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Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern

Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern
4.2★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
1.9K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a Death's Head Hawk Moth amigurumi with a skull mask, striped caterpillar body and a detachable wing suit. The design uses fine sport/baby weight cotton and features color changes, front/back loop stitches and small decorative embroidery. Detailed tutorials for invisible decreases, standing stitches and finishing techniques are included.

Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

You will learn to make large and small wings in layers, assemble a ribbed wing belt and sew a mini skull to finish the suit. Photos and step notes guide assembly and placement throughout.

Why You'll Love This Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it blends cute amigurumi shaping with clever, wearable details like the removable wing suit. I adore how the skull mask gives the moth so much character while still being friendly and whimsical. The layered wings are satisfying to construct and offer great opportunity for color play. I feel proud every time I assemble the wings and see the finished piece come to life — it is such a rewarding project.

Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this pattern to make many different moths and butterflies; you can change the color palette to create seasonal or character variants.

Try pastel shades for a spring-themed moth or deep jewel tones for a dramatic look; swapping the mustard and denim stripes for pink and mint gives a whole new personality.

To make a pocket-sized keychain, use thread-weight yarn and a 1.75 mm hook and reduce the eye size to tiny embroidered dots for safety.

Make the wings sturdier by adding a thin craft wire inside the seam or a small fabric stabilizer between layers so the wings can be posed.

I often add embroidered vein details or tiny crocheted accessories like a scarf or crown to give each moth a distinctive character.

For a toddler-safe toy, replace safety eyes with embroidered eyes and sew all parts extremely securely with multiple passes.

If you want a plush, large display piece, use a bulkier sport weight or DK yarn and larger hooks to scale up the pattern while keeping all stitch counts the same.

Change the wing motifs: on the yellow wing pieces try adding beads or French knots to mimic eye spots for added texture and sparkle.

Make a themed set by making matching mini moths in different colors and arranging them on a simple wall hanging or mobile for nursery decor.

Experiment with textured yarns like boucle for the body to give a fuzzy caterpillar appearance and use smooth cotton for crisp wing details.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers while working in a continuous spiral leads to losing the round start; place a marker at the first stitch of every round and move it each round. ✗ Changing colors without carrying yarn causes messy joins and loose ends; carry the yarn as instructed and secure color changes during the final step of the stitch. ✗ Stuffing too much or too little will distort shaping; stuff firmly but evenly, and add stuffing gradually to maintain smooth curves. ✗ Working too tight in textured rounds (blo/flo) makes it hard to insert your hook later; if you crochet tightly, use a slightly larger hook for those sections or keep tension looser to allow hook entry.

Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern

Make a charming Death's Head Hawk Moth amigurumi with this detailed crochet pattern. You will create a skull-faced moth with a striped caterpillar body and a removable wing suit — perfect as a whimsical toy or decorative piece. The pattern includes step-by-step rounds, tutorials for special techniques, color-change tips and assembly instructions so you can follow along with confidence.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Sport/Baby Weight Yarn size 2 - fine, 100% mercerized cotton, 50g / 125m (2oz / 137yd)
  • 02
    Gauge example: 10x10 cm (4x4 inch) = 26 sts x 36 rows
  • 03
    Yarn and Colors Must Have: A white 002 Cream - 10g
  • 04
    Yarn and Colors Must Have: B sand 003 Ecru - 10g
  • 05
    Yarn and Colors Must Have: C beige 007 Cigar - 10g
  • 06
    Yarn and Colors Must Have: D black 099 Anthracite - 10g
  • 07
    Yarn and Colors Must Have: E yellow 015 Mustard - 10g
  • 08
    Yarn and Colors Must Have: F blue 061 Denim - 5g
  • 09
    Scheepjes Catona suggested alternative colors: A white 130 Cream - 10g
  • 10
    Scheepjes Catona: B sand 505 Linen - 10g, C beige 254 Moon Rock - 10g, D black 110 Jet Black - 10g, E yellow 208 Yellow Gold - 10g, F blue 247 Bluebird - 5g

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2.25 mm (UK: 13) or 2.5 mm (US: C/2, UK: 12)
  • 02
    Alternative slightly larger hook if you crochet very tightly
  • 03
    2 black eyes (glass or safety eyes), Ø 7 mm (0.28 inch)
  • 04
    Soft stuffing (e.g., Polyfiber Fill)
  • 05
    Darning needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 06
    Pins for assembly and positioning
  • 07
    Stitch markers
  • 08
    Scissors

Progress Tracker

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— Head :

Info :

Make a magic loop from sand and work in a continuous spiral.

Round 01 :

sc 7 into magic loop (7)

Round 02 :

[inc] 7x (14)

Round 03 :

[sc 1, inc] 7x (21)

Round 04 :

sc 1, inc, [sc 2, inc] 6x, sc 1 (28)

Round 05 :

[sc 3, inc] 7x (35)

Round 06 :

sc 35

Round 07 :

sc 2, inc, [sc 4, inc] 6x, sc 2 (42)

Round 08-13 :

(6 rnds) sc 42

Round 14 :

sc 2, dec, [sc 4, dec] 6x, sc 2 (35)

Round 15 :

[dec, sc 3] 7x (28)

Info :

Place the eyes between rounds 12 and 13 with a distance of 8 sts between the eyes.

Round 16 :

sc 1, dec, [sc 2, dec] 6x, sc 1 (21)

Round 17 :

[dec, sc 1] 7x (14)

Info :

Slst 1 into the next stitch, cut the yarn and fasten off invisibly (→ Tutorial F). Stuff the head well.

— Body :

Info :

At the open end of the head find the stitch that is standing in the middle between the eyes (→ photo 01). Starting in this stitch count 8 sts (any direction) along the open end to find the stitch that is standing in the middle of the back side of the neck (→ photo 01).

Round 18 :

Join black with a standing slst (→ Tutorial E) into the indicated 8th stitch, slst 13 (14)

Round 19 :

[sc-blo 1, inc-blo] 7x (21)

Round 20 :

change to yellow (→ Tutorial B), cut black: [sc 2, inc] 3x, sc 1, change to blue,

Info :

TIP: Carry yellow here and throughout when changing to blue (→ photo 02). Don’t cut blue when changing back to yellow but leave it and pull the blue thread diagonally upwards when you reach the point to change to blue again one row above (→ photo 03+04).

Round 20a :

sc 1, inc, change to yellow, [sc 2, inc] 3x (28)

Round 21 :

sc 13, change to blue, sc 3, change to yellow, sc 12

Round 22 :

sc 13, change to blue, sc 3, change to yellow, sc 12

Round 23 :

change to black, sc 28

Round 24 :

change to yellow (cut black), sc 13, change to blue, sc 3, change to yellow, sc 12

Round 25 :

dec, sc 2, dec, sc 1, dec, sc 2, dec, change to blue, sc 3, change to yellow, [dec, sc 2] 3x (21)

Round 26 :

[sc 1, dec] 3x, change to blue, sc 1, dec, change to yellow, [sc 1, dec] 3x (14)

Round 27 :

change to black (cut blue and yellow), slst 14

Round 28 :

[sc-flo 1, inc-flo] 7x (21)

Info :

Slst 1, cut black and close rnd invisibly (= closing stitch → Tutorial F). Stuff the upper part of the body now.

Round 29 :

Join yellow with a standing sc into the closing st (→ Tutorial E). Place marker (= new beginning of following rnds), sc 1, inc, [sc 2, inc] 2x, change to blue (carry yellow here and throughout), sc 3, change to yellow, [inc, sc 2] 3x (27)

Round 30 :

sc 12, change to blue, sc 3, change to yellow, sc 12

Round 31 :

change to black, sc 27

Round 32 :

change to yellow (cut black), sc 12, change to blue, sc 3, change to yellow, sc 12

Round 33 :

[sc 2, dec] 3x, change to blue, sc 3, change to yellow, [dec, sc 2] 3x (21)

Round 34 :

change to black, [dec, sc 1] 7x (14)

Round 35 :

slst 14

Info :

Stuff the middle part of the body.

Round 36 :

change to yellow (cut black), [sc-flo 1, inc-flo] 3x, change to blue, sc-flo 3, change to yellow, [inc-flo, sc-flo 1] 2x, inc-flo (20)

Round 37 :

sc 9, change to blue, sc 3, change to yellow, sc 8

Round 38 :

[sc 1, dec] 3x, change to blue, sc 3, change to yellow, [dec, sc 1] 2x, dec (14)

Round 39 :

[dec] 3x, change to blue, sc3tog, change to yellow, [dec] 2x, sc 1 (7)

Info :

Stuff the lower body part, then cut the yarn. Close the remaining 7 stitches through the front loops (→ Tutorial G) and weave in the ends.

— Skull Mask :

Info :

Make a magic loop from white.

Round 01 :

sc 7 into magic loop (7)

Round 02 :

[inc] 7x (14)

Round 03 :

[sc 1, inc] 7x (21)

Round 04 :

sc 1, inc, [sc 2, inc] 6x, sc 1 (28)

Round 05 :

[sc 3, inc] 7x (35)

Round 06 :

sc 35

Round 07 :

sc 2, inc, [sc 4, inc] 6x, sc 2 (42)

Round 08 :

sc 13, inc 3x (45)

Round 09-13 :

(5 rnds) sc 45

Info :

After rnd 13, pull the hat straight onto the head.

Round 14 :

sc 15, slst 6, sc 3, slst 6, sc 15 (51)

Round 15 :

sc 15, ch 7, sk 6, dc 1, into the next stitch: °dc 1 + ch 2 + dc 1°, dc 1, ch 7, sk 6, sc 15 (51)

Round 16 :

sc 14, sk 1 (→ photo 08), sc 8 into ch7sp, sk 2, °sc 3° into ch2sp (→ photo 09), sk 2, sc 8 into ch7sp, sk 1, sc 14 (47)

Round 17 :

sc 14, sk 1, slst 7, into next st: °slst 1 + ch 1 + sc 1°, sc 1 into next st: °sc 1 + ch 1 + slst 1°, slst 7, sk 1, sc 14 (47)

Info :

Slst 1 into the next stitch, cut the yarn and fasten off invisibly (→ Tutorial F).

— Antennae (MAKE 2) :

Info :

Make a foundation chain of 4 ch from beige.

Round 01 :

Work into the bumps on the back of the chain, starting in the 2nd back bump (→ Tutorial C): sc 2, slst 1

Info :

Cut the yarn and fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew the antenna onto the skull hat. Sew the antennae onto the hat, between rnds 08 and 09, with a distance of 2 sts between the antennae (→ photo 11).

— Details :

Info :

With pink yarn, embroider CHEEKS onto the skull hat (→ photo 11). Embroider a bright spot onto each large wing using sand colored yarn. Add a black line right next to the bright spot. On the small wings embroider three black spots (→ photo 41).

— Wing Suit :

Info :

Each wing is made from 2 layers – PIECE 1 and PIECE 2 – assembled to become a left or a right wing.

PIECE 1 (MAKE 2) :

Info :

Note: The first stitch to work into at the beginning of a new row is the stitch at the base of the turning ch-4. On rows ending with tr stitches, the last stitch of a row is always worked into the top of the beginning/turning ch-4 of the previous row (this is the 4th ch counting from the bottom). Ch 4 at the beginning of a row count as one stitch. Ch 1 at the beginning of a row does not count as a stitch.

Round 01 :

With beige make a foundation chain of 15 ch (→ chart, page 11). Starting in the 5th ch from hook, work along the chain: °dc 2° into the 5th ch, dc 1, hdc 3, sc 3, slst 3, turn (13)

Round 02 :

ch 1, slst 3, sc 3, hdc 3, dc 2, °dc 2° into the next st, °dc 1 + tr 1° into the last st (= into top of the beginning ch-4 → photo 13+14), turn (15)

Round 03 :

ch 4, dc 1 into the st at the base of the turning ch-4 (→ photo 12), °dc 2° into the next st, dc 1, hdc 3, sc 3, slst 2, leave remaining sts unworked (→ photo 15), turn (14)

Round 04 :

ch 1, slst 3, sc 3, hdc 3, dc 2, °dc 2° into the next st, °dc 1 + tr 1° into last st, turn (15)

Round 05 :

ch 3, dc 1 into the st at the base of the turning ch-3, °dc 2° into the next st, dc 3, hdc 4, sc 6, along the remaining sts of row 02 (→ photo 16): hdc 1, sc 2, slst 1 (21)

Info :

Cut the yarn and fasten off. (→ photo 17)

Info :

Rotate, so that long side of the wing is up and the top side of the wing is on the left. Work into the ends of the rows along the long side (→ photo 18): Join black with a standing sc (→ Tutorial E) into the end of the first row (→ photo 18), °sc 2° into the same space, °sc 3° into the end of each of the next 4 rows. Cut the yarn, fasten off and weave in all ends. Make another piece the same way.

PIECE 2 (MAKE 2) :

Follow the instructions as given for PIECE 1 until the end of row 05. Cut the yarn and fasten off.

Info :

Turn the piece with the backside facing you. Rotate 90°, so that long side of the wing is up and the top side of the wing is on the right (→ photo 20). Work into the ends of the rows along the long side. Join black with a standing sc (→ Tutorial E) into the end of the first row (→ photo 20), °sc 2° into the same space, °sc 3° into the end of each of the next 4 rows. Cut the yarn, fasten off and weave in all ends. Make another piece the same way.

ASSEMBLING PIECE 1 AND 2 (TO MAKE ONE LARGE WING) :

LEFT WING: Hold PIECE 1 and PIECE 2 together, so that they lay flat on top of each other - PIECE 1 on top of PIECE 2. Make sure the right sides of both black rows are visible outside. Rotate 180°, so that the bottom side of the wing is up and the large top side is down, short side of the wing to the right (→ photo 22). Crochet the sts of the following rnd into the corresponding sts or spaces on both layers to connect them. On the bottom side of the wing, join beige with a standing sc (→ Tutorial E) into the first remaining loop of the foundation chain (→ photo 23). Along the bottom side of the wing: sc 10 along the remaining loops of the foundation chains.

Info :

Rotate 90°, along the long side into the black sts: sc 1, °sc 2°, sc 12, °sc 2° + ch 1°. Rotate 90°, along the top side of the wing: hdc 1 into the same space as the black sts (→ photo 24), sc 19, into the last st: °sc 1 + ch 1 + sc 1°. Rotate 90°, along the short side of the wing: sc 1 into the end of the row in the center (→ photo 25), sc 1 into the same spot as 1st stitch of the rnd (→ photo 25). Cut the yarn with a long rest and close invisibly into first st (= standing sc) → Tutorial F.

Info :

Make the RIGHT WING mirrored: Hold PIECE 1 and PIECE 2 together so that PIECE 2 is on top of PIECE 1, make sure the right sides of both black rows are visible outside and follow the same joining sequence on both layers to connect them. Cut yarn and weave in ends.

— Small Wings (MAKE 2) :

Info :

Each wing is made from 2 layers of PIECE 3 – assembled to become a left or a right wing. Note: The first stitch to work into at the beginning of a new row is the stitch at the base of the turning ch-3. On rows ending with dc stitches, the last stitch of a row is always worked into the top of the beginning/turning ch-3 of the previous row (this is the 3rd ch counting from the bottom). Ch 3 at the beginning of a row count as one stitch. Ch 1 at the beginning of a row does not count as a stitch.

PIECE 3 (MAKE 4) — Round 01 :

With yellow make a foundation chain of 10 ch. Starting in the 4th ch from hook, work along the chain: hdc 2, sc 3, slst 2, turn (8)

PIECE 3 — Round 02 :

ch 1, slst 2, sc 2, hdc 3, °hdc 1 + dc 1° into the last st (→ photo 30), turn (9)

PIECE 3 — Round 03 :

ch 3, hdc 1 into the st at the base of the turning ch-3 (→ photo 31), hdc 1, sc 2, slst 2, leave remaining sts unworked, turn (7)

PIECE 3 — Round 04 :

ch 1, slst 2, sc 2, hdc 2, °hdc 1 + dc 1° into the last st (→ photo 32) (8)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off and weave in the ends. Make 3 more C-pieces.

ASSEMBLING TWO PIECES (TO MAKE ONE SMALL WING) — LEFT WING :

Hold two wing pieces (PIECE 3) together, so that they lay flat on top of each other - rotate 180° so that the top side is down and the short side of the wing is on the right (→ photo 33). Crochet the sts of the following rnd into the corresponding sts or spaces on both layers to connect them.

Info :

On the bottom side of the wing work into the remaining loops of the foundation chain. Join yellow with a standing sc into the first stitch (→ photo 34), sc 6 along the bottom side, change to black (→ Tutorial B, photo 35). Rotate 90°. Along the long side of the wing, into the ends of the rows: °sc 1 + hdc 4° into the first row, skip the end of the second row, °hdc 2 + dc 2° into the end of the third row, °dc 3 + hdc 1 + sc 1° into the end of the last row, change to yellow (→ photo 36).

Info :

Rotate 90°, along the top side of the wing: sc 7, then into the remaining sts of row 03: dc 1, hdc 1, °sc 1 + ch 1 + sc 1° into the last st (→ photo 37), ch 1. Rotate 90°, slst 1 into first st to close the rnd. Cut the yarn with a long rest and fasten off.

Info :

Make another small wing and mirror for the right wing. Embroider the black spots and small bright spot using sand colored yarn as shown (→ photos 37–40, 41).

— Mini Skull :

Info :

The mini skull hides the point where the wings are joined to the belt on the back of the wing suit. Make a magic loop from sand.

Round 01 :

ch 3, into the loop: dc 4, ch 4, hdc 1, ch 1, hdc 1, ch 4, close rnd with a slst into 3rd beginning-ch

Round 02 :

sc 4, sc 5 into the ch4sp, into the ch1sp: °slst 1 + ch 2 + hdc 2 + ch 2 + slst 1°, sc 5 into the ch4sp (→ photo 42)

Info :

Cut the yarn with a long rest and close the rnd invisibly (→ Tutorial F).

— Wing Belt :

Info :

The wing belt – a crochet rectangle finished into a ring – is the part that the insect's wings will be attached to, to create a wing suit that can be pulled on and off, to turn a caterpillar into a butterfly. You'll work rows of slip stitches to build a very elastic and but also stable ribbed belt.

Round 01 :

With black make a foundation chain of 12 ch. Crochet along the chain, starting in 2nd ch from hook: slst-blo 11, turn (11)

Round 02-35 :

(34 rows) ch 1, slst-blo 11, turn

Info :

Do not fasten off! (→ photo 43). Ch 1, turn the rectangle into a ring by holding the first and last rows next to each other. Crochet together the remaining loops of the foundation chain at the bottom of the first row with the corresponding back loops of the stitches on the last row (→ photo 44 = seam). Slst the ends together stitch by stitch. Break yarn and fasten off. Weave in the ends on the inside of the belt.

— Assembling the Wing Suit :

01 MAKING TWO PAIRS OF WINGS :

Sew the top side of the small wing in front of the large wing. Their edges lay one above the other (→ photo 45+46). Weave in the ends and work the same way to make a second pair of wings.

02 SEWING THE WINGS ONTO THE BELT :

With the backside of the wings facing, sew one wing pair next to the seam of the belt (→ photo 47). Then, sew the second pair of wings onto the other side of the seam (→ photo 48).

03 ATTACH THE SKULL :

Cover the point where the wings join with the mini skull. Sew the skull onto the wings, inserting the needle around the posts of the stitches of the skull (→ photo 50).

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the head to the body by aligning the open end of the skull mask and the head opening, then sew securely around the neck opening using whipstitch and weave in ends.
  • Sew the antennae onto the skull hat between rounds 08 and 09 with a distance of 2 stitches between them, using the long tail left on the antennae.
  • Make two pairs of wings (large and small), stack the small wing on top of the large wing, align their edges and sew the top side of the small wing in front of the large wing so their edges lay one above the other.
  • Sew each pair of wings to the wing belt: with the backside of the wings facing, join one pair next to the belt seam and the second pair opposite the seam; weave in ends.
  • Cover the joint of the wings on the belt with the mini skull and sew it through the posts of the skull stitches to secure and hide joins.

Important Notes

  • 💡Work in a continuous spiral for most parts and mark the first stitch of each round to track the beginning and avoid counting mistakes.
  • 💡Stuff the amigurumi firmly for good shaping but add stuffing gradually to avoid lumps and breaking stitches.
  • 💡If you intend the toy for a child under the age of 3, substitute safety eyes with embroidered eyes and make sure all parts are tightly sewn on.
  • 💡Use stitch markers, especially during color changes and shaping rounds, to keep track of decreases and increases and ensure symmetry.

This Death's Head Hawk Moth amigurumi pattern gives you a tiny world of spooky-cute charm and clever construction. Make the striped caterpillar body, a skull mask and a removable wing suit that transforms the toy into a butterfly. Perfect for gifting or a cozy project on a quiet weekend — enjoy making your own moth companion! 🧶🧵

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished assembled moth (with wings) measures approximately 11 cm (4.3 inches) in height for the caterpillar/head piece; wingspan will vary depending on tension and yarn but will be proportionate to the sample photos.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but it will affect final size. If you choose thicker yarn, use a larger hook and expect a chunkier result; for smaller, thinner yarn use a smaller hook and adjust eye size accordingly.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate – you should be comfortable with single crochet, increases/decreases, working in continuous spirals, and simple color changes. Tutorials in the pattern cover invisible decreases and standing stitches to help.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete the project in 5-7 hours, though time will vary based on experience, whether you make all wings and details, and how much finishing/embroidery you add.