Make a sweet little puppy amigurumi with this friendly, easy-to-follow pattern. You will crochet each piece in spiral rows and assemble a cuddly pup with a muzzle, ears, paws and tail. The pattern uses UK terminology (dc = US sc) and includes clear placement notes so your puppy sits and hugs just right. Perfect for gifting or keeping as a tiny handmade companion.
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— Muzzle :
Info :
Make this first, you need it to help place the eyes when making the head.
Round 1 :
7ch, 2dc into 2nd ch from hook, dc in next 4 dc, 5 dc in last ch, working in the back loops of the chain, dc in each of the next 4 loops, 3dc in last loop (which is the back of the first chain you used, where you put the 2dc). You now have 18 dc around an oval. Slip stitch into the first dc of the row to join the ring.
Round 2 :
2dc in the same place as the joining stitch, dc in each of next 6 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 6 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, join as before. (22 stitches)
Round 3 :
In the back loops of each stitch only, dc into each dc, join (22)
Round 4 and 5 :
dc into each dc (22)
Info :
Pull thread through, leaving a long end to sew the muzzle onto the head. Put the nose, if you are using one, in the middle of one long side just above the edge formed by working into the back loops only. I found that the back of my nose-piece fitted better into this muzzle with the narrower part at the front - I usually use the wider part first for both eyes and noses, but that would distort this shape. Stuff – you may need to add stuffing once you have most of this sewn to the head.
— Head :
Round 1 :
6 dc into a magic ring.
Round 2 :
2dc into each dc (12 stitches)
Round 3 :
(1dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (18)
Round 4 :
(2 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (24)
Round 5 :
(3 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (30)
Round 6 :
(4 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (36)
Round 7 :
(5 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (42)
Round 8 :
(6 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (48)
Round 9-15 :
1dc in each dc to end (48) – that’s 6 rows without shaping.
Round 16 :
(6 dc, dec) x 6 (42)
Round 17 :
(5 dc, dec) x 6 (36)
Round 18 :
(4 dc, dec) x 6 (30)
Round 19 :
(3 dc, dec) x 6 (24)
Round 20 :
(2 dc, dec) x 6 (18)
Info :
Place the muzzle so that it sits between row 12 and about row 18 and sew it in place. Put the safety eyes in just above and either side of it as shown, between rows 11 and 12 about 5 stitches apart – but actually wherever looks good to you once you have placed the muzzle.
Round 21 :
(1 dc, dec) x 6 (12)
Info :
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing to the body – or you can leave the end on the body instead. No need to pull the stitches tight, but you can if you like.
— Ears :
Round 1 :
6 dc into a magic ring.
Round 2 :
2dc into each dc (12 stitches)
Round 3 :
(1dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (18)
Round 4 :
(2 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (24)
Round 5 :
(3 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (30)
Round 6 :
(4 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 3 – do not finish the row (33)
Info :
Leave a tail to sew on, make another one. Fold in half, so that the side you have done the half-row more on sits against the other side, and stitch through the places you would put your hook to sew together, so that the tops of the row still show and the ear is quite flat - see picture.
Info :
Stitch to the head between about the 6th and 8th rows, just about half way back - see pictures – with the seam facing forwards, but really put them wherever they look good to you.
— Body :
Round 1 :
6 dc into a magic ring.
Round 2 :
2dc into each dc (12)
Round 3 :
(1dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (18)
Round 4 :
(2 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (24)
Round 5 :
(3 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (30)
Round 6 :
(4 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (36)
Round 7-12 :
dc into each dc (36) – that’s 6 more rows straight.
Round 13 :
(4 dc, dec) x 6 (30)
Round 14 :
dc into each dc (30)
Round 15 :
(3 dc, dec) x 6 (24)
Round 16 :
dc into each dc (24)
Info :
Leave a long end, stuff and sew to the head around the 19th row (which also has 24 stitches, so you can sew stitch to stitch if you like). Don’t overstuff, or the base will be too round for your puppy to sit neatly without falling over all the time.
— Tail :
Round 1 :
3 dc into a magic ring.
Round 2 :
2dc in each dc (6 stitches).
Round 3-11 :
dc into each dc (6 stitches) – that’s 9 rows without shaping.
Info :
Leave an end for sewing. Flatten the very end where you finished, and stitch just that row to the back of the dog, around row 6 of the body.
— Front Paws :
Round 1 :
6 dc into a magic ring.
Round 2 :
(1dc, 2dc in next dc) x 3 (9)
Round 3-6 :
dc in each dc to end (9) – that’s 4 rows.
Info :
Leave an end for sewing, make a second one, stitch to body either side of where the nose droops between about rows 12 and 15, 5 stitches visible between them – or however you think is good. Mine is supposed to be holding his paws out for a hug.
— Back Paws :
Round 1 :
6 dc into a magic ring.
Round 2 :
(1dc, 2dc in next dc) x 3 (9)
Round 3-5 :
dc in each dc to end (9) – that’s 3 rows.
Info :
Leave an end for sewing, make a second one, stitch them to the body between rows 4 and 7 right at the bottom of the front with only one stitch or so showing between them – but maybe pin it first, to be sure your dog can ‘sit’ neatly – remember you have a tail at the back to place too.
Info :
Do fiddle with this pattern to make it more the way you want it. The tail could be longer or thicker. The back paws could be stitched to the bottom of the body so the dog is standing up, and you could use the tail as a third point for balance so it could manage to stand, if you make it stiff, sew it on solidly and perhaps make it shorter or longer – maybe try putting a pipe-cleaner or wire in it. The front paws could be longer, and/or less stuffed so they hang at the sides (under the head, as from shoulders, perhaps). Enjoy.
This Puppy Dog Friend is a tiny, lovable amigurumi perfect for gifting or displaying. The pattern is simple enough to make again and again, letting you play with colours and eye sizes to create new personalities. Enjoy the slow, satisfying process of stitching a small friend by hand. 🧶🐶
