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Peacock Amigurumi Pattern

Peacock Amigurumi Pattern
4.3β˜… Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
3.2K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journeyβ€”perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Peacock Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern teaches you how to crochet a peacock amigurumi with an open train of feathers, embroidered details and wired legs for stability. It includes written rounds, photo-steps and instructions for assembly so you can confidently finish the toy. The project mixes small amigurumi techniques with surface embroidery and light wirework for posable feet and a reinforced train.

Peacock Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

You will crochet the head and body in one piece, make the wings and beak separately, and create the train in two pieces which are embroidered and joined. The pattern includes clear photos for tricky steps like attaching the train and shaping the legs.

Why You'll Love This Peacock Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines classic amigurumi shaping with a dramatic, embroidered feather train that really makes the piece special. I enjoy the challenge of mixing crochet with simple wirework and embroidery β€” it brings each feather to life. The clear photo steps make the construction approachable while still allowing room for personal touches. I also love seeing how color choices transform the overall look, so it is a great pattern to customize and gift.

Peacock Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Peacock Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Peacock Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Peacock Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this peacock pattern with color choices β€” try pastel greens and blues for a softer, nursery-friendly version or bright jewel tones for a showy display piece.

To make a smaller or larger peacock simply change your yarn weight and hook size; bulky yarn with a larger hook gives a chunky version while thinner yarn makes a dainty mini.

I often replace the wire legs with felted or stuffed simple legs if I want a child-safe toy without metal; you can also use pipe cleaners wrapped in yarn for a softer alternative.

For a glam look, add tiny sequins or metallic embroidery thread into the feather eyes while keeping the structure the same β€” just tack them on with a few secure stitches.

Try different eye embroidery colors: using contrasting blues, turquoises and golds creates a layered look; test placement on a swatch before committing to the whole train.

If you like posed toys, add extra wire to the neck for gentle posability, or skip the wire altogether for a floppy, snuggly companion.

I sometimes make a matching set of smaller peacocks as gifts by reducing the stitch count and using sport weight yarn so they fit on a shelf together.

Want a wall hanging? Sew the train onto a narrow fabric strip and hang it from a wooden dowel instead of attaching a body β€” this yields instant decor from the same crochet pieces.

Experiment with yarn textures: a smooth mercerized cotton gives crisp embroidery definition, while a wool blend adds a softer, painterly finish to the feathers.

When in doubt about embroidery placement, mark the spots with removable pins then embroider one feather as a sample to confirm the look before you complete the rest.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers during rounds with increases and decreases can create misaligned shaping; place a marker at the start of each round and re-count often to stay on track. βœ— Crocheting too loosely for amigurumi will cause stuffing to show through the stitches; use a smaller hook or tighten your tension to keep the fabric dense. βœ— Forgetting to stuff gradually results in lumps or misshapen areas; add stuffing incrementally as you shape the head and body, adjusting firmness as you go. βœ— Not securing wire ends properly can cause sharp edges or unstable legs; wrap remaining wire tightly around the leg and cut off any excess, using pliers to ensure ends are tucked and safe.

Peacock Amigurumi Pattern

Make a charming crocheted peacock with a detailed open train of feathers and embroidered eye motifs. This pattern guides you step-by-step through the body, head, wings, legs with wire, and the elaborate feather train so you can create a show-stopping handmade piece. Clear photos and assembly instructions help you complete a memorable gift or display piece.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Peacock Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    4-ply / Fingering or DK / light worsted yarn in Green (main train)
  • 02
    4-ply / Fingering or DK / light worsted yarn in Blue (body and head)
  • 03
    4-ply / Fingering or DK / light worsted yarn in Brown (wings and details)
  • 04
    4-ply / Fingering or DK / light worsted yarn in Orange and Ochre (wing and feather eye embroidery)
  • 05
    Turquoise or Aquamarine yarn for small embroidery details
  • 06
    A tiny bit of Beige or Gray for beak detail
  • 07
    Suggested yarn used in sample: Scheepjes Catona Parrot Green (241), Midnight (527), Sweet Orange (411), Ginger Gold (383), Tropic (253), Caramel (506) and Scheepjes Stone Washed Brown Agate (822) as brown

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2.5mm (Size B-1 or C-2 depending on tension)
  • 02
    Black and white embroidery floss
  • 03
    Fiberfill stuffing
  • 04
    Stitch markers
  • 05
    Yarn needle (preferably with bent tip)
  • 06
    Large-eyed sewing needle
  • 07
    0.8 to 1mm thick craft wire (for legs) and 60 cm / 24" craft wire for train reinforcement
  • 08
    Superglue
  • 09
    Flat pliers (optional, for shaping wire)
  • 10
    Sewing pins
  • 11
    Scissors

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” Body :

Round 1 :

Sc 6 in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

Inc 6 (12)

Round 3 :

[sc, inc]*6 (18)

Round 4 :

Sc, [inc, sc 2]*5, inc, sc (24)

Round 5 :

[sc 3, inc]*6 (30)

Round 6 :

Sc 2, [inc, sc 4]*5, inc, sc 2 (36)

Round 7 :

Ch 8 [img 1], sk 8 [img 2], sc 28 (36)

Info :

This creates an opening out of which you will later crochet the neck.

Round 8 :

Sc 8 in the back loops of the ch sts, sc 24 (36) [img 3]

Round 9 to 11 :

Sc 36 (36)

Round 12 :

Sc 2, [dec, sc 4]*5, dec, sc 2 (30)

Round 13 :

Sc 30 (30)

Round 14 :

[sc 3, dec]*6 (24)

Round 15 :

Sc 24 (24)

Info :

Start filling with fiberfill and continue stuffing as you go.

Round 16 :

Sc, [dec, sc 2]*5, dec, sc (18)

Round 17 :

Sc 18 (18)

Round 18 :

[sc, dec]*6 (12)

Round 19 :

Sc 12 (12)

Round 20 :

Dec 6 (6)

Info :

Fasten off and close the round. (p. 4 of "Amigurumi Lessons")

β€” Neck and head :

Info :

Crochet the neck out of the opening.

Round 1 :

Sc 18 (18) (Please see the detailed description with images below)

Info :

Join the blue yarn at the gap to the right of the first skipped stitch. [img 1] Sc in next 8 sts. [img 2] Sc in space between rnd 6 and 7 of the body. [img 3] Sc in the other side of the 8 chs. [img 4] Sc in the space you first joined the yarn in. [img 5 and 6]

Round 2 :

[sc 7, dec]*2 (16)

Round 3 :

[sc 2, dec]*4 (12)

Round 4 :

Sc 12 (12)

Info :

Fill with fiberfill and continue stuffing as you go.

Round 5 :

[sc, dec]*4 (8)

Round 6 to 8 :

Sc 8 (8)

Round 9 :

[sc, inc]*4 (12)

Round 10 :

Sc 12 (12)

Round 11 :

Dec 6 (6)

Info :

Fasten off and close the round.

β€” Beak :

Item Name (P1) :

Ch 2. Sc in 2nd ch from hook (1). Fasten off.

Info :

Pin the beak centered to the front of the head between the last two rounds. [img 1] Thread the yarn ends on a yarn needle and bring them through to the same space in between stitches on the back, one by one. [img 2] Tie the ends together and cut them short. Then pull them inside the body, using a hook. [img 3]

β€” Eyes embroidery :

Info :

Cut an approx. 70 cm/28" long piece of white embroidery floss and thread it on a large-eyed sewing needle. Insert the needle next to the beak and stitch through to the top of the head on the same side. Repeat this stitch two more times. [img 1 to 3]

Info :

Insert the needle at the same spot and stitch through to the back of the head on the same side. [img 4]

Info :

Now, make a parallel stitch, leaving a small space in between. This stitch is positioned further towards the back of the head. The needle exits at the same spot as in img 4. Repeat this stitch two more times. [img 5 to 7]

Info :

The stitches almost connect in the front now. Connect the stitches at the back as well with one stitch. [img 8] The needle exits at the other side of the beak from where you can embroider the other side the same way. [img 9]

Info :

Once you have embroidered the other side, hide the ends the same way you did with the beak. [img 10]

Info :

Cut a 30 cm/12" long black piece of embroidery floss and thread it on the large-eyed sewing needle. Make one long stitch between the white stitches. [img 11] Make the same stitch to create a bolder line. This time the needle exits at the center of the black stitch. [img 12]

Info :

Make two short vertical stitches through the center of the horizontal black stitch. [img 13 and 14] Hide the ends the same way you did previously. [img 15] See the result in img 16.

β€” Make the crest :

Info :

Cut a 10 cm/4" short piece of blue yarn. Thread it on a yarn needle and insert it vertically, centered at the back of the head. Pull the piece of yarn halfway through and remove the yarn needle. [img 1 and 2]

Info :

Make a double knot and cut the ends about 1 cm/0.4" short. [img 3 and 4] Untwist the yarn ends so that the separate fibers form a crest. [img 5]

β€” Wings :

Round 1 :

Sc 6 in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

Inc 6 (12)

Round 3 :

Sc 12 (12)

Round 4 :

[ch 7 (img 1), sc 6 (starting in 2nd ch) (img 2), press both sides together, sl st next st and corresponding st on the opposite side together]*6 [img 3 to 8]

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing.

Section :

Crochet the brown parts of the wings are crocheted in rows.

Info :

Crochet the left side: Ch 3, leaving a long tail for sewing.

R 1 :

Sc 2 (starting in 2nd ch from hook), ch 1, turn (2)

R 2 :

Inc 2, ch 1, turn (4)

R 3 :

Inc 1, sc 2, inc 1, ch 1, turn (6)

R 4 to 7 :

Sc 6, ch 1, turn (6)

R 8 :

Sc 2, [sk 1, sc 1]*2, ch 1, turn (4)

R 9 :

Sk 1, sc 3, ch 1, turn (3)

R 10 :

Sc 1, sk 1, sc 1, ch 1, turn (2)

R 11 :

Sc 2, ch 1, turn (2)

R 12 :

Sk 1, sc 1, ch 1, turn (1)

R 13 and 14 :

(2 rs): Sc 1, ch 1, turn (1)

R 15 :

Sc 1 (1)

Info :

Do not fasten off.

Info :

Now crochet all around the wing. Sc 14 in the side of the wing in between rows all the way to the top [img 1], sc 2 in the other side of the 2-ch-chain you began with [img 2], sc 14 in the other side of the wing in between rows down to the tip of the wing (30) [img 3 to 4]

Info :

Finish with a sl st in the first sc and an invisible finish. Weave in the yarn end.

Info :

Crochet the right side the same as the left side. Do not fasten off. Now crochet all around the wing, as you did with the left wing.

β€” Attach the wings :

Info :

Sew on the orange prange parts of the wings: Pin the orange parts of the wings on rounds 13 to 16 of the body. The feathers should slightly point upwards. Sew on the feathers along the base and weave in the yarn ends. [img 1 to 3]

Info :

Sew on the brown parts of the wings: Pin the brown parts of the wings on rounds 6 to 16. They should overlap with the orange parts and the brown tip should align with the upper orange feathers. Sew them on along the base of the top side. [img 4 to 6]

β€” Attach the legs with wire :

Info :

Cut a 50 cm /20" long piece of craft wire and insert it in between rounds 12 and 13 of the body with 5 stitches space in between. Both wire ends should be equally long. Bend them downwards. [img 1]

Info :

Measure 3 cm /1.2" from the belly, then bend the wire forward. This will be the leg. [img 2]

Info :

Measure 1 cm /0.4" from the bend and bend the wire backwards. This will be the outer toe. [img 3]

Info :

Bend the wire forward. [img 4] Bend the wire backwards at 1.5 cm /0.6", measured from the last bend. This creates the middle toe. [img 5]

Info :

Bend the wire forward [img 6] and backwards again at 1 cm /0.4". This shapes the inner toe. [img 7]

Info :

Now, bend the wire straight backwards, like an extension of the middle toe. Then bend it back forward at 1 cm /0.4", measured from the slight bend. This will be the back toe. [img 8]

Info :

Wrap the remaining wire tightly around the leg and cut off any excess. Bend the legs ever so slightly at half-length. [img 9]

Info :

Repeat these steps on the other side. [img 10 and 11]

β€” Train (front side) :

Info :

The train of feathers is crocheted in rows. You will crochet a front and a reverse side, which you will sew together after embroidering the front side. Try not to make the slip stitches too tight. Starting with row 2, you will work in the back loops only.

Start :

Ch 38, leaving a long yarn end for sewing.

R 1 :

Tr in 4th ch from hook, tr 4, sc 5, dc 5, sl st 5, hdc 5, sl st 10, ch 1, turn (35)

R 2 :

In BLO: Sl st 10, hdc 5, sl st 5, dc 5, sc 5, tr 5, ch 1, turn (35)

R 3 :

In BLO: [sl st 5, hdc 5]*2, sl st 15, ch 1, turn (35)

R 4 :

In BLO: Sl st 15, [hdc 5, sl st 5]*2, ch 3, turn (35)

R 5 :

In BLO: Tr 5, sc 5, dc 5, sl st 5, hdc 5, sl st 10, ch 1, turn (35)

R 6 :

In BLO: Sl st 10, hdc 5, sl st 5, dc 5, sc 5, tr 5, ch 1, turn (35)

R 7 :

In BLO: Sl st 5, dc 5, [sl st 5, hdc 5]*2, sl st 5, ch 1, turn (35)

R 8 :

In BLO: [sl st 5, hdc 5]*2, sl st 5, dc 5, sl st 5, ch 3, turn (35)

R 9 :

In BLO: Tr 5, sc 5, dc 5, sl st 5, hdc 5, sl st 10, ch 1, turn (35)

R 10 to 49 :

(40 rs): Repeat rows 2 to 9 x 5 times

R 50 :

Sl st 10, hdc 5, sl st 5, dc 5, sc 5, tr 5 (35) [img 1]

Info :

Do not fasten off.

β€” Train (reverse side) :

Start :

Ch 33, leaving a long end for sewing.

R 1 :

Tr in 4th ch from hook, tr 4, sc 5, dc 5, sl st 5, hdc 5, sl st 5, ch 1, turn (30)

R 2 :

In BLO: Sl st 5, hdc 5, sl st 5, dc 5, sc 5, tr 5, ch 1, turn (30)

R 3 :

In BLO: [sl st 5, hdc 5]*2, sl st 10, ch 1, turn (30)

R 4 :

In BLO: Sl st 10, [hdc 5, sl st 5]*2, ch 3, turn (30)

R 5 :

In BLO: Tr 5, sc 5, dc 5, sl st 5, hdc 5, sl st 5, ch 1, turn (30)

R 6 :

In BLO: Sl st 5, hdc 5, sl st 5, dc 5, sc 5, tr 5, ch 1, turn (30)

R 7 :

In BLO: Sl st 5, dc 5, [sl st 5, hdc 5]*2, ch 1, turn (30)

R 8 :

In BLO: [hdc 5, sl st 5]*2, dc 5, sl st 5, ch 3, turn (30)

R 9 :

In BLO: Tr 5, sc 5, dc 5, sl st 5, hdc 5, sl st 5, ch 1, turn (30)

R 10 to 49 :

(40 rs): Repeat rows 2 to 9 x 5 times

R 50 :

Sl st 5, hdc 5, sl st 5, dc 5, sc 5, tr 5 (30)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a long yarn end for sewing.

β€” Embroider the "eyes" on the front side of the train :

Info :

Cut a long piece of ochre yarn. You can join more yarn later. All yarn ends will be hidden by the reverse side of the train.

Instruction :

Embroider the feather's eyes on each of the hdc, dc and tr 'feathers'. Begin at the lower edge. Insert the needle between the 1st and 2nd hdc [img 1], then bring it under the 2nd and 3rd hdc on the opposite side of the 'feather'. [img 2]

Info :

Repeat this stitch two more times [img 3 and 4], then insert the needle centered above the 5th hdc and in between the 3rd and 4th hdc on the same side. [img 5]

Info :

Now, insert it centered above the 5th hdc again, this time exiting centered between the 3rd and 4th hdc. [img 6]

Info :

Insert the needle centered above the 5th hdc again and in between the 3rd and 4th hdc on the other side. [img 7] Repeat this stitch two more times. [img 8 and 9]

Info :

Now, bring the needle under the 2nd and 3rd hdc on this side. [img 10] Insert the needle in between the 1st and 2nd hdc on both sides. [img 11]

Info :

Insert the needle at the same spot again and bring it through to the center of the 5th hdc of the next 'feather'. [img 12] You can begin embroidering this eye from here. [img 13 to 15]

Info :

Repeat this with all hdc and dc 'feathers'. When you reach the top row of tr 'feathers', make 7 stitches on the 4th and 5th tr instead of 5. [img 16]

Info :

Cut a long piece of blue yarn and within the ochre outline, embroider 2 vertical stitches on the 2nd and 3rd hdc on each side (4 in total). [img 17 to 20]

Info :

Repeat this with all hdc, dc, and tr 'feathers'. When embroidering the top row of tr 'feathers', embroider 3 vertical stitches on the 2nd and 3rd tr on each side (6 in total) instead of 2 (4 in total).

Info :

Cut a turquoise or aquamarine piece of yarn and make a vertical stitch over the 2nd and 3rd hdc in between the ochre and blue stitches. [img 21]

Info :

Then make a horizontal stitch in between the 1st and 2nd hdc on the left side. The needle exits at the center. [img 22]

Info :

Now, make a short vertical stitch centered over the 2nd hdc stitches on both sides, centered between the blue stitches. [img 23]

Info :

Make a horizontal stitch in between the 1st and 2nd hdc on the right side. [img 24] Then make a vertical stitch over the 2nd and 3rd hdc in between the ochre and blue stitches on the right side. [img 25]

Info :

Make a horizontal stitch to connect the two vertical turquoise stitches. [img 26] Repeat this with all hdc, dc, and tr 'feathers'.

Info :

Tie the yarn ends together at the wrong side and cut them short.

β€” Sew the front and reverse side of the train together :

Info :

Lay the front and reverse sides of the train on top of each other with the wrong sides facing each other. Both sides should align. The top (or the tips of the top row feathers) that you crocheted to the front side later, and the first 5 slip stitches along the bottom side should peek out from under the reverse side. [img 1]

Info :

Pin the corners of the front and reverse sides of the train together with stitch markers. [img 2]

Info :

Sew the sides together by stitching together the corresponding stitches, using the long yarn ends. [img 3 to 6]

Info :

Leave the bottom sides open. Sew the top sides together by stitching the triple crochet and slip stitches along the edge of the reverse side together with the corresponding triple crochet and slip stitches of the front side. [img 7 to 15]

Info :

Hide the yarn ends inside.

β€” Reinforce the train with wire :

Info :

Cut a 60 cm/24" long piece of craft wire. You will use it to reinforce the center part of the train. Weave the wire through the reverse side of the train in between row 17 and 18, 21 and 22, 25 and 26, 29 and 30, and 33 and 34. [img 1]

Info :

Weave any remaining wire along the top and secure it. [img 2 to 5]

Info :

See result in img 6.

β€” Sew the train on the body :

Info :

Pin the train on round 6 of the body. You can slightly stretch the 'ribbing' of the front side of the train. There should be around 9 stitches space on the belly between both corners of the train. [img 1]

Info :

Pin the reverse side of the train in place. [img 2]

Info :

Sew the front of the train to the body, using the long yarn end and making small stitches. [img 3]

Info :

Once you have sewn on the front of the train, make a long stitch to the base of the wing from where you will sew on the reverse side of the train. [img 1]

Info :

Alternate between small stitches through the train and the body. [img 2 and 3] See result in img 4 to 6.

Info :

Apply a little glue to a wooden toothpick. Use it to style the crest in shape. Leave it to dry. [img 7] You can also apply a drop of glue to the base of the legs to stop them from moving so that your peacock can stand.

Info :

Your peacock is now complete! I hope you enjoyed crocheting him as much as I did.

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew the wings in place: Pin the orange wing feathers to rounds 13-16 and sew along the base; then pin and sew the brown wing parts so they overlap the orange feathers and align with the top orange tips.
  • Shape and attach the wired legs: Insert a 50 cm craft wire between rounds 12 and 13 with 5 stitches spacing, bend the wire to form toes as described, wrap remaining wire tightly around the leg and cut excess; repeat on the other side.
  • Attach and secure the train: Pin the train to round 6 of the body, sew the front side to the body with small stitches, then stitch the reverse side in place and weave in ends; use glue sparingly on the crest and leg bases if needed for stability.
  • Reinforce the train with wire: Weave a 60 cm craft wire through the reverse side between rows 17/18, 21/22, 25/26, 29/30 and 33/34, then secure and hide remaining wire along the top.
  • Finish facial details and beak: Sew the small crocheted beak to the front of the head between the last two rounds, bring the yarn ends through to the back, tie off and hide ends inside the body using a hook.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Work in continuous (seamless) spirals for the body and neck to avoid visible join lines and maintain smooth shaping.
  • πŸ’‘Crochet tightly for amigurumi to avoid stuffing showing through; if you crochet loosely, use a smaller hook to achieve a denser fabric.
  • πŸ’‘This amigurumi contains craft wire and small parts and is not suitable for children under 3; omit wire if the toy will be within reach of young children.
  • πŸ’‘Stuff gradually and evenly while shaping head and body to avoid lumps; add fiberfill in small increments and shape as you go.
  • πŸ’‘Pin parts (wings, train corners) before sewing to ensure correct positioning and symmetry before stitching permanently.

This Peacock Amigurumi is a delightful mix of amigurumi shaping and decorative embroidery that makes a lovely handmade gift or display piece. The dramatic open train and embroidered eyes give it character and charm, while the wired legs add stability and poseability. Have fun customizing colors and small details to make your own signature bird. 🧢✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The peacock's train will be about 27 cm (10.5") wide and the completed peacock measures approximately 13 cm (5") tall from feet to tip of center feather when made with the recommended yarn and 2.5 mm hook.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can change yarn weight, but this will affect the final size and tension; use an appropriate hook for your yarn and expect a different finished size.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and assumes you are comfortable with magic rings, increases/decreases, working in BLO, and basic embroidery techniques.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crafters will spend roughly 12-15 hours on this project because of the detailed train, embroidery and assembly steps, though it can vary with experience and customization.