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Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern

Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern
4.3β˜… Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.8K Made This
βœ‚οΈ

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates Clarence, a playful peckish plant amigurumi with a posable vine and expressive mouth. You will crochet a pot, body, head halves, inner mouth, lips, fangs, petals, vines and leaves, then add stabiliser and wire for structure. Techniques include working in front/back loops, joining pieces, and adding pipe-cleaner reinforcement for poseable elements. The finished plant stands about 27cm tall when made in DK cotton with a 3mm hook.

Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Clear step-by-step rounds are provided for every piece, making following along straightforward for crocheters with basic experience. The sample uses Paintbox Cotton DK and a 3mm hook for a neat amigurumi finish.

Why You'll Love This Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it brings a lot of personality in a small project β€” the big mouth and cheeky smile are such a fun detail. I enjoyed designing the petals and vines so they can be posed with pipe cleaners, which gives it a playful, interactive quality. The combination of colour changes and simple shaping creates a surprisingly expressive character with straightforward stitches. I find the assembly especially satisfying as the pieces come together to form a lively, top-heavy plant that looks great perched on a shelf.

Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customise Clarence by changing colours; try pastel shades for a softer look or bright neons for a cartoonish plant.

You can change the size by swapping yarn weight and hook: use bulky yarn and a larger hook for a chunky version or fingering yarn for a tiny keychain friend.

Swap safety eyes for embroidered eyes to make a child-safe version without plastic parts.

Make the vines stiffer by using thicker wire instead of pipe cleaners, or add multiple wires for long stems.

I often add beads or a small balloon weight into the pot base for extra stability if my creation is top-heavy.

Try embroidering different facial expressions by moving the eyes and changing the mouth curve to create grumpy, surprised or sleepy Clarence variations.

For a seasonal twist, add small crochet accessories like a tiny hat or scarf to match holidays or gift recipients.

You can make a family of plants by changing petal numbers and leaf sizes to create siblings with different personalities.

I like to experiment with textured stitches on the pot to mimic different planter materials β€” try a bobble or basketweave stitch for variety.

Finally, mix and match yarn brands for subtle texture differences β€” a matte cotton body with a slightly shinier acrylic lip gives a charming contrast.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping the front loop/back loop instructions can flatten shaping and ruin the petal bend; follow FLO/BLO instructions exactly to keep the intended curve. βœ— Forgetting to insert pipe cleaners before closing tubes makes adding structure difficult later; always place and secure pipe cleaners in lips and vines before finishing the rounds. βœ— Not reinforcing the pot lip with stabiliser leads to a floppy brim; cut a strip of thick felt or foam to insert into the lip before folding and stitching. βœ— Overstuffing the head makes closing seams bulky and uneven; stuff gradually and check shape often, leaving space to flatten the roof of the mouth evenly. βœ— Skipping the suggestion to work third loop/back hump on the tongue chains will result in messy edges; use the third loop/back hump for neater chain edges as described.

Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern

Make a mischievous, pocket-sized peckish plant with this full crochet pattern. You will crochet a cuddly plant head, mouth, petals, leaves and pot with clear step-by-step rounds and photos. The design includes wire-stiffened vines and pipe-cleaner details for poseable fun β€” perfect as a quirky gift or shelf friend. Follow the detailed instructions to assemble every piece and finish with embroidered veins and wispy hair.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (100% Cotton, 50g, 125m/137yds)
  • 02
    Lilac - Tea Rose (443) - 1 ball
  • 03
    Purple - Jam (473) - 1/2 ball
  • 04
    Pink - Blush Pink (454) - Small amount for lips
  • 05
    Green - Spearmint Green (426) - 2 balls
  • 06
    White - Paper White (401) - Small amount for fangs and details
  • 07
    Light Brown - Soft Fudge (410) - 1 ball for pot
  • 08
    Dark Brown - Coffee Bean (411) - Small amount for soil

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 3mm
  • 02
    Pair of 10mm black safety eyes
  • 03
    16 long pipe cleaners or some strong wire
  • 04
    A piece of thick felt or foam fabric stabiliser (Pellon Flex-Foam recommended)
  • 05
    Toy stuffing (polyester filling)
  • 06
    Tapestry needle for sewing
  • 07
    Small amount of PVA glue or starch (optional, for wispy hair)
  • 08
    Thick drinking straw or knitting needle (optional, for shaping hair)
  • 09
    Scissors
  • 10
    Stitch markers and pins

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” Cozy Plant Pot :

Info :

Make 1 in light brown.

Round 1 :

start 7sc in a magic ring [7]

Round 2 :

inc in all 7 sts [14]

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [21]

Round 4 :

(2sc, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [28]

Round 5 :

(3sc, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [35]

Round 6 :

(4sc, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [42]

Round 7 :

(5sc, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [49]

Round 8 :

(6sc, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [56]

Round 9 :

(7sc, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [63]

Round 10 :

(8sc, inc in next st) repeat 6 times, 9sc [69]

Round 11 :

working in BLO, slst in all 69 sts [69]

Round 12 :

working into the same back loops and over the slip stitches, sc in all 69 sts [69] This creates a more defined, firmer round at the base of the pot!

Round 13 - 17 :

sc in all 69 sts - 5 rounds

Round 18 :

(22sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [72]

Round 19 - 22 :

sc in all 72 sts - 4 rounds

Round 23 :

(23sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [75]

Round 24 - 27 :

sc in all 75 sts - 4 rounds

Round 28 :

(24sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [78]

Round 29 - 32 :

sc in all 78 sts - 4 rounds

Info :

Next round starts the lip of the pot.

Round 33 :

working in FLO, (12sc, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [84]

Round 34 - 45 :

sc in all 84 sts - 12 rounds

Round 46 :

(12sc, inv dec) repeat 6 times [78]

Info :

Fold over the last 13 rounds down to Rnd 33 to form the lip of the pot.

Round 47 :

working in both loops of current round and free back loops from left over from Rnd 33, slst in all 78 sts to close the lip [78]

Info :

Fasten off, weave in the ends.

β€” Inner Mouth :

Info :

Make 1 in purple. Ch13, start 2nd ch from hook, work in a round, along both sides of the chain.

Round 1 :

3sc in next ch, 10sc, 3sc in last ch, carry on along the other side of the chain, 10sc, skip last ch [26]

Round 2 :

(inc in next 3 st, 10sc) repeat 2 times [32]

Round 3 :

(inc in next st, 1sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc, (inc in next st, 1sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc [38]

Round 4 :

(2sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, 10sc, (2sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, 10sc [44]

Round 5 :

(inc in next st, 3sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc, (inc in next st, 3sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc [50]

Round 6 :

(4sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, 10sc, (4sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, 10sc [56]

Round 7 :

(inc in next st, 5sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc, (inc in next st, 5sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc [62]

Round 8 :

(6sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, 10sc, (6sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, 10sc [68]

Round 9 :

(inc in next st, 7sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc, (inc in next st, 7sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc [74]

Round 10 :

(8sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, 10sc, (8sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, 10sc [80]

Round 11 :

(inc in next st, 9sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc, (inc in next st, 9sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc [86]

Round 12 - 13 :

sc in all 86 sts - 2 rounds

Round 14 :

3slst, 33sc, 10slst, 33sc, 7slst [86]

Info :

Fasten off, weave in the end. Note: the slip stitches will sit in the corners of the mouth when joining the pieces.

β€” Top of the Head :

Info :

Make 1 in lilac.

Round 1 :

start 6sc in a magic ring [6]

Round 2 :

inc in all 6 sts [12]

β€” Bottom of the Head + Joining the pieces :

Info :

Make 1 in lilac.

Round 1 :

start 6sc in a magic ring [6]

Round 2 - 12 :

work the same way as Top of the Head.

Round 13 - 15 :

sc in all 72 sts - 3 rounds

Info :

Next join in the inner mouth to the bottom of the head. Pick up the Inner mouth and place it under the bottom of the head, wrong sides together, lining up the middle of the slip stitched section with the start of next round.

Info :

Start joining the 2 pieces in middle of the slip stitch section from Rnd 14 of the Inner Mouth, working through both layers.

Round 16 :

work 5sc along the head + slip stitches of the mouth, 33sc along head + mouth, 5sc along the head + slip stitches, next pick up the top half of the head so it rests over the remaining half of the inner mouth, work 5sc along the head + slip stitches, 33sc along head + mouth, 5sc along the head + slip stitches [86]

Info :

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Info :

Now the head is joined together add in some safety eyes to the top half. Use the corners of the mouth as guides and add the eyes - count 5 sts away from the corner and 5 rounds up and place the eye there, poke a hole in the fabric with a knitting needle or a pencil first to make this easier.

β€” Lips :

Info :

Join pink yarn to the corner of the mouth.

Round 1 :

work in FLO, sc in all 86 sts [86]

Round 2 - 8 :

sc in all 86 sts - 7 rounds

Info :

Add a ring of wire or pipe cleaners, enclosing it in the tube with the next round. I like to double them up for strength.

Round 9 :

working in FLO + remaining free back loop of the mouth - sc in all 86 sts [86]

Info :

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Info :

Add stuffing to the top and bottom half of the head, keeping the roof of the mouth flat.

Info :

With the top of the head towards you, join lilac to the corner of the remaining free stitches of two halves of the head, and close the gap with a row of single crochet, working the stitches through both layers.

β€” Top Fangs :

Info :

Make 2 or more in white.

Round 1 :

start 6sc in a magic ring [6]

Round 2 :

sc in all 6 sts [6]

Round 3 :

(inc in next st, 2sc) repeat 2 times [8]

Round 4 :

sc in all 8 sts [8]

Round 5 :

(inc in next st, 3sc) repeat 2 times [10]

Info :

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing.

β€” Bottom Fangs :

Info :

Make 2 or more in white.

Round 1 :

start 6sc in a magic ring [6]

Round 2 :

sc in all 6 sts [6]

Round 3 :

(inc in next st, 2sc) repeat 2 times [8]

Info :

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing.

Info :

Sew the fangs to the inside seam of the lips in your preferred spot. On the sample the top fangs are sitting further apart than the bottom ones.

Info :

Press the corners of the mouth up into a cheeky smile and move on to making the body!

β€” Stem Petals :

Info :

Make 6 in green.

Round 1 :

start 6sc in a magic ring [6]

Round 2 - 3 :

sc in all 6 sts - 2 rounds

Round 4 :

(1sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [9]

Round 5 :

sc in all 9 sts [9]

Round 6 :

(2sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [12]

Round 7 :

sc in all 12 sts [12]

Round 8 :

(3sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [15]

Round 9 :

sc in all 15 sts [15]

Round 10 :

(4sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [18]

Round 11 :

sc in all 18 sts [18]

Round 12 :

(5sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [21]

Round 13 :

sc in all 21 sts [21]

Round 14 :

(6sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [24]

Round 15 :

sc in all 24 sts [24]

Round 16 :

do not stuff, fold the piece flat and work next sts through both layers, 12 sc [12]

Info :

Fasten off the first 5 petals. Do not fasten off the last petal, carry on to join them into the stem, trapping the leftover yarn tails as you work.

β€” Joining the Stem :

Info :

Carry on work from the 6th petal. Join all the petals together to make 1 round, make sure they are all facing right way up when joining, with the wrong side of Rnd 16 down.

Round 1 :

(bring next petal to the work, 12sc along the top) repeat 5 times, then work 12sc along the original (6th) petal [72]

Round 2 - 3 :

sc in all 72 sts - 2 rounds

Round 4 :

(5sc, inv dec, 5sc) repeat 6 times [66]

Round 5 - 6 :

sc in all 66 sts - 2 rounds

Round 7 :

(5sc, inv dec, 4sc) repeat 6 times [60]

Info :

Next group of rounds create a small bend in the stem. If you want the stem to point straight up instead of forward you can work Rnds 8 - 26 as single crochet rounds instead.

Round 8 :

30slst in back loops only (BLO), 30sc in both loops [60]

Round 9 :

30slst in BLO of the slip stitches, 30sc in both loops [60]

Round 10 :

30sc in free front loops (FLO) from both last 2 rounds, 30sc in both loops [60]

Round 11 :

30slst in BLO from Rnd 9 (behind the current round), 30sc in both loops [60]

Round 12 :

30slst in BLO of the slsts, 30sc in both loops [60]

Round 13 :

30sc in free stitches from Rnd 10, 30sc [60]

Info :

Notice how the stem now tilts forward a little!

Round 14 - 17 :

sc in all 60 sts - 4 rounds

Info :

Now lets add another bend.

Round 18 :

2sc, 26slst in BLO, 32sc in both loops [60]

Round 19 :

2sc, 26slst in BLO of the slsts, 32sc in both loops [60]

Round 20 :

2sc, 26sc in free FLO from last 2 rounds, then work in both loops: 2sc, inv dec, 12sc, inv dec, 12sc, inv dec [57]

Round 21 :

29sc, inv dec, 11sc, inv dec, 11sc, inv dec [54]

Round 22 - 26 :

sc in all 54 sts - 5 rounds

Round 27 :

slst in all 54 sts [54]

Info :

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

β€” Soil :

Info :

Join dark brown to any slip stitch from Rnd 27 of the stem.

Round 1 :

sc in all 54 sts [54]

Round 2 :

(8sc, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60]

Round 3 :

(9sc, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [66]

Round 4 :

(5sc, inc in next st, 5sc) repeat 6 times [72]

Round 5 :

(inc in next st, 1sc) repeat 6 times [78]

Info :

Next round joins the soil to the pot. Fold back the brim of the pot so that the slip stitch round is easy to get to. Work the next round through both loops of the soil and Rnd 47 (the slip stitch round) of the pot, pulling the yarn from below the pots slip stitches.

Round 6 :

slst in all 78 sts [78]

Info :

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

β€” Twirly Vines :

Info :

Make 3 in green.

Round 1 :

start 5sc in a magic ring [5]

Round 2 - 6 :

sc in all 5 sts - 5 rounds

Round 7 :

inc in next st, 4sc [6]

Round 8 - 12 :

sc in all 6 sts - 5 rounds

Round 13 :

inc in next st, 5sc [7]

Round 14 - 18 :

sc in all 7 sts - 5 rounds

Round 19 :

inc in next st, 6sc [8]

Round 20 - 24 :

sc in all 8 sts - 5 rounds

Round 25 :

inc in next st, 7sc [9]

Round 26 - 30 :

sc in all 9 sts - 5 rounds

Round 31 :

inc in next st, 8sc [10]

Round 32 - 36 :

sc in all 10 sts - 5 rounds

Round 37 :

inc in next st, 9sc [11]

Round 38 - 42 :

sc in all 11 sts - 5 rounds

Round 43 :

inc in next st, 10sc [12]

Round 44 - 55 :

sc in all 12 sts - 12 rounds

Info :

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing.

β€” Grippy Leaves :

Info :

Make 2 in green.

Round 1 :

start 6sc in a magic ring [6]

Round 2 :

sc in all 6 sts [6]

Round 3 :

(1sc, 3sc in next st, 1sc) repeat 2 times [10]

Round 4 :

sc in all 10 sts [10]

Round 5 :

(2sc, 3sc in next st, 2sc) repeat 2 times [14]

Round 6 :

sc in all 14 sts [14]

Round 7 :

(3sc, 3sc in next st, 3sc) repeat 2 times [18]

Round 8 :

sc in all 18 sts [18]

Round 9 :

(4sc, 3sc in next st, 4sc) repeat 2 times [22]

Round 10 :

sc in all 22 sts [22]

Round 11 :

(5sc, 3sc in next st, 5sc) repeat 2 times [26]

Round 12 :

sc in all 26 sts [26]

Round 13 :

(6sc, 3sc in next st, 6sc) repeat 2 times [30]

Round 14 :

sc in all 30 sts [30]

Round 15 :

(7sc, 3sc in next st, 7sc) repeat 2 times [34]

Round 16 :

sc in all 34 sts [34]

Round 17 :

(8sc, inc in next st, 8sc) repeat 2 times [36]

Round 18 - 20 :

sc in all 36 sts - 3 rounds

Round 21 :

(inv dec, 4sc) repeat 6 times [30]

Round 22 :

(3sc, inv dec) repeat 6 times [24]

Round 23 :

(inv dec, 2sc) repeat 6 times [18]

Round 24 :

(1sc, inv dec) repeat 6 times [12]

Round 25 :

sc in all 12 sts [12]

Round 26 :

inv dec, 10sc [11]

Round 27 :

inv dec, 9sc [10]

Round 28 - 32 :

sc in all 10 sts - 5 rounds

Round 33 :

inc in next st, 9sc [11]

Round 34 - 38 :

sc in all 11 sts - 5 rounds

Round 39 :

inc in next st, 10sc [12]

Round 40 :

sc in all 12 sts [12]

Info :

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing. Press leaves flat. Add wire or pipe cleaners to the leaves and vines, doubling them up for strength.

β€” Protective Spikes :

Info :

Make as many as you fancy in purple yarn.

Instruction :

Ch4, start 2nd ch from hook. Row 1: 1slst, 1sc, 1hdc [3]

Info :

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing.

β€” Wispy Hair :

Info :

Make as many as you fancy in purple yarn.

Instruction :

Row 1: Ch25 [25]

Info :

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing. Wrap the wispy hair around a thick straw or a knitting needle, cover in PVA glue or starch and leave to dry overnight. When completely dry take the hair off the straw and trim one of the tail ends.

β€” Stingy Tongue :

Info :

Make 1 in purple yarn.

Instruction :

Ch26, start 2nd ch from hook, for neater edges work in third loop/back hump of the chains.

Row 1 :

1slst in next ch, 2sc, 2hdc, ch6, start 2nd ch from hook, slst in next ch, 2sc, 2hdc, now carry on along the main chain, 21dc [21+forked tip]

Info :

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing.

β€” Assembly :

Info :

First we will add stuffing to the plant pot. To keep the base flat it helps to add in a circle of felt or thick card into the base before adding the stuffing.

Info :

Clarence is quite top-heavy, but sewing the vines to the back of the pot is enough to counter-balance the head. You could also add a balloon weight or weighted beads for extra stability.

Step 1 :

Cut a circle of felt, foam or card to fit the base of the pot.

Step 2 :

Place into the pot and then add in plenty of toy stuffing.

Step 3 :

Sew the Grippy Leaves to the sides of the body, either side of the bend - push the ends of the pipe cleaners into the body before sewing.

Step 4 :

Next secure the Twirly Vines to the soil behind the body, pushing the ends of the pipe cleaners into the soil.

Step 5 :

Spread the vines evenly around the back of the plant, you can twist together the leftover parts of the pipe cleaners inside the pot.

Step 6 :

Sew down each vine, then curl up the ends. Add stuffing to the body, leaving some space on the top for the head.

Step 7 :

Place the head into the neck opening, choosing the direction you would like it to look in. With a tail of lilac yarn sew the head into the neck, first going through each stitch of the back seam and the 3 back petals.

Step 8 :

Then go around the lower half of the head, stitching where the chin sits on the petals. Turn up the corners of the mouth into a cheeky smile. Sew the Protective Spikes randomly over the body - add as many as you like!

Step 9 :

Embroider spots with purple yarn on top of the head and embroider veins onto the leaves, going through both layers and doubling the thread for a bold line.

Step 10 :

Open the mouth again and sew the tongue to the inside of the mouth, letting it flop to the side. Next sew the wispy hair to the top of the head between the spots and arrange as you like. To help the back petals stand up catch each one with a tail of green yarn, securing it to the head.

Assembly Instructions

  • Cut a circle of felt, foam or card to fit the base of the pot and insert it into the pot before stuffing to keep the base flat.
  • Place the stem and soil into the pot with stuffing, then sew the twirly vines into the soil behind the body, pushing the pipe cleaner ends into the pot for stability.
  • Sew the Grippy Leaves to the sides of the body either side of the stem bend, pushing the pipe cleaner ends into the body before finishing the seam.
  • Attach the head into the neck opening using a tail of lilac yarn, sewing first through the back seam and three back petals then around the lower half to secure the chin onto the petals.
  • Insert a ring of wire or double pipe cleaners into the lip tube before closing it to keep the lips poseable and strong.
  • Sew the protective spikes and embroider spots and leaf veins with purple yarn; add wispy hair glued and shaped on a straw for curly details.
  • Spread and arrange vines evenly and curl the ends; twist and tuck leftover pipe cleaner ends inside the pot for a neat finish.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use pipe cleaners or wire inside the lips and vines for poseability and double them for extra strength.
  • πŸ’‘Insert a strip of thick felt or foam stabiliser into the lip of the pot before folding to keep the brim rigid.
  • πŸ’‘Work with consistent tension and stuff gradually to avoid lumps; keep the roof of the mouth flat while stuffing.

This playful Clarence pattern makes a quirky, poseable amigurumi plant full of personality. It combines simple amigurumi techniques with clever internal supports for lasting shape and fun posing. Perfect for gifting or brightening your shelf with handmade mischief. 🧢🌿

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 27cm (10 1/2 in) tall when made in DK weight cotton with a 3mm hook.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but this will affect the final size and the hook you need; switch to an appropriate hook and adjust stuffing and pipe cleaner lengths accordingly.

Do I need any special tools for the poseable vines?

You will need long pipe cleaners or strong wire to insert into the vines and lips; doubling pipe cleaners is recommended for extra strength.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though time may vary based on experience level and how much time you spend on assembly and finishing details.