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The Twelve Days of Christmas: Grinch Inspired Amigurumi Pattern Amigurumi Pattern

The Twelve Days of Christmas: Grinch Inspired Amigurumi Pattern Amigurumi Pattern
4.0★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
1.3K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

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Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This The Twelve Days of Christmas: Grinch Inspired Amigurumi Pattern Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a Grinch-inspired amigurumi complete with articulated-looking limbs, shaped tummy and face, embroidered mouth, and optional Santa coat and hat. It includes detailed round-by-round instructions, eye pieces, and finishing tips so you can replicate the look exactly. The design focuses on shaping using increases and invisible decreases to get the classic Grinch silhouette.

The Twelve Days of Christmas: Grinch Inspired Amigurumi Pattern Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

You will make two legs that are joined, a sculpted torso, neck and head with marked cheek shaping, and separate arms and eyes. The pattern also shows how to crochet a simple coat and hat to dress your Grinch for the holidays.

Why You'll Love This The Twelve Days of Christmas: Grinch Inspired Amigurumi Pattern Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it captures the Grinch's mischievous character with a few simple shaping tricks and surface embroidery. I enjoy how the tummy and cheek increases give so much personality with minimal extra pieces. The pattern is satisfying to stitch because the shaping is deliberate and forgiving, so you see the character emerge quickly. I also love that you can make the coat and hat to change the look — it makes gifting even more fun.

The Twelve Days of Christmas: Grinch Inspired Amigurumi Pattern Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress The Twelve Days of Christmas: Grinch Inspired Amigurumi Pattern Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress The Twelve Days of Christmas: Grinch Inspired Amigurumi Pattern Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories The Twelve Days of Christmas: Grinch Inspired Amigurumi Pattern Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love customizing this pattern to make playful variations; change yarn colors to create a softer pastel Grinch or a tiny green elf instead.

Try different yarn weights and hook sizes: using bulky yarn with a larger hook gives you a chunky cuddly version, while lighter weight yarn makes a delicate mini perfect for ornaments.

I often swap the safety eyes for embroidered pupils if the toy is for a very young child, which also lets me adjust the eye size and expression easily.

For a posable version, I sometimes insert thin floral wire into the arms and legs before stuffing to create bendable limbs that can hold poses.

Embroider different mouth shapes and eyebrow placements to change the personality — a wider smile or a pronounced scowl completely changes the character.

Make matching family sets by resizing: use the same pattern but change yarn weight and hook size to create a small, medium and large Grinch family.

Replace the Santa coat with a sweater or scarf: simply follow the coat layout but change length and trim style to make new clothing items.

Use faux fur or fluffy eyelash yarn for the hat trim and collar to give it a luxe, fuzzy look that photographs beautifully.

I also enjoy adding small accessories like a tiny sack, mini candy cane, or embroidered buttons to create a holiday scene around the Grinch.

When gifting, personalize the coat color and add a stitched name or year inside the coat so each Grinch becomes a cherished keepsake.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers during long spiral rounds can make you lose your place; place a marker at a visible stitch and move it each round to stay aligned. ✗ Understuffing the neck and head causes a floppy, unsupported head; stuff the neck very firmly and add stuffing gradually to the cheeks and head for proper shape. ✗ Failing to work in a continuous spiral when instructed will create visible seams and mismatched stitch counts; follow the spiral method or clearly note where you join each round. ✗ Forgetting to check your gauge with the recommended hook sizes causes size differences; use the specified hooks and yarn or adjust hook size and check finished measurements before proceeding. ✗ Not sewing parts in place before trimming tails can lead to unsecured seams; leave long tails for sewing and weave ends securely after assembly.

The Twelve Days of Christmas: Grinch Inspired Amigurumi Pattern Amigurumi Pattern

Make a charming Grinch-inspired amigurumi with step-by-step instructions for body, head, arms, eyes, legs, and a removable Santa coat and hat. This pattern guides you through shaping, invisible decreases, and simple surface embroidery so you can create a character with personality. Perfect as a handmade holiday gift or festive decor, the finished Grinch stands tall with fun facial details and a cozy coat.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for The Twelve Days of Christmas: Grinch Inspired Amigurumi Pattern Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Caron One-Pound in Limeade - you will need at least 1/2 of this large skein (~400 yds)
  • 02
    I Love This Yarn in Keylime (7oz/199g/355yds/325m) - suggested if Limeade not available
  • 03
    Scraps of white and black or dark green for the eyes and facial details
  • 04
    Red Heart in Cherry Red (for the coat and hat) - small amounts
  • 05
    Red Heart Hygge in Snow (white fluffy yarn) - small amounts for cuffs/trim
  • 06
    Optional faux fur pompom or fluff for hat trim

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size G/4mm (for main body work)
  • 02
    Crochet hook size I/5mm (used for coat and hat)
  • 03
    Safety eyes 20mm (2 pieces) - I used 20mm size
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 06
    Stitch markers
  • 07
    Polyester stuffing (fiberfill) - plenty for head and body
  • 08
    Optional: 2 foam rollers to insert into feet for bendable foot shape
  • 09
    Optional: Steam iron to relax and slightly stretch arms/fingers
  • 10
    Pins for assembly positioning

Progress Tracker

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— Legs :

Info :

You will make two legs but DO NOT FINISH OFF the second leg. They will get joined and then the body gets added. The only thing that gets sewed on are the arms.

Round 1 :

Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.

Round 2 :

Make 1 sc in each stitch around (6)

Round 3 :

2 sc in the first stitch, one sc in the rest of the stitches (7)

Round 4 :

Make 1 sc in each stitch around (7)

Round 5 :

2 sc in the first stitch, one sc in the rest of the stitches (8)

Round 6 :

Make 1 sc in each stitch around (8)

Round 7 :

2 sc in the first stitch, one sc in the rest of the stitches (9)

Round 8 :

Make 1 sc in each stitch around (9)

Round 9 :

(Make 1 sc in next 2 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (12)

Round 10 :

(Make 1 sc in next 3 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (15)

Round 11 :

(Make 1 sc in next 4 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)

Round 12 :

(Make 1 sc in next 2 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)

Round 13-17 :

5 rounds: Make 1 sc in each stitch around (24) – if working in the spiral that is 120 stitches

Round 18 :

(Make 1 sc in next 2 stitches, make an inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)

Round 19-20 :

2 rounds: Make 1 sc in each stitch around (18) – spiral count is 36 stitches

Info :

Start stuffing and stuff as needed.

Round 21 :

sc in the next 10 stitches, inv dec over the next 8 sc (this is 4 inv dec) (14)

Round 22 :

sc in the next 10 stitches, inv dec over the next 4 sc (this is 2 inv dec) *these two decrease stitches are in the decrease stitches from the row before. (12) *lightly stuff foot

Round 23 :

sc in the next 8 stitches, inv dec 2 over the next 4sc (10)

Round 24 :

inv dec, sc in the next 6, inv dec (8)

Round 25-26 :

Make 1 sc in each stitch around (8) *note: if you are choosing to use foam rollers to help the foot bend up, please check your opening here to make sure your roller will fit. Mine was an exact fit, but if you have a tighter gauge or are using different materials you may need to stop the decrease above at R23 and skip the last decrease.

Round 27 :

(2sc, sc 3)* (10)

Round 28 :

sc in each stitch around (10)

Round 28 :

(2sc, sc 4)* (12)

Round 29-30 :

sc in each stitch around (12)

Info :

*insert your roller here if you are using one as it may be difficult later. I just twisted around and it went in like a bolt.

Round 31-48 :

You are now going to work straight with no increases or decreases for 18 rows. That is 12 stitches around for 18 rows. For spiral crochet that is 216 stitches.

Round 49 :

(sc 3, inc sc) repeat around (15)

Round 50-59 :

You are now going to work straight with no increases or decreases for 10 rows. That is 15 stitches around for 10 rows. For spiral crochet that is 150 stitches. For only the first leg, finish with a slip stitch and cut yarn.

Info :

Stuff top of leg (quad) very well.

Info :

After finishing the second leg, do not fasten off, but figure out the shape of your legs/feet and how you want them to point/turn/stand on your finished piece and hold them together. You are going to be joining them with a chain 2. You want that chain 2 to be in the middle of the inside of the legs. On your second leg you may need to either work a few extra stitches or pull back a few to join them together. Please check the position of your legs and make sure they are how you like them before you join. You will slip stitch in the stitch that your chain 2 will start on the second leg, chain 2 and slip stitch on the other leg on the mirror side.

— Body :

Round 1 :

After joining the legs, you will crochet evenly around each leg and in the chain 2 – both on the front and back of the chain 2- that will give you 34 stitches – 15 on each leg and 4 in the chain 2 space (front and back)

Rounds 2-3 :

Sc around in each stitch. (34)(34)

Round 4 :

On this round you need to make 2 inc sc evenly. I chose to make one inc sc on each side of the body (36)

Info :

Okay, this is where you need to start shaping the tummy. You will be doing traditional amigurumi counts as far as increases go – 36 to 42, 42 to 48 etc, but you will be making all of the increases on the stomach side. The first step is to lay your work down and find the sides of the stomach.

Round 5 :

For this round you will be increasing from 36 to 42 stitches – that is 6 stitches – all on the front. For example, I had 14 stitches in between my markers -so, I added my increases like this: 2sc, sc, 2sc, sc, 2sc, sc 4, 2sc, sc, 2sc, sc, 2sc (42)

Round 6-7 :

sc in each stitch around (42)

Round 8 :

For this round you will be increasing from 42 to 48 stitches – that is 6 stitches – all on the front. Do the increases evenly like on Row 5.

Round 9-11 :

sc in each stitch around (48)

Round 12 :

For this round you will be increasing from 48 to 54 stitches – that is 6 increase stitches – all on the front like before.

Round 13-15 :

sc in each stitch around (54)

Info :

***now the tummy starts decreasing. You will do inv sc dec evenly on front just like you did the inc sc.

Round 16 :

For this round you will be decreasing from 54 to 48 stitches – that is 6 stitches – all on the front. Inv dec evenly like above.

Round 17-18 :

sc in each stitch around (48)

Round 19 :

For this round you will be decreasing from 48 to 42 stitches – that is 6 stitches – all on the front. Inv dec evenly like above. (42)

Round 20-21 :

sc in each stitch around (42)

Round 22 :

For this round you will be decreasing from 42 to 36 stitches – that is 6 stitches – all on the front. Inv dec evenly like above. (36)

Round 23 :

sc in each stitch around (36)

Info :

***on these next decreases you can go back to traditional decreases.

Round 24 :

(1 sc in next 4 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (30)

Round 25-28 :

sc in each stitch around (30)

Info :

Start stuffing and continue as needed.

Round 29 :

(1 sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (24)

Round 30-31 :

sc in each stitch around (24)

Round 32 :

(1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)

Round 33-34 :

sc in each stitch around (18)

Info :

Stuff, stuff, stuff *stuff GOOD!!! You need this neck to be firm

Round 35 :

(1 sc in next stitch, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12)

Round 36-39 :

sc in each stitch around (12)

Round 40 :

(1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)

Round 41 :

(1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)

Round 42 :

(1 sc in next 3 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)

Round 43 :

sc in each stitch around (30)

Round 44 :

(1 sc in next 4 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36)

Round 45 :

(1 sc in next 5 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (42)

Round 46 :

sc in each stitch around (42)

Round 47 :

*you will be doing 6 more increases on this round, but like above for the belly, you need to place all 6 of the increases on the front of the face. The cheeks specifically. Place 3 inc sc on each side of the face. You can see in this photo where I have marked where I placed the 3 inc sc on each side of the face. Each of my marked stitches in the photo gets 2sc in each one. You are gong from 42 to 48 stitches.

Round 48 :

sc in each stitch around (48)

Round 49 :

repeat round 47, but space them out more – like: sc, inc sc, sc, inc sc, sc, inc sc. You are going from 48 to 54 stitches.

Round 50-51 :

sc in each stitch around (54)

Round 52 :

Decreases start now, BUT these decreases need to go above the same place over the cheek where the increases are for shaping. So, find your increase stitches and make your decreases straight up from where those are. On R52 you go from 54 back to 48. The 6 inv dec stitches are on the cheeks only.

Round 53 :

sc in each stitch around (48)

Round 54 :

repeat round 52. You are going from 48 to 42 stitches.

Round 55 :

back to traditional decreases evenly spaced around. Go from 42 to 36: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, make an inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (36)

Round 56 :

(1 sc in next 4 stitches, make an inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (30)

Info :

*check your stuffing in the neck and make sure it is stuffed very well. It must hold up the head.

— Head :

Round 57-66 :

sc in each stitch around (30) *stuff the lower head and cheeks and shape. This part really makes a difference to the face so push the stuffing around and shape the face carefully.

Info :

*I choose to do my eyes and face and sew everything on before I sew the head shut so that I can make sure all my ends are tied and secure from the inside. If you also prefer to do this, skip down to the eyes pattern and finish the face and then come back up to here.

Round 67 :

(1 sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (24)

Round 68 :

(1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)

Round 69 :

(1 sc in next stitch, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12)

Round 70 :

sc in each stitch around. FO and leave a tail to sew closed.

Info :

*I made a short tassel and threaded the tails from the inside the head to the outside and tied them before sewing. *I made a short tassel and threaded the tails from the inside the head to the outside and tied them before sewing.

— Eyes :

Info :

Eyes: with white: Chain 2 and make 5 sc in the 2nd chain from the hook. Chain 1 and turn.

Round 1 :

Make 2sc in each stitch across (10) Chain 1 and turn.

Round 2 :

Make (1 sc, 2sc)* across (15) *on the last stitch change to a darker green or black color. Chain 1 and turn.

Round 3 :

In green or black, work down the flat side. Make 6 evenly spaced hdc across the flat side. Chain 1 and turn.

Round 4 :

Sc in the first 5 hdc, 2hdc in the last hdc, 2hdc in the next white stitch on the eye and then slip stitch in next. FO and leave a long tail to sew. This long tail is the outside, upper edge of the eye. If you use it to sew down the eye toward the nose you can use these tails to also embroider the nose. Use the photo below for placement.

Info :

I added safety eyes in the center of the white before I sewed the eyes down. I used black to make some frown lines and the mouth.

— Arms :

Info :

Arms: Leave a long tail because these arms start at the shoulder and work toward the fingers so you will use that long tail to sew the arm to the body.

Info :

Chain 2.

Round 1 :

Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.

Round 2 :

Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail.

Info :

After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. Now, pull that long tail back out the top of the arm for sewing later.

Round 3 :

(Make 1 sc in next stitch, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)

Round 4-5 :

sc in each stitch around (18)

Round 6 :

(1 sc in next stitch, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12)

Rounds 7-16 :

sc in each stitch around (12) *you can add a bit of stuffing to just the shoulder or not. I did not in my first example, but in my second one I did.

Round 17 :

(sc, sc, inv dec) * (9)

Rounds 18-27 :

sc in each stitch around (9)

Fingers :

Slip stitch in the next stitch, chain 6, sc back up this chain for 5 sc, slip stitch in the next 2 stitches, chain 6, sc back up the chain for 5 sc, slip stitch in the next 2 stitches, chain 7, sc 6 back up the chain, slip stitch in the next 2 stitches, chain 8, sc 7 back up the chain, slip stitch in the next 2 stitches, chain 6, sc back up the chain for 5 sc. FO and use the tail to sew the hand shut.

Info :

It is best to now take the arms to your steam iron and relax them a little with a bit of steam. This will soften and relax the arms and fingers. I also gently pulled on mine to lengthen them a little. Now, sew onto body.

— Coat and Hat :

Info :

NEW ADDITION: COAT AND HAT: This coat is super easy to make and also easy to modify to be shorter or longer. I used my size I/5mm hook for the coat and hat.

Coat - For the length :

Chain 51.

Row 1 :

In the 2nd chain from the hook, hdc and hdc in each chain across (50) Chain 1 and turn

Rows 2-5 :

are hdc across the chain for each row with a chain 1 and turn at the end of each.

Row 6 :

After row 5 you will chain 1 and turn, but then hdc only 25 hdc. Then, Chain 26 and turn.

Row 7 :

In the 2nd chain from the hook you will hdc and hdc in each chain/stitch back down for (50 hdc)

Rows 8-11 :

Repeat 2-5. Do NOT Finish off.

Info :

Now, fold the front pieces down and pin in place to make an arm hole. You need to know how many stitches to leave open for the arms. Your yarn should be in the perfect place on the coat to pick it back up and crochet or slip stitch through the two layers (front and back) to close up the side of the coat. Make about 20 sc or slip stitch up, but leave the arm hole open. SC about 14 sc around the arm hole – all around – front and back (see photo) – you will continue working in the round in a continuous spiral manner until the length of the coat arm is what you need. Mine was about 17 rounds. Finish with a slip stitch and cut yarn. You can weave in the end or work over it with your white. Do a few rows in white for the cuff.

Info :

Join red yarn on the other side and repeat as above to make the second arm. After you have both arms complete, attach your yarn to the front bottom side (see photo on next page) and sc evenly up the side, around the next and down the other side. Continue around the bottom and make 3sc in each corner on front.

Info :

Before doing round 2 in the white for the collar, mark the 10/11 neck stitches on each side. (See photo below) *you may have 10 or 11. If you have 11 with a center stitch in between the two sets of 10 on each side that is perfectly fine.

Round 2 :

After you have marked the neck/collar stitches, sc in each stitch around for round 2, but make hdc in all the stitches between the markers for the collar. Sc in all the rest of the stitches all the way back around to where you started round 2.

Round 3 :

Round 3 is a repeat of round 2. You will sc in sc and hdc in hdc. Finish and weave in the end.

Hat - Start :

Start in red with your size I/5mm hook. Chain 2. Single crochet 4 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.

Info :

Continue in the spiral with no join. Work over your starting tail for a few rounds and then pull to cinch up the opening. Leave this tail if you wish to use it to sew on your pompom. If you do, you may want to pull it out to the right side of your hat.

Round 2-3 :

sc in each stitch around (4) *only do round 2 for less of a point

Round 4 :

(1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (6)

Round 5-6 :

sc in each stitch around (6) *only do round 5 for less of a point

Round 7 :

(1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (8)

Round 8-9 :

sc in each stitch around (8) *only do round 8 for less of a point

Round 10 :

(1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (12)

Round 11 :

(1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (15)

Round 12 :

(1 sc in next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)

Round 13 :

(1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)

Round 14-15 :

sc in each stitch around (24)

Round 16 :

(1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)

Round 17+ :

sc in each stitch around for length. (30) I did 8 rounds on my example. You can do more or less depending on the fit you want.

Finishing :

Attach your white when you are done and sc around in white. After you get this first round in white finished, do another round of HDC in the FLO. This will help the edge of the hat lift up like a cuff. Hdc around again for one or two more rounds for the hat edge and then finish off. Weave in your end and attach your pompom.

Info :

Thank you for purchasing my pattern.

Assembly Instructions

  • Join the two legs by slip stitching the chain-2 bridge: slip stitch in the stitch that your chain 2 will start on the second leg, chain 2 and slip stitch on the other leg on the mirror side, then continue evenly crocheting around both legs and the chain-2 to form the body.
  • Attach arms to the shoulder by using the long tail left at the top of the arm; pin to the desired position on the upper body (shoulder area) and sew securely with whipstitch or mattress stitch; weave in ends on the inside.
  • Sew the eyes to the face using the long tail left from the eye piece; place the white eye pieces with safety eyes centered, then stitch them down toward the nose and use the same tails to embroider nose and facial accents.
  • Sew head closed after stuffing: stuff the head firmly (especially neck and cheeks) then use the tail to close the opening securely and sew the seam so it is neat and hidden inside.
  • Attach coat and hat after finishing the body: pin the coat in place and sew minimal stitches to keep it removable; attach pompoms and hat trim after final placement so they sit correctly.

Important Notes

  • 💡Work in a continuous spiral (do not join) for most pieces to avoid a visible seam; use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round and move it as you work.
  • 💡Stuff the neck and head firmly - under stuffing will result in a floppy head that cannot be posed securely.
  • 💡Pin parts in place and check symmetry before sewing to ensure the arms, eyes, and head are aligned correctly.
  • 💡Weave in ends as you go where possible to reduce finishing time and keep the interior tidy for long-lasting durability.

This Grinch-inspired amigurumi pattern brings holiday mischief to life with clear round-by-round shaping and fun finishing touches. Whether you make a classic lime Grinch or customize the colors, this character is a festive handmade treasure. Perfect for gifting, display, or practicing shaping techniques. 🧶🎄

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished Grinch measures approximately 26 inches tall when using the recommended yarn and hook sizes as used in the original sample.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will affect the final size and stitch counts; adjust your hook size accordingly and expect a different finished height and proportions.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of single crochet, increases, invisible decreases, and working in the round is recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 8-10 hours, though time may vary based on experience level, customization, and assembly work.

Are the coat and hat removable?

Yes, the coat and hat are made as separate pieces and can be placed on or removed; the coat is made to be slightly adjustable and pinned into place before sewing minimal stitches.