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Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern

Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern
4.8★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.6K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🏡

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

About This Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern

This pattern creates lighted "granny" pumpkins in three sizes — large, medium, and small — that glow beautifully with battery fairy lights. The design uses simple granny-cluster rows worked flat, then joined into a round shape to form the pumpkin. Youll make stems, leaves, and curly vines to finish, plus optional mylar and lights for a soft amber glow.

Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Instructions include step-by-step photos and clear row-by-row directions for each size. Perfect for seasonal decor, table displays, or gift-giving with a handmade, cozy vibe.

Why You'll Love This Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it turns classic granny-cluster stitches into a lovely pumpkin silhouette that really glows when lit. I enjoy how quickly each pumpkin works up — theyre rewarding to make and assemble in an afternoon. The pattern lets me play with color and texture, and adding fairy lights makes each pumpkin feel magical and warm. Im always excited to gift these because friends tell me they brighten a shelf or centerpiece instantly.

Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern step 1 - construction progress Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize these pumpkins by swapping yarn colors for a fresh look.

I sometimes use variegated yarn for a mottled, vintage effect that hides stitch variation beautifully.

To make a chunky pumpkin, I use a bulky yarn and a larger hook — it works up fast and feels extra cozy.

For tiny keychain pumpkins, I use fingering or sport weight yarn with a smaller hook and shorten the rows slightly.

I often replace the battery fairy lights with a small LED tealight if I want a removable lighting option that doesnt require a long cord.

Try metallic or sparkly yarn for the inner rounds to make the light shimmer subtly through the stitches.

Switch stems to a wrapped cord or crocheted i-cord for a sturdier, more sculptural look if you make larger pumpkins.

Embroidered face details can turn the pumpkins into little jack-o-lanterns — just use safety precautions around lights and batteries.

I like to layer two leaves or add a small crocheted acorn next to the stem to create a fall vignette when displaying several pumpkins together.

Dont hesitate to experiment with yarn textures — cotton gives a crisp stitch definition while acrylic can be softer and more forgiving for beginners.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers during long row repeats can cause miscounts; use markers or tally each granny cluster to stay accurate. ✗ Forgetting to leave a long yarn tail at the end prevents neat joining; always leave the 14" tail for sewing and assembly. ✗ Stuffing too loosely makes the pumpkin collapse when the lights are inserted; stuff firmly but evenly and check shape as you go. ✗ Not checking turning chain counts changes the stitch pattern rhythm; count chains and stitches at the end of each row to ensure consistency.

Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern

Make charming lighted pumpkins in three sizes using simple granny-cluster stitches and a medium worsted yarn. This pattern guides you step-by-step to crochet the pumpkin shell, add a cozy stem and leaf, and tuck in a battery fairy light for a warm glow. Youll enjoy quick rounds and satisfying assembly as you create seasonal decor or thoughtful handmade gifts.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Caron One Pound (medium worsted/#4) - Cream - less than 45g (approx 83 yards) for each Large Pumpkin
  • 02
    Red Heart Super Saver (medium worsted/#4) - Gold - less than 45g (approx 83 yards) for each Large Pumpkin
  • 03
    Caron One Pound (medium worsted/#4) - Off White or Pale Green - less than 30g (approx 55 yards) for each Medium Pumpkin
  • 04
    Red Heart Super Saver (medium worsted/#4) - Gold or Cornmeal - less than 15g (approx 28 yards) for each Small Pumpkin
  • 05
    Odds-and-ends for stems, leaves, vines: Red Heart Super Saver in Coffee, Cafe Latte, Warm Brown, Dark Jade or Caron One Pound in Soft Sage

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size US H8/5.00mm
  • 02
    Yarn needle to weave in ends
  • 03
    Scissors to cut yarn
  • 04
    Pinch of polyester poly-fill for stuffing stems
  • 05
    Clear 6 mil mylar craft plastic (optional, highly recommended)
  • 06
    20-LED battery-operated fairy lights in warm white for each pumpkin (Large can support up to 50-LED)
  • 07
    CR2032 or appropriate replacement batteries (highly recommended)
  • 08
    Stitch markers (optional but helpful)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Terminology :

Info :

All instructions are in Standard/US terms. Abbreviations: ch chain. sc single crochet. sc2tog single crochet 2 together. sl st slip stitch. sk st skip stitch. hdc half double crochet. dc double crochet. FL front loop of stitch (the loop closest to you). BL back loop of stitch (the loop farthest away from you). [ ] work instructions within brackets as many times as directed across the row. ( ) work instructions within parentheses as many times as directed in the next st. Magic Circle: use to begin first round of a circular pattern; alternative to ch 2 and working into second chain from hook.

— How to Make a Magic Circle :

Info :

1. Form the yarn into a circle. 2. Cross the top thread under the circle and pull through as though youre about to create a slip knot, but do not tighten the circle. 3. Insert hook into the loop. 4. While pinching the yarn tail and circle firmly together, ch 1. This chain helps secure the yarn, and does not count as a stitch. 5. Crochet the first rows stitches (ex: 6 sc) into the circle, being sure to crochet over both strands of yarn. 6. Pinch the yarn tail firmly between your thumb and forefinger, and pull tightly until circle closes. 7. Finished! The first round of the pattern is now complete with a clean, tight center.

— LARGE PUMPKIN :

Info :

Hook size: US H8/5.00mm. Yarn: Caron One Pound in Cream or Red Heart Super Saver in Gold. Turning chains do not count as stitches. Begin by working ch 14.

Row 1 :

sc in second chain from hook and in next st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st) (Fig. L-1)

Row 2 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters) (Fig. L-2)

Row 3 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters) (Fig. L-3)

Row 4 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters) (Fig. L-4)

Row 5 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters) (Fig. L-5)

Row 6 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they dont exist) — sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches) (Fig. L-6)

Row 7 :

— working in front loops only — sc in first 2 st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st)

Row 8 :

— working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Row 9 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 10 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Row 11 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 12 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they dont exist) — sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches) (Fig. L-7)

Row 13 :

— working in front loops only — sc in first 2 st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st)

Row 14 :

— working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Row 15 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 16 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Row 17 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 18 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they dont exist) — sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches)

Row 19 :

— working in front loops only — sc in first 2 st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st)

Row 20 :

— working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Row 21 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 22 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Row 23 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 24 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they dont exist) — sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches)

Row 25 :

— working in front loops only — sc in first 2 st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st)

Row 26 :

— working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Row 27 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 28 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Row 29 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 30 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they dont exist) — sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches)

Row 31 :

— working in front loops only — sc in first 2 st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st)

Row 32 :

— working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Row 33 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 34 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Row 35 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 36 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they dont exist) — sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches)

Info :

Finish off, leaving 14" yarn tail. (Fig. L-8 & L-9) See assembly instructions beginning on page 27.

— MEDIUM PUMPKIN :

Info :

Hook size: US H8/5.00mm. Yarn: Caron One Pound in Off White or Pale Green. Turning chains do not count as stitches. Begin by working ch 12.

Row 1 :

sc in second ch from hook and in next st, 2 sc, sc, 2 sc in next 3 st, sc, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (16 st) (Fig. M-1)

Row 2 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters) (Fig. M-2)

Row 3 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 3 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 3 granny clusters) (Fig. M-3)

Row 4 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters) (Fig. M-4)

Row 5 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they dont exist) — sc in first 2 st, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog 3 times, sc, sc2tog, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (11 stitches) (Fig. M-5)

Row 6 :

— working in back loops only — sc in next 2 st, 2 sc, sc, 2 sc in next 3 stitches, sc, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (16 st)

Row 7 :

— working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 8 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 3 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 3 granny clusters)

Row 9 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 10 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they dont exist) — sc in first 2 st, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog 3 times, sc, sc2tog, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (11 stitches) (Fig. M-6)

Info :

Finish off, leaving 14" yarn tail. (Fig. M-7) See assembly instructions beginning on page 27.

— SMALL PUMPKIN :

Info :

Hook size: US H8/5.00mm. Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver in Gold or Cornmeal. Turning chains do not count as stitches. Begin by working ch 8.

Row 1 :

sc in second chain from hook, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (11 st) (Fig. S-1)

Row 2 :

sc, ch 1, sk st, [3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters) (Fig. S-2)

Row 3 :

sc in first st, ch 1, hdc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 2 times, sk 3 st, hdc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc on each end + 2 granny clusters) (Fig. S-3)

Row 4 :

sc, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and hdc, [3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last hdc and ch-1 space, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters) (Fig. S-4)

Row 5 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they dont exist) — sc in first st, sc2tog 2 times, sc, sc2tog 2 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (7 stitches) (Fig. S-5)

Row 6 :

— working in back loops only — sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (11 st)

Row 7 :

sc, ch 1, sk st, [3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Row 8 :

sc in first st, ch 1, hdc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 2 times, sk 3 st, hdc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc on each end + 2 granny clusters)

Row 9 :

sc, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and hdc, [3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last hdc and ch-1 space, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Row 10 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they dont exist) — sc in first st, sc2tog 2 times, sc, sc2tog 2 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (7 stitches)

Row 11 :

— working in front loops only — sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (11 st)

Row 12 :

sc, ch 1, sk st, [3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Row 13 :

sc in first st, ch 1, hdc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 2 times, sk 3 st, hdc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc on each end + 2 granny clusters)

Row 14 :

sc in first st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and hdc, [3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last hdc and ch-1 space, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Row 15 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they dont exist) — sc in first st, sc2tog 2 times, sc, sc2tog 2 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (7 stitches)

Info :

Finish off, leaving 14" yarn tail. See assembly instructions beginning on page 27.

Assembly Instructions

  • Fold the rectangular worked panel so the granny clusters align into a tube shape and whipstitch the short ends together using the 14" yarn tail, matching granny cluster rows carefully.
  • Insert a small rectangle of clear 6 mil mylar craft plastic inside the pumpkin shell to diffuse the fairy lights, then place the 20-LED string inside before closing the final seam.
  • Sew the bottom seam closed using invisible whipstitch or mattress stitch, leaving a small opening to adjust stuffing and lights; add polyester filling as needed for shape.
  • Sew the stem to the top center of the pumpkin using matching yarn and a yarn needle, then attach the crocheted leaf and curly vine nearby, securing all ends and weaving in tails.
  • Tuck battery pack in under the mylar or into the bottom seam area so it sits flat and is accessible for battery replacement, then close the opening securely.

Important Notes

  • 💡Turning chains do not count as stitches throughout these patterns; follow counts and notes carefully for accurate shaping.
  • 💡Leave the long 14" tail at the end of each panel to make joining and seaming significantly easier and neater.
  • 💡Use clear mylar inside the pumpkin to help diffuse light and prevent holes or bright spots from showing through the stitchwork.
  • 💡Work decrease rows exactly as directed (do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches for decrease rows) to ensure correct pumpkin shaping.

These little lighted pumpkins add instant seasonal charm to any shelf, mantle, or table centerpiece. Theyre quick to make, customizable in color, and glow beautifully with battery fairy lights. Create an entire set in coordinating shades to make a warm handmade display this season. 🧶🕯️

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

Large Pumpkin: approximately 4-3/4" (12cm) wide by 5" (12.7cm) high with stem (about 4"/10cm without stem). Medium Pumpkin: approx 4" (10cm) wide by 4" (10cm) high including stem (about 3"/7.6cm without stem). Small Pumpkin: approx 3" (7.6cm) wide by 3-1/2" (9cm) high including stem (about 2"/5cm without stem).

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, but your finished size will change. The pattern is written for medium worsted (#4); switching to a thicker yarn and larger hook will produce chunkier pumpkins, while lighter yarn makes minis. Adjust yardage and hook accordingly.

Do I need to add lights and mylar?

Mylar is optional but recommended to diffuse the light. Battery fairy lights (20-LED recommended) are used to create the warm glow; larger pumpkins can support more LEDs if desired.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and assumes familiarity with basic stitches (sc, hdc, dc), working in front or back loops, and shaping with sc2tog and counting granny clusters.