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Doll ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern

Doll ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern
4.2★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
4.2K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Doll ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates Doll ZOEY, a 31 cm (approx. 12 1/4") boho-style crochet doll dressed in a layered dress, granny-square coat, beret and flat shoes. The design features a layered lace dress, small accessories and a wig construction for realistic hair. You will use cotton sport-weight yarn and work in spiral rounds, joined rounds and rows to build the doll and garments.

Doll ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern includes full materials, abbreviation lists and special stitch explanations to guide you. Detailed photos and tips for stuffing, finishing and assembly are included to help you achieve a polished result.

Why You'll Love This Doll ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it blends classic amigurumi construction with delicate clothing details that make the doll feel special. I enjoy designing layers and textures, and ZOEY's dress and granny-square coat give lots of opportunities for color play. The doll is compact but packs a lot of technique—perfect to expand your skills without a huge time commitment. I find it very satisfying to sew on the tiny shoes and see the character come to life with the wig and accessories.

Doll ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Doll ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Doll ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Doll ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how many ways you can customize this doll: change the coat colors, mix yarn weights or use variegated yarn for the granny squares to create unique looks.

I often make a mini version by using thinner yarn and a smaller hook for a keychain-sized doll that is perfect as a gift.

You can swap the cotton yarn for a softer acrylic for clothing so the dress and coat have more drape and a different hand feel.

I sometimes embroider a different expression or add tiny freckles to change the personality of the face; moving the eye placement slightly alters the look dramatically.

Try adding felt details, tiny crocheted props (a little bag, a tiny scarf) or a removable beret to give ZOEY more play options and character.

If you want a posable doll, consider inserting wire armatures in the arms and legs before closing and stuffing for gentle posing.

For a winter version, lengthen the coat and add a tiny crocheted scarf and mittens in complementary colors for seasonal charm.

I also like to experiment with hair: use looped crochet for curly hair or embroidery floss for sleek styles to create different personalities.

To make a sibling set, vary yarn weights and hook sizes to produce different sizes of the same doll for a coordinated group.

If you enjoy colorwork, try using a subtle gradient for the dress layers or a striped beret to highlight stitch details and add visual interest.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the stitch marker at the beginning of rounds can make it hard to track increases and decreases; place a marker at the start of each round and move it up every round to keep count. ✗ Overstuffing the head or body will distort the shaping and make seams awkward to close; stuff gradually in small amounts and shape as you go to maintain smooth curves. ✗ Using a different yarn type for body versus clothes without changing the hook size may result in pieces that do not fit; match yarn weight and adjust hook sizes to ensure clothing fits the doll. ✗ Forgetting to set safety eyes before closing the head can be difficult to correct later; place and fasten safety eyes between the indicated rounds and check spacing carefully before securing.

Doll ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern

Bring a boho-inspired companion to life with this detailed Doll ZOEY crochet pattern. You will work charming layers, tiny shoes, a granny-square coat and a sweet beret to dress your doll. The pattern includes full round-by-round instructions, materials list and special technique notes so you can crochet with confidence.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Doll ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Catania - Schachenmayr 100% Cotton (sport weight - 5 ply), 137 yards/50 grams (125 meters) - 12 different colors
  • 02
    Color A: 263 soft apricot - <1 ball (head, arms, feet, neck)
  • 03
    Color B: 105 natur - 2 balls (body, dress)
  • 04
    Color C: 164 jeans - <1 ball (leggings)
  • 05
    Color D: 247 sky - ~2 yds/2 m (leggings)
  • 06
    Color E: 172 silver - <1 ball (sole of shoe)
  • 07
    Color F: 110 black - 7 yds/6 m (shoe)
  • 08
    Color G: 251 magenta - <1 ball (coat, beanie, shoe)
  • 09
    Color H: 192 claret - <1 ball (coat, beanie)
  • 10
    Color K: 397 turquoise - <1 ball (coat, beanie, flower)
  • 11
    Color L: 226 lavender - <1 ball (coat, beanie, shoe lace)
  • 12
    Color M: 252 dark coral - 1 ball (coat, beanie)
  • 13
    Color N: 157 marone - 1 ball (wig)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook US 1½ (2.5 mm)
  • 02
    Crochet hook US 2½ (3.0 mm)
  • 03
    Crochet hook US 4 (3.5 mm)
  • 04
    Tapestry needles (usual and extra long)
  • 05
    Sewing needle
  • 06
    Sewing thread
  • 07
    Stitch marker
  • 08
    Scissors
  • 09
    Pins
  • 10
    Optional: wooden spoon/chopstick and clamping scissor to simplify the filling
  • 11
    Cardboard or plastic for the soles
  • 12
    3 tiny buttons for the coat and the flower
  • 13
    2 black safety eyes, Ø 6 mm
  • 14
    Fiberfill (polyester stuffing)
  • 15
    Strong thread resistant (dental floss) for thread jointing

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Round 1 :

Magic ring: 1 ch (does not count as st), 6 sc in magic ring (6 sts)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12 sts)

Round 3 :

*1 sc, 1 inc* crochet 6 times (18 sts)

Round 4 :

*1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc* crochet 6 times (24 sts)

Round 5 :

*3 sc, 1 inc* crochet 6 times (30 sts)

Round 6 :

*2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc* crochet 6 times (36 sts)

Round 7 :

*1 inc, 5 sc* crochet 6 times (42 sts)

Round 8 :

*5 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc* crochet 6 times (48 sts)

Round 9 :

*3 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc* crochet 6 times (54 sts)

Rounds 10-19 :

54 sc (10 rds) (54 sts)

Round 20 :

*3 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 4 sc* crochet 6 times (48 sts)

Round 21 :

*5 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc* crochet 6 times (42 sts)

Round 22 :

*1 inv-sc2tog, 5 sc* crochet 6 times (36 sts)

Round 23 :

*2 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 2 sc* crochet 6 times (30 sts)

Round 24 :

*3 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 6 times (24 sts)

Info :

Set the eyes in place first. Make sure the working yarn of the head is at the back. Put the eyes between round 12 and 13, 8 stitches apart. Poke the eye shafts through to the inside of the head and fasten with the washers that came with them.

Info :

Stuff the head.

Round 25 :

*1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc* crochet 6 time (18 sts)

Round 26 :

*7 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet twice (16 sts)

Info :

1 slst in next st, fasten off, leaving a 20"/50 cm tail, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st. Stuff the remaining head with fiberfill. Do not weave in end, use it for later to sew the head onto the body.

— Body :

Round 1 :

Magic ring: 1 ch (does not count as st), 8 sc in magic ring (8 sts)

Round 2 :

8 inc (16 sts)

Rounds 3-10 :

16 sc (8 rds) (16 sts)

Info :

1 slst in next st, FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st. The slst marks the center back of the body. Switch to yarn color B and work an uncounted rd of slst as follows: Insert hook in the NJ, yo, pull through lp, 1 slst in next st and all remaining sts. Work the last slst in the same st where the yarn was attached.

Round 11 :

(work in the sts of rd 10), (see photo 9) *3 sc, 1 inc* crochet 4 times (20 sts) - mark the beginning of the rd with a stitch marker (20 sts)

Round 12 :

20 sc (20 sts)

Round 13 :

1 sc, 1 inc, *4 sc, 1 inc* crochet 3 times, 3 sc (24 sts)

Round 14 :

24 sc (24 sts)

Round 15 :

*3 sc, 1 inc* crochet 6 times (30 sts)

Round 16 :

30 sc (30 sts)

Round 17 :

1 sc, 1 inc, *4 sc, 1 inc* crochet 5 times, 3 sc (36 sts)

Round 18 :

36 sc (36 sts)

Round 19 :

*1 inc, 5 sc* crochet 6 times (42 sts)

Round 20 :

42 sc (42 sts)

Round 21 :

5 sc, *1 inc, 6 sc* crochet 5 times, 1 inc, 1 sc (48 sts)

Rounds 22-23 :

48 sc (2 rds) (48 sts)

Round 24 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 23) 1 s-sc, 47 sc (48 sts)

Rounds 25-26 :

48 sc (2 rds) (48 sts)

Info :

Now work the first layer of the dress. Continue working in spiral rounds. See also crochet chart 1 on page 35. The chains are included in the stitch count at the end of each rd.

— Dress (Layer I) :

Layer I, Rd 1 :

(work all sts FLO) *1 sc, 1 ch, sk 2 sts, [1 inc, 1 ch, 1 inc], 1 ch, sk 2 sts* crochet 8 times (64 sts)

Layer I, Rd 2 :

*1 sc in next sc, 1 ch, [1 inc, 2 ch, 1 inc] in next ch1-sp, 1 ch* crochet 8 times (72 sts)

Layer I, Rd 3-4 :

*1 sc in next sc, 1 ch, [3 sc, 2 ch, 3 sc] in next ch2-sp, 1 ch* crochet 8 times (88 sts)

Layer I, Rd 5 :

*1 sc in next sc, 2 ch, [3 sc, 2 ch, 3 sc] in next ch2-sp, 2 ch* crochet 8 times (104 sts)

Layer I, Rd 6 :

*1 sc in next sc, 1 ch, [3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc] in next ch2-sp, 1 ch* crochet 8 times, FO, 1 NJ in next sc (88 sts)

— Dress (Layer II) :

Layer II, Rd 1 :

(work all sts FLO) *2 sc, 1 inc* crochet 16 times (64 sts)

Layer II, Rd 2-3 :

64 sc (64 sts)

Layer II, Rd 4 :

*3 sc, 1 inc* crochet 16 times (80 sts)

Layer II, Rd 5-10 :

80 sc (80 sts)

Layer II, Rd 11 :

(work all sts FLO) 80 slst (80 sts)

Layer II, Rd 12 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 10) *4 slst, 3 ch* crochet 20 times, FO, 1 NJ in 1st slst (80 sts)

Info :

Continue working on the body. Fasten on the same yarn in any st at the back of the body. Working in spiral rounds.

Round 27 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 26) 1 s-sc, 47 sc (48 sts)

Rounds 28-29 :

48 sc (2 rds) (48 sts)

Info :

Now work the third layer of the dress. Working in joined rounds. The beginning '1 sc-1 ch' and the ending slst of each rd count together as a double crochet stitch. See also crochet chart 2 on page 36.

Layer III, Rd 1 :

(work all sts FLO) 1 sc, 1 ch, 4 dc, [2 dc], *5 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 1 slst in 1st dc (56 sts)

Layer III, Rd 2 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 2 dc, [2 dc], *6 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 3 dc, 1 slst in 1st dc (64 sts)

Layer III, Rd 3 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 6 dc, [2 dc], *7 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 1 slst in 1st dc (72 sts)

Layer III, Rd 4 :

1 ch (does not count as st), *1 sc, 1 ch, sk 2 sts, [2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc], 1 ch, sk 2 sts* crochet 12 times (96 sts)

Layer III, Rd 5-6 :

*1 sc in next sc, 1 ch, [3 dc, 1 ch, 3 dc] in next ch1-sp, 1 ch* crochet 12 times (120 sts)

Layer III, Rd 7 :

*1 sc in next sc, [5 dc, 1 ch, 5 dc] in next ch1-sp* crochet 12 times, FO, 1 NJ in next sc (144 sts)

Info :

Continue working on the body. Fasten on the same yarn in any st at the back of the body. Working in spiral rounds.

Round 30 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 29) 1 s-sc, 47 sc (48 sts)

Rounds 31-32 :

48 sc (48 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 1 :

(work all sts FLO) 1 sc, 1 ch, 4 dc, [2 dc], *5 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 1 slst in 1st dc (56 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 2 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 1 dc, [2 dc], *6 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 4 dc, 1 slst in 1st dc (64 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 3 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 6 dc, [2 dc], *7 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 1 slst in 1st dc (72 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 4 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 4 dc, [2 dc], *8 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 3 dc, 1 slst in 1st dc (80 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 5 :

(work all sts FLO), 1 ch (does not count as st), 80 sc (80 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 6-13 :

80 sc (8 rds) (80 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 14 :

(work all sts FLO) 80 slst (80 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 15 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 13) *4 slst, 3 ch* crochet 20 times, FO, 1 NJ in 1st slst (80 sts)

Info :

Now work the fifth layer of the dress. Working in joined rounds. The beginning '1 sc-1 ch' and the ending slst of each rd count together as a double crochet stitch. Fasten on the yarn in any st at the back of the body.

Layer V, Rd 1 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 4, layer IV) 1 s-sc, 1 ch, 79 dc, 1 slst in 1st dc (80 sts)

Layer V, Rd 2-3 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 79 dc, 1 slst in 1st dc (80 sts)

Layer V, Rd 4 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 80 sc (80 sts)

Layer V, Rd 5-6 :

80 sc (2 rds) (80 sts)

Layer V, Rd 7 :

*9 sc, 1 inc* crochet 8 times (88 sts)

Layer V, Rd 8-9 :

88 sc (88 sts)

Layer V, Rd 10 :

(work all sts FLO) 88 slst (88 sts)

Layer V, Rd 11 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 9) *4 slst, 3 ch* crochet 22 times, FO, 1 NJ in 1st slst (88 sts)

Info :

Photo 10 shows the finished dress. Next crochet the collar. Make sure the neck of the body is pointing towards you. Work in the slip stitches BLO of the uncounted rd you worked after finishing rd 10 of the body. Mark a st at the front of the body, lining up with the lace. Attach the yarn color B in the st (BLO) to the left of the marked st. Work in rows. The turning chain does not count as st.

Collar, Rd 1 :

1 ch (does not count as st), *1 sc, 1 inc* crochet 7 times, 1 sc, 1 ch, turn work (22 sts)

Collar, Rd 2 :

sk 1 st, 2 sc, *1 inc, 2 sc* crochet 5 times, 1 inc, 1 sc, sk 1 st, 1 sc, ch, turn work (26 sts)

Collar, Rd 3 :

sk 1 st, 23 sc, sk 1 st, [3 sc], (work sidewise in the edge sts of rd 1) 1 sc, 1 slst in same st where last st of rd 1 was made, 1 slst in next "free" slst of the uncounted rd of the body, 1 slst in same st where first st of rd 1 was made, (work sidewise in the edge sts of rd 1-2) 2 sc, [1 sc, 1 slst] in next st, FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st (34 sts incl. slst)

— Arm/Sleeve (MAKE 2) :

Info :

The arm is worked in spiral rounds. Use the hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm and the yarn colors A and B. Stuff the arm as you go. Start with yarn color A.

Round 1 :

Magic ring: 1 ch (does not count as st), 6 sc in magic ring (6 sts)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12 sts)

Round 3 :

*1 sc, 1 inc* crochet 6 times (18 sts)

Rounds 4-6 :

18 sc (3 rds) (18 sts)

Round 7 :

16 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog (17 sts)

Round 8 :

7 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 7 sc, 1 CL-6 (16 sts)

Round 9 :

14 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog (15 sts)

Round 10 :

1 inv-sc2tog, 13 sc (14 sts)

Round 11 :

6 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 6 sc (13 sts)

Round 12 :

11 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog (12 sts)

Round 13 :

4 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 6 sc (11 sts)

Round 14 :

9 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog (10 sts)

Rounds 15-17 :

10 sc (3 rds) (10 sts)

Round 18 :

10 sc, 1 slst in next st, FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st (10 sts)

Info :

Switch to yarn color B to work the sleeve. Before starting the sleeve cut a length of 10 m (11 yds) of the yarn color B and keep to one side ready to work the cuff of the sleeve (or use the other yarn tail of the ball). Attach the yarn in any st of rd 18 that is at the back of the arm (opposite of the thumb).

Round 19 :

1 s-sc, 9 sc (10 sts)

Round 20 :

(work all sts BLO) 10 sc (10 sts)

Rounds 21-25 :

10 sc (5 rds) (10 sts)

Cuff, Rd 1 :

(work FLO in the sts of rd 19) *1 sc (the 1st sc of the rd will be a s-sc), 1 inc* crochet 5 times (15 sts)

Cuff, Rd 2-3 :

15 sc (15 sts)

Cuff, Rd 4 :

*2 sc, 1 inc* crochet 5 times (20 sts)

Cuff, Rd 5-6 :

20 sc (20 sts)

Cuff, Rd 7 :

*4 sc, 1 inc* crochet 4 times (24 sts)

Cuff, Rd 8-9 :

24 sc (24 sts)

Cuff, Rd 10 :

*5 sc, 1 inc* crochet 4 times (28 sts)

Cuff, Rd 11 :

28 sc (28 sts)

Cuff, Rd 12 :

(work all sts BLO), *4 slst, 3 ch* crochet 7 times (28 sts)

Cuff, Rd 13 :

(work FLO in the sts of rd 11) 28 slst, FO, 1 NJ in next st

Info :

Replace loop of yarn color B on the hook and finish the arm/sleeve.

Rounds 26-34 :

10 sc (9 rds) (10 sts)

Round 35 :

*3 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet twice (8 sts)

Round 36 :

*1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc* crochet twice (6 sts)

Info :

Stuff the remaining sleeve with fiberfill. Cut yarn, leaving a 12"/30 cm tail. Close the hole as described on page 6 (see also photo 32).

— Leg (MAKE 2) :

Info :

Work the leg in spiral rounds. Starting at sole, with hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm and yarn color A.

Round 1 :

(work all sc in BB of the chains) 6 ch, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 3 sc, [3 sc], bottom side of chain: 3 sc, 1 inc (12 sts)

Round 2 :

1 inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (18 sts)

Round 3 :

1 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, *1 inc, 1 sc* crochet 3 times, 3 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc (24 sts)

Round 4 :

1 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 2 inc (32 sts)

Round 5 :

1 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, *1 inc, 1 sc* crochet twice, *1 sc, 1 inc* crochet twice, 4 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc (42 sts)

Info :

When you start filling the legs (later!) the soles bulge out and so the doll is not able to stand alone. Try using cardboard or plastic in the bottom of the sole so that the doll will stand upright. Cut two pieces of cardboard or plastic in size of the sole (rd 1-6). Put aside for later. Stuff the leg as you go.

Rounds 6-10 :

42 sc (5 rds) (42 sts)

Round 11 :

12 sc, *1 inv-sc2tog, 2 sc* crochet 3 times, 1 inv-sc2tog, 16 sc (38 sts)

Round 12 :

8 sc, *1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc* crochet 3 times, *1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 3 times, 12 sc (32 sts)

Round 13 :

7 sc, 7 inv-sc2tog, 11 sc (25 sts)

Round 14 :

8 sc, 2 hdc, 1 hdc2tog, 1 hdc, 12 sc (24 sts)

Round 15 :

*4 sc, 1 sc2tog* crochet 4 times (20 sts)

Rounds 16-17 :

20 sc (2 rds) (20 sts)

Round 18 :

*3 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 4 times (16 sts)

Rounds 19-21 :

16 sc (3 rds) (16 sts)

Round 22 :

16 sc, 1 slst in next st, FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st (16 sts)

Info :

Now work the leggings. Switch to yarn color C. Before starting the leggings cut a length of 3 m (just over 3 yds) of the yarn color C and keep to one side ready to work the turn-up of the leggings (or use the other yarn tail of the ball). Fasten on the new yarn in the NJ of previous rd.

Round 23 :

(work all sts BLO) 16 sc (16 sts)

Rounds 24-30 :

16 sc (7 rds) (16 sts)

Turn-up, Rd 1 :

(work in the sts of rd 22 FLO) 1 s-sc, 15 sc (16 sts)

Turn-up, Rd 2 :

16 sc (16 sts)

Turn-up, Rd 3 :

16 sc, 1 slst, FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st (16 sts)

Turn-up, Rd 4 :

Switch to yarn color D. Attach the new yarn in any st at the back of the leg. 1 ch (count as 1st st), 15 sc, FO, 1 NJ in next st (16 sts)

Info :

Replace loop of yarn color C on the hook and finish the leggings.

Rounds 31-43 :

16 sc (13 rds) (16 sts)

Round 44 :

*2 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 4 times (12 sts)

Round 45 :

*1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 4 times (8 sts)

Info :

Cut yarn, leaving a 12"/30 cm tail. Stuff the remaining leg with fiberfill. Close the hole as described on page 6. Photo 19 shows the finished leg.

— Shoes (MAKE 2) :

Info :

Work the shoe in spiral rounds, in turned (joined) rounds and in rows. Starting at sole, with hook US 4 (3.5 mm) and the yarn color E. Start working in spiral rounds.

Rounds 1-5 :

repeat rd 1-5 of the leg (see page 16) (42 sts)

Round 6 :

42 sc, 1 slst in next st (42 sts)

Round 7 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 42 bpsc (for the 1st bpsc insert hook from back to front in same st where slst of previous rd was made), FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st (42 sts)

Info :

Based on the NJ of rd 7 count 9 sts to the right and place a marker in this 9th st. Switch to yarn color F. Working a joined round. Attach yarn in any st at the back of the heel. When you reach the marker place it 1 rd higher in same st.

Round 8 :

1 ch (count as st), 41 sc, FO, 1 NJ in 1st sc (the NJ and the underlying ch count together as a sc) (42 sts)

Info :

Switch to yarn color G and hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm. Attach yarn in marked st. Working in turned (joined) rounds. The turning ch does not count as st.

Round 9 :

1 ch (count as st), 41 sc, 1 slst in 1st sc (the slst and the underlying ch count together as a sc), 1 ch, turn work (42 sts)

Rounds 10-12 :

42 sc, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work (42 sts)

Info :

Now work in rows. The turning ch does not count as st. Note: If you have to crochet 'inv-sc2tog' on WS of the crochet piece, so insert hook through BL instead of FL of the next two stitches.

Row 1 :

13 sc, 1 ch, turn work (13 sts)

Row 2 :

6 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 5 sc, 1 ch, turn work (12 sts)

Row 3-4 :

12 sc, 1 ch, turn work (12 sts)

Row 5 :

1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 4 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc, 1 inc, 1 ch, turn work (12 sts)

Row 6 :

12 sc, 1 ch, turn work (12 sts)

Info :

Now work 2 rounds around the whole shoe. Work in spiral rounds.

Final Rd 1 :

11 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc each sidewise in the edge sts of row 5-1 (= 5 sc), 8 sc, 3 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc, 3 inv-sc2tog, 8 sc, 1 sc each sidewise in the edge sts of row 1-4 (= 4 sc), 1 inc sidewise in the edge sts of row 5 (47 sts)

Final Rd 2 :

12 slst, sk 2 sts, [3 dc, 1 ch, 3 dc], sk 2 sts, 23 slst, sk 2 sts, [3 dc, 1 ch, 3 dc], sk 2 sts, FO, 1 NJ in next st (49 sts incl. slst and ch)

Info :

Weave in all loose ends. Use the hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm and the yarn color L. Work approx. 75 chains and thread the shoelace. Tie the ends and make a loop. Photo 20 shows the finished shoes.

— Coat (MAKE 1) :

Info :

The coat consists of the body part and the two sleeves. For the coat you have to work 20 granny squares - three for each sleeve and 14 for the body part. You need also 6 triangles for the body part of the coat. After finishing the granny squares and the triangles you have to join them and work additional rows to complete the coat. For all parts of the coat use the hook US 1½ (2.5 mm).

Granny Square (make 20) :

Start with 1st yarn color of your choice. Magic ring: 1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc, 1 ch (sc and ch count together as 1st dc), 11 dc in magic ring, FO, 1 NJ in 1st dc. Switch to 2nd yarn color of your choice. Fasten on between any 2 dc.

Assembly Instructions

  • Set the safety eyes between rounds 12 and 13 of the head, spacing them 8 stitches apart, and fasten them with the washers before closing the head.
  • Stuff the head and body firmly but evenly; use a stuffing tool (wooden spoon or chopstick) to push stuffing into corners before closing each piece.
  • Sew the head to the body using the long yarn tail left when fastening off the head; align the neck opening with the top of the body and whipstitch securely.
  • Position arms on either side of the body at the arm openings (use the marked back center to align); sew through the sleeve and into the body for a secure attachment.
  • Attach legs to the bottom of the body with the soles flat; insert the cardboard or plastic into the sole before closing to help the doll stand, then sew legs firmly in place.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to mark the beginning of rounds, especially when working in spiral rounds and when shaping increases or decreases.
  • 💡Stuff gradually and consistently to maintain shape; overstuffing can distort curves while understuffing gives a floppy result.
  • 💡Pin all parts in place before sewing to ensure symmetry and correct positioning of head, arms and legs.
  • 💡Work with consistent tension and use the recommended hook sizes for each part to match the gauge given in the pattern.

This Doll ZOEY pattern is a labor of love designed to celebrate boho style with layered dresses and bright granny squares. Create a charming keepsake with detailed clothing and tiny accessories that make the doll unique and gift-ready. Whether you crochet one for yourself or as a present, ZOEY brings personality and handmade charm to any shelf or playtime. 🧶🧵

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 12 1/4" or 31 cm tall when using the recommended yarn and hook sizes.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, but changing yarn weight will affect the final size; use appropriate hook sizes and adjust stuffing and trim to maintain proportions.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so a general understanding of basic stitches, increases, decreases and joining motifs is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crafters take about 12-15 hours to complete the doll, depending on experience, attention to detail and whether you make the clothing and coat.