack it in place temporarily.

Step 6 - Stitching :

Using matching yarn start stitching the bottom layers together along all four sides (this is easiest before sewing up the sides). Make sure heights match and the canvas is centered. Pin pieces together evenly and stitch the sides after the bottom is secured.

Step 7 - Handles :

Make handles by creating strips or twisted braids; the author chose to make 6 strips (three for each side), pull them through and knot/braid and secure by pulling through three stitches on the opposite side and knotting. Finish and weave in ends.

Assemble :

After sewing, weave in ends and secure any loose edges. Add lining or reinforcements if desired and attach handles. The bag can be used as a reusable gift bag, tote or purse.

Assembly Instructions

  • Insert the foam ball into the crocheted shell at Round 30, making sure any hole in the foam is facing downward, then complete the decrease rounds with the foam in place and weave the final tail to close the opening.
  • Stack and glue or sew the steamed discs onto the painted cardboard cone from largest to smallest, checking fit as you go; steam discs after stacking to relax and shape them for a soft, draping tree.
  • For garlands threaded with beads, string beads onto your two-strand yarn before starting, then work chain segments (example: chain 10, pull up a bead, chain 10) and knot ends or join loops to create a continuous garland.
  • For the gift bag, insert plastic canvas or trimmed cardboard between the overlapping bottom layers to provide support, then stitch all four sides of the bottom together before sewing up the sides and attaching handles.
  • When assembling the bag, pin all pieces in place to ensure even seams, then sew the bottom seams first and the sides second; use a contrasting yarn for a decorative visible stitch if desired.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers to mark the end of each round when working in continuous rounds so you do not lose your place.
  • πŸ’‘Check fit frequently: fold your crochet shell around the foam ball or cone before closing decreases to ensure proper fit and avoid forcing pieces into place.
  • πŸ’‘Steam and block disc layers for the trees to relax fibers and shape the drape; steam about 1-2" away and do not touch your crochet while steaming.
  • πŸ’‘Weave in ends as you go when possible to avoid large finishing sessions at the end of projects and keep seams tidy.

These cozy holiday projects are designed to help you use up your stash and create beautiful, handmade decor with minimal fuss. Whether youre crocheting a chunky ornament, a sculptural ombre tree, a playful beaded garland, or a sturdy reusable gift bag, youll love how quickly these ideas come together. Keep experimenting with color, texture, and steaming for endless variations and festive charm. 🎁🧢

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size are the foam balls used for the ornaments?

The sample foam balls are labeled 6" diameter in the pattern; adjust the increases and rounds if you use different sized balls.

Can I use a single strand of yarn instead of two strands held together?

Yes, you can use a single strand but the fabric will be lighter and looser; to get the same bulk and coverage as the samples, use two strands of worsted weight held together and adjust hook size as needed.

Do I need a steam iron or can I skip steaming the tree discs?

Steaming is strongly recommended for the discs because it softens the yarn and helps the layers drape and wave; you can skip steaming but the discs will be stiffer and less sculptural.

What hook sizes should I use for the different projects?

Use K/6.5mm for the ornament shells, I/5.5mm for the tree discs, H/5.0mm for the tree topper, J/6mm for the gift bag, and L/8mm for heavy bead garlands as suggested in the pattern.