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Demodog Amigurumi Pattern

Demodog Amigurumi Pattern
4.6★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.5K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Whimsical Buddy

Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.

About This Demodog Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a small Demodog-style amigurumi with a wired star mouth, embroidered teeth and a tiny crocheted heart. You will learn how to construct flaps, make an internal armature with wire, and join the mouth to the head cleanly. The instructions include step-by-step rounds, finishing notes and assembly guidance so you can build this character with confidence.

Demodog Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Designed in fingering weight yarn for a compact finish, the pattern can be adapted to other yarns for different sizes. Clear photos and notes help you shape and position the parts for the best final look.

Why You'll Love This Demodog Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines traditional amigurumi shaping with a fun, structural challenge — the star-shaped mouth is so satisfying to shape and wire. I enjoy the little details, like the embroidered teeth and the tiny heart, which give the creature so much personality. Making the armature and hiding it inside the mouth always feels like a small magic trick as the project comes together. I hope you feel the same joy finishing this quirky, lovable monster as I do creating it.

Demodog Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Demodog Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Demodog Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Demodog Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize the colors on this pattern — try pastel shades for a friendlier look or contrast colors to make the mouth really pop.

If you want a larger Demodog, use a bulkier yarn and a larger hook; the entire pattern will scale up and the mouth becomes more dramatic.

For a smaller, keychain-friendly version, use thinner yarn and a smaller hook and leave out the wire armature, crocheting the flaps with more shaping.

I sometimes embroider different teeth styles or use safety felt pieces for the teeth to create softer, non-itchy insides.

Try making a little outfit or a tiny scarf to give the Demodog personality — a small crocheted collar or tiny felt props work really well.

I often swap the heart color or embroider initials on it to personalize the finished piece as a gift.

If you prefer a posable figure, add flexible wire in the arms and tail and wrap with tape before inserting to protect the yarn and stuffing.

Experiment with surface crochet or a reverse single crochet border around the flaps for a cleaner, defined edge.

You can also make a set of creatures in different colors and sizes to create a playful family set — they look great displayed together.

For extra durability, reinforce the body-to-head seam with a few additional hidden stitches at the back of the head; this helps especially if using heavier yarn.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the running stitch marker when joining the oval rounds leads to confusion on where the round starts; place a slst and add your running stitch marker as instructed to mark the new round start. ✗ Not stuffing the body firmly enough will make the figure unstable and the head top-heavy; stuff the body firmly so it forms a stable base before attaching the head. ✗ Pulling the yarn too tight while crocheting the flaps can distort their shape and prevent the armature from fitting; maintain consistent, slightly loose tension and shape the flaps gently around the wire. ✗ Forgetting to work away ends during the flap construction creates bulky spots; work away tails as you crochet the next three stitches to keep seams tidy and discreet. ✗ Ignoring the note about making the first flap increase fixes can create an unbalanced flap edge; follow the increase correction at the first flap so all subsequent flaps align properly.

Demodog Amigurumi Pattern

Make your own Demodog amigurumi with detailed, photo-backed instructions that guide you through every stitch. This charmingly creepy creature features a wired star-shaped mouth, embroidered teeth, and a tiny crochet heart—perfect as a display piece or a playful gift. The pattern uses fingering yarn and clear shaping steps so you can follow along confidently. Create a memorable, handmade monster with step-by-step support and helpful assembly tips.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Demodog Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Fingering weight yarn (4 ply) - Body: Katia Capri 82126 Kaki (used for main body; quantity sufficient for one small toy)
  • 02
    Fingering weight yarn (4 ply) - Mouth: Katia Capri 82056 Black (small amount for center)
  • 03
    Fingering weight yarn (4 ply) - Mouth: Scheepjes Catona 192 Scarlet (main mouth/flaps color)
  • 04
    Fingering weight yarn (4 ply) - Teeth: Katia Capri 82050 White (embroidery thread for teeth)
  • 05
    Fingering weight yarn (4 ply) - Heart: Katia Capri 82059 Red (small amount for heart)
  • 06
    Note: The designer used fingering 4 ply yarn for the full project; finished size is approximately 5 inch (13 cm) with mouth opened using fingering yarn.

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2.5 mm
  • 02
    Sewing needle
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Wire ±1 mm (18 or 19 Gauge)
  • 05
    Pliers (for cutting and bending wire)
  • 06
    Pins for positioning parts
  • 07
    Stitch markers and running stitch markers (scrap piece of yarn)
  • 08
    Fiber fill (polyester stuffing)
  • 09
    Tape for wrapping wire ends

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Mouth :

Round 1 :

B MR 5 (5)

Round 2 :

B (inc) x5 (10)

Round 3 :

B (1sc, inc) x5 (15)

Round 4 :

B (2sc, inc) x5 (20)

Round 5 :

B (3sc, inc) x5 (25)

Info :

Change color to scarlet

Round 6 :

S (4sc, inc) x5 (30)

Round 7 :

S (5sc, inc) x5 (35)

Round 8 :

S (6sc, inc) x5 (40)

Round 9 :

S 8sc, ch1, turn; 7sc, inc, ch1, turn; 8sc, inc, ch1, turn; 8sc, dec, ch1, turn; 7sc, dec, ch1, turn; 6sc, dec, ch1, turn; 5sc, dec, ch1, turn; 4sc, dec, ch1, turn; 3sc, dec, ch1, turn; 2sc, dec, ch1, turn; 1sc, dec, ch1, turn; dec. (12 rows)

Info :

FO, cut off yarn.

Info :

Repeat round 9 x4.

Info :

Start with new thread in next stitch in round 9 (slst, ch1 - start 1st stitch in the same stitch). Work away tail in the next 3 stitches as you go.

Info :

When you reach the last flap, don't cut the thread, ch1, turn, and 12 sc down the flap.

Info :

When you reach the starting point of the flap, sc into the last (a) and first (b) flap-stitch of round 9. These stitches will now contain 2 sc's, 1 for the flap, and 1 for the border.

Info :

NOTE! When you reach the next flap (the first flap you made in rnd 9), it will have only 12 stitches on the right side, first sc on the flap will be an inc to make 13 (c). The next 4 flaps will need no increases here.

Info :

Including the first stitch of rnd 9, you will have 13 stitches along the side of each flap (d). When you reach the top stitch (the point of the flap), sc 1 extra. So total of 3 stitches on top (rightside st. / middle st / leftside st.). Sc all around the flaps. (135 st. total) Finish off and work away thread.

— Teeth :

Info :

WHITE. Embroider teeth using white thread. They can be a bit messy, some short, some a little longer, but have them facing inward a bit. It doesn't matter if the backside looks messy, you won't see it when the head is finished.

— Head :

Round 1 :

MR 5 (5)

Round 2 :

(inc) x5 (10)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc) x5 (15)

Round 4 :

(2sc, inc) x5 (20)

Round 5 :

(3sc, inc) x5 (25)

Round 6 :

(4sc, inc) x5 (30)

Round 7 :

(5sc, inc) x5 (35)

Round 8 :

(6sc, inc) x5 (40)

Round 9 to 14 :

40 sc (40) 6 rounds

Round 15 :

8sc, ch1, turn; inc, 7sc, ch1, turn; inc, 8sc, ch1, turn; dec, 8sc, ch1, turn; dec, 7sc, ch1, turn; dec, 6sc, ch1, turn; dec, 5sc, ch1, turn; dec, 4sc, ch1, turn; dec, 3sc, ch1, turn; dec, 2sc, ch1, turn; dec, 1sc, ch1, turn; dec. (12 rows)

Info :

FO, cut off yarn. Repeat rnd 15 for each flap.

Info :

Start with new thread (slst, ch1) in next stitch in round 14. The first sc will be in the same stitch as the slst, ch1. Work away tail in the next 3 stitches as you go.

Info :

When you reach the last flap, don't cut the thread, ch1, turn and 12 sc down the flap. When you reach the starting point of the flap, sc into the last and first flap-stitch of round 14. These stitches will now contain 2 sc's, 1 for the flap, and 1 for the border.

Info :

Including this first stitch of rnd 14, you will have 13 stitches along the side of each flap. NOTE! When you reach the next flap (the first flap you made in rnd 14), it will have only 12 stitches on the right side; first sc on the flap will be an inc to fix this. The next 4 flaps will need no increases here.

Info :

When you reach the top stitch (the point of the flaps), sc 1 extra. So total of 3 stitches on top (rightside st. / middle st / leftside st.). Sc all around all remaining flaps. (135 st. total) Don't cut thread!

Info :

Using iron wire, make armature for flaps. You can use pliers to bend them into the star shape. Try to make the armature as similar to the mouth shape as possible. Twist the ends and wrap around with tape, to avoid pointy ends sticking out. To avoid breaking from bending, you can tape the bends in the wire. If it bends a lot, in time the wire might break from usage.

Info :

Now we start to sc all around the mouth, together with the head, and have the armature trapped inside. Continue with the thread of the head. Sandwich the armature between the head and the mouth.

Info :

1. Push the hook through the next head stitch - underneath the armature - through the corresponding mouth stitch. 2. Pull up yarn, now you have 2 loops on the hook. 3. Pull up yarn over the armature and 4. Finish the stitch.

Info :

When reaching the 3 top stitches of the 5 points of the flaps: inc, 3inc, inc. You should have 7 top stitches in total. Make sure the wire ends are inside the head. Continue this all around. (155 st. total)

Info :

Make sure to stuff the head before closing the last flap. Don't fill the flaps with fiberfill. Finish off. Cut off yarn and work away thread.

— Arms x2 :

Round 1 :

MR 8 (8)

Round 2 to 6 :

8sc (8) 5 rounds

Info :

FO, slst, work away yarn, don't fill up yet!

— Body :

Info :

KAKI. For the Body, we start with an oval shape. You will be going down one side of the chain and back around the other side.

Round 1 :

ch6, sc in 2nd ch. from the hook and work down the chain, 3sc, 3inc, now work on the other side of the chain, 3sc, inc (12). Make 1 slst into the 1st st. of the next round. Treat this slst as the new end of the round, and place your running stitch marker after this slst. The next stitch you crochet is the 1st st of the new round.

Round 2 :

3sc, (inc) x3, 3sc, (inc) x3 (18)

Round 3 :

3sc, (1sc, inc) x3, 3sc, (1sc, inc) x3 (24)

Round 4 to 6 :

24sc (24) 3 rounds

Round 7 :

3sc, (1sc, dec) x3, 12sc (21)

Round 8 :

3sc, (dec) x3, 12sc (18)

Round 9 :

8sc on 1st arm, continue with body, 2sc, (dec) x3, 2sc, 8sc on 2nd arm, continue with body, 3sc, dec, 3sc (30)

Info :

NOTE! To avoid a gap in the armpit, you can either sew the hole shut. Or after you finish stitching 8sc around the arm, you can do an extra stitch sewing the first stitch of the arm together with the last used stitch of the body again. In the next round, this stitch is to be ignored.

Round 10 :

(3sc, dec) x6 (24)

Round 11 :

(2sc, dec) x6 (18)

Round 12 :

(1sc, dec) x6 (12)

Info :

Slst, FO, Leave long tail. It may seem a little off just now, but when you start stuffing firmly, it'll get into shape. The big bulge is its booty. Add wire for the arms, bend the ends (to avoid poking out) and wrap the pointy ends with tape. Place it in the arms.

— Legs x2 :

Info :

KAKI. For the Legs we start with an oval shape. You will be going down one side of the chain and back around the other side.

Round 1 :

ch4, sc in 2nd ch. from the hook and work down the chain, 1sc, 3inc, now work on the other side of the chain, 1sc, inc, slst (8). Make 1 slst into the 1st st. of the next round. Treat this slst as the new end of the round, and place your running stitch marker after this slst. The next stitch you crochet is the 1st st of the new round.

Round 2 :

1sc, (inc) x3, 1sc, (inc) x3 (14)

Round 3 :

14sc (14)

Round 4 :

1sc, (dec) x3, 7sc (11)

Round 5 :

1sc, 3dec (single crochet 3 stitches in front loops together), 7sc (9)

Round 6 :

1sc, inc, 7sc (10)

Round 7 :

2sc, inc, 7sc (11)

Round 8 :

2sc, inc, 8sc (12)

Round 9 :

3sc, inc, 8sc (13)

Round 10 :

3sc, inc, 9sc (14)

Round 11 :

14sc (14)

Round 12 :

(dec) x7 (7)

Info :

Slst, FO, leave long tail for sewing. Stuff the feet firmly, legs very lightly. Sew shut. Sew legs 6 stitches apart (from bum). Counting from the last row of the leg, sew into 5 stitches of leg to attach to the body, also sew the inside of the leg of the 5th row to the body. Make sure the outside of the leg isn't stitched to the body and can still bulge. It's best to place the body on a flat surface and pin the legs first, to see if he can sit up properly.

— Tail :

Round 1 :

MR 4 (4)

Round 2 :

3sc, inc (5)

Round 3 :

4sc, inc (6)

Round 4 :

5sc, inc (7)

Round 5 :

6sc, inc (8)

Round 6 :

7sc, inc (9)

Round 7 :

8sc, inc (10)

Info :

Slst, FO, leave long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly. Place 10 pins, as to where the tail will be placed. (red pin is starting point.) Sew tail to body.

— Attaching body to head :

Info :

Place 12 pins in head, as to where the body will be placed. Red pin is starting point.

Info :

Use 3 stitches directly under flaps; in the middle / 3 stitches to the sides / 3 stitches for back of body. Now you can sew the body to the head.

Info :

I've designed the Demodog using Fingering weight yarn. Should you want to make him in a heavier weight yarn, you might want to sew a few extra stitches at the back of the head, to keep him from falling over, as his head will be heavier.

Info :

The body should be stuffed very firmly, to form a stable base for the head.

— Heart :

Round 1 :

MR 6 (6)

Round 2 :

(inc) x6 (12)

Round 3 :

12sc (12)

Info :

FO and work away yarn. Make another part just like the previous one by repeating rounds 1-3. Do not cut the yarn as we will continue using the yarn of the second part.

Round 4 :

Crochet the parts together, 12sc on part 1, and 11sc on part 2, we finish this round 1st earlier (23)

Round 5 :

24sc (24)

Round 6 :

(dec, 6sc) x3 (21)

Round 7 :

(dec, 5sc) x3 (18)

Round 8 :

(dec, 4sc) x3 (15)

Round 9 :

(dec, 3sc) x3 (12). Stuff firmly.

Round 10 :

(dec) x6 (6)

Info :

FO, sew shut. Have a few threads dangling from heart, different colors. As if resembling veins - it's a ripped out heart :)

Assembly Instructions

  • Sandwich the mouth armature between the head and the mouth, then sc through the head stitch, under the armature, and through the corresponding mouth stitch to trap the wire and join the pieces securely.
  • Place 12 pins to mark where the body will attach to the head; use the red pin as the starting point and sew using 3 stitches under the flaps, 3 stitches to each side and 3 stitches for the back of the body.
  • Sew legs to the body 6 stitches apart (measured from the bum), attaching through five stitches of the leg and sewing the inside of the 5th row to the body for secure placement.
  • Add wire armatures for the mouth flaps and for the arms: bend and tape the ends to avoid pointy bits, then place armature inside the mouth and stitch the head and mouth together trapping the wire.
  • Pin parts in place before sewing to ensure symmetry; stuff the body very firmly for a stable base and stuff the head before closing the last flap, but do not fill the flaps with fiberfill.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers and a running stitch marker to keep track of round starts and where to join oval shapes for consistent shaping.
  • 💡Stuff the body very firmly to create a stable base — insufficient stuffing may cause the figure to tip forward when the head is attached.
  • 💡When forming the mouth armature, twist and wrap the wire ends with tape to avoid sharp points and consider taping bends to reduce the chance of metal fatigue and breakage.
  • 💡Work away yarn tails during the next three stitches as you crochet flaps to keep the seams neat and reduce bulk when assembling parts.

This Demodog amigurumi is a playful, spooky project that adds character to any shelf or gift collection. The wired mouth and embroidered teeth give it a dramatic personality, while the tiny heart adds a touching contrast. Enjoy the process and celebrate your finished creature with pride — he makes a memorable handmade gift! 🧶❤️

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 5 inches (13 cm) tall with the mouth opened when using the recommended fingering weight yarn and 2.5 mm hook.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but this will affect final size and proportions; choose an appropriate hook and expect to adjust stuffing and possibly extra sewing stitches for stability.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate because it uses shaping, flat flap rows, wire armature and assembly techniques; basic amigurumi experience will be helpful for the best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though time may vary based on experience level, how carefully you form the wire armature and how detailed you are with embroidery and assembly.